Just re-subscribed (not sure what happened there). I like the destruction of the week segment. Thanks for sharing the view from your neck of the woods (garage).
@@Ishiku__aka_xchoibitschibihil I now watch most RU-vid videos at 2x speed because of this. Doing this also allows me to take in more information in less time.
I remember one situation when my friend basically floored his car literally less than a second after the engine got to idle, it was way below freezing. I cried myself to sleep that night.
We had a neighbor who bought old Hertz rent a cars and he would do that in the winter. After about the 2nd or 3rd season of that , she was tired and you'd hear the rods chattering nicely upon startups. Haha I was like 8, didn't know anything about engines and it would make me cringe 😂
I had a volkswagen rabbit I rolled it , drove it a year after, below zero night shift, I'd go to parking lot dead rev it tell windows clean, people would scatter
I've been operating diesel engines in Canada for most of my life. Typically I wait for the oil pressure to change ( 2min approx) then just drive away gently until the temp gauge starts coming up. You confirmed my method. Thanks bro.
@@grasscutter88 Oil drains back to the oil pan when the engine is off. When it is really cold out and the oil is the consistency of honey or even peanut butter it takes a while for the oil pump to suck it up and pump it through the engine. It could be well over a minute if it is like -40 degrees out. So on an older vehicle with an actual reliable oil pressure gauge waiting to increase engine speed above idle until it moves form zero to normal is a really good idea. These days most gauges in cars and light trucks are more like fancy idiot gauges that mostly read normal all of the time unless something is really wrong, so it may not be as reliable of a method.
My wife can turn the key, release the E brake, put it in reverse and back out completely from the garage before the 8th cylinder has fired. You can tell them tell your blue in the face. They just don't understand or care !
@Hello Newman I didn't say I agreed. My wife is the one who moves the car before the last cylinder fires. Now it uses a quart and a half between oil changes.
@Hello Newman I'm not. She's nice .Doesn't have any vices is a really good cook. And she's still pretty although she could stop a clock when she was younger. But I just can't get her to let the car warm up a little I guess it makes her feel rebellious.🤣
I live in Canada. I as a rule fire the truck up , idle for about 3-4 minutes then bump up to 1000 rpm until water temp is at least 100. Then off I go. Also during shut down I run at idle with fan on for about 5 minutes until it’s sufficiently cooled down to a little below 180. I’ve ran this truck for 20 years ( N14) and it’s oil samples are still great.
I used to run a soil compactor with a 2 stroke V-16 Detroit Diesel. Two V-8 blocks bolted together end to end with a single crankshaft. Two separate superchargers. Those old Jimmy's liked to be run wide open throttle and that rig would wake the dead two towns away, Lol!
I start the engine then wait a minute the put in gear and run at just above idle for a mile then can run at a little higher rpms for the next mile , then I am good to go .
Idling before driving is simply to get the oil circulating through the turbo and other engine parts in newer diesels. I have a VW TDI and they say 30 seconds to a minute of idling and then just drive it. Obviously don’t be running 23lbs of boost through the ol girl until she’s up to temp but just regular driving a cold diesel is actually healthier for them than slow warm ups.
This is one of the biggest benefits of electronic controls. It limits fuel rates and rpms when coolant and oil temps are low. It also in many cases raises rpm to help aid in warm up and maintaining temperature. Many of mechanical engines have been damaged or ruined by bad habits. I also a big fan of synthetic oils especially a 5w40 in the winter months. It really shows when starting in sub zero temperatures. I really enjoy these videos thanks
My motor loves the -5 and a cold start, i hold the pedal to the floor right when it starts . A little red line for a good time ! It's lasted all of 580 miles !
Ive been an engineer for longer than this guy has been alive (45 years ) he is only half right it is Very important to cool an engine down properly too my cat 3406 has done 2.9 million because it is always warmed up and cooled down properly and serviced properly and althow a bit tired now it is still working hard
I have also had a couple old truckers and heavy equipment guys tell me "once it's running, don't shut it off until the end of day". These guys had million miles engines. Worked them hard, but maintained well.
Yeahhhh those million miles engines also have expensive fine filtration bypass filters and get lots of oil changes, plus they are usually mated to a lot of gears which means no need for 3k rpm
And those old guys never had to deal with crappy LSD and DPF... amd they all put idle at 1000 to 1100 rpm at idle. Keeps cylinder wash low and amd turbo cleaner.
