Im glad sal is showing the world how to tile. Alot of customers shit on contractors for not going fast or because its too expensive. Materials matter. Time matters. Tools matter. Tile guys need to plan ahead. Measure. Check the condition of the floor. Do repairs. Shucks , even do some framing and electrical work for a tile guy to get it done right the first time. You dont know what i have seen in showers and floors. We deal with rotten wood. Bad construction. Mold. Old plumbing and most of the time a cheap job because the customer does not want to pay. Heres my message for customers. FOR TILE. Warranty pays in the long run. If you want your tile for a short time... Theres cheap alternatives but it STILL COST MONEY. Overall for tile to stay impeccable for 20+ years...its not done on only tile and thinset. Theres more than just a tile guy. Theres framing. Pest control(termite. Wood ant. Etc). Plumbing. Sanitation. Moisture control/waterproofing. And the list goes on. Next time you want to save a buck for tile. remember: you might end up paying more.
Can install travertine on a manufactured home? Subfloor+ ditra+ travertine? Travertine Is to heavy for a manufactured home or modular home? Ditra is ok on subfloor? Or have to install one more layer of plywood? If need layer of plywood...? Do i need ditra after that?
Natural stone requires a much stronger floor than ceramic or porcelain tile. The subfloor must meet L/720 deflection and a second layer of plywood is required, then the uncoupling membrane.
@@SalDiBlasi 😅 sounds crazy but we need sone help again. 😅 my friend have a one layer of plywood! They have already the ditra. After installing the second layer of plywood DO WE NEED THE DITRA OR JUST CAN INSTALL OVER THE PLYWOOD? Also they have problems with the moister from the bottom crawlspace ... Do you think they can sandwich the underlayment 6mil plastic moister barrier? Subfloor + 6 mil plastic + plywood + travertine or ditra + travertine. First option is to do the 6mil under the crawlspace but just looking a cheating option.. 😅 If we install the second layer of plywood what direction we need to lay the plywood? Same as the first layer?
Great job and video. I am planning to install porcelain tiles on my bathroom floor. I took out the old tiles including the 5/8" plywood underlayment. The subfloor is made up of 1x8 floor boards so they are 3/4" thick. I plan to use Ditra as the joists are 16" OC. The floor boards have gaps from 1/4" to as much as a 1/2". A few spots are even larger than that. I was planning on installing 5/8" plywood sheeting (4-ply). Is this the right plywood type and thickness to go under the Ditra? Thanks.
All cementious products are water wicking. The drink in ambient moisture. Placing thin set directly upon plywood will rot the plywood eventually. Doing that in a wet environment is asking for trouble. Old school method would be to put done backer board and then place thinset and tile. Using red guard or laticrete on the plywood first is even better. This schluter product isn’t needed or good in my and many other installers opinions.
I think the purpose of the uncoupling membrane is to allow the floor the plywood to expand and contract the tile won't do that as much. Cell has another video about a guy named Steve with a million dollar house who had tile laid and it was a poor job I believe in their sal explains about expansion and contraction.
A contractor I know actually uses a paint roller to lay Ditra down. Saves your back, knees and time. Wets it with a spray bottle and then pours the thinset on the floor and rolls it out, then tapers the seams using the Ditra trowel
Tell that contractor that he is risking the failure of every floor he ever installed that way. Thinset mortar has a maximum water ratio that can be used before the mortar is rendered useless and will not have a strong bond. The size of the notched trowel is important to insure proper coverage and bond coat thickness. He will probably tell you he has never had a problem, don't believe it.
Hello, I have a question: I have a finished timber wood floor that’s half an inch thick. The floor is in good condition. Can I install Ditra on top, I would like to put porcelain tiles on top. I also found that under the wood floor there is no plywood, instead the subfloor is made of 3/4in by 6in wooden planks. If I need to remove the finished floor what thickness plywood should I use? The porcelain tiles i will install are 2 by 4 feet and thickness is 3/8 of an in. Which ditra thickness should I use? I really appreciate your videos and sorry for bothering with all these questions, I hope you can answer.
