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How to Fix Scapular Dyskinesis for Climbers (Shoulder Blade "Winging") 

Hooper's Beta
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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Skit
01:09 Context
01:46 Circuit A, Exercise 1
02:27 Circuit A, Exercise 2
03:02 Circuit A, Exercise 3
03:34 Circuit B, Exercise 1
04:23 Circuit B, Exercise 2
05:02 Circuit B, Exercise 3
05:53 When to Perform
06:12 Outro
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 103
INTRODUCTION
If you’re here because you watched our last video on scapular dyskinesis, let us know down in the comments so I know who the homies are! If you did not watch our last video, well… we can still be friends ;).
Now, fixing scapular dyskinesis can seem like a daunting task for your average climber without expert assistance, and while I definitely still recommend you see a professional if you have real concerns, this workout should provide you with a low risk blanket approach getting your scapula and shoulders back on track.
You can of course design your own workout using these charts I’ve created, but not everyone wants to tackle that.
THE WORKOUT
We’re going to do two circuits with three exercises in each.
Circuit 1: 2-3x through
Standing W with scap retraction
Plank Shoulder Taps with Scapular Protraction
Quadruped Shoulder Flexion vs PNF D2 flexion
Circuit 2: 2-3x through
Face pull with overhead press
Push Up PLUS on BOSU
“No Pyramid” serratus flexion (alternate upper cuts or bear hugs)
WHEN TO DO IT
You can perform this once a week to maintain or slowly build healthy shoulders, or twice a week to really up your scapula game if this is a larger issue for you. Do this independent of a climbing day as it’s own workout, or do it after a somewhat light climbing session.
FINAL ADVICE
Keep in mind there are many ways to train the muscles we’re targeting here, but I chose this format to keep things relatively short and simple so as to not discourage anyone. There may be some overlap between exercises in this routine but in this case I’m okay with that. Just remember, there are no perfect workout routines, and a good routine for one person may not be good for someone else.
And, hey, if you like this video consider giving it a thumbs up! And subscribe if you’re feeling extra psyched.
Until next time: Train your friends to compliment your scapulohumeral rhythm while you climb the social hierarchy and ultimately ascend to the top of your scapular kingdom. Aaaand repeat, but this time, make a Netflix series about it.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
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#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #scapulardyskinesis

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14 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 60   
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
10 points to Gryffindor for anyone that spots the typo ;)
@EmileModesitt
@EmileModesitt 2 года назад
It's not a typo, it's a lifestyle
@gregtambo
@gregtambo 2 года назад
I don't know if I want to give 10 points to Gryffindor (or is it Gryffundor? U's and "I"s are basically interchangeable).
@aaronth2796
@aaronth2796 2 года назад
Absolutely love the content and explanations! Such an awesome resource!
@erickrivera440
@erickrivera440 2 года назад
Thanks for showing the back/exercise from different angles. It's so hard to understand what people mean when they say "down and back". It's also helpful when you describe the intent of the movement because it's easier to "get" the mind-body connection. Great video!
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for commenting.
@AVPML
@AVPML 2 года назад
As always thank you for great content and looking for people's health and wellness 🙏
@j.r.2628
@j.r.2628 2 года назад
Great video! I've been suffering from a decently severe case of scapular winging on my right side after a collarbone fracture. The exercises in this video were very similar to the ones prescribed to me by my physical therapist, and therefore helped me further my understanding of the technique involved with the movements, while providing several variations to more accurately target certain muscles. Thank you for your attention to detail in your videos!
@tylervelasquez5639
@tylervelasquez5639 2 года назад
These skits always get me 🤣🤣 So helpful!
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
hah thank you! Yeah, the skits have become an integral part :)
@joji_okami
@joji_okami 2 года назад
I'm pretty sure they are preparing their alternative careers as comedians after they exhaust every possible subject about climbing and training and injuries haha.
@VASE8881
@VASE8881 2 года назад
Godbless you sir. A true national treasure.