A friend of mine who was a factory trained Mercedes tech from Germany and was part of the extensive research and design of the w123 chassis and OM617 engine said that their findings were that a 2-4 minute idle and then gentle driving until up to operating temperature proved to have the least amount of engine wear during the warmup phase. In a nutshell. The fastest warmup time with the least amount of engine load is what it boils down to. That mindset/advice has proved to be good rules to live by for me. Two other key things he said about those cars is nothing killed the engines faster than a bad thermostat and the engine running two cold and never ever over full the automatic transmission. He never saw one fail from too little fluid in those cars. Great video!
Very true. Any decent one will have a coolant and oil heater, they usually keep it around 100f, so it’s a little better. And for the first 3 or 4 seconds of running it doesn’t have load on it
Mmmm.... interesting ! It's minus 11 F this AM. like it usually is this time of year in my neighborhood, sometimes a lot colder tho. I do plug it in always, I have an oil pan heater and a block heater , I start the truck and let it idle while I roll up the extension cord, then I increase the idle to 1k turn on all the lights and do my walk around( pre trip) then I increase the idle again to 1150 and do my paper work.... I will not stuff it in gear till the coolant temp reaches 110... by then the oil is about the same. Always take it easy at first till temp are up in normal op. range. I got a 1.1 million on the odometer with this ISX 550 and still running strong pulling 102K lbs every day. Knock on wood ! :) Thanks for the vid !
Francis B this routine that you apply is the same that I have done and I believe is an excellent method to getting the longest life out of your rig. I’ve retired now from the trucking industry after 40 years and millions of miles. Good luck be safe and happy trails.
This is one thing I like about the new Cummins in the ram pickups. The exhaust brake kicks on and loads up the engine a bit, keeps the fuel dilution of the oil from getting out of hand.
I've had much better luck starting my diesel in the cold by using only full-synthetic oil. Rotella 5W40 is my year-round choice. It stays thinner in extrememly cold weather, which guarantees easier starting, but somehow retains sufficient thickness after warming up. Regular oil guarantees a very hard if not impossible start-up in very cold weather, i.e., -10*F.
@@dmax06 Picked up 2mpg going from 15w40 motorcraft To 5w40 Rotella T6 full synthetic on 7.3 diesel change every 5k miles Even the BMW gasser idles smoother on startup with it so now I use it in everything even pressure washer
Pretty much spot on. No need for extended warm-up, but you should take a minute or two before you start to load the engine. One thousand rpm for idling is the proper way if you have extended idle time. Also, as you move the vehicle you should remember that the transmission, rear axles, and wheel bearings need to be warmed so their lubricants can come up to temperature.
Yep, I just started doing this last week. Instead of waiting for 15min. I let it warm up a bit for 1-3min then I drive slowly until I get to engine operating temperature.
As a mechanic for 45+ years when ever I notice anyone starting up a gas or diesel engine and drive off immediately whenever I run into that person again I hand them one of my business cards for any repair work they might need anytime to keep me in mind ect-ect. I've gotten allot of repair work this way over the years, in the event some who read this think that I should try to explain to the people that this is wrong and hard on engines, sorry I learned a long time ago, "You-Can't-Fix-Stupid"! You-can-only-make-adjustments [handing them my business card was me making those adjustments]
Here in Canada we get some pretty cold temperatures. I run 0W30 or 40 synthetic oil in all my vehicles, including my farm tractor, generator and snow blower. Even this oil is fairly thick at minus 30C. Here are my tips for winter driving: cover the grille to allow the coolant to warm up faster, use a good block heater, and consider a garage. Even an unheated building is far warmer than outdoors and your vehicle will be much happier!