Not sure what you mean by Finished timber wood floor, but probably has to be removed. The subfloor wood planks are not a problem, install 1/2" Plywood according to subfloor installation methods for tile page 17 www.contractorsdirect.com/PDF/ditra-installation-handbook.pdf nd use method D-SP-TS-18 on page 7. Be sure that your floor meets deflection requirements for ceramic tile.
@@SalDiBlasi Dear Sal, Thank you so for much for the response. I have one final question: can I use the modified thin-set Exceeds ANSI 118 Versabond LFT underneath and on top of Ditra in order to install my porcelain 2 by 4 feet. I really appreciate your help.
@@maysamoreno4874 I have never been a fan of Custom Products, but according to them you can use it for uncoupling membranes. www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-119.pdf
@@SalDiBlasi Dear Sal, I have another question to ask you. After some thought, I wanted to ask you if the mortar layout I created will work for my ditra. I took your advice and installed 1/2 inch plywood. I am going to use the Large Format Floor and Wall Tile Mortar from Mapei under my ditra and over my ditra. Then I will install my 2x4 feet porcelain tiles. I wanted to ask you if this is the correct mortar to use under and over my ditra. If it is, how long do I have to wait until I can apply the grouting? If this is not a product you recommend, I was going to go with UltraFlex from Mapei to go under the Ditra, and Kerabond T or the uncoupling membrane mortar from Mapei to go OVER the ditra. Please I beg you help me with this. I hope you can help me from your experience. Thank you so much Sal!
Thanks for another great video Sal! One question, when the Ditra is all laid down, should you wait a day to lay porcelain tile or can you just start right in on tiling? Trying to do this the right way and in no hurry. I'm using the Schluter All-set thinset for both the Ditra and tile on top of a plywood subfloor that's been cleaned up.
I would have loved to see the Ditra overlapping by at least 150mm on all the walls and most importantly it needs to go also under the bathtub!!!! ... it defeats the purpose otherwise... even the bathtub can leak!
Hey Sal, do you have any videos on how to install exterior terra-cotta tile on a stair landing? I tried looking myself, but I didn’t come across any that I viewed.
I don't see you using kirty band Between the different pieces. When would kirty band be necessary I'm guessing between a tub andThe schluter. Anywhere else
This man is an amazing excellent professional. Think what you want but it is a fact i have witnessed many times that hardworkers with high work ethics on difficult work like this are never, ever originated from the dark continent where live gorillas and hyenas (yeah cannot even name them as we live under a tyrannical clique that denies reality).
Sal i leveled my plywood substrate with self leveling concrete and I now I am ready for Ditra what product do you recommend for the thin set? I will be installing penny tile. Thank you.
Hi Sal, Recently came across your videos and very informative and detailed. We will be installing tile on a second floor that's about 1200 sqft. Is Ditra suppose to be more durable and long lasting than backerboard? Can this be installed all throughout the home including kitchen and restrooms? Does Ditra also help with soundproofing the floors? Thank you!
Let me just say that Ditra is much better than Backer board, if you want sound control, then use Ditra TB now called Duo, however works only on a concrete floor, wood subfloors will not see any real benefit.
Hi Sal I used Ditra in a large kitchen. The tiler got us to lay it and fill the dovetails the day before he arrived. He then tiled onto our dry adhesive with a notched trowel bed. A year on one or two of the tiles are sounding hollow which I assume this means the bond has gone. I have checked Schluter's video and they don't show it being fillled before tiling. What do you think? I won't be calling him up to argue but I need to get it right next time.
+Skill Builder Filling the day before is not a problem, however having you install the ditra for him may not have been a good move. Although it is straight forward, it needs to be done properly and installed with the correct type of thinset and trowel.
+Sal DiBlasi Thanks for the reply. He was tied up on another job so we had to move it along. I am fairly sure we did it right because he showed us exactly what to do and we pushed it down with a wood float The bond appears to be lost between the tile and the Ditra. No matter it is just slightly annoying. Good to see you doing it right and we will take care on the next job to use the polymer modified.
Would you recommend doing the longest part of the room which would be the length of the smallest part which would be the width in my case. Do it matter what the over lap is from the edge of the plywood?
