SeaDoo Fish Pro Tips - Add/Replace Transducer Fluid 

You bet.. I found a little trick for topping off. I recently had to go thru the process of a refill, and instead of taking the top off completely and adding fluis to the well, after pulling back on of the ears a bit to release it from one side of the top , while holding the ear back, I inserted a stubby flathead screwdriver tip between the housing and the top, and gave a little twist to break the seal. The still holding the ear back a bit. I "injected" the fluid and the pressure raised the top just enough so that the fluid flowed into the housing, driving out any air and overflowed the top. When I saw that I pressed down on the top and clicked it into place. You look like a 3 armed paperhanger getting your hands all positioned to do this but it worked out for me. BTW - On those ears, I know folks use zip-ties to keep them secures. I found that a Charlie Haywood clothes pin works, AND that a runner door stopper wedge works great too! ALSO - Look into replacing any Yellow Seal with the improved RED one.

you bet happy to have helped.. Sad to say, but many times it seems to be hit or miss at the dealers on some of the things that need to be done.

You can but you should crack the top to let air escape as it is filling the body and fill till it overflows out the body to purge any trapped air in the housing body.

You have to pull back on those ears that stick up on either side of the transducer and then get your fingernail underneath the top of the lid to break the seal. Sometime the seal is stuck pretty good

Yup.. Air in transducer fluid well C heck out the other videos as to what I eventually did. Tookk several installments of videos to get it lined out. .

It kind of gets adhered to the housing. Small screwdriver a one side to break the seal.

It can. Keep in mind though, that if you are in a cold area, and it freezes, it will break the housing and likely also damage the transducer nodule from the expansion of the water as it turns to ice and presses against the module. In addition, my thoughts are that the water will evaporate off quicker than the antifreeze. Interestingly, I have heard of people putting in a gel, like used for ultrasounds, or even mineral oil in there. IMO, this is a poor design by Garmin. They missed it on the execution. That said, when I got these issues fixed, I found that this depth gauge is astoundedly accurate and helpful as I run the shallows on my trips. I do not fish, but use the ski as a water motorcycle for distance riding, and when I say the shallow, I mean 9 inches to 2 feet at 30-40 mph. Don't try this at home though until you scope out the general underwater profiles in your area. In South Texas, the Laguna Madre has large areas of water where the water gently slopes from 2 foot depth to 6 inches, over an off shoreline distance of maybe 1/10 to 1/4 mile. That is what makes it so great for the fishing, and also make is great so as to run in smoother, yet shallower, waters. and YES I have run aground on the "where did that come from" sand bars a few times!!!!

it is the RV and Marine type to use, because in the US at least ,that kind is not toxic to the fish like the regular car antifreeze is.

@billjenkins1535 Could use the guard choice one? It's for storing

Those clips can be kind of stiff and so i hold one back with my thumb and then have to pry the top off the housing and get it loose from the seal and the other clip.. I fill the housing and also the tube too, and then press the transducer down into the fluid filled housing. Fluid overflows the housing but htat way I make sure there are no air gaps. I then fil the rest of the tube with fluid.

Believe it or not the tip of one of those 24" long crowbars - the ones with the big curving screwdriver looking tip. That tip fits perfectly in the slot that is molded into the clip and you press down and back and it moves the read clip off the top. While you are pressing the bar against the clip ( with your shoulder of all things) you reach down with a stubby flat screwdriver and stick it under the lip of the lid, and give it a slight twist or prying motion and the seal can break free.

The tube that comes stock on the ski just Loops up and then you will fix it to one of the components so that the end of the tube is above the transducer fluid level. I have another video that shows how I extend this tube up to the front of the ski and affix it to a reservoir cup used for motorcycle brake fluid so that I can fill this tube directly from taking off the seat instead of having to take off the rear deck to check the fluid level or fill it.