Please don't forget about having a hot hardworking engine and bringing it down to an idle and letting the heads and cylinders cool down before shutting it off ,,,,, your turbo and head gaskets and everything else will love you much more
Makes sense letting it cool down. Shut the ac off as well, with fan on to remove water and not have ac stink at next start up. How long do you wait before you shut your diesel off? My diesels include: 1981 rabbit 1.6 non turbo diesel 2002 excursion 7.3 turbo diesel 2017 john deere 2032R non turbo diesel
@Al Forster dude dont make an idiot of yourself.If you dont allow an engine to cool down you can ruin it pretty fast.If you have a turbo and you shut it down immediately the turbo will cook the oil and bye bye turbo.A non turbo engine has other issues,shutting it down hot can cause the valves to bend and also bend or crack the cylinder head.Not to mention the head gasket
@@FredFlintstone21 3-4 minutes is enough to circulate the coolant and oil and bring them to a reasonable temperature,that will prevent your valves from bending and possible damage to your cylinder head
Over here in the UK my 28 year old Land Rover 200tdi gets between 3-5 mins warm up every time I start it from cold regardless if I'm in a hurry or not! I then drive it through the gears very slowly until I've done a few miles and I never take it over 65mph, I also let it idle for a min or two when I'm about to shut the engine down. It's covered just over 300,000 miles now and apart from servicing and a head gasket it's never given me any problems.... I also service it every 6 months with good quality oil. Look after your vehicle and your vehicle Will look after you!
Christian Eidsmoe I do tow a trailer with it sometimes at full weight which is 3.5 ton here In the UK.. I do also tow ships mooring ropes and wires with it which probably takes it over the recommended towing weight! I sometimes tow a small X army Sankey trailer into the Welsh mountains but that's about it! Why do you ask?
Christian Eidsmoe well I did Drive lorries or Big rigs if your a yank, over here the maximum weight is 44 ton and my old Land Rover towed my lorry across the yard... mainly because another driver kept saying how shit land rovers were! I had to prove him wrong...
Hey, you don't need to let the engine idle before shutting down in most cars nowadays. The ECU will keep a pomp running to cool off the turbo and prevent the oil from burning up :) !
mandavaler, on my 7.3 when I’m creeping after idling for a few minutes, then when I’m driving, I can feel the motor bog down a little then take off @ no throttle on torque. Then once it’s done that then I’m good. Every motor is different but that’s what I do. When it’s a little warmer above 70 I let it idle a little about a few minutes. Luges oil additive helps reduce dry starts & all that stuff. But I treat it like it doesn’t have it in it. When it’s under 60 I let it idle about 5 minutes then slowly drive off, then once I feel it’s warmed up then I give it a little more go-go, rarely NEVER full throttle. Until about 10 minuets later after warm.
I work in the gas compression industry on cat g3600's. The most important thing on them is that your oil temp never exceeds the jacket water temp in fact the ecm will shut the engine down if there isn't enough differential between the two. Since the pistons are oil cooled they don't want the hotter oil to expand them any larger than the cylinder liners. As a general rule of thumb I never start to drive or load anything until coolant temp is up to 160 degrees. Good videos man it's nice to watch someone with a good head on their shoulders
Cory, I am puzzled by this part, "...oil temp never exceeds the jacket water temp...", because there have been excellent industry tests demonstrating the benefits of engine oil temperatures exceeding 212° F, the primary one being evaporation of water from the oil.
Chad Jessup yessir it does promote evaporation but for the oils we run at temperatures that high the viscosity is usually out of spec also at high temps the oil will break down quicker and when you're talking a 240 gallon oil change we try to squeeze every penny out of it. In certain applications like running on landfill gas they will raise the temperature of the jacket water to promote more evaporation due to the corrosive nature of the gas it will form acids in the crankcase when it mixes with moisture but most all of our gas isn't corrosive so we run lower temps, jacket water at 190 and engine oil at 180. We also run a straight 40w oil to help with oil life as multi viscosity oils (15w-40 etc) have a shorter life comparatively.
Amazing to hear your comment. We run g3600 generator sets and ended up cracking the cylinder liner due to this very fact ....oil temp over Jacket water temp .. Adem alarms but does not shut down engine when this happens
Peter Ronson awesome where are you located? What size of engines are you running? It may be because ours is a different application but it will shut down if oil exceeds water by 7 degrees and will alarm at three degrees,
We've got a pair of g3612's and a g3616 in full cogeneration application. Toronto, Ontario. Ours when it failed cracked the liner scuffed up the piston but fortunately all the parts stayed in the cylinder. I can't remember what finally shut down the engine but it was not the temp differential alarm in the ADEm. My memory is that shutdown has a long timer too...so damage is already done. We added external valves on the JW circuit after the failure to make sure the JW temp stays high and gets up to temp quickly.