So I had a buddy tell my wife he was going to do our kitchen floor tile job. He proceeded to demand that I remove all appliances and expose subfloor surface. Also that I needed to buy tiles and bags of mortar, and a roll of Ditra . So I did everything he said and was told to then mortar plywood floor and put Ditra on top before he would come lay tile. I read instructions and had to replace plywood because of surface glue was making a good bond impossible also needed to thicker plywood . As I finished securing new plywood to subfloor he shows up and begins cutting Ditra to begin mortaring to floor. I was his helper and he acted as if he knew what he was doing ? Well After he finished tile job last night I was thinking about how when he was applying mortar for tiles the Ditra surface didn’t have bright orange waffle shiny side surface underneath. It was a flat orange cloth looking side showing ( aka upside down ) . So my question is this ? Does this matter enough that I should demo his work now and save myself the time of having to live with a job so poorly done now ? Or it will be fine and last long enough that living with his shoddy job might be worth the five years before replacing it later ? Thanks for input
Sal your one of two people I follow for tile work who actually know what your doing tile coach is the other. Thank you for all you hard work on these videos
The Ditra XL DOES NOT cut that easy. Had to use Dremel to cut it cleanly. You need a clearance to wall of 1/4” per Schluter requirements. Schluter offer their Schluter Set All that is a modified thinset that can be use under and on top. Very Expensive!
Never had a problem cutting Ditra, have to have a sharp blade. Correct, always leave room for movement, thinset is the glue that holds everything together, so you never want to skimp on that.
I trust Sal on anything he says however, I am not sure he understood what you were doing. I believe hardy backer is a great substrate for Ditra. And I am thinking that unmodified would be the product. Just guessing, anyone know for sure reading this?
Why sal?do you always dampen the wooden subfloor with water instead of putting a primer on it that makes shure that the thinset cures nicely.in belgium wooden subfloors are not so common.mostly subfloors are screed.we do primer a lot on plaster,gyproc,fluid screed,...
The dry set mortar, which hs to conform to ANSI A118.11 or better works by adhering and penetrating into the pores of the plywood. If you seal those pores then you impede the ability of the mortar to do its job. Always dampen the plywood to remove residual dust and to give the plywood a "Drink" so the wood does not draw the moisture out of the mortar and allows it to cure properly. Should do the same to any prose surface anyway, for the same reason, although the type of thinset mortar may be different.
Hi Sal , Thank you for share this great video. However I am really frustrated and despaired for this product recently . The reason why is " I Cant effort ALL SET Mortar , it is so expensive just for that small bag. Other than that, I Could not find any of other brand who makes Mid -Bed UNMODIFIED THINSET for install size of 18"x36" larger format tile. I mean , we use to use ANSI 118.15 T OR FOR Install that size of the tile . But it is polymer modified . If I used it , it will be out of Schulter warranty . NEED help ! Sal, would you recommend any sag-resistant UNMODIFIED Mortar .?? Thank you
To keep the warranty, you can use any brand Premium Unmodified dry set mortar A118.1. Schluter Set, Bostik Ditraset, laticrete 317 or 272, Tec uncoupling membrane mortar, Mapei Kerabond. I pretty much always use unmodified mortar to set my tiles on Schluter products, usually the "Set"
if I have a hall that's 3x12 and I have 2 pieces of schluter that are 3x6,can I have a seem on the 3 ft end ? Does it matter if you have a seam at the end (or beginning) of roll(3ft end)if so,do I need to butt it up tight or leave 1/4 gap
I have air pockets under the Ditra on wooden floor, I have leveled the subfloor but not perfect. Now I might have to cut the batch of sections out, that is suck!
@@torkdork69 Exactly! How the heck did that happen? While mixing the thinset? Too dry a thinset when applying Ditra? Not moisten plywood before thinset? Not troweled correctly? Did not put enough pressure on Ditra with wooden trowel? Did I forget anything? I would like to know the same as I am installing soon.
@@61spindrift most likely the latter of the questions and a mix of the floor having a dip in it. Proper trowel and mix with good added pressure to collapse 90% of ridged should suffice for decades.
