So in the 2024 fishpro the top two screws have the captive screw holders. I lost the top port female in the engine bay. I have tried to find it, but it has not been found yet. Is there an order # to replace them ? I could use a 6 MM nut and washer, but I was wondering if you had any info on where to get them. I have looked all over Amazon and the net for them. Thank you Dave.
Humm you meant the nut that is used at the head end of the cover? This are 6mm nuts and they have a nylon insert to keep them positioned after tightening. These are stainless but I think they use brass which is better if you can get it, because even stainless corrodes in salt water. www.amazon.com/M6-1-0-Nylon-Insert-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0BHQNH3D9?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1
Don't think its necessary to cut a hole . I have lost that same nut and was able to reach and replace it when you lean over and extend your arm .. no problem there ...
Hi Bill , I just received the 24 Sea Doo Fish PT. I ordered the factory bildge pump, which always runs when the accessory mode is on. I also have a 32 AMP bigger battery coming to help with the battery load. I was wondering what do you think of the draw on the batteries while the damn bildge runs? I have only a few min on the ski this season, not yet broken in. Greetings from Montauk LI NY .
These factory bulges do no draw like a trolling motor or the radio when the accessory mode is on. My recollection is that the accessory mode will shut OFF if the battery draws down to 11.xx volts, so as to not over-drain things and leave enough to start the ski.. On that factory "always running" bilge. That noise drives many folks crazy especially it they are fishing. Many remove the factory bilge and replace it with float activated bilge pump wired direct to the battery. In this case of being wired direct, if the float activated bilge is running, it draws juice from the battery as long as the bilge is firing. Because of this, the battery can drain completely. That said, it the bilge is draining the battery because it is firing and discharging water for that long , then you got a bigger issue than a dead battery - you are going to be sinking.
Saw your comments. I just put tsome RTV black gasket maker in the holes to try out. Fresh water only here. I did some tests with a hose and as you mentioned, water accumulates and when I opened my lid, the water drains out of the two front holes. But I didn't notice anything sloshing into my storage. Maybe the speed at which you open it makes a difference. I'll be testing it out too. I suspect I just have to open the lid slowly so it drains out the front at a steady pace. The gasket maker is easy to remove if I'm not happy too with this. Thanks for this idea.
That can be a good thing to try out i figure. As an update, I found that with my holse plugged, the water does accumulate like another user said, and that when opening, the surge of accumulated water inthe waffles toward the front drain holes, which were not filled, is so great that it sloshes still into the storage bin. I have now removed my hold plugs and over-drilled the drain holes, so that when the hood is closed, the water gets out faster while I am using the ski, and then when opening the hood, it will ( hopefully) have drained out better because of the over-drilled holes. I will keep folks posted on the outcome.
Hi Bill. Love your content. Can you pls help me to remove side speakers on my 2022 trophy?. I losen up the side holds and speaker is losen up now but somehow it holds back on the bottom that I can’t pull it out. Thnx
I felt some sarcasm in there towards the end ;) hahahaha Cool modifications. I have a 2023 GTX. Those auto foot well drains is a clever idea. And totally agree it's freaking annoying that those draings empty in the storage bin. I saw your other video on this. I'll be having a closer look for sure. Merci!
You bet.. I found a little trick for topping off. I recently had to go thru the process of a refill, and instead of taking the top off completely and adding fluis to the well, after pulling back on of the ears a bit to release it from one side of the top , while holding the ear back, I inserted a stubby flathead screwdriver tip between the housing and the top, and gave a little twist to break the seal. The still holding the ear back a bit. I "injected" the fluid and the pressure raised the top just enough so that the fluid flowed into the housing, driving out any air and overflowed the top. When I saw that I pressed down on the top and clicked it into place. You look like a 3 armed paperhanger getting your hands all positioned to do this but it worked out for me. BTW - On those ears, I know folks use zip-ties to keep them secures. I found that a Charlie Haywood clothes pin works, AND that a runner door stopper wedge works great too! ALSO - Look into replacing any Yellow Seal with the improved RED one.
Absolutely up front where you can see it. Most people have no clue that a bilge pump will not keep it from sinking...never has been for that purpose on any boat. It's a indicator you have a problem and if you can't see it you won't know until it's too late.
That is a good idea. I have not noticed the issue on my ski. At the same time, I do not ride nearly as often as you do, nor have I been down to the coast yet. Thanks for the info!
I just got some old kind of stiff rubberized material and use it. I bet one of this thin kitchen cutting mats could work great. Just crease it so it folds properly away from the storage locker wen you close the hood.
Bill, love your set up you really done something, hats off to you! Where did you have the front equipment bracket made? I would absolutely love that setup for my front..
Hey Christopher -- In a previous life I had access to tool and die maker machine shops, and so I worked with one of the senior fabricator/machinists to fit this and that and hack and chop, until I got what I wanted. They were the kind of palace that makes space shuttle parts. ( and the cost is about the same). Started the ride to Florida from Corpus Christi, but only made it to Morgan City and broke a tooth. (SMH) had to turn back and lick my wounds. Great ride though.. Looking toward the upcoming ride season to see how things will work out this time. Where you ride out of?
