Marine diesel mechanic here; if the zincs are broken off they are actually not doing their job anymore, as they are no longer grounded to the engine via the brass cap. Check your zinc every month until you know hoe fast it disappears, that way you won't have any corrosion issues with critical metal parts of your engine. Nice job guys!
Gillian, when you run the engine at the dock monthly it is always a good idea to run it under load, start it and let it idle for say 5 minutes, then put it in forward and let it run like that at idle for a bit, then you can bring up the rpm's till the docklines get tight and then let it run like that for 10 mins, now your engines temp will be moving up, depending how cold the water is. You can then bring it back to idle and the engage it in reverse and repeat the proceedure, when that is done bring it back to neutral and then idle for 5 minutes to let it cool down slowly and then finally shut it down. If you just idle it at the dock for 15 minutes you are just carboning up the engine, diesels need to work and be under load and be at operating temperature. Also you can leave the engine key on the thru hull fitting for the sea water intake if you want to keep it closed, this way when you go to get the key to start the engine you will remember to open the thru hull fitting, this also serves the purpose of exercising the thru hull fitting from time to time to keep it working well. Hope this helps and good job servicing the engine. You may have the wrong size zinc anode and that is why it is falling out. Check with Universal Diesels on that, seems if it was the correct zinc anode you would not have to cut it. Hope this helps, peace, love and fruit.
Oh boy another tip ! Write the date of oil change and engine hours on the oil filter, if you misplace your book you still have the info. I do this on my farm equipment. #2… oooh two-for-one .. always check the old filter to be sure it’s rubber gasket did not remain on the engine, that gets messy fast. Great video.
Good job. It was nice that your brother was able to come and help you. I just read the comment below and I wonder if you saw that. It's from a diesel mechanic. Good to know I think.
For the anode (zinc) to corrode, it has to make a good electrical connection with the engine. The anodes you found into the heat exchanger most probably were not screwed in place tight enough and, with vibration, got loose and disconnected themselves from the engine. That would explain why they were not that much corroded. The engine and shaft anodes protect your engine from galvanic corrosion, do not hesitate to replace them regularly. Good job, Cheers
The Westerbeke-Universal engine is actually a Japanese-made Kubota tractor engine adapted for use in boats. You can buy many of the engine's parts (example injectors, glow plugs etc.) at tractor dealers for a fraction of the cost of Westerbeke. To install the engine in the Catalina 30, the engine was tilted downward toward the stern. Unfortunately, because of this, when you perform an oil change a quantity of oil in the aft side of oil pan remains out of the reach of the oil change pump's siphon tube. Just some info as to WHY the newly changed engine oil turns "black" so suddenly (it mixes with the old oil...)
Nice work! I would suggest an oil/temperature alarm b installed. I lost an M-20 for lack of hearing an alarm. They will buzz when the oil pressure is not built up, i.e. when you first turn the ignition key. Check the the back of the control panel in the cockpit. Theres a tiny buzzer between the oil and temp gauge that frequently fails. I got a cheap piezo electric alarm (kinda like for a smoke detector) that works great! Literally 50 cents and half hour install. Fair winds!
Beautiful blue eyes, a word of caution and safety. When working on your engine be sure to tie your hair up/ away. To get your hair sucked in by the belts would mean disaster. Especially if your out on the water were there may be no emergency help. Is" Dark Side of The Moon", the other side of Blue Moon? I seen pink Floyd live doing that album in Vancouver back in the day. You don't want broken zincs/partiicals blocking/restricting the water flow through your engine/ hoses. If you get over heating could be something to think about. Great to have a bro that knows what he is doing, well done. A good idea is to cut your old oil filter in half and check for fine metal wear from the engine. This will give you an idea on engine wear, if clean good.
You should create a montage of the edits you have made I'm betting it would be hilarious. Also I know it's been said but it really says a lot about your parents, you and your brother to see him helping you.