Improper troweling. With thinset or mortar for tile you want the grooves to all be going the same direction, no swirling. That way as you bed in the air has a place to go and not be trapped.
@@61spindrift at 11:10 you can see the swirling in the thin set, that is ok for glue, but not bedding tile. You can kind of get away with it with small format tile, but never with large. Straight lines in tile.
So what happens should they get water damage and need to remove the existing tile? Will this membrane come up willingly or will you destroy the sub-floor in the process of removing it?
Are you expecting water damage? If so the system can easily be made watertight to eliminate that problem. Tile is a permanent finish, if you worry about removal, then use something else. You don't compromise the installation to make it easier to remove. Plenty of tools and methods to deal with rip outs when it is time.
Something doesn't make sense to me about the Ditra. if its supposed to create a "floating" floor to where the subfloor can move because the tile isn't bonded to it but its locked into the membrane, then when you bond the membrane to the subfloor its not a floating system anymore. if the Ditra is bonded to the sublfloor and the subfloor moves, then the tile that is locked into the membrane is also going to move with it..or am I not thinking correctly?
It is not a floating floor, ditra is an uncoupling membrane, , the underside of the Ditra is bonded to the floor the tile is mechanically locked to the Ditra, the membrane can move and deform without transferring the movement to the tile.
Rob Ryan If you fill the waffles and let it dry you can use modified if you like, but if you do not let it dry and tile as you go it must be unmodified. You can also fill with unmodified, do not use modified to set the tile. So to avoid buying two kinds of thinset just stick to the unmodified.
@@SalDiBlasi I meant when doing the shower curb, I’ve seen where they put a kerdi band between the shower curb bottom and the ditra on the bathroom floor. Is this step necessary or can I install ditra later after the shower is done and tiled?
@@ceeIoc You can if you want, but it is a good idea to do that although not required. You could just leave the tile under the crb until after you tile the floor, that is what I do.
Depends on the type of ditra, " For DITRA use a 1/4" x 3/16" (6 mm x 5 mm) V-notched trowel, 5/16" x 5/16" (8 mm x 8 mm) V-notched trowel, or the DITRA trowel which features a 11/64" x 11/64" (4.5 mm x 4.5 mm) square-notched design. For DITRA-XL use a 1/4" x 1/4" (6 mm x 6 mm) square-notched trowel or the DITRA-XL trowel, which features a 1/4" x 1/4" (6 mm x 6 mm) square-notched design." Page 18 of the ditra handbook sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h66/h6e/8917114126366/DITRA%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf
Hello Sal. You're videos are extremely helpful. I'm preparing to install Schluter Ditra on OSB but I do not know what is meant by "tightly butted seams must be addressed". Would you please explain.
It is common practice for the carpenters to butt the seams of the OSB tight together, to slam them in tight so there is no gap. They are supposed to engage the tongue and groove without snugging them up. Advantech actually has it written on the edge of the sheets, to leave an 1/8" gap.
Excellent video. I'm getting ready to put down 120 sq. ft. of porcelain floor tile over a plywood sub-floor in my kitchen. Thanks for all the good advice.
Sal, I am currently tiling a small restroom which the floor is concrete slab. Any benefit of using Schluter Ditra installed over concrete slab? Thanks!
My old tile in hallway and powder room was laid over 1/2 inch ply underlay over 5/8 ply subfloor, (2x8 joists 12' long, 16 O.C.) it was ok for 20 years, no cracks or bounce. In one area which will be done with hardwood I removed the tile & underlay and now notice the floor is weaker. So the underlay definitely made a difference. I'm debating on whether or not I even need the ditra, and if I use it, should I beef up the subfloor before using it. I am debating removing the underlay to replace it with something else vs just removing the mortar and re-tiling on the underlay that is existing. Either way its pretty labor intensive. also, if I need to re-tile in another twenty years, what is done about the ditra that is installed and stuck to the subfloor or underlay. Thanks for your videos.