@whitestaff1
@whitestaff1 2 года назад
Love the great comedy and info my man ! Im literally not a climber just a jiu jitsu fan but you help always
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
Awesome! Thanks for chiming in
@ezratownsend5025
@ezratownsend5025 2 года назад
This is the most practical and useful scapular dyskinesia exercise video that I have seen on youtube. Great job man. Thank you
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
Thank you!
@teodoratodorova9105
@teodoratodorova9105 Год назад
I really needed this! Thank you very much! It would be awesome if you made something similar for fixing bunions 🙃
@michalvanata
@michalvanata 2 года назад
Awesome video
@kais.6266
@kais.6266 2 года назад
dude, this is great content. Like top notch. Laughing and learning, you got my attention.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
Glad you enjoyed! Thanks for the comment.
@Paradyme88
@Paradyme88 2 года назад
Thank you for this video! This targets my issue! Hopefully with these workouts I can get my scapulas back on track and send that V0.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
You got this! :)
@paulgranada7203
@paulgranada7203 2 года назад
Yeah, that's the one I was looking for!! I've struggled with my posture for years and, even if I've improved a lot in my everyday life, I tend to hunch a lot when climbing, so I'm going to give this a good try, thanks a lot!! :) Ps: could I combine this routine wiht your other "once a week to avoid injuries" routine?
@SethPierceClimbing
@SethPierceClimbing 2 года назад
All I want from Hooper is a perfect scapula. ☺️ Love all your information and you got good comedy.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
Thanks, Seth! Perfect scapulas ftw!!
@mahyarzohory3884
@mahyarzohory3884 Год назад
Very very good ☺️
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Год назад
Thank you 😊
@runarflugstad7247
@runarflugstad7247 Год назад
Takk!
@MrAlexLowen
@MrAlexLowen Год назад
Thank you
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta Год назад
Welcome!
@crispycrimps865
@crispycrimps865 2 года назад
This helped me finally send my v0+ proj thanks!
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
Crushing it!!
@cyan0xide
@cyan0xide 18 дней назад
not a climber but i think i over did the weighted pull/chin ups and pendley rows and now im here
@witheredmedia
@witheredmedia 2 года назад
can you talk about scapholunate ligament recovery?
@juliaramstedt9095
@juliaramstedt9095 2 года назад
Thanks so much for the great content! :) I have a question, I've injured my ACL, which I'm seeing a physiotherapist for. Wondering when after an ACL injury it might be possible to start doing some easy climbing again. What moves to maybe be extra careful with.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
Typically you want to gain clearance from your PT and your surgeon to start climbing again but your best bet to return is top roping. You want to avoid high stepping, or even moderately high stepping, and aggressive heel hooks. You'll of course eventually return to doing that, but high steps with weight over the leg, and stepping up would be far down the road.
@joshk4372
@joshk4372 7 месяцев назад
I was thinking of adding this as a warmup before I lift or climb. I know you said not to, but is it a terrible idea? The intensity is a small fraction of either my weight or bouldering session, and without any progressive overload, I don't see why this needs to be its own workout.
@KnueppelkarlLP
@KnueppelkarlLP Год назад
At exercise A3 and B1 my shoulder snaps at a certain height. Should I get high enough to let it snap (carefully) or better just go as high as possible without snapping? Is "snapping" while doing exercises generally bad and should I avoid it or let it snap really slowly and carefully?
@p.trrr1
@p.trrr1 Год назад
I have a snapping scapula syndrome which is super irritating. What should I do?
@nbka8rs
@nbka8rs 2 года назад
algogogo
@legitqs4098
@legitqs4098 2 года назад
A video about therapy/exercises for SLAP lesions please. Is it that uncommon?
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
Not uncommon, but will depend on severity. Some people may have mild/minimal symptoms, and some people may need surgery to correct their issues. If you have been diagnosed with a SLAP lesion, you should have a follow up with an orthopedic physician/surgery to discuss your options.
