I'm a 71yearold novice learning correct mechanics so I don't injure myself. Well I have been working on the full draw from the getgo . It's working center hits come from full draw and good release which comes from a good draw. I was a welder and machinist for 40 years. I was never afraid of work.
99.9% of archers don't understand full full draw where the rear hand is actually fully extended. In the advanced archery community we call this butterfly form. My draw is 67 inch at true full draw
My draw length is 28 by simple 2.5 method, but full draw with elbow aligned and back tension feeling right is more like 30. This feels too far from a 28 anchor at corner of mouth to 30 full draw. Maybe I need my anchor further back.
I think I just discovered this today after shooting for 20 years. I was experimenting with Co.ing through my clicker but continuing to the point where I felt I was at max extension. Added about half an inch to my draw length. I really struggle with my bow shoulder collapsing and getting fatigued before the end of a 6 dozen round, so I'm hoping this will help with my shoulder issues.
Hey Ashe, great video. Real full draw concept makes sense. It's seems more achievable when anchoring under the chin though. Finding it difficult moving to full draw when anchoring at corner of mouth. Any advice much appreciated.
I have the same issue I can get to full draw but my hand ends up next to my cheek and on release the string as often as not tries to take a bit of my cheek with it..... It's gotten to the point where I've started shooting thumb draw instead. No more flinching in fear of having my skin torn off
A while ago I was trying to explain this elbow movement to a young lady on a beginners course and she said "Oh, you mean like trying to chin someone who's standing behind you?" It seemed to work for her! Great video, as always - many thanks.
@@lucydad100 British slang meaning to strike someone in the face using one's elbow - particularly effective when good shoulder rotation is employed ...
Hi Asha yes another good video I had this problem with my head jerking back and what I've now fitted is a kisser button which I pull back to the corner of my mouth my drawer is 26 and a half and it feels really comfortable and I do it with one knocking clip so I slide the arrow up to the knocking clip and then just release which is brought it up 100% as you've shown , a few people in the club have noticed the grouping of mine is getting tighter and I told them the different way I'm doing it but they still use the 2 over one under but I find the 3 under sliding the arrow up to the nocking point keeps everything tight and just as smooth releas l will show the lads in the club so keep your videos going absolutely 100% all the best Brian and keep safe if
I feel a little guilty to get so many valuable points for free. They helped me a lot and I think you should open a Patreon account to get back what you're giving out. Thank you again fot this huge amount of REALLY useful information.
Thanks so much, I really appreciate it :) Quite a lot of people have reached out and said I should do something like that too, I will look into it :) Thanks for the kind words
You can do whatever you're comfortable with, at least you're doing your form right 👍 I'm just a beginner and just love watching this bro's video makes me interesting about doing my form and stuff right 🙂🙂🙂 anyways thanks again brother for all your coaching videos really appreciate it 👏👏👏
First of all, I have to make sure I have no tension from the wrist to the scapula. From the ‘set’ position, I focus on the scapula and feel for the elbow being at the furthest point behind my head. I see people using tension which brings into play the shoulder muscles thus denying the ability to get into true full draw.
That sounds good! You're absolutely right, if there is lots of tension in the wrist and it is kinked inwards, it makes it extremely hard to draw properly and get to real full draw!
The difference between Full Draw and Back Tension? I thought Back Tension gets you to full Openess and Alignment? Obviously Readiness and Back Tension aren't necessarily the same thing but is that the point I'm missing...Readiness and Full Everything and Back Tension?
Really helpful. Thanks. I've just got to the point after a lockdown's worth of autodidact backyard Agincourt, where I'm confident enough to start experimenting with a 70"/34lb bow (instead of 68"/34lb). That additional 6lbs makes a substantial difference. Or, to put it another way, 28lbs is very, very forgiving. Every time I have taken up the bigger bow, it has punished my errors mercilessly. Right now (but maybe not next Spring) I can shoot it and emerge un-bruised, but my 'full draw' experience does not correspond at all closely with your very clear explanation, so that's food for thought over the long winter nights - Cheers!!
No worries, happy it helps :) Take it easy with the poundage increase, 6lbs is quite a lot in one go! When I'm going up in poundage I normally do 0.5lb increments or 1lb at the most :)
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy . . . . . and then I watched Jake Kaminsky on posture (cold, wet, rainy - what else is there to do?). Added 'chest down' (among other things) into the mix with the idea of 'inside the bow'. Got outside today, briefly, 24 to 36 arrows shot between online meetings, warming up on the 28lb, moving to the 34lb at dusk. Noticeable improvement - could be my last arrows this side of Easter: let's hope I don't let too much of this learning slip away between times. I shall study your scapula movement next (not an everyday expression, I think, somehow)
My coach has me working expansion. So far I just do not have the feeling. I wonder if I am holding draw arm elbow too high defeating the elbow around motion? Coach said today that expansion form improvement will really pay dividends long term. Anchor first, then full draw is correct? But how to keep aim, or only final focus and aim and release after full draw? I am only 3 months into shooting a recurve, no clicker, no sights.
I've been shooting for about 6 months, just bought my own bow after using the club beginner's equipment and drastically improved. Then saw this video and tried your technique and tried it and wow I've found my form and improved even more!
