This is a video that should help you in setting up your atv for XC cross country racing. If you are new to racing or have a stock quad, this will give you some ideas on how to make your atv safer and faster. #Team2Gils #Team2GilsRacing
A list of must have: Mandatory items: Tether, Nerf Bars, Hand guards, skid plate, swing arm guard or sprocket/Rotor protection. Must Haves: steering stabilizer, tuning your shocks/new shocks that are tuned for you, race specific XC tires like GBC XC Masters, Big 3, (full pipe, air filter, and fuel controller) especially for fuel injection bikes as they run real lean from the factory, I would add larger wider grab bars as must haves as well. Other Nice things: bead locks wheels, handle bar suspension (Shock and vibe, anti vibe, fast flex), shock wear shock protectors, a-arm guards, Power-Madd gauntlets for muddy days, better thumb throttle (Urmosi) if yours sucks
Thanks for making this video it was very helpful! I have a 2014 Honda 400x that I’m building so I can race Mountain State Hare Scrambles! I’m super excited to race and I just ordered some parts from this video! Thanks for the advice, great video!
optional items you can think about: high friction seat cover, radiator/ overflow tank guard (some bikes are more protected than others), possibly narrower bars than stock from more clearance in tight woods, most any aftermarket grips are more comfy than stock. thanks for the tips! hope everyone has a great time on the tracks!!
@@Team2Gils The Tecate was a fast bike and looked good. My 250R was a 1984 model. I am 49 years old and weigh 300. I think the Raptor 700R would be a good place to start.
@@gorillahd9247 My Tecate was an 84! I am 54 and just started racing last year for the first tim e. The Raptor is a good choice. It will last forever, and for me, the reverse is a life saver as I cannot lift it without throwing my back out. Sucks getting old. The Raptor can make tons of power and is really de-tuned from the factory. Putting an intake, exhaust, and fuel controller can free like 20%+ and the bike has tone of torque.
Nice, hope to see you out there! I also have a video on how the raptor does as a race bike if you are interested. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zmrOWDQtauw.html
Handgaurds are Powermadd Sentinels. I have a video out there on them as well if you want more information. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vcDUxcd6TuM.html
Question what did you make your steering stabilizer protector and your electronic protectors out of in this video? I want/need something like this, thanks. Nice wheeler also.
ABS plastic. Can't remember offhand the vendor but they specialize in dirt track racing and they use this for spoilers and air dams. Came in like a 6x3 foot roll so you can make all sorts of stuff with it. On my intros, the 222 number plate on the rear is the same stuff.
Great video thank u yo take the time yo do it. Can you please share your shock configuration? It will be a great starting point for tunning suspension. I ride same tipe of terreain you ride. Thx!
I have sent mine out and had them re sprung and re valved. In tuning shocks yourself, here is how I went about it. First off, you need to get on your bike, jump up and down a few times to settle the suspension, and take a measurement from the floor to the frame right in front of the foot peg (with you still on it), and then another one about in front of the engine mounts or prior to your frame bending upwards if it does. About 3/4 in is supposed to be optimal but my bike came with 22 inch front tires and 20 in the rear so I am about 1 1/4 on mine. For compression and rebound, you need to go some where there is some whoops, jumps and normal woods where you ride. You start by turning the compression and rebound screws all the way in counting the clicks as you go, write those down, and turn them back out to where they were. This is your baseline that you can always go back to, make sure the fronts have identical settings. Look in your manual and find out how many clicks you have to work with so you know where you are at. You are likely in the middle if it is at factory spec. Start with the fronts and back the compression off 2 clicks and ride. See how they feel hitting bumps rocks and logs, take a jump or 2 and make sure they do not bottom out. Once in while is fine just not all the time. If it is better, try 2 clicks more and repeat. Next do the rear in the same manor. You want them as soft as you can or like without bottoming out. Be sure to write down the setting each time you make an adjustment. Now start with rebound. Take some jumps and whoops, does the bike feels like it kicks up at the top of the jump or bounce when you land? Is so tighten rebound, if not loosen it. Each setting can affect the other so you may need to readjust compression again. Keep a pen , paper, and small screwdriver with you at all times, and this may take several outings to tease out the best setting for you. My front shocks had max setting of 2 turns on high speed compression, I was set at 1.75, slow speed max was 18, mine 14, rebound max 30, mine 19. Rears, high speed comp max 2, mine 1.5, slow speed max 18, mine14, rebound max 30, mine 16. These setting have me a smooth ride over obstacles and great handling over whoops and jumps. The softness though caused my front end to dive going into turns causing it to push. This was the trade off and you will need to find yours. I sent mine out to be professionally tuned and with new springs and valving I have smoothness and great handling in the turns. Just go slow, write everything's down, you can always go back to stock.
