Disregard the negative comments or the "thumbs down". Make your own video before criticizing someone. Excellent job for those of us who may run into this issue. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Method 1 helped me remove a broken power steering bolt from the engine block. So relieved to not visit a mechanic over that. Took about 5-7 minutes of tapping the screwdriver, till I finally reached it with needle nose pliers and then fingers. Much appreciate your video!
You saved my life. Pulley bolt on my washing machine snapped and I don’t know how much it would have cost to fix without this video. Thanks to you, I got the snapped screw bolt out and it cost me £4 to fix my washing machine. Thanks!
Great video as a young (still learning) mechanic myself i sometimes break and strip a lot of old rusty bolts all the time. these methods are life savers because knows if you dont know how to get a bolt out it will hold you back hours on a job. sometimes simple jobs which suck. thanks
I want to deeply thank you for this video. It saved me from a serious issue I had with my car. I broke a bolt on the coil pack and lucky me it had a small topper left to hammer with a wedge. it knocked it loose. Thanks.
One of the best ways I've found to remove broken bolts is to use a tool of some sort and cut across the bolt surface to create a groove/slot for a standard screw-driver. A "dremel" (rotary tool) with the tiny cutting wheel works best for nearly every application. As long as the bolt isn't rusted in or bottomed out in the hole, the bolt will turn out. Using heat will make a big difference if it's a stubborn bolt.
These are great tips/tools to keep in your mind when you are stuck in the field, the more ideas the better. Thank you for posting, Ciao, L For those who like to criticize engineers should know that most engineers love what they are doing (as they studied so many years studying engineering) and have been experimenting in the field for years, "on their own".
Actually there's nothing saying it had to be the same size bold. THerefore, a possible method 8 would have been to drill out the clean hole and thread for a larger bolt (no helicoil needed).
With method 6 you should retap the thread afterwards just to clean up any damage. A variant of this that I've done is to make the hole big enough to get a junior hacksaw blade through it then cut at least 2 parallel slots through the chamber of the hole towards the edge of the thread. Then collapse in the screws shell. I use a tool from a lathe that looks like a mini flattish chisel, not a screwdriver.
5:59 Bolt extractors are not cheap and they break easily if you turn them like that. If the broken bolt is at all stiff then use the same two-handed wrench as at 8:29 to avoid side force.
Thank you for these complete recipes. They would have saved my day more than once if I only had known some of them. In my humble opinion, most of the dislikes (1635 versus 2328 at this moment) may come from people already experienced on this, so the video did not add up to their knowledge.
You can also drill with about 3 mm drill and hammer a TORX bit into the hole. Works great on M6 bolts and other smaller ones. This method doesn't ruin the thread if you drill carefully. And also usually once the cap of has been removed from a bolt that's stuck, the rest of the threaded part comes off really nicely.
Best investment for doing the work featured in the video is a set of Left Handed Drill bits, Carbide bits, small chisels, long tapered centre point punches. The reducer threads should have been cleaned with alcohol / acetone / ether before applying the thread locker,(likewise the parent threaded fixture.) "Staking" the insert (neatly) when in position is also a guarantee against failure. The person in the video means well, but does not appear to have a lot of experience / skill in performing that kind of task.
If using an "Easy Out" Extractor. Get the center punch dead center for best results and then turn the extractor evenly with a Tap Wrench (from a tap and die set). Using a spanner/grips will put a bending force on the extractor, which being brittle hardened steel puts it at risk of snapping. Take note this is not just being a pedant. In this demo the bolt is not seized, and extractor is not under stress. In real life you'll regret not using the correct tool pretty quickly.
+cornelis email I agree, the guy who made this video must be an engineer because he thinks he knows what he's doing and has clearly never remove a frozen bolt
+mopar43v3r With the pinpoint chisel he makes a groove and uses that to push the bolt backwards. With flathead chisel at least I use existing grooves to push it backwards. That's why I said it's no the same.
+Stev Rex I think you're illustrating my point more than I am for you. Your panties are so twisted. It's like you're an angry girl. That's cool though I don't judge.
Thanks for the helpful video. I just used technique #1 with a jewel screwdriver and a light hammer to extract a tiny broken screw from a $700 piece of lab equipment. Only took 5 minutes.
In the first three methods... if the screw (actually a bolt!) were that loose that it could be tapped out with a hammer, screwdriver, or chisel... how did it break off in the first place? In my experience, a broken screw or bolt occurs because the tolerance is so tight that the screw or bolt will not turn without extreme force...