I always give the diesels I’ve had a few minutes to warm up before working the engine at full load and Never had any problems with them,I also let the engine idle for a couple of minutes before shutting it down after a hard run to protect the turbo bearings by letting the oil pressure cool it down before shutting off,this practice has served me well over the years never needing a new turbo or any other engine problems.
Shit, now you tell me dude. I've been cold starting and idling my diesel engine for a quarter of an hour, sometimes half an hour, before taking off, thinking I was doing it the world of good. I've been doing that for the last 16 years in the same truck!
I idle my C15 on startup for 10-15 minutes at the minimum everyday. Plug it in on cold months and idle before shutdown at least 5 minutes. Got 1.3 million before I inframed it. I've ran several different CAT engines with the same routine and never had any problems with long idle times.
@@ai_university I really like my C15 engines. I have 3 kenworths with C15 ACERTs and will go out of my way to avoid the ACERT in the future. The single turbo have been way less problematic.
@@countryrebel01 I keep Hearing about this single turbo conversion. What’s the benefits of doing this? Should I wasn’t until my turbos are on their way out to do this ?
@@romanshevy257 Just keep running them until a turbo goes then throw a bigger BW single turbo on. Gets rid of a bunch of extra crap hanging on the motor and will run better. Thats what we've been doing with our ACERT's.
It's a good thing to warm up a diesel engine depending on how cold it is depends on how long you warm it up allowing the oil to get to the turbo and the Pistons to warm up so you don't end up with piston slap and wrist pin knock from not warming up your diesel it's not a bad idea to read the owner's manual you'll find a lot of tips
Its te 15-40 oil that needs to warm up .. not so much the motor. Its same with all lubricants in the truck. You drive slow n easy till all lubricants become flowable. By time you build air pressure.... start driving slow n easy .... this isnt rocket science
When I got my Diesel Oldsmobile Regency, I was told to sit ONE MINU"TE to allow oil distribution and DRIVE. The cabin heat water temperature reached comfort in 2.75 miles.
This video should be mandatory for every new diesel owner, I watch my neighbor turn the key and scream down the street when it’s -20 degrees out in his new Ford.
Every new car owner as well. Any car I drive, if it's first thing in the morning, I always let it warm up. Start it up, rev it to about 1800 RPM after 1 minute, wait until the engine temperature needle gets to about 20%. At that point, the engine's almost done warming up and I can go.
@@markdavid4897 no they do not diesel engines run cooler at idle hence why alot have tarps over the radiator during cold months... Easy to tell just by the exhaust temp... A gasser exhaust at idle will be 700° while a diesel can be 300°....
Here's what I do. in Colorado at 10,000 feet altitude, 1.Start truck 2.Idle for about 1 minute 3.speed up idle to 900-1000rpm for about 3-5 minutes 4.Drive away lightly until coolant is over 180F 5.Drive the Fuck out of that sweet sweet big cam!
Growing up on the family farm, we would always start our tractors up in the fall/winter and idle them for about 4 or 5 minutes and then bump them up to around 1300 to 1500 RPM to speed up the heating process. After about 15 to 20 minutes or so we'd go to work. We put anywhere from 8k-15k hard hours on all of our machines and they never needed a rebuild (short of our cotton picker but it was already heavily used when we bought it).
To make sure that this video is short I'm calling it short short read the darn owners manual of whatever vehicle you own and if you don't have one download one from the dealership come on folks so you don't have to watch the rest of this video read your owner's menu.
I think this applies to all engines. I always warm up my car to get the oil through the engine on my gas car . Unlike my neighbors that jump in and take off while their car sounds like a sewing machine because there is no oil in the valve train yet. Great video
Did you even listen to the video? The pressure may be there but the engine isn’t properly lubricated until the oil warms and thins and begins to flow through the engine at the right rate
Dariusz D concerning gasoline engines: gas engines use an open/closed loop fuel trims. When cold, a gas engine will operate under open loop, meaning the ECU commands the engine to run with the injectors dumping fuel into the combustion chambers in an effort to increase overall operating temperatures. Gasoline is a solvent: so when in open loop, the engine runs extremely rich. If left to idle before the ECU commands the engine to go into closed loop (14.7:1 air fuel ratio), the cylinders will wash down, causing premature wear. If it's super cold, say around 10 below 0, then yes, let it idle, but if not, jump in and take off. The lack of immediate oil pressure in the cold will not negate the loss of lubrication by letting a gas engine idle in open loop. Carburated engines of course are a different story, but with EFI, it's a whole new story.