I see a lot of comments below about NOT having to pre-fill the oil filter... my mechanic father taught me to do so and this is why: When you start the engine after the oil change, the oil will fill the filter before circulating through the engine. You saw how much oil went into that filter! Your engine can run for 30 seconds or more with NO lubrication while it tries to fill the filter. Now it will be running, and definitely be low on oil! You did the right thing. Some larger filters can take a half litre of oil to fill 😳! I also would have left the pee pads under the engine while filling too, to catch any drips. Then, while you still have everything opened up- give things a good clean ! Wipe down the engine or spray it with a de-greaser? (see 10:40) It's looking a little messy. It makes it easier to see problems developing when the engine is clean, Leaks are easier to spot, Fasteners are easier to undo when crud doesn't accumulate. Just suggestions. Your brother was a great help!
Just a thought. Always a good idea to run the engine for 15-20 minutes after doing the work you did just to check for any leaks. Probably won't have any but better to find them at the dock rather than out miles from home. Great work as usual.
A Coupe of tips Gillian . Pre-filling the oil filter holds no true benefit , you can skip doing that . As for draining the old oil from the filter . Get the filter free then punch a hole in the side/top of it with a screwdriver . After that you can just spin the filter so the hole is pointing downward into your little catch pan . Wait until its done dripping out then spin it the rest of the way off . And for the pencil zinc I screw the zinc in about 3/4 of the way in then wrap the remaining exposed threads with teflon tape . I use enough to make it difficult to to get in by hand but not so much that would require a wrench , those things like to break . The tape will keep the corrosion on the threads to a minimum so it doesn't fall out of the tapered nut . You can do the same to the nut that screws in to the heat exchanger as well . Home depot has it , its inexpensive .
You will have to get Romeo to give the hull a scrape from all the growth when he comes back. Nice job with the oil change. Maybe you should think about a brother sister sailing adventure.
Omg that tee (Dark side if the moon) if its an original is older than you !!! Just a quickie on marine engines. 90% of breakdowns are contaminated fuel. Change filters every year regardless. Always keep fuel tank full to avoid condensation especially over winter. Oil filters last forever i only change every 200 run hours oil change every 100 hrs. Check oil level everytime you run the engine and top up even if it only needs a cupfull. Biggest contamination of oil is condensation so run at least once a week. Check belts everytime you check the oil. Never turn off engine by using the key always pull the stop lever otherwise you could damage the alternator. Great job guys love this channel. Noticed some studs on the ceiling you really should cover them or shorten them before somebody gets a head injury. You may think you are too short now but in a bad sea you can be thrown into the ceiling by a bad wave. You dont need a skull fracture at the same time you are fighting bad weather trust me lol 😀
You do not have to add oil to the filter before you put it on, just let it idle at low RPM for a few seconds, watch the pressure gauge, once you have oil pressure the filter is full. Unless you know that the broken zinc was from the one you removed, it could have been from before you got the boat. I love watching you do work on Blue Moon, you are so methodical, its great. Looking forward to seeing you cutting through the waves soon.
.... a great video, always good to learn something new .... sure was a beautiful day there for boat chores, no bag piper on this day .... personally I think the background noise and hustle and bustle ads to the ambiance ..... that vacuum bottle sure worked well. When siphoning the exit of the has to be lower than the surface being siphoned, know how to do it, the physics behind it is cool and works like a hog damn ... laughing ... have had a mouthful of fuel more than once ... gotta say you got that oil filter spun on first time like a champ ...... thx for sharing .... never stop dreaming, just dream bigger .. have fun be safe, save our oceans ......
There's a lot of good tips in your comment section, Teflon tape on zinc rod threads, have a Note Book with DATE of Oil & Filter & ZINC ROD change, get a proper fitting filter wrench because it may not be so EZ to remove next time. Andrew did a fine job.
You have given me a great idea for my boats thruhulls, I'm thinking of using lever type and adding a contact to the lever so I can wire indicator lights at my helm to show the thruhulls are open for the motor.
Your brother is fun to watch! Hope to see more of him in upcomming episodes! Good video with lots learned along the way. Note: to cut down one one potential spill don't bother to fill the filter before installing. The engine will do that when started. May need to top off oil level after starting. You are becomming more self sufficient every day Gillian! Way to go!👏👍👌⛵🌏😊
Good for you doing the maintenance and chasing those zinc chunks out. That will improve circulation. You said you pads look like them but diapers make great absorbent pads.