The seal on the wife’s FishPro went bad at less than 30 hours, but I was told there was a “known” issue with the seals at the time we bought her ski. It was obvious it was failing because it created a distinct black line on the hull inside the engine compartment. The new seal came with a rubber cover that will prevent it from slinging the carbon in a 360 pattern inside the hull. Instead the rubber cover restricts the slinging to the bottom of the hull. How did you know it was time to replace your seal…was it taking on water, slinging carbon everywhere, etc? We too ride the Laguna Madre, but mainly the San Bernard River and the Intracoastal between Galveston and Matagorda.
Cool to see that you ride there too.. I know that area well, as it is along my route from Corpus to Galveston. OMG Matagorda Bay in the wind .. Yee Haw. As to your question, mine did not have the revised seal shroud, so it started being a bit dirty in the hull area, and there was a slight haze of moisture inside there too after these Galveston to Matagorda kind of rides. . No standing water, but it was "wet". Have had the same issue as you at 30 hrs when I first bought the ski, and I heard from a tech that there was a bad batch of carbon from manufacturing. The replacement lasted about 100 hrs. This one lasted about 75. One thing, I also noticed was that the SS hat had a bit of discoloration looking like rust around the outer edge. My new seal now has that shroud, and telling when a seal is needing attention is going to be a lot harder. I think that SeaDoo did things that way because of complaints about " My engine bay is dirty". When these seals wear they throw dust as part of their working design but I think that riders want to see a spotless engine bay.. The wear dust has to go somewhere and those users that give photos of clean engine bays ar 500 hrs are either fibbing or riding if very clean waters. On this new seal shroud, I know that there is that little rectangle view-port in the shroud, and presumably that is there so as to "look" directly at the hat/seal edge-line, but that is, imo, going to be hard to gauge. Speaking of gauges, I would like to see a measurement gauge to put onto that interface of the hat and the seal so as to read the wear amount. Just looking at it is going to be kind of sketchy imo. I maybe could have gone fro more hours on my ski, but when you are going to be gone for 10 days on these long trips, and when your little voice speaks to you, I have found it best to listen, if you be catching my drift.
The tube that comes stock on the ski just Loops up and then you will fix it to one of the components so that the end of the tube is above the transducer fluid level. I have another video that shows how I extend this tube up to the front of the ski and affix it to a reservoir cup used for motorcycle brake fluid so that I can fill this tube directly from taking off the seat instead of having to take off the rear deck to check the fluid level or fill it.
Does the transducer come out of the housing pretty easy? Mine seems to be in there pretty tight. There’s no screws in the top. It doesn’t seem to budge when I pull on it. Is there a trick to it?
Did you get the new "red" seal from Garmin or Sea Doo? I tried to buy one from Garmin and they sent me the red o-ring that sits on top of the transducer housing. Do you have a part number?
Thanks for that video. Bill, my 2019 fish pro gps is isn’t showing my depth. I’ve tried resetting and didn’t help. Could be because my transducer is out liquid? I’ll open it and check it. How did you open the top lid? Do you turn it or you you pop it out? Thanks a bunch. Your video has help me in many ways. Dennis fork S.F California.
You have to pull back on those ears that stick up on either side of the transducer and then get your fingernail underneath the top of the lid to break the seal. Sometime the seal is stuck pretty good
Just picked my fish pro up and same problems, thanks for all the tips; out of curiosity have you found a good way to separate the housing from the transducer to let it vent when you are filling up? Take care!
Those clips can be kind of stiff and so i hold one back with my thumb and then have to pry the top off the housing and get it loose from the seal and the other clip.. I fill the housing and also the tube too, and then press the transducer down into the fluid filled housing. Fluid overflows the housing but htat way I make sure there are no air gaps. I then fil the rest of the tube with fluid.
Believe it or not the tip of one of those 24" long crowbars - the ones with the big curving screwdriver looking tip. That tip fits perfectly in the slot that is molded into the clip and you press down and back and it moves the read clip off the top. While you are pressing the bar against the clip ( with your shoulder of all things) you reach down with a stubby flat screwdriver and stick it under the lip of the lid, and give it a slight twist or prying motion and the seal can break free.
Go to a motorcycle shop order a rear brake cyl reservoir for a Honda Goldwing kps-sa.dealerspikeparts.com/oemparts/a/hon/50bd2bd5f870022a6884f2ae/rear-brake-master-cylinder
It can. Keep in mind though, that if you are in a cold area, and it freezes, it will break the housing and likely also damage the transducer nodule from the expansion of the water as it turns to ice and presses against the module. In addition, my thoughts are that the water will evaporate off quicker than the antifreeze. Interestingly, I have heard of people putting in a gel, like used for ultrasounds, or even mineral oil in there. IMO, this is a poor design by Garmin. They missed it on the execution. That said, when I got these issues fixed, I found that this depth gauge is astoundedly accurate and helpful as I run the shallows on my trips. I do not fish, but use the ski as a water motorcycle for distance riding, and when I say the shallow, I mean 9 inches to 2 feet at 30-40 mph. Don't try this at home though until you scope out the general underwater profiles in your area. In South Texas, the Laguna Madre has large areas of water where the water gently slopes from 2 foot depth to 6 inches, over an off shoreline distance of maybe 1/10 to 1/4 mile. That is what makes it so great for the fishing, and also make is great so as to run in smoother, yet shallower, waters. and YES I have run aground on the "where did that come from" sand bars a few times!!!!
