Your wife asks great questions. Your expertise is complemented really well by her asking questions about things that to you are too obvious to you to mention, but are great for us newbies to have clarity on. Great stuff.
It helps if you don’t ride one edge until it’s dead. Heat is the number one killer of anything sharp! I’ll do a few passes then flip so I don’t build up heat. The hooks last a lot longer. Nice video and info. I’ve been wood working for 35 years and I actually learned something. I’ve always used a maple block to hold the scraper square to my diamond stone. I’m going to try bending it to keep it square. Thanks!
Forty years ago a Swiss guy trained in technical school showed me an interesting corollary to bending the blade to achieve 90 degrees on the edge. After flat burnishing, he held the blade in one hand, and with a little help from his hip pushed it against the bench to curve it and then drew the finished edge, bearing down at the usual slight angle into the hollow of the curve. Same for all four edges, of course. I took up the technique, and believe that when the blade straightens out it draws that edge a trifle finer, a trifle sharper. I'll just throw this one in, too. A polished carbide rod of some kind, maybe a broken drill bit (mine is a broken router bit) will draw an edge way better, no tearing, than even a regular hardened steel burnisher. Another: I was scraping a top with my venerable #80 cabinet scraper, and it was time to reburnish. I made to take the blade out, and my shop mate Carl Mesrobian, trained at the North Bennet Street School, said "Wait, don't you know how to do this?" He took my everyday burnisher, with its pointy dagger shape, and reached it into the scraper with the blade still mounted and gave it a few licks to flatten the edge. Then with the very tip he reached behind onto the bevel, and gave that a few licks, too. It was easy, because the tip was trapped by the blade and the scraper. The result: a sharp scraper in seconds, no minutes spent taking the blade out, putting it back in, and dicking around with setting the projection just right! Duh!
After watching your video, I went out to my shop and got my Lee Valley bunisher out to look at it. You can adjust it from 0 degrees to 15 degrees. Thanks for pointing out 15 degrees is a good angle for a scraper. I have the best results getting a burr on my thin Snadvik scraper. Can’t get a burr on my generic thick scraper.
I use two types of scrapers, fine ones, prepped like you just showed. And coarse ones just draw filed. Run the file crossways along the edge a couple of times and get to work.
Repetitive use will heat up the scraper to become very uncomfortable and can even burn you. To avoid this I place a fridge magnet on the back side as a place to put your thumbs
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Thank you for taking the time to show your sharpening process. A card scraper is of little use if it isn't honed correctly. Thank you.
I use a Veritas tool to push over the edge. It’s a wooden block with a slot for the scraper (saves my fingers). The steel that actually bears on the scraper edge can be set at various angles, but the maximum is only 5 degrees.
Thanks! That’s even less than I thought they were. Makes the point all the more I guess that you don’t want to push the edge over very much. It’s funny because when I freehand, 5 degrees does not feel like it’s enough to hold the burnished to and still push a burr over…but that is freehand and not using the handy jig. Thanks again, I’ll have to check those out 👍😎
If you do a meticulous prep job, lots of stoning, etc... You get a superior result, that cuts better and usually lasts longer, but it takes too long. As with sharpening, you can loose the edge if you jump to a new stone too fast. I now either just file the edge with a few strokes, or touch it on my belt grinder, and then I burnish it. You can usually re-burnish a few times, then back to the file or grinder. I probably don't spend even 30 seconds sharpening and burnishing. I start burnishing, square, and then work it to an angle. My favourite brands over the years are the classic Sandvik, and I also like the differently sized Lee Valley ones. You can also make saws, or half blind dovetail plunge cutters out of the LV scrapers.
I just like 4 possible edges because when I'm done sharpening, I know there is a good chance I will have nailed it on one of the 4. Like a multiple choice test.
I was in that camp. It worked great sometimes and no so much others didn't really get why.🤦♂️ I just tried it paying attention to angle and nailed it. Thankyou!!👍😀
Tom - thanks for the forehead slapping moment... :) now I know why. At the point you were doing the actual burnishing, and showing the angle with the board that had the 15 and 30 degrees cut on the ends, it occurred to me how much easier it would be if you had the angle cut lengthwise on the piece of wood you were using as a platform. Then you could rest the burnisher at the proper angle every time.
YESSSSS. I've arrived! Oh my goodness I'm finally getting those fine ribbons of wood shavings like Shirley Temple's hair. Old Mr Bojangles over here is gonna be tap dancing up the stairs tonight!
Push or pull is technique used by individuals. What ever they are comfortable at. Angle is very critical for best results of a great burr. Your info for angle is excellent. As for burnishing tool, it must be harder than the scraper or scraper will cut tool and not create burr Great video and into. Thank you for time.