Your floor structure does not meet L/360, so the tile should have never been installed on that floor in the first place. So you might say that the floor lasted 20 years, no problem. If the floor does not meet deflection requirements, that does not mean it will fail for sure, however id does increase the risk significantly the weaker the floor. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-74BDTI67S1M.html Not following minimum standards, TCNA and manufacturers recommendations does not guarantee failure, but following them does ensure success.
@@SalDiBlasi Apparently I was wrong about these, they are 12 O.C. and 10 foot span, I think that would make a significant difference. Either way, I don't want to do it twice so ill be beefing up the floor with something and then the ditra.
I’ve been watching a lot of your videos lately, getting into a small bathroom tile job. I just have one question for you. My subfloor is concrete, I removed the tile with a hammer and cleared all the existing thinset. There is a really thin, pretty much paper thin black layer that’s over my concrete subfloor. Do I need to get that off? If not, what type of thinset do I use to set the Ditra on top of the concrete or technically the black paper thin thing over the concrete? And what size trowel do you use to install ditra to concrete subfloor? I’ll be using 12x24 porcelain tiles if that helps.
In general concrete needs to be bare and the pores need to be open for thinset mortar to be able to adhere to it, so yes, you probably need to mechanically remove the black stuff to open the pores and eliminate the bond inhibitor. That being said, if the black stuff is very old, it could be CutBack, and there are thinsets that can be used to set your tile to it. Here is an article that will clarify your choices. www.tcnatile.com/faqs/29-cutback-residue.html
Question Sal, I used a prefab Tile EZ shower pan with no threshold that was 1" thick. I had to build up the rest of the floor with cement board to keep the no threshold look. Would there be any benefit to using this product on top of the cement board or would that be over kill in your opinion? Thanks in advance for your answer.
i want to use this on plywood that i already used self leveling to level the entire washroom floor {custom LevelQuik} so what should i use Modify or un modify thanks
@@SalDiBlasi Sal i am confused now in Schluter site said unmodified on self leveling since i am installing Ditra on self leveling under the self leveling is plywood
I love your videos. I've just completely gutted my 13x12 master bathroom. I've ripped up the 1/2" plywood underlayment down to the 5/8" plywood sub floor. I was planning on adding new 1/2" plywood underlayment back down once all the plumbing was moved. Should I just go over the subfloor with the Ditra Heat or add the underlayment? Ty
In most cases you can go over the sub floor if it is all tongue and grove or blocked, if you are not installing a natural stone tile and if it meets L/360.
Thank you Sal. For years I've used Blanke Permat in place of "another" sheet of 3/4" plywood wasn't possible. I was told that Permat is the only uncoupling membrane that actually replaces wood substrate for structural integrity. It isn't waterproof but perfect when height transitions are important. Tile need one & 1/8" of "structural" substrate (Arch. Standards) If you only have 3/4" do you feel confident using Ditra over that?
If the joist structure is correct, the subfloor is correct, without a doubt, bullet proof. I have used Ditra for thousands upon thousands of feet of tile for more than a decade, never one cracked tile, never a problem. Completely confident. If you are talking about natural stone where the deflection needs to be half that of a ceramic tile, then you need a second layer of plywood to meet the L/720. Permat says that you can just go over a single layer of plywood with it and install your stone, do you feel comfortable doing that? I know the answer. The 1 and 1/8 you are referring to is if you are going to use plywood as your underlayment for your ceramic tile, then yes you need that thickness. Just check your TCNA handbook. Just in case you need some help looking for them, 2017 TCNA Handbook page 172 Method F148-17 for uncoupling membrane max joist spacing 19.2", 2017 TCNA Handbook, page 158 Method F150-17 for plywood underlayment max joist spacing 16". However I could not find Permat in the Handbook, I guess it is not approved by the TCNA. Don't get me wrong, I know it is a great product and works as you described, just wanted you do be sure that I am relying on accepted standards for the things I do.
