This was a really helpful review compared to a few others I found. Appreciate the overview! Do you regret not getting the cast iron wings or the steel wings fine?
Sawstop PCS is not a bigger footprint then your Contractor. Your motor hangs out the back another 12 inches or more. You might want to add to cast iron wings, that would dampen vibrations more
That’s a great point, I think I assumed that it would be a lot tougher to move around. Do you have a mobile base? I don’t seem to have any issues with vibration
I've had one for 3 years. bought extensions, now have router lift etc. but big mistake because i could have afforded to go up a step to a cabinet sawtop. my main dislike is the extremely lousy dust collection on the contractor saw. I am still fighting this and spending money. get a cabinet saw with bottom enclosed. I do love saw stop and would buy one again.
I’m concerned about accuracy and precision. Is the cast iron top truly flat? Also extension wings? How is it to adjust the blade alignment with the trunions?
I totally understand, everything on mine is incredibly level. I have only had to make minor tweaks to the blade alignment. Mine was pretty close out of the box. I think any table saw will need some alignment from time to time.
Something to keep in mind is that if you turn off the saw it does take time for the blade to stop, and the brake WILL NOT FUNCTION if you touch the blade while it's spinning down. That said, I've had mine for over 3 years, and I love it! They overhead dust collector is okay, best feature is it covers the blade and makes it harder to accidentally hit the blade. Another fantastic accessory is the JessEm Clear-cut Stock Guide. Just can't say enough about how great they are in combination with that quality fence!
The brake will trigger if you touch the blade as it's spinning down. It might not retract below the surface though, because it uses the energy in the spinning blade to do that.
I literally just finished putting mine together. Don't ask me how but I was able to get the main body onto the base by "angling" it out of the box with only minimal lifting. I wouldn't recommend it because it was a bit precarious. Part of me wishes I invested in the cast iron wings, but I had to keep the cost down somewhat. And I don't think it's absolutely necessary for my needs. But otherwise, the T-Glide Fence system was a must. I was surprised how dead-on accurate it was right out of the box. And I love the mobile base, especially since I have a tight garage and will need to tuck it away when not in use. I don't intend to ever have that brake fire. But I am glad to know it's there.
Wow, that method seems very creative. Glad it worked out for you! The nice thing is you can always order the cast iron wings if you want to upgrade in the future.
I have a 20 amps outlet but it share some like my dust right. I am wondering if it can hold the power for both or need a specific outlet for the sawstop? Thank you nice video
I would suggest having them on separate circuits. If you are not able to, you could try something like this to offset when the collector turns on compared to when the saw does, but think they are built for smaller vacuum systems. amzn.to/3eegCjI I personally have my dust right on a separate 20 amp circuit then my saw.
Let me just say, if you get hit with the blade on a running table saw and you don’t lose anything like myself, you might find that there is still nerve damage after the fact. Just be aware.
I haven't had any issues so far with the power. My most recent project working with some 2" thick Hard Maple and it cuts it like butter. I have been using this blade and really like it so far amzn.to/32po5a6 Hope that helps.
Evidently, there is a feature where you can turn off the braking feature and test cut a scrap of "questionable" wood (pressure treated, etc) and the saw will tell you if it would have been activated. I wonder if that's available on the contractor saw or just the higher priced models. Also, how thick have you cut and how did the 1.5hp motor handle it?
Ah, gotcha. Yes, there is the override feature. I have used it a few times when I know the wood is extra wet or when there is potential for metal to be present in the wood. It is very helpful when I don't want to trigger the break system. In regards to the motor capabilities, I have cut up to 2.5" thick hardwoods with no issue at all. I have been very impressed by the 1.5hp motor.
So there is no issues moving the saw on the mobile base with the 36" table extension? I know you mentioned that in the video but just wanted to confirm.
Thanks for watching. no, I typically make the extension legs a little shorter before I move the table. But, there is no issue even a few years after this review.
I bought my fully loaded (premium fence, cast iron wings, wheel kit) in 2015 and have no regrets. I've been wood working for almost 60 years and I would rate this saw tops. Yes, it is somewhat costly but the performance together with the safety feature make it worth the investment.
Great review! I did not know that the brake could be triggered with moist wood. That’s disappointing as many of my projects involve recently purchased pressure treated wood. Also, the dust collection on the contractor series is new to me also. I may look at the cabinet saw but don’t have 240v service in the garage for a 3hp motor. I’m glad I ran across your review. All the best!