Yay for company! I'll about to see if the engine on my new to me 30 foot Beneteau starts after 6 years *fingers crossed * If it works I'll have to service it. Thanks for showing us how you did it!
When you change the oil you should top it off, bringing it to the full line on the dipstick, but not over the line. When you have an oil filter mounted sideways like that, priming it won't make a difference because unlike with a vertically mounted filter, there is so little oil in the thing that when the engine isn't running it won"t matter what you do with it. Secondly if you're really that concerned about the volume in the filter all you have to do is run the engine for a couple minutes then check your oil level, and top it off if it even needs it.
Noise, what noise? All I hear is a sweet Universal Diesel running. The carillon sounds pretty. The zink should be tightened into the holder more securely. The zink doesn't really do much if it is not electrically connected to the item being protected. Think about the zinks that are securely attached to the propeller shaft. That is not just so they don't fall off when the shaft is turning, it's so that they are electrically connected to the shaft and propeller.
a long neck funnel would help a bunch by bringing the fill point up and away from the seat back. also in the future you can run two oils lines above the engine to mount the oil filter to a more reasonable location and position
I'm late to the game but it looks to me as if you have the original alternator bracket on that engine. Those are a known failure point and Universal issued a TSB on them back in the early 90's. There is a retrofit alternator bracket kit available from Catalina Direct. If the bracket breaks it breaks the timing case cover which are no longer available and also usually pierces the oil filter which pumps the oil out of the engine in short order. ie, a failed alternator bracket can be devastating. You should install the updated alternator bracket.
You know a good way to change the filter is to prime the oil filter, fill it with oil,let it soak into the filter element (it takes a few minutes of topping off) then with a side filter pour the extra out into the motor before installing it, then when it fills with oil it's mainly circulating and not trying to circulate while absorbing oil, gets the pressure up quicker and you have less oil loss when adding initially, on big diesels with vertical filters priming is a must to keep from oil starvation, you just let the oil sit in the filter on them when installing.
Great idea to run the engine every week. Run it at least ten minutes to heat it up enough to evaporate the condensation that builds up in the oil, and to enable the exhaust to thoroughly dry out after stopping (yeah, you already knew that). If you leave your through-hull open then all those little sea-bugs that grow outside can grow inside. Make sure to at least "cycle" the sea-cock regularly because it can get fouled and stuck opened. That would really suck if a hose failed.
Please ,please. please do yourself a favor and never use Fram filters on your engine, probably hands down the worst replacement filters on the market. THATS WHY THEY ARE SO CHEAP.If you value your engine which i'm sure you do use a Wix or just about any other filter other than Fram. If you doubt my opinion go on any of the car channels on youtube try vise grip garage and type in oil changes best filters, there should be some good info for you to watch! Stay safe & happy sailing!
Cool, so you don't drain the oil through a bolt in the bottom of the drain pan like on a car? I was wondering how it was done. Looks like much less of a pain this way. I like this how-to video. But of course I like everything on the channel, too!
Totally impressed with your preparation for, and executing the oil change! You are incredibly mechanically inclined Jillian!! Diesel oil is really messy by nature, so great job keeping it contained - the carbon and Sulphur are the enemies of your engine - so changing the oil is really wise. The zinc surprised me a bit - are you in Salt water or fresh currently? I guess they sacrifice either way. Jonas got a truly helpful and lovely mate!
Sometimes when you're in a marina, your anodes are dealing with electrical corrosion (galvanic corrosion? Sorry, can't remember the name exactly) from your boat AND any poorly protected boat(s) around it. That can lead to your anodes degrading much more rapidly than you'd expect, and might be what happened here (since you seemed really surprised with the condition of your zinc). Galvanic Isolators can help with this issue, but can be expensive. Anodes are fairly inexpensive, so maybe double how often you check your anodes just to stay on top of it. Better safe than rusty. ;-)
Gillian, great job! But, Fram is not a good filter. Yes it's cheap and will work but Wix or Bosch is your best bet for filtration. Watch Project Farm on RU-vid, he test all kinds of products extensively.