Can you use ardex x77 for under the ditra? And also over ditra or is ardex fb 9L better for over? Went to the tile shop and the owner got me al confused
You can use it under ditra to install over plywood, It conforms to ANSI A118.11 so it will stick to plywood. This Will also maintain your Schluter warranty. If you use it to install the tile on the ditra, it will work just fine, not going into the details on how it works, however you will void your Schluter warranty as Schluter requires the use of an unmodified thinset to install the tile if a brand of mortar other than their own is used, X77 is modified. In this case Ardex will pick up the warranty for you, so no problem there if you don't care about losing the schluter warranty. I would also advise against ever asking a sales person for instructions on how to install anything.
Sal DiBlasi thank you! I was a little worried cause i used the x77 under the ditra i can still buy unmodified mortar cause i dit not tile it yet. Thank you again for answering my question so fast 🙂
You must use modified thinset on the plywood, and you can use it on the concrete. You can't however use unmodified to install the dita on plywpod. Then use unmodified to set the tile on the ditra.
Sal - I just pulled up old tile in my bathroom that was laid over a cement board underlayment over OSB. I use a rotary hammer and chisel to pull it all up but there is still a thin smooth layer of thin set over the OSB in most places. I found that chiseling down to the OSB was tearing up the board. Can I lay Ditra over old thin set? Thanks for your videos.
You have few options, most common are to grind it down with a cup grinder, which is pretty quick, or if it is really stuck and you are sure it will not be a bond inhibitor, clean it up and go over it with new mortar as you set your ditra.
@@SalDiBlasi So what did you do and is it holding up a year later? I would have thought you could just go over with thinset but definitely use a boding agent or primer first.
Hi Sal, great vids , I really learn a lot. I am gutting the kitchen, installing 3/4 in plywood to sub floor, should I install one layer of plywood or two, as long as I don’t over extend height to include tile?
You need to determine the floor deflection, Needs to be L/360 or better for porcelain tile, and no need for the second layer of plywood. On the other hand, for natural stone, you need L/720 and also the second layer of plywood.
Thank you very much for this video! We are trying to install Ditra in our bathroom and i would greatly appreciate your advice on plywood underlayment. We have 3/4 plywood over 16 oc trusses and 1/4 underlayment on top of it. Can we install ditra on top of this underlayment (it is hardwood plywood)? Thank you!
Minimum thickness of plywood in any tile assembly is 3/8, the 1/4" has no structural value and will buckle when you apply the thinset and starts to dry and cure.
Hello Sal. I've installed some ditra over concrete and after the fact noticed a low spot. Can I put some sort of leveling compound on top of the ditra before placing tile down? Thanks
@@SalDiBlasi oh, ok, thanks. i thought it had to do with the ability of the mortar to dry. but it must be whether any movement of the base is possible.
Hi sal great videos! I'm installing wood plank tile 36" or 48" over a hydronic radiant heated panel floor which is aluminum, would you suggest adding ditra (what adhesive?) or use CBU? Thanks!
+Denise U CBU might be a pfoblem becsuse you need to penetreta into the floor you are covering, ditra would be a better choice, but i would contact Schluter tec support to get their recommendations.
Hi Sal ! Can you help me to find the right mortar please, I live in Canada and I dont know witch one to choose. We have Home Depot, Rona (it's like Lowes). My job is: I do have one layer of 5/8 plywood glue and screw, I will install 24'' X 48'' large format tile. I will use Ditra (not heating). So I'm looking for a brench of mortar for underneet the Ditra and over the Ditra after. Good video !
Not sure if the standards for mortar are the same in Canada, to install the ditra to the plywood look for a mortar that meets or exceeds ANSI A118.11 This would include thinsets like Mapei Ultraflex 2, Laticrete 235 gold, ardex x5, or Schluter AllSet. To install the tile on the ditra, Schluter AllSet, (yes modified mortar) Schluter says to use an unmodified mortar if you do not use their brand of mortar, The standard is A118.1 This would include Mapei Kerabond, Laticrete 317 or 272, Tec uncoupling membrane Mortar, However that is not to say a modified mortar will not work, but it will not preserve the warranty if you decide to use a modified mortar to set your tile on ditra. There have been some developments with thinset in the past few years that has made solved the problem of using modified mortar on ditra, but you have to know which modified mortar can be used.