@@Team2Gils thank you very very much for your super quick and detailed answer! Its a great info and im sure many many people will benefit from it. Thanks you very much! I dont live in USA, so its very hard/imposible to me to send my shocks to be reworked. In your opinion from 1 to 10 how much improvement you get after the reworked resi shocks?
@@yxiscatti makes a big difference. I race mine so it is pushed hard. I had it riding smooth already, having them redone really increased the handling. Just adjusting my stock shocks made a big difference as well. Used to try and buck me off all the tine, going hard over whoops was risky as well. After adjustment you could hit rocks, logs, and tree roots without slowing you down or throwing you down.
Are those mud guards I spy up front? I'd be curious to learn more. It's amazing how similar our bikes are! I have an 18 as well and my mods are damn near identical to yours!
Yes they are. I made them myself. I have a video called mud guards that will give you a closer look at them. Everybody keeps asking what those are so I decided to fo a video. Easy to do and work great.
@@Team2Gils I'll check it out! Always looking for ways to make clean up easier! Not an XC'r myself, but I like to pretend as there's not a huge demand for XC here in Washington State.
Wanted to say thank you for a great video. I am going to start xc racing next month and I don't have beadlocks yet. What kind of air pressure where you running without beadlocks.
@@Team2Gils thank you very much. I am 51 and have 06 ltr 450. Flexx bars. Steering stabilizer plus the bike has been rebuilt. You have been on of the people who have inspired me to do this. I'm doing all I can to get seat time and to really learn the bike. If I like doing this I will invest in suspension. But I want to get my feet wet first to see if I like it. I have watched most of your videos and keep up the great content.
Are all these mods great for not only racing xc but doing nothing but hard trail riding ?I have a ltr 450 and do mainly trail riding recently purchased a precision steering stabilizer and that was a world of a difference looking into getting beadlocks next..just wondering if it's worth it not only for racing but for hard trail riding ..
The stabilizer is a great choice, and getting your shocks tuned will be a big improvement. Beadlocks would give you a little piece of mind but that is about it. A good set of gbc xc masters would be worth getting when tires are needed. As with everything, it depends on you and what you like. A lot of folks widen the bike, but probably would not do that personally. Also, if your shocks are adjustable with compression and rebound, spend time making them the best they can be. I made mine a lot better then where the factory had them set.
@@Team2Gils yes I plan on getting shocks tuned they are fully adjustable and I will also be getting a set of gbc xmaster I've had my eye on them for a while now..my stock rear wheel is a 8in alot of folks are recommending to go with a 9in rear wheel for some reason if I want to run 20in tires but not sure why ..any idea why that is?if I'll be getting more sidewall with an 8in wheel vs a 9 in wheel..
@@rickyhernandez995 seems like newer bikes moved to 9 inch rears but not sure how much difference you would notice. Likely have a little better cornering with a shorter sidewall.
There are a lot of good places. A lot of my gear and such I use Cycle Gear, for big parts like suspension and engine use KB Motorsports, and for most everything else I use Rocky Mountain ATV.
@@Team2Gils yes, good to have, just not required from a rules standpoint. I myself have never liked nerf bars personally. Specifically in the woods racing. But, I’m old school (87’ 250R).
@@Team2Gils I know 🤣 I grew up riding dirt bikes. The banshee just feels so wide with the fenders on. For some reason I keep hitting trees with my front left tire and that sends me over the handle bars. I BENT the original A Arm from hitting trees. So I ✂️ the fenders off and I'm doing really good now.
@@Team2Gils I also would loose control and go over backwards. I broke my tailbone back when I was 44. It hurt so bad. I took that stupid thumb throttle off and put on a twist throttle. I have way more control now. Feels like a normal dirt bike
@@Floridawoodsbanshee if you start xc racing, you need to be on good terms with the trees, piss them off and they will reach out a grab a front tire every chance they can!
@@Floridawoodsbanshee this was the first thing I owed without a twist throttle, just thought I would try to get used to it. Had to upgrade to an Urmosi though. Factory thumb was terrible.