The Oil Change Balls/tubes are suction based not siphon based. The pump creates a vacuum in the chamber and it sucks until vacuum is released by out-of-oil break or an air break. So you don't have to keep continuously pumping, just enuf to maintain the flow. Siphoning works from high to low gradient or gravity driven. You are sucking up. And "zincs" are considered used up at 40% ablated, for future reference
I like the Rotella oil brand also but your engine supposed to use 10W-30 or 10W-40 viscosity I guess running 15W-40 will be acceptable as long as you are using your engine in a hot climate definitely change to the lighter viscosity if your going arctic or cold weather winter time sailing though. I also don't mind running the thicker viscosity oils on older high hour worn out engines this is what I used to do for my automobiles that were really ragged out in an attempt to slow the burning of the oil down but you don't really want to do that on a new or recently rebuilt engine without asking the builder if it will be OK to use the thicker oils it really depends on how the clearances in the engine are set. Your engine is based off of the Kubota D850 engine block and this is where I got the oil viscosity specs from I am not sure if Universal is recommending the 15W-40 or not if they are then I am sure it is fine to use that viscosity though.
So I believe you have a universal deisel xmp and not a m. My bolts for the starter are 12 mm and not 1/2 inch. I started to use a 1/2 inch but glad I checked cause it was too big.
When you change the oil the clean and easy way. Suck the oil out the dip stick tube. Loosen the oil filter just a little then place a large zip lock type bag around the oil filter. Loosen and remove the oil filter. Zip the bag shut. Clean up may not even be necessary if you are careful during filter removal. And if done right no need for rubber gloves.
@@mikehoward70 well I can say from experience, you don't know what you are doing. So please leave it to professionals who use this method and know how not to screwup
@@eddieohearn17 Full marks for rudeness. The method you suggest may well work for some people, it didn't work for me. Adding a plastic bag when trying to unscrew an oil filter with one hand and no line of sight ended up being very messy. The method used by Gillian and Andy works much better for me on my boat
@@mikehoward70 sorry if honesty hurts little you. But it is apparent that you do not understand the technic professional use. I have used this method for about 30 years now and had only one mishap were I dropped the bag with filter. There was no mess because you remove the oil from the engine first. It appears from you response you fail to do this. As I said leave it to professionals.
Change the oil filter on every oil change, and Fram filters are really one of the cheapest (as in crap) filters you can buy. Get the Wix equivalent if you can, and have extras on hand for the next time.
you should never use a FRAM Oil filter they are very cheap for a reason they have been know to have the paper fall apart and or just turn into a giant spit ball inside the canister spend a little more for a good filter and you will have a engine that is going to last much longer do a search for FRAM OIL FILTERS you will see several reasons to not buy them you would be better off with no filter at all over the fram
It’s VERY important to tighten the zinc anodes into the plug as they need to make a proper connection to the engine to get the proper grounding so the sacrificial anode can do it’s job ,,,, the one that was loose in there would not be doing its job efficiently
Hope you realize that there is oil / transmission fluid in the reverse / reduction gear. It needs to be changed and level checked on a regular basis. Refer to your engine manual for type and quantity. But rule of thumb change trans oil every other time you change engine oil. Fuel filter both primary and secondary should be changed at least once a year whether you do a lot of hours or not. And more often if running a lot of hours.
Did you by chance take some sort of diesel engine class to learn the basics. I ask because in another video you did you had an issue with your bilge alarm. You found the issue in the stuffing box. So with all of that I wondered if you didn't take some sort of basic diesel engine class.
You are not changing the gearbox oil at the same time? If that gets full with condensation (water), it breaks real easy... God to change every year too. How about the cooling water impeller? Why not change that too? Keep the one in there as a spare.
You don't need to put oil in the oil filter before putting it on! just on the gasket. Your zinc being to long hit the top and bent it or broke it off. A way to save on zinc's is run a wire with an old zinc and hang it over the side then you know it's there. you can buy a brush that goes on the prop shaft then you won't have to spend Huge bucks replacing your prop and shaft.
How's your rudder? You might want to see this one before sailing, given the environment at your dock... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LWQCb2Xmrug.html