There is a store who sale Mapei Keraflex plus, the men told me I can use that for plywood and Ditra, and even on top of the Ditra with large tile 2' X 4'. What do you think about it ? Is it good ? Its 29.99$ a bag. Thanks again Sal.
Sal Diblasi: Hi Sal, I need your comment ont that: There is my floor layout: Joist 16'-8'' and 17' at 16'' center with 5/8 plywood tong and groove glue and screew. For the deflexion of the joist the place I bought the joist said L648, L699,L745. I need to tell you than I will have an island of 73'' X 84'' with granit counter top on top of my 24'' X 48'' tile. Do you think my joist are enought strong for not cracking my tile ? Deflexion is ok for the lenght of the joist? Would you add a second layer of plywood on top of my 5/8, maybee 1/2 or an other 5/8 plywood? Thanks for helping me, by the way you are a good teacher !
@@stevebeaulieu2617 For the deflection plug your numbers in here www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl you did not specify the unsupported span. As far as the thinset goes it is Exceeds ANSI A118.4HTE and A118.11 requirements and is suitable for plywood, Can you install your tile on Ditra with it, sure, but you will void the schluter warranty, to maintain the warranty you can use Schluter AllSet if you want modified mortar, or any brand of unmodified mortar.
As always great content. Do not know what I enjoy most: the art of great prep work - or how skilled you are at using those knee pads. Lol. Mr DiBlasi I hope you never miss place them -breaking in a new pair must be a skill in itself. Your videos are a treasure for educating and promoting pride in a job well done. 👍
It is how much the floor can bend under the tile before there is a problem. it can be calculated with an app by checking your joist structure. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-74BDTI67S1M.html
look at the waves in the floor, hollow doesnt lay flat, grout cracks. plus it cost more and is much work as pulling concete.I am old school but I open to new ideas but this does not pass my inspection.pulled up 5 of these floors already. good luck
+Donald Balowski If you don't want to use it, then don't, if you don't want to believe the effectivenes of an uncoupling membrane , then don't, if you don't want to acknowledge that it is much quicker to install, and lighter than any mud job or cement board, that is fine. You have pulled up 5 badly installed jobs done with Ditra, like I said anything installed incorrectly is likely to fail. Stay in the past, be left behind while the industry continues to advance. There will always be a place for mud, but it has been supplanted by more efficiant and reliable methods, I have been installing tile for 30 years. I know a quality product when i see one.
I have watched your install i can pul a concrte floor a just as fast as that application been doing it for 35 years. I do not live in the past I will use durock done properly on a level floor it works great. That Ditra is junk, makes no sense , cost more, takes longer. i pull and set in same day grout and it will last a lifetime, level , flat and I am sorry you are offended but it is true. not a hater good luck in you ventures wish you well
Donald Balowski Not at all offended, just having a discussion, you are entitled to your opinion as am i. Even though I no longer do it, i have installed plenty of mud floors, and I know exactly what both types of installs take. I will take Ditra any day over Mud, my body thanks me every day. I actually have a suggestion for you, I am a member of a closed Facebook group of over 3000 tile industry related professionals including installers, reps etc, would you like to be a part of it. You will be able to interact and share your opinion and thoughts and see what others think and do, all in a civil and friendly manner. Let me know.
Your videos have caused my dad & I both to start planning our first bathroom tile projects. Both with their own challenges. He's a good bit more educated than myself as of now but with the amount of information you have avalable, there is no question that we will both succeed. Thanks!
So, Polymer Modified Ditra -> Plywood Floor shortform (PMPF), Polymer Unmodified Ditra -> Concrete Floor (PUCF) then Polymer Unmodified ontop of Ditra. This applies to outdoor applications as well?
+Roger Diotte polymer modified to install on plywood, unmodified or modified to install o concrete. Unmodified to install the tile on ditra, unless you are using Schluters own thinset, then you can choose to folow the above or use modified for everything
Sal DiBlasi I'm a better person in the world with you Sal... I did the right thing then and it's holding up freaking awesome.. Laid Porcelain exterior entranceway and it's been through a week of -13 Fahrenheit..