I've watched many card scraper sharpening videos and do not recall anyone putting so much emphasis, if any, on the angle of the burr. Truth be told I've had miserable experiences trying to get card scrapers to get that wonderful shaving. So thank you for the enlightenment, looking forward to trying this "Secret" approach. But, you'll now have to change the video's title, it is no longer a "Secret".
For anything other than for fine finishing work, when the edge gets dull you can refresh it, rather than going through the whole flattening with file and stone. Simply lay the scraper on the edge of the bench and flatten out the burr using the burnisher. Then place in a vise and re-turn the burr. You can get several 're-sharpenings' before needing to go back to the file. For fine work, there is no substitute for sharpening with the full process. I have a dozen or more scrapers for rough work and three reserved for fine finishing.
So glad it helped out, I’ve seen a lot of people doing everything right except for that and being frustrated with card scrapers. It’s such a great tool when it’s working well for you! 👍😎
You should not press the card forwards. That will leave a groove in the middle, since there will be a tendency to bend it slightly because you press with the thumbs. That is not how to use this tool. You have to drag it towards you. You lay your long fingers on the back and thumbs towards you, so you do not bend the card when dragging. It will also be much easier to control a drag than to push. If you burnish it correctly, you do not need oil and you only run the tool over the card once to create the burr. The more you run the tool over the card, the bigger the chance is, that you destroy the burr. We do NOT sand the card laying down on the side. We only do it standing at 90 degrees. Then we lay the card down at the edge of the table and run the burnishing tool flat over the edge once on each side. Then we run the tool at about 75-80 degrees once on each side. We move it up this time. Besides it is the perfect tool for making ultra shining varnishing jobs. First you sand the wood with a 400 grit as the last one. Then you apply a slightly thinned layer of varnish and let that dry completely. Make sure it has dried completely. Else you will end up making drag marks and remove entire layers. Then you use the card to take off wooden tops at 45 degree angle. Do it gently. No need to use a lot of force. If your card is sharp enough, it will do the job perfectly. Then remove all dust. Add another thin layer of varnish - let it dry - scrape - remove all dust - apply thinned layer of varnish etc. Do the scraping in another room than you varnish. Give it 8-10 layers of lightly thinned layers of varnish. It will take 8-10 days because of the drying. The last layer also has to be thinned, so it floats nicely together. You should not be able to drag the varnish as a thick mass. It should float together in a nice even layer. If there are brush streaks after a few seconds, then the varnish has not been thinned enough. So cover the surface with this thin layer - wet on wet - work quickly to apply even layer. Make sure it is done in a room without dust - it will set on the surface and leave tiny dots. When you have finished, the top layer will be shining and totally even. You can also use this method with matte varnish. Then you will get a nice silken surface. That is how we use the tool in boatbuilding here in Denmark.
I gave my friend two fifty pound pieces of chainsaw split pieces of figured hardwood, very dry as they had been in my climate controlled shop for decades. He wants to make slabs, cheeseboards. How would a boat builder approach using hand tools to level those slabs?
Hmmm that’s a tough one. I have certainly used small specialized scrapers with one hand, but not easy to use a flat wider one as I showed with one hand. I’ll have to play around with that one a bit. 👍😎
I've been using a card scraper for a few years, but never getting good results. I've seen the videos and tried to tune them up. Somehow I thought that starting with a file was unnecessary. I have diamond stones. Isn't that enough? Well, I watched this vid and saw the shavings he was getting. Thought, OK, I'll give it a try. Wow, what a difference! I'm going back and sharpening all my scrapers.
The most difficult thing about card scrapers is buying them. No one carries them and know one knows what they are. I prefer Sandvik. Thin, but not too thin and gold an edge well. Stanley much too thick. I dud finally find a Bahko. Very similar to a Sandvik. Bahco
Yes, you do briefly burnish or, also called, “drawing out the edge” prior to pushing over the burr. I show the whole process in this other free video: How to Sharpen and Use a Spokeshave with Tom McLaughlin ru-vid.com9yMuL4SVuOM?feature=share
You’re right about using the word “secret”…not much of a secret if it’s something you already know because someone told or showed you. But I’ve seen so many people learning who just needed to know this little “tip” (maybe a better word), because it was never emphasized, and it made all the difference. By the way, the seventies seem like just yesterday now don’t they 🤔😎. Thanks for watching! 👍
Actually I’m not, I’m trying to live in the real world the way people actually communicate because it’s recorded live. It could be reduced to an edited video with “just the facts” but that is not what we are doing with this format, it’s recorded live. All in all I thought I got to it fairly quickly, and keep in mind your price of entry is nothing, it’s free! 😎
For a lot of applications yes I’d agree that’s true. But in some circles it’s still a thing, when a power tool doesn’t offer enough control. But if in a production setting, usually not nice enough furniture to warrant the time. Thanks for watching 👍
Lots of people still use them! There are plenty of RU-vid videos of people using them even. They are an amazing tool that is extremely inexpensive. Definitely worth learning how to use with minimal monitaty investment.
