Love your videos my friend! It's good to question products, I wish more people would ask questions instead of jump on the first bandwagon that roles by! Kudos to you!
Well I'll be honest and say I haven't been able to spend much money in archery yet. I do watch a lot of your videos and when the time comes (and the $😂) I would be happy to spend extra to buy from you. From what I have seen in the last year on this channel it shows you go above and beyond for customer satisfaction and the options for choice of top quality. I love your honesty and thoroughness. In my opinion it looks like you have implemented a great example on how business should be done. Very difficult to do especially with lots of customers and little time. Either way, thanks for continuing the great content! The one thing I look to your channel for and haven't been able to figure out is how to shoot thumb release accurately and consistently while wearing glasses. So I gave up.. Bought contact lenses 😊
There's something called canting. Bow is slanted relative to the head and it won't hit your glasses. I'm not sure if I mentioned about it in any video, so I guess this could be "the next video"
I hope this video gets more views. This is an important subject and deserves much more consideration. Perhaps bad for business though, as it may lead to bows that actually last. Question: With ILF recurve limbs, there is similar reflex to asiatic bows. Carbon is pretty common in these limbs. Some are known for holding up quite well under heavy use. Can anything be learned here? PS: I intend to make an ILF horsebow riser, eventually.
Bow length to drawlength ratio is very different. On ILF bows, the max drawlength is about bow length divide 2, basically half the bow length. Example a 60" ILF is for 30" draw. But a 60" Asiatic is drawn to 34-35". To put it into context, the 60" western curve only has a powerstroke of 30" - 8" (brace height) - 1.75" (handle depth) = 20.25". 60" Asiatic has a powerstroke of 34.5" - 7" (brace height) - 1.4" (handle depth) = 26.1". That's 29% greater powerstroke and stress compared to an identical size western bow. If you would to treat as Asiatic bow just like a western recurve, it's actually equally durable. For example, I like to use a 60" bow despite a 30" drawlength (from back), so rarely ever any issue with my bows.
The thing about carbon is that some Bowyer don't understand the property of the carbon material and directly swap their glass with carbon. This will be disastrous because carbon is quite different than glass. To utilize carbon correctly, the thickness of the material on the back and belly would have to be asymmetrical because the tensile and compressive strength is significantly different. Also, the tiller of the bow must account for the lower strain limit, by bending the limb more evenly. Very often glass bow use the same thickness on both back and belly, and the limbs are tillered to bend aggressively in one spot. If done right, carbon can work on short bows, but the Bowyer needs to recalibrate his bow design and not just a lazy swap of materials.
If carbon material is prone to break due to low flexibility and is better for longer limbs then why do short korean bow makers like kaya include carbon in their bows. I have a 46ish inch Kaya Bow with carbon and was shot very a hundred times and no break.
It all comes down to design and how you use it. 1) if you use a very thin layer on back only, it bends less than the belly. 2) if you use a very thin layer in the middle, it experience no tensile or compression. 3) if you use on belly, you have to make sure the tiller is such that the bend is as evenly distributed as possible. 4) if you use on belly, you have to account for the compression strain limit by adjusting the thickness. 5) or just lie about your product using carbon when it is just black glass. I've identified Korean makers/sellers doing so because most people couldn't tell them apart anyway. People will just believe without verifying.
