Signs of Worn Distributor Cap and Rotor 

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I wouldn't be ashamed to admit getting over a hundred thousand miles out of a distributor cap. My motto is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Very well explained. I just had a rotor fail and was wondering what could go wrong with a piece of brass! The answer: the current arcing from rotor to cap and erosion of the center cap button where I touches the rotor. Thanks for helping me understand.

Excellent Video. Very well made and explained. I would think it very helpful for those concerned about saving money and saving the planet. Improving gas milage is a bonus for all. Especially considering how cheap and easy the parts are to replace. Hope this video get # tags for "life hacks" and climate change / sustainability, etc.. . Thanks for the help. I feel better about needing to fix very worn out set. Not only will my car start better, but I get much better milage!

Really well made video, good explanation and side by side comparison. Very much appreciated! thanks

I just changed oem distributor but it last for only a year.. thanks for this video. I might try to change the rotor and cap first

Very well presented breakdown and analysis.

WOW ! YOUR VIDEO IS THE ANSWER TO THE MANY VIDEOS WHICH SHOW HOW THE HONDA'S " IN DISTRIBUTER COIL" HAS THE PROBLEM WHCH IS OVER COME IN YOUR DISTRIBUTER CAP ,

Good advice! I learn a lot!

Excellent, I have a 1987 Toyota Carina which has a very similar distributer cap where the coil is included in the distributer. The car has only covered 86 thousand miles but it is now on its third coil since new ? I have changed spark plug wires once. I see that I should also look at a new distributer cap. Recently I removed all the trunking to the air cleaner. I also cut away about a quarter of the top cover of the air cleaner. My ! what a difference ! I now get 45mpg instead of 29mpg .

Hi thanks for your great video 👍🏻 . If the cover oily effect?

Great video Pictures are super helpful

thank you ~ answered questions another video did not!

My distributor is less than 2 years old. Bought from Autozone. Somehow, I believe the rotor went bad. It looked burnt just as yours did. All the tests I did inside the distributor passed.

Thanks for the vídeo, it was very helpful.

Thank you very much for the video, very helpful. Great experience, thanks for sharing! Best wishes ❤

Thank you kindly for the video, I found it very helpful.

Does the distributor cap have some type of fuse ,,?

All this can be simply refurbish it by clean out connectors and contact points. in some cases those contacts completely burn through and falls off. well then you'll have to replace the parts.

You are good at this.

Amazing video!!!!

Show me how to fix Mitsubishi distributor wiring color coding of cyclone 12valve

Great video - Thanks!

How do I test the cap and rotor

Great teacher. Thanks.

Great video!

Any idea what the rotor's transfer blade is made of? Mine looks almost like a synthetic material. I wonder if there's a measurement to the material height? I can't tell if it's bad or not by sight. I have a 2001 CRV. Cranks but will not start, suddenly. Was running perfectly one day and then this. I grounded spark from each plug end to block and each seems sparky, but I could not verify if it was "blue" but I could see it well in daylight. I've checked all fuel inputs except for injector control signals (but it will not try to start with starter fluid either... tried twice thru throttle body and the duct). No oil or coolant contamination. I don't know what could have gone wrong and why compression would be so bad as to not even try to start and run suddenly. If one cylinder had a bad valve, wouldn't a CRV still try to start and likely start up but just run like crap? When I took distributor cap off the rotor blade was pointing (on center) toward front of car. Not sure if that confirms timing chain has not jumped or not. It's loosening screw was pointing straight backwards. Do you know by chance? I'm ordering a compression tool. I should add that to the tool kit! Thanks and behave!

A little dab of dielectric grease inside and out on the contacts will help prevent corrosion on the aluminum.

When I stick my key in my o5 tL it won't even let my key turn it's like it's the wrong key could this also be the rotor and cap?

Mine is leaking oil would this effect performance

well said. good job!

Did you track any change in fuel efficiency after changing the cap and rotor?

Thank you for this

What’re symptoms. I’m getting random misfire code and also a maf airflow codes but maf is good. Already changed out the plug wire spark plug now I’m down to two fuel injectors or the distributor and rotor.

Would this cause a voltage drop. A running car usually has 14.1 or 4 bolts but I've noticed that mine is dropping 1 volt. So about 13.1 to 13.4. I do have an aftermarket sound system but the voltage drops even when the volume is on 1

Información muy útil, gracias

Thanks so its the rotor and the cap that go bad? Because i pulled out the piece with a computer chip in it also.

I know you say to gauge rotor life by tracking gas mileage but is there an average mileage when the cap and rotor should be preventatively replaced? You say 100,000 is way overdue and 30,000 is too early so you must have a figure that is somewhere in the middle. 40, 50, 60,000?

Good job!

Vefy excellent video can be applied to most dktributer caps it a better design than my Toyota 1987 Carina, which is now on its 3rd ignition coil in 86000 miles.