Getting your oil up to operating temp before stressing the engine is what's most important in warming up a gasoline engine I think we all agree. The best way to do that is to start driving as soon as you start your engine but under very light load conditions until your oil temp is up to its operating range. In the winter it might take 20 or 30 minutes for that to happen just letting it idle. So cold oil combined with rich idle conditions means minimal lubrication. Idling a gas engine for more than a minute will shorten the life of your engine without a doubt. I know this goes against what most of us were taught but if you think about it, it will be obvious to you. Plus if your one of those tree hugging people your catalytic converter will not be able to change CO2 into O2 until it is heated up either. So not only are you damaging your engine warming it up by idling in an evironmentalists eyes you may as well be clubbing baby seals.
Getting your oil up to operating temp before stressing the engine is what's most important in warming up a gasoline engine I think we all agree. The best way to do that is to start driving as soon as you start your engine but under very light load conditions until your oil temp is up to its operating range. In the winter it might take 20 or 30 minutes for that to happen just letting it idle. So cold oil combined with rich idle conditions means minimal lubrication. Idling a gas engine for more than a minute will shorten the life of your engine without a doubt. I know this goes against what most of us were taught but if you think about it, it will be obvious to you. Plus if your one of those tree hugging people your catalytic converter will not be able to change CO2 into O2 until it is heated up either. So not only are you damaging your engine warming it up by idling in an evironmentalists eyes you may as well be clubbing baby seals while your at it.
if driving with a cold engine was good for it then the engine would not have a 180 degree thermostat in it, they would just run at air temp. in real cold you should let it idle for 15 minutes or more before driving and use a light synthetic oil for winter like mobil one. look at test videos for cold oil flow like this one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uQ_vxdO_9nc.html
It would have been good to mention that a piston is 'cam ground' during it's manufacturing process. Meaning it is slightly oval shaped and not perfectly round until it has reached, or nearly reached, operating temperature. A cold piston will have some piston slap on the skirt which can result in piston damage if put under even a light load too soon. A short skirt will suffer more damage than a long skirt. Just something to keep in mind.
The C series cat engine went to a 3 piece piston. The piston head and skirt are separate and held together with the wrist pin. The skirt is built perfectly round and according to cat can be put under full load as soon as it comes off high idle. The old 2 cycle Detroit also used the 3 pice piston. They were well known for standing up to cold weather operation.
There’s no way better to warm up a diesel than to do it quickly so what I like to do is not plug my truck in and then put the shifter in n after I do that I put a rock on the gas pedal and let it accerlate completely then I go inside and eat my breakfast and by the time I come outside to leave my engine is red hot I’ve never had a water vehicle once I started this
Another great video , I would like to see a video like this be mandatory in CDL and heavy equipment schools. The drivers and operators that come out of these schools have no idea how to properly operate the equipment for longevity
@@dickJohnsonpeter I live in Norway and about every winter it gets to 10, but for the most part it's milder than that. I remember not many years ago it was much colder, clmate change might be the cause.
@@FSXgta If your winters in Norway are getting milder you are lucky. Last winter in Wisconsin it was - 20 deg Fahrenheit for like 2 weeks straight and for a couple months the temperatures were often between 0 and 10 degrees F. Also, winter lasted forever and spring didn't really come until may. We have always had long harsh winters but they seem to be getting worse. I don't know if it's climate change or just natural. I have always wanted to go to Norway maybe one day.
@@dickJohnsonpeter I think since you have more land mass around, and some water it's a double effect. Inland usually gets colder, at least in Norway since the Gulf or Golf stream comes in with warmer water from the south. Also water surrounding almost all the coast will increase moisture and effectivly make it feel like twice as cold. Unless it freezes, then it's not that bad. I live close to the Oslofjord and there is a ferry going every 30 minutes and that also stirs some the ice in the winter.