I just got this same saw and configuration. I was interested in the dust collection add-on but I thought I read it didn’t work if you were using the mobile base. Have you had any issues with it and the mobile base? Because I totally agree the dust collection access is awkward without it.
It’s pretty great at cutting 8/4 (2”) hardwood without issue. Honestly, it’s super easy to do the bypass mode. I have only triggered it with wet wood one time in almost 4 years of owning it
Hhhm, this is the blade I am using amzn.to/3qqMqck I don’t see anywhere that it’s Anti-kickback. Maybe I am missing it. Also, why would sawstop say that? I haven’t seen that info and would love to know more :)
Thanks for the video. I'm looking at a SawStop right now, so I appreciate anything I can find. Let me just encourage you to do less editing on the video. You had it cut up so much it seemed like every couple of sentences ended in a cut and jump to where you re-shot it or cut the video down. I had to quit watching and only listen because it is so choppy. Take some extra time and write down what you want to say. If you mess it up, just redo that section. That will help the watch-ability. Thanks again for the information.
I appreciate your feedback, I am defiantly learning as I am going. To be honest a lot of the cuts were trying to match a cool style I have seen that helps cut out all the dead space to get you as much content as possible in as short of a video as possible. But, I can see how that is distracting. thanks again, I will take your feedback into account with future videos.
One of the best reviews I’ve ever seen, right to the point & no BS with lots of useful information. Thank you! For that! Only thing not mentioned but kinda inferred, could you of NOT used the saw if you just replaced the blade? Does it require the brake mechanism installed to even turn on? Think this is the model I would get but will ask that question before purchasing. Thank you! GB
Thanks so much, I really appreciate the feedback. Correct, as far as I know there is no way to turn on the saw without a brake in place. You can however override the brake while in place, but you would have to do this each time you turn the blade on.
Just pulled the trigger two days ago, from Rockler, but it says shipping date is May 24,2021, how long is the waiting period till it reaches the destination? I’m getting impatient though…✌🏼🙏🏼
So exciting! I have gotten a few items from Rockler, but mostly small stuff. I believe for the larger items they will call you once it has arrived at the warehouse and schedule a delivery window for a day or 2 later. Honestly, everything still seems way slower then before the pandemic. But, hopefully you will get it soon!
Anyone know if a used saw stop is available. Had a hick back and got three fingers on my left damaged. My fault for stupidity. Tried to keep the kick back from hitting me. (Now after thinking about the problem I should have let it hit me. It still hit my walker but that's but that's my issue. Back to the issue does any one know of a used sawstop? Thanks for the help.
Sorry to hear about your incident, hope your fingers heal quickly. Unfortunately, I don't think a SawStops will prevent kickback. However, I would suggest getting this Pushblock from MicroJig that helps prevent kickback no matter what type of table saw you are operating: amzn.to/3u4xeSo
Very well done, and I have subscribed. This may sound like a really crazy question, but trust I am an experienced woodworker😊. It is time to upgrade my table saw. My shop is in my garage. So mobility is important. A contractor or job site saw built into a rolling table seems like the absolute best option for me - the benefit of a good quality saw (eg the ever-popular 10” DeWalt), plus extra space to support larger pieces, plus mobility. So my question - can I use the higher quality SawStop but mount it into a rolling, larger table? Said differently, does it require the legs, or could I rest it on a larger table I build for it? Thank you! Maybe with the extension it help left to right, but building it into a table would also help with longer rips, and give even more space as a work surface when not used as a saw.
Thanks for watching. As far as I can tell, there is nothing special about the legs on my version. However, the motor does stick out the back of the table and moves around depending on the depth of the blade. Over all, I think it could work. But, obviously haven’t tried it myself. I do move mine all the time around my shop on the wheels and it is very easy.
@@beardedspruce has anyone done tests seeing how many times the brake can be tripped before it starts damaging other parts besides the blade and brake? Ie structure integrity
I bought this saw. Have had it for a few years. I regret not spending the extra money and just getting the model up. 2 reasons: first, dust. The CNS has terrible underside dust collection. 2. Adjustability. If you're blade goes out of square, it's near impossible to fix. Also, not a biggie but just adds to the annoyance, when you lower the blade it makes a whining noise. Saying all that, I believe the CNS cuts just as well as the higher end models fence being equal.