Hi! I did ask to make sure before I made the video, but unfortunately the archer I made the video about asked me to remove it so I have done that and it isn't public anymore. I will make another video to cover it again soon :)
Thank you for this video I am looking for information about how i can hit a target very low high Because i have hard time to do it Thank for all your help in your videos
people said, pro archer have place the arrow point arround 2mm on clicker. can you explain where this thing happen, on anchor or real full draw? thanks a lot
Great question! This would be at real full draw. For a world class archer, once they get to the anchor position there would only be a small amount of arrow under the click, perhaps 3mm. Once they have reached real full draw, there would normally be 1mm or even 0.5mm to expand through the clicker during expansion. The worlds best archers have extremely fine control of the arrow length under the clicker - I'll make a video on this specifically in the future :)
Thanks a lot. Hope you make another video like this next time. Its just not simple draw, backtension, click. But what we need is that step also anolgy or how to imagine it 😁
@@sumahan5859 draw, anchor ,transfer , align and achieve holding , then contract rhomboid , witch only work if the trapezius is at resting position and not under back tension like many belive
In my case I know that I am at full draw when I feel that the bow is giving in a bit at the back wall on the string stop. This is on a compound bow. If I made a shot this way 90 % of the time it will be accurate and also it feels like the arrow is also flying faster. I mean that the time of the noise of the arrow lunch and arrow noise on impact gets shorter. I do use the rubber band for practice and warm up . There is something that I would like to ask. I use to keep the bow not a full draw weight and I did notice that at that time I was shooting less accurate I believe that the lack of resistance once allowing me to execute poor shot simply because I was able to do it with out a proper Technic. Also I don't use the hand guard this helped me to quickly learn about 45 % and elbow rotation because every time I made a mistake the bow string was slapping me hard in the hand after few bruises I became very aware about my hand position. I believe that people need to practice with maximum weight that they can handle because this simply will force them to improve on Technic because the bow can be drawn and hold only when you execute the move correctly.
would this mean the string should be closer to the body? maybe touching my chest guard? cause i do have a problem with a jerky motion after clicker clicks. maybe i am not fully at full draw which makes expansion not that smooth all the time. i am also doing your clicker drill to fix this.
Getting into better alignment, and reaching real full draw does often mean that the string is closer to the chest guard :) The key is making sure your posture is good so it doesn't interfere too much, easier said than done I know, but worth the effort :)
does the body geometry actually effect the draw elbow position , is it possible that a person could get the shoulder alignment but not exactly draw elbow behind the arrow line( or maybe i misunderstood elbow(elbow tip, the bone) inline with the arrow)? Great vid ,thank you very much
Great point - it is possible that it might vary due to body proportions, particularly with the ratio of upper/lower arm length. But even with these variations about 95% of archers can technically achieve the position, and it's just a case of skill learning, flexibility, and anchor/head position which is actually the cause of not having the elbow far around enough.
I had been taught (insisted upon, actually) that you could either do the 'move your elbow around your body' like you explained, or you could either also move your elbow up or down in order to achieve your full draw and release. Moving the elbow either up or down never made much sense: I mean, you maintain a great posture throughout the shot cycle, only to in the end disarrange it all. I do however have some trouble going "all the way through" with moving my elbow round my body.
I'll cover this more in the future - there's some more detail on this in the Stance and Posture section on the website here: www.onlinearcheryacademy.com/recurve-archery-technique-stance-posture/
It is! It's actually ok to have a little contact, as long as it's not too deep and it doesn't interfere with the string clearance - this is why I've modified my chest guard to make it more smooth :)
Without wearing a chest guard (not got one) i find that if the string is lightly (i mean very lightly) brushing against my nipple with a deep breath then my position, stance, alignment ,and shot sequence is better and the arrows end up pretty well grouped at 50m having only been shooting once a week for less than a year.
Hi Ashe, brilliant explanation as always. Is it imperative to execute all the steps in your shot sequence to be able to achieve real full draw or transfer as some call it. Or can it still be achieved if one or two steps are missed or not performed correctly. For example, if I drill a pilot hole it will be easy to put the screw into a piece of wood. Or is it something like, if I don't drill a pilot hole I could still probably get the screw in but it will be much harder and will probably go off centre. Thanks John
Great question John! Technically no, you don't have to do them, think of them instead as increasing the probability of you getting to real full draw and ultimately achieving a good release. On this point, it's actually worth noting that all these steps are actually just 'made up' by humans - they're there to attempt to label and make a structure to the shot and make it easier to learn, but it's not an absolute hard rule. In my structure of the shot that's why I keep it to 6 general steps, to hopefully solidify it into an easy, simple process. As an aside, arguably three of the best archers in the world ever (Kim Woo Jin, Im Dong Hyun, Oh Jin-Hyek) don't really have any setup position, but they found the way that works for them and allows them to get the other parts of the shot consistent :)
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy Thanks Ashe. I had a temporary lapse and meltdown a couple of weeks ago when I kept forgetting my shot sequence. I binned it and switched to linear korean style which I thought I was getting the hang of it but then that went pear shaped too. I watched some more of your videos and went back to my old style. I now, finally think I'm getting somewhere. Your videos make a huge difference to the archery community, can't thank you enough.