I worked in a NASCAR shop for 7 years. ANYTIME we started a “cold” engine, the oil was heated (to 210 deg) and circulated thru the engine before starting it. Not letting any engine warm at least 3-5 minutes raises the chance of excess bearing wear/ damage. While today’s synthetic oils do flow better at “9 degrees” than older conventional oil, it does not flow that good. 1-2 minutes warm up is not enough in below freezing temperatures. All engine oils have an optimum temperature operating range. Room temperature and colder is not in that range.
JFC. This is not a nascar engine! Anyone who lives in a cold climate (Like Canada!) will have enough common sense to gradually warm the engine after the initial 2 minutes. For example. If hooked to 140,000 pounds, starting my day in Btfk nowhere I would open hood, check the oil and other fluids, do a visual for leaks, check steering, Then I would start engine, do a proper walk around, check tires, etc, come back to the engine area, do another quick visual, close the hood! At this point you can start moving WITH LIGHT THROTTLE INPUT! You do not Jeff Gordon the thing and hit the rev limiter even if at 180 -200 °F, that is just plain stupid! Axles, tires, wheel bearings must be gradually warmed too! At -40°F you could easily rip apart a driveshaft or do unnecessary wear to the tranny or diffs. To make a long story short...This is not grandpas 6v71 using straight 30 weight conventional oil. We run modern electronically controlled engines. :)
@@fredg8199 Sorry but you haven't told me anything I don't already know and many others as well. I figured someone would take my point and miss apply it or twist it into some other meaning. I cannot make my point any simpler and I'm sure the other 99% of readers understand it. BTW, when did they start using pointless ignition? Golly things sure are changing fast! Now where's my dwell meter and timing light?... there's other oil than straight 30W WolfsHead?!
An old trucker taught me to never put it under a load until you see the gauge move. If the gauge doesn't move, don't move the truck. 1000 rpm warmup after initial startup and idle settles down.
Whole heartedly agree with you on an easy warmup on diesels. When our engines are started, let oil pressure build at minimum RPM and after a few minutes, drive off under empty load until close to operating temperature. Never push a cold engine. Up here in Montana, we see -40 F. We use oil pan and block heaters. The newer 5-40 synthetic oils are also a big advantage for sustained cold driving. PS.. you will have to keep your window open and breathe outside until your heater starts throwing heat to keep your windshield from fogging up.... you won't experience that in AZ Haha
I let my engine idle for About 5 minutes when I frist fire up , and then I kicked the RPM up to about 900, Then I do my walk around inspection do other things drink coffee smoke cigs by then 45 minutes is gone, then I'm ready to roll Been doing it for decades and I always will do it , and I do not have no problems
When cold, I always crank the engine over for 10 seconds or so with the fuel pump OFF to prime the engine with oil, so when I turn it to start the bearings aren’t dry......... (perhaps unnecessary, but that’s what I was always told)...
I was always taught with tractors and heavy equipment that if you idle a machine in the winter to bump the throttle a smidge to keep it off the low idle. I was always told it was for oil pressure and flow reasons. Never thought about it much, I just did it. Granted these were mostly older machines also.
So in the end it is a compromise: Get up to operating temperature as soon as possibly, but not in the brutal way. Start the engine, idle for a minute or two, then put some load on the engine to rise the temperature faster by driving away, but under light or moderate load, increase load as the engine temperature goes up. Another thing, modern oil doesn't get thick. SAE 5-40 or 0-40.
+Kristian Jonsson The most widely used oil over here is 15W40 and it is a bit thick when cold. Those wider range multigrade would definitely flow much better in the cold, that is for sure.
Kristian Jonsson..... He is NOT addressing little diesel engines in pickup trucks, cars, etc..... we do NOT use 5-40 or 0-40 oil in Heavy Duty diesel engines in HD trucks.... semis, Off hwy mining trucks, Heavy Equipment, etc, etc. The main focus Of The Video is on heavy-duty diesels in Semis or class 7&8 heavy-duty trucks (all diesel) in general.
Our airforce has engines with 18" bores, a v16. When a power failure occurs the engine is on cycle within 3/4 of a cycle of 60 cycle ac power. The large radar sets need an uninterrupted flow of electricity so the set does not miss a single moment of time it is not online. Can you imagine air starting this huge diesel engine under load on cycle with 60 cycles/sec in 1/60th of a second with air start? It is phenomenal when you think about it even how a generator that large comes online that quickly. I have never heard the workload hours to keep these huge engines ready but it shows diesel engines can start much faster than you can believe.