I agree there has been a few times i have wondered if I should have bought the model up. Although, I really enjoy the CNS version a ton. Have you tried the Dust Collection panel? it was a game changer for me amzn.to/44prYue
@@beardedspruce Bought that with the saw. It collects 2/3rds of the dust that falls out from the bottom. I think only a cabinet fixes the remaining 1/3rd issue, so gonna need to fab something up -maybe you'd do a "I made this" video. Also wanted to share I reached out to SawStop asking for adjustment instructions. They replied promptly with a diagram. Note: there is a set screw on the rear trunnion bracket that needs to be removed -no one on the internet mentions this.
In your video you mentioned a moisture meter? What type of meter, and what type of readings would you look for to indicate you would put the saw in bypass mode? Thanks for the honest video btw; can sometimes be hard to trust the opinion when you know it’s being paid for by the company
I am glad you enjoyed my review. I have an older version of this one amzn.to/3hn181T After a reading through a bunch of different blogs I figured out that about 15% moisture is the threshold for the sawstop. Unfortunately, there is not a ton of info out there that gives a concrete number. So, I test the wood anytime I have any doubt. Honestly, the only time it has triggered on me for moisture is with treated wood that was very wet. I would venture to guess that most wood that gets to the lumber yard that isn't treated should be fine. The other thing to keep an eye out for is any nails or staples in the wood. Hope this helps!
this was a great video and im thinking about getting one,,i bought the one above it pcs and it was so very heavy,,i took it back today but i think im going to get this one,,home depot sells it but they dont offer the rail system on it,,,i guess i will have to look elsewhere for that,,,i was told you could buy it directly frrom saw stop,,but everytime i go there it refers me to online dealer and they dont show the rails as an after market purchase,,,,are the stock rails one piece,,
Thanks for watching! Do you by chance have a Rockler near by? If so, I would contact them and they can probably order whatever you are looking for. They are always great to work with. You could also contact SawStop and ask them how to get exactly what you want. I bought mine on Amazon, but looks like that one is out of stock at the moment.
Glad you enjoyed the review! I have this one and absolutely love it: www.rockler.com/canister-filter-for-rockler-1250-cfm-wall-mount-dust-collector?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&PL&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnaeNBhCUARIsABEee8UQ6X4Q0iSljlyBjm2TJLSIPqTI-4x7J-iju06c6b-L7oisqucSHbgaAgc1EALw_wcB
i have the same saw and the brake cartiage activated and when i replaced it and set the saw with a new cartridge and turned it on it would not start,,called saw stop and they sent me a whole new switch box,,,still wont start,,,personallity i would not trade the cheapest saw for this overrated piece of junk!!!!!
@@beardedspruce saw stop is great as far as their customer service,,they senf me the switch box which was not the problem ,,then sent me the 3 wire compont that runs to the motor which was not the problem and sent me a new brake cartridge which was the problem,,,,,it was bad,,,can you believe it,,i hope no one has this problem but if they do i would try replacing the new brake cartridge,,,it might be defective,,
Thanks for the video Ben. I'm struggling to decide between contractor and pcs saws. You mentioned size as a factor in your decision. Is the contractor with 36 inch t glide smaller than pcs with same? I thought they would be the same size
I think I was referring to if you don’t get the extension on the contractor saw. So, you have the option of keeping it smaller. Over all, I don’t think you can go wrong with the pcs version. Especially if you are cutting a lot of hard woods.
The contractor might have more depth than the pcs because the motor be hanging out the back like junk in the trunk. I would get pcs 36", and if you need to cut full sheets get a tracksaw as its safer than a full sheet kickback to the melon.
nice video. I am curious about your thought on getting/ not getting the cast iron wings? have you cut much in the way of sheet goods with this saw, and are the stamped wings an issue for you?
I don’t mind the stamped wings so far. But, no I have not cut any metal sheet goods. I will say, you could do it with the bypass mode on. But, you would have to be very diligent to remember each time.
What is your go-too for dust collection with the Sawstop? I noticed you have the Rockler Dust Rite and the Dust Deputy. Can the Dust Deputy keep up, or is the Dust Rite the best option?