@legitqs4098
@legitqs4098 2 года назад
@@HoopersBeta thanks! I'm just very insecure how severe it is. My radiologist didn't see any problems, but my orthopedist did. But he suggested a surgery, even though the pain is manageable
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
That's fair! There are many factors to consider when looking at surgery. Are your symptoms manageable, do you have someone to help with strengthening / stabilizing the shoulder, do you feel like the shoulder is stable, is it limiting your sport participation or function, etc. Imaging does not always represent how you may feel and function and that is just as important when determining surgical need or not. If you are considering surgery, I would recommend just getting a second opinion and asking why they think it's necessary.
@rivkihever2929
@rivkihever2929 6 месяцев назад
What type and size of resistance bands are recommended for this?
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 6 месяцев назад
That will vary from individual to individual. Best to treat bands like weights. Start with a lower resistance and work your way up. So you'll likely need a set of bands.
@rivkihever2929
@rivkihever2929 6 месяцев назад
@@HoopersBeta what length of band do you use in the video?
@je4nette
@je4nette 2 года назад
When I keep my arms down, straight against my torso, only the lower part of the scapula wings out on my right side. On the left side, my scapula rests correctly against my back. What might this be?
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
Could be multiple things, unfortunately. Could just be a tighter pec minor on the right, or a tiny curvature in the spine creating the difference at rest. Likely the former, though.
@je4nette
@je4nette 2 года назад
@@HoopersBeta thank you 🙏 I'll try stretching my pecs more.
@LovelyLena070
@LovelyLena070 2 года назад
Overly utilizing scapular retraction does not help to solve dyskinesis, I tried for a year and my issues did not go away and in fact may have gotten worse. Winging usually occurs because the scapula is already downwardly rotated and anteriorly tilted. Poor postural habits and trigger point formation in the muscles attached to the shoulder must be addressed first, and then the corret brain to body/muscle connections can be made. Nothing inherently wrong with these excercises, but they are probably not going to solve shoulder instability in most cases.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
Thanks for commenting! You're correct! Pure scapular retraction won't solve all the issues. Fortunately, the exercises chosen were done so not to simply overly utilize scap retraction, but rather they were specifically chosen to improve proper retraction while improving upward rotation and help correct anterior tilting of the scapula, while also creating strength in the lower fibers of the serratus anterior to combat the inferior angle or medial border issues :) Poor postural habits definitely can make matters worse, but are just a part of the equation (posture, strength, mobility, and awareness).
@zxc1273
@zxc1273 2 года назад
@Lena M did you manage to solve this somehow?
@TheXeeman
@TheXeeman 2 года назад
Im always curious, back in the cave men days, we don’t have any sort of equipment to train all these things. How did we get away with it? Is stuff like this (training/rehab/targeted exercise) inherently unnatural then?
@MeltedMask
@MeltedMask 2 года назад
In those days you move from birth to death. There were no long break from movement. Throw a spear, run a dear. Swim in puddle, row at river. Walk a mile to the mountain sky. In otherhand, todays life, everyone subtitute own muscles with casoline and over protecting gear. And maybe school systems kills ones enjoyment for movement . After years of unbalanced workload, it isn't miracle that one have problems. Especially back muscles are under used in modern society.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
I don’t think people were too concerned about the movement of their scapulas back in those days haha! The weak died out, the strong/smart/adaptable survived. -Emile
@smau990
@smau990 Год назад
Watched this few times, then stumbled on this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-alVBqOZe4H0.html needless to say I have problems in the area and now I'm confused.
@MiguelClimbs
@MiguelClimbs 2 года назад
Thanks for the beta boys! PS. Hooper is hella weak.
@HoopersBeta
@HoopersBeta 2 года назад
I tell him all the time ;) -Emile
@Tandycakes159
@Tandycakes159 2 года назад
Yea "scapular winging" isnt a thing, unfollowed.
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