+Jarrod P There are some countrys where Bolt and Screw ar different things, e.g. Germany, google "Bolzen" which is "Bolt" and the "Schraube" which is "Screw", then you will see
+joonas meriläinen In our workshop workers do something like reverse sharpening of regular drill bit then drill that nut in "left" direction, if that doesnt help, overdrill and larger bore spindle, or welding ... but we use more then this simple 7 anyway....
Tibor Végh while that's true, it's also an eponym. Since Loctite is the company that developed the formula, and at one time only made the one product, it's name is used generically, and anyone with any experience in engineering will know what I meant. Anything else is all symantics.
I know what you mean, like when all insulated drink containers are called a thermos, no matter who made them. I did however intend my comment to be read be people with engineering experience. After all, it's a video where a mechanic or engineer is showing tips and tricks. I believe the audience, in large, knew what I meant.
If you have part of the stud protruding out of the hole, you could partially grind a parallel flat on the stud and then use some pliers to spin it out of the hole. Or you could grind a slot in it and use a slotted screwdriver to extract it as well. But there is many way you could go about this. There really isn't a wrong or right way as well. As long as you are able to remove the broken stud and not damage the threads, you are golden.
+jim sanker Yeah. Helicoil the way to go. I've had to do many, many reel clamp bolt holes on the Penn International "T" (tube frame) series as they used chromed brass bolts. The salt would corrode aluminum and the bolts wring(sp?) off. 1/4 x 20 Helicoil and good as new (never to corrode again!).
+notoriouskelly I would have appreciated this information when I was a teenager. Fifty years later, I know all these methods and could suggest a couple more, but they are still handy for those who are just starting out.
Tapered helical extractors are a wast of time, as they only work if the screw is loose enough for other methods to work just fine. In all other cases you have to apply enough torque to wedge them into the fastener which jams it even more tightly than it already was. Then they break. They're a typical "hardware store" item, like carbon steel drill bits, which hardly andy tradesman would ever consider using, let alone buying
Gottenhimfella Have you ever used Easy Outs ?They have an anti clockwise thread & work well. If you're a bit rough with them and don't drill an accurate hole, then they're not going to be any good.Not everyone can weld(If you can).Maybe drill a hole smaller than the diameter of the bolt ,into a piece of steel ,clamp it on and weld that .His welding looked a bit shoot from the hip...There endeth the lesson!.....
If you have access to a lathe or various steel tubing, you could use a slice as a centering collar e.g. 6.5 mm o.d for a m8 thread, to fit inside the hole to the start of the thread, then a drill which matches the i.d/ bore, put it in the hole and drill it blind, then extract. ;) Could also use a bit of heat/ gas on aluminium, dependant on which part of the engine you're on, as it will conduct and expand alot quicker than steel.
The lot of you dumbasses', the drill bit is turning the RIGHT way.!! one: It' cutting steel and drilling the hole. Two: a drill bit going the wrong way will not drill, especially not in steel. Three, watch the feels on cars or wagons in the movies, they all appear to be going the wrong way, even though the vehicle is moving forward.
these extractions were pretty straight foreword.. the toughest extractions I've run across were removing broken exhaust manifold studs below the turbo on 3406 cats.. on those,you had to drill a hole all the way through the stud & then use oxegen/acel to heat the stud & blow the stud out with the oxygen only.. wasn't easy..
+terry wheatley after drilling all the way through you didn't use an easy out? Or you could have drilled the screw out totally and then re-threaded to next size. NO, you had to blow the the threads F..ing out with an O/A torch?? WTF !!! What Did You Do Then????
Bob Duvall after drilling through the stud, all the way, I would use the torch & CAREFULLY cut a side of the stud. once the side was cut, hit the oxygen dead center of the stud & the stud would literally blow out of the hole.. an old school mech showed me this trick, it took a little practice, but it works! since your working on a head, take your time & have a good torch. ever break a easy out inside a exhaust stud? that can make a bad/long day. exhaust studs have to be a exact size, oversizing won't work.
Ragnar W. Eliansson a 3406 cat is a very expensive eng & you would run the risk of damaging the head by oversizing the exhaust stud. replacing a broken stud is a not an expensive job, mostly gaskets & labor. but if you did manage to oversize it, then you would have to drill the manifold to accept the larger stud.. I would never drill into a head for any reason, might be a mistake you would regret... good-luck!