I typically use the Dust Right 650 (which I will review soon). I use this mostly out of connivence since my Dust Deputy is typically connected to one of my smaller tools (palm sander, router table, and even my miter saw). I think you could use the Dust Deputy, you would just have to empty it quite often. You would also have a larger chance with clogging since the hose is so much smaller.
Great video with normal person comments. I kept bouncing between the contractor and professional model as well, but believe the contractor is the way to go for me.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! I upgraded to the T-glide fence, I highly suggest doing this. It works like a dream. If you upgrade to the 36” table extension it will enclose this fence upgrade.
Thanks for watching. From the research I have done, I think every saw will have some residual saw dust even with the collection system. The other accessories I mention in the video might solve for that though.
Thanks for watching. In short, I am not 100% sure. There is so much force stoping the blade, I haven't been able to rip it off of the break. I think if you could get it off, you might damage it by doing so. So, in a way you should just plan on replacing the blade as well. Hope this helps
Mine is right at 35.5” but, there are adjustable/leveling feet that if I remember correctly, I used to raise mine a bit... looks like you could go down to 35” and up to about 36”
@@beardedspruce It's a vibration test where you stand nickels on their edges on the tabletop of the saw, then you turn on the saw and run material through it. If the nickels don't fall over or move, then vibration is exceptionally low (which is obviously what you want). Here's a quick video of a test, although they didn't run any material through: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yq5VyIUrsow.html
Thank you for nice review. Looking for an upgrade to my BOSCH GTS10XC.. Do you find it accurate mechanically? Is it precise for making fine adjustments of the fence, blade angle etc?
I do find it very accurate, you can fine tune pretty much everything on the tool. glad my review helped, let me know if you run into any other questions.
I believe so, I have only thrown mine once. It gets pretty trashed by the blade. I think the blade could be salvaged if you can manage to dig it out of the brake.
@@juanmendoza7487 I would say, if that is the primary reason you are getting this saw for, the pro version might be a better option. But, as long as you are ok to take your time and let the blade to the work. You are good to go with this guy!
@@beardedspruce Yeah I’m in the process of getting a saw stop…I’ve always wanted the contractor version…But I heard from another you tuber that has the contractor version, that it has a little trouble cutting hard woods if you cut fast and if you don’t have a good saw…I have enough money saved to buy either the 1.75 or the 3 horsepower versions…I cut 50/50 on soft and hard woods…Still debating lol
@@juanmendoza7487 makes sense. A big pro to getting the one I bought was the flexibility of being able to move it around the shop if I need to get my car in. If you have the budget and the room, I don't think you can go wrong with the more powerful version. I don't think I have ever heard anyone regret getting the better tool!
great review. I always wondered what the contractor saw was like considering not many people buy them. They've usually gone for the cabinet style. One thing I will say about the cartridges and safety. I agree that it does prevent hospital bills, but I disagree that it is a good measure to instill better safety practices mainly because while you're working, your mind gets lazier. It knows that you have a safety, so who cares if you touch the blade. I feel as though you are much more cautious not having the safety than having it. for the 2100 you spent, I'd rather go with an F2 laguna. doesn't have the safety of the brake, but it is of a much higher quality for about 1900.
Thanks for watching. While I totally agree that there are better saws out there for the money. Unfortunately, I have known to many people that have lost part of their hand. I understand what you are saying in reference to 'lazier', but in my experience I have been much more diligent in thinking about safety with this saw vs my last one.
I have spoken to a couple of experience professionals who have SawStops and have triggered them when one had a slip due to unexpected child ingress and the other was tired at end of day. Also spoken to couple who did not have them .. or a couple of fingers..
There are a ton of people like your self and I had the same thought. But, unfortunately there are a ton of injuries every day using table saws. I have a close friend that lost 3 of his digits last fall and will never be the same because of it. IMO it is worth the extra money if it saves someone just one time in life. Either way, super glad to hear you have had such an amazing time in the hobby!
The powermatic saw looks pretty awesome as well, that yellow color is timeless. I did use the gauge once, to test it out and it seems pretty good for a stock gauge. If I used it a lot I would probably upgrade to something like this amzn.to/34jC6Hp or add an extension to it. But, I suspect that might be the case for most saws at this level.
….bought my Powermatic 66 in 1994…27 years of pleasure (and I still have my fingers!). That said, I ain’t getting any younger and have been considering a SawStop. I dunno, tho, maybe in 5 years…lol.