We Thank you so much

A vacuum advance mechanically changes the inside of the distributor. But what does an electrical connection tell the distributor ? Same thing ? And where does the signal come from ?

thank you

Lmfao I have to say good job explaining the cap amd rotor excellent im subscribed 😎

The 92 Civic is the same as the 99 correct? Can this cause the car to stall when pressing on the accelerator? I just bought a Civic and noticed a lot of dust in the distributor cap and have just started having problems with it stalling.

i really respect your effort my lady .. i love when women can understand this stuffs how it works really

It pays to stay on top of that. I've gotten extremely lazy with age and I let my cap and rotor go to where I couldn't start the vehicle. I ended up bringing it to a garage because I just didn't have time to mess with it myself. Ended up being $1,000. =8O Sure, I coulda complained and forced them to take a shortcut or two, that probably would've shaved off a couple hundred bucks. As it was, tho, I didn't let them change the plugs because I just had them change them not long ago(should've had the cap and rotor done then). I know I could've cut the bill by 2/3 doing it myself, even more if I used cheap parts, but I prefer higher quality parts.

Thank you well done

my 97 honda accord, will crank up and start for about 3 seconds then stall out. it sputters like there is no fuel. I changed the furl filter, and I he regulator but still not working... could it be the idle air control valve, or the distributor cap and rotor? plz help

I love in Pennsylvania!

Sounds like that "I love you, and I miss you" girl 😂

Thanks from Havertown

*I'm the captain now*

Was the car idling rough with the old cap/rotor?

Original Rotor kha melega

Thanks

You sound like Jodi Foster... are you Jodi Foster?😎 Good video and good pictures 👍

What symptoms will you have if you’re distributor cap an rotor is bad. My car when stopped at a light my car would start to die would that have anything to do with it

Very clear sound and well explained. Just curious. How old are you?🙂

Hello, My HONDA CR-V engine auto turn off during drive and not again starting at the same time. I have to take wait about 10-20 mints for again start. I am facing this issue 8 to 10 time per day from last week. I'll subscribe to your channel, do likes, views and share it to others. Can you please help me, how to deal with this issue?

I don't see anything wrong with the "old" one. Just clean it and it's good to go for years. But those things are so dirt cheap that when having problems with spark plug wires you can change the distributor cap and rotor with them if you buy the parts online and already have to pay for shipping.

Lol my dizzy has 248k ive replaced the engine before this lol

Assuming these parts were working when removed, and the new ones were not OEM parts.Then I would recommend you clean the old parts up and leave them in the trunk of your car, in a zip-lock bag, as in my experince you won't get as long a life from the new parts.

Wow❤❤

Carbon tracking causes misfire and corrosive contacts. Clean or replace parts.

Original OEM Parts... ist that an oxymoron, a systematic redundant term?

Are you from 1a auto?

i beleive mine is stock still with 218xxx miles my connections are a nice black color

my 1999 Honda accord v6 vtec caught on fire after changing plugs and wires! i had also cleaned the mass air flow, throttle body and intake with m.a.f.cleaner and sea foam. After five minutes the car died and i seen smoke coming from beneath the hood. After opening the hood i was shocked to see the distributor in flames luckily I was drinking a glass of tea so I immediately poured it on the flames saving my car surely. Is there anyone that can tell me what happened or what i done wrong?

Well ain't that familiar! I drove a 98 dx I got with 192k km on it (its 'round 1.6km to the mile, so ballparkin' it at 130k miles) and it had an original distributor cap and rotor 😂

Help me, Thank you bro😀

Ive got a 91 toyota 3.0 with 540k miles and i think it needs its 6th cap.

so, I guess I should just replace the stock system no matter what xD 113k miles all original

The Philly accent makes me homesick.

👍

I have a Mercedes 560sl has the original rotor and the cap stamped 1987 with 200k miles. Careful cleaning should do the trick. Don't just change good parts for the sake of it!!!

Always use a Honda genuine distributor cap and rotor. These vehicles don't like Aftermarket ignition parts.

kool, my gas mileage has really dropped, lately, also the fuel filter..???

So I'm now even more ashamed than you, my 93 Cherokee have over 300k miles on what I believe must be the original lol. The reason I'm watching this video is because my Jeep don't want to start in cold or raining days, so I went to check the distributor cap, and it doesn't seem to have the center pole anymore, I thought it was weird since I don't think that my Jeep shouldn't start even in normal weather conditions, with a cap like that.

106 000 miles is not bad those work horse can still go another 200 3000 000 miles or even more . If lprperly ook after

If the cap and rotor aren't cracked there is no need to replace them. Just clean of the carbon of the tips in the cap and on the rotor. Check for moisture and if necessary whipe it off. This is just maintenance and this is how you keep your money in your wallet.

Ashamed to admit you have a high mileage vehicle? I’m quite the opposite I brag about lol lol!

problems are, poor gas miliage, poor aceleration, gears wont shift smoothly, eratic idle that can never be fix no matter what, detonation missfire, there is some resistance when you acelerate, noise pinping, and never buy fake brands first thing to do is sparkplugs then cap and rotor last are the cables.

good video. Automobiles no longer use a distributor cap and rotor button. No need for them, each spark plug has its own ignition coil

rookie numbers mine had 300,000 miles on it

I would have cleaned that rotor button outer edge, with a file, or brick wall, and saved some money,

Fuel economy has nothing to with your ignition system. More likey worn injectors or worn piston rings

Come on lady get with it , don't care about what season it is, what does it look like?

Ur wrong my distributor cap is pink

STALE

OOPS! MY ,SHOULD BE THAT THE TOYOTA HAS THE PROBLEM

106 mile weak I have 308k know u could have just sanded the rotor was a waste of money

Not helpful at all smh 😔😔🤬

are you a he or a she???

To long.....😔