I tend to watch the oil pressure gauge and bump up the RPMs to match the cold start pressure as it warms up till about 1K RPM. Don’t forget that there’s other components that need to warm up as well like trans,rearends,and hubs. I’ve literally blown out hubcaps before when the vent was too stiff and couldn’t vent properly and I started driving too fast too soon at -20°f. Also cold scoring is a thing.
If you have a "cold Truck" with no air pressure .trucks don't move without air. it will take a few minutes for pressure to build in the tanks . somewhere near 120 psi . the compressor will start cycling from pumping to not pumping to keep from blowing the air tanks. during this time, pre trip the truck for the day. it is required. get it out of the way. this should be enough time for the engine to get to operating temp. about 10 min.. start the truck .get a coffee and doughnut . if it is that cold be weary of Ice in the brake system .
When I start my gasoline vehicle I.mmediately place in reverse. Let engine idle move the vehicle out of the garage. Then engine idle moves the vehicle on the street. No accelerator. I am using that gasoline to head toward my destination and it warms thengine faster than if in Park or Neutral under no load.
Short of it: all engines should be allowed to warm up via idling to cut down on premature wear and also increase certain performance and efficiency based on operating temperature.
Increased wear from lower oil flow. So switch from conventional oil to synthetic and there is better flow especially at low temperatures. Better oil flow from a better flowing oil means less warm-up time for the oil.
Oh lord And there I was thinking what can be worse than A Renault with a Renault Engine so They used Mack V8. I didn't know Macks used Renaults engines.
I work at a bus station here in the UK and its standard practice to rev the balls off the buses to get the air pressure up whether they're warm or stone cold...Then they wonder why all the buses are fucked!
I keep my 2018 ram 2500 6.7 plugged to preheat the engine year round. It’s on a smart plug and scheduled for 4 hours a night. I’ll override that when temps are cold. All I have to do is tell Alexa to turn on the truck. I have a short commute and I hope the preheat helps reduce the time to come to normal temps it certainly doesn’t hurt. The engine is between 125-145 degrees when I start it. It also saves me money, the electricity is cheaper than fuel at high idle for 10 to 15 minutes. This is my first diesel pickup and I’ll never go back to gas. Just my take on it.
I start my 12 Valve and then open my driveway gates. Move truck outside using low gear and idle rpm. Park truck and then close the gates. Drive away normally and don't get on it until coolant temp is normal. If towing heavy it is warmed up until temp registers and then I take it easy for 5 miles until trans and rear end warms up.
This is also a reason I've never understood mower engines starting at full rpm. I add a hand choke to all mine and start them at idle. Then after a min or so just slightly crack the throttle to a high idle for a few min before using. Just doesn't seem right to me to start a non pressurized oiling engine at 36 to 3800rpm
Great video with solid information! A question for you would be if this is transferable in regards to proper warm up for a non commercial diesel such as a 7.3 Powerstroke? Thanks for the great videos!
sure. On mine, I drive it soon after starting, but I just run at low rpm's and slowly. it's not just the engine, but the cold transmission, and rear axle. everything is cold and stiff and need to warm up, it all puts a load on the engine, but there's no way to warm it up other than to drive it, just take it slow and no high rpms for a mile or two
In the winter, I unplug it, start it, increase the rpm. Then i go back inside, where it's warm, and have another cup of coffee or two, before going out and hooking up the trailer.
I'm from Wisconsin been starting up diesel trucks since I was 12 aways taught turn the key wait for the light 3 times crank until start sing abc's hit high idle switch
5:00 diesel fuel washing the cylinders walls is an old myth started by a person who sit behind a desk. Diesel injectors at idle, inject just enough fuel to keep the engine turning. Trucks you see smoking at idle, have old engines with lost compression and or bad injectors. The service tech told my company that same bs about it's bad to idle engines. Myself and some other old drivers made the techs remove the fast idle program. It waste fuel and make the engine run louder for nothing. My old 2016 Freightliner had 435k miles when I turned it in. It didn't use any oil or smoke.
