Wont Start Diagnostics - Cranks But Won't Start 

Indeed. Sure gets cold in Fairbanks. Will be traveling there next month for the restart of the Iditarod sled dog race.

It does that to people too!

Very good! Worst distributor design ever. Glad you got her back on the road. Blessings

Good advice!

Plug gap is .60!!

Removal of the radio will that cause more problems

Excellent, super glad it was helpful!

God I hope that's what's wrong with mine.

+wyattoneable I don't think it set a code. They can cause misfire codes but in this case it was more of a sudden failure. Watch for extended cranking or when it seems like it's flooded before it finally starts. That may be a sign of pending failure of he distributor cap and rotor. Take it easy.

Hey you need to move to Alaska and I can be your mechanic! Thanks for dropping by

Blame it all on that L.A. haze. Just like the Jimmy Buffet song, 'Come Monday'. It'll be alright‼️

Does it crank?

What have you done lately to help anyone out? No one forced you to hang out here for 13 minutes. Are you a whiner, a wiener, or both?

Troll

Ignition coil. Cap. Rotor. Module. Crank sensor.

What was the problem?

Thank you so much. Blessings!

Thanks sr god bless you it help mi so mach✋

j

?? Are you getting M O R E moisture by doing that ? mine wont start on HUMID days

I had a 99 Chevy Astro I believe it was a 4.3 vortex and there wasn't a recall on the distributor but there was a paper out on it suggesting replacing the distributor because the moisture vents were too small and would get plugged up. The replacement part had larger vents.

@@CMounsieur no it was starting better for me.

I replace my cap an rotor an started up when i had the same issue. I also replaced the fuel filter it was nasty. Or try ur fuel pump

I really appreciate that. Blessings!

Thank you

Yep! Give it a try. Good luck.

You get OE cap and rotor for that price?

Thinking the same on price, OEM is like $60 to $80 depending on how fast you want to get it just for a cap and rotor. Mike B

I got lucky this time. Thanks for watching.

@@ThecardoctorTV I have this same truck same engine wont start right now. Once again I thank you

Nice fix! I just buy the complete new distributors aftermarket. Under $150 but I would consider this fix on roadside no-start or remote area. Thanks for sharing.

+The Car Doctor yea for a customer repair sure replace it. but on my 15 year old car with 213,000 miles??? no way.

Don't tell anyone but I use zip ties for lots of stuff.

+The Car Doctor me too. replace the ignition coil on the Chevy Vortec with an aftermarket coil. The OEM coil is riveted to the mounting bracket. Shoot, I used zipties to affix the new coil to the mounting bracket and since I lost the 5.5mm screws for the ignition control module I had to use ties to secure that too.

Cops use them for hand cuffs.

Same with my 97 S-10. AC/Delco for fuel pump too. Two cheap ones only lasted three months each.

+stuzman52 Yes, still waiting for summer to arrive. Can't wait to get out and do some fishing. Take care.

+zx8401ztv Haha. Yes I think you might be on to something. Thanks for watching.

drill 2 small holes in the back of the distributor..be careful not to drill through any wire port. if you are curious about it...reply back.

Glad to help. Hola

That would be a great video.

Did you check it for spark? It sounds like a spark issue if you got fuel. It's easy to run down the system once you know what's not operating.

@@lesglover6515 yes I do have spark

are y'all needed to run but number 5 and number 7 is misfiring and I still have spark in both of you change out the spark plug from 1 to 7 change 7 to 8 wire .

Module?

@@luvstruck2733 I changed out the spider injectors.

Thank you so much for watching!

Glad it helped. Thanks for dropping by!

Did it fix the problem?

+Twolf125 Thanks, I really appreciate that.

Crank position sensor

Sounds like you are learning a lot of great stuff. Also seems like you have a natural inclination of mechanical ability. Some people probably shouldn't be a mechanic since they lack a natural knack to figure out how things work and when they are broken how to fix them. They can't teach you that part in school. Good job!

Thanks so much Car Dr :)

Yes sir the ECT is called a critical input more than one system needs that info to work correctly it is a thermistor and a lot of the time I think the car will crank no start without that input so nothing burns up

You need three things to make an engine run . Spark [ somewhat properly timed spark] Fuel . Compression. No compression .no start.

Muhammad Ali

Sure. let us know what you come up with

Have you checked fuel pressure?

Have you checked your passlock sensor in the ignition? another question is does it seem to be weather related ice cold or wet humid Bring It On

try distributor cap

Tee Dee I have trouble starting after rain

Spray it with PB Blaster n let it soak... pretty simple... 🤨

+Thomas EXOVCDS as soon as the mosquitoes come out I'll be pushing them in as well...very fast. Before they drain my blood completely.

Thomas EXOVCDS pedroinfante

Thomas EXOVCDS B.B.

Hot Sauce when you hit read more., It will be about a thousand words.. so don't skip over it , I am fairly though. It is worth reading. You didn't not mention make and model of your car. I am referring to my 1999 Ford expedition. I am not an expert but I've had to read up on 1999 Ford Expedition. I'm also a former TV tech. First, safety. I am texting a book. Do not do anything unsafe . There are many people that are doing things on the net that do things unsafe. Read your cars owner manual. Use a Haynes or similar manual These are some possible scenarios and some thoughts. The first answer is: yes , you always have to have dc supply volts for the car to run.. do I think it is electrical.. no. Remember, I'm guessing. When you spray the ether in it, it is burning it quickly and running out of fuel. I'm not sure .. it's possible for it to be a shutdown circuit, but don't think the car has a shutdown circuit for when it is bypassed with ether.. I think you elimated spark with the ether test just guessing.. Btw the Chilton's manual on the car has a good rundown on it . Reply and I'll help you research this properly. I own all three manuals including Haynes. Where I would think your problem is , is fuel. I suspect that there is no fuel on the fuel line.. on my Ford I have a Schrader valve that can put a gauge on.. you can buy or rent gauges at some Auto stores like Auto zone.. I think you should be looking for 25 pounds of pressure.. I would suspect any thing would make the car sputter and try to start. Also carry a napkin..some say cloth, but cloth can get stuck in that dangerous engine. Put it under the Schrader valve and use a small screwdriver or small punch and push the valve in, and gas will come out.. keep the car off for this test.. if you think something is dangerous don't do it Look up Schrader's Valve on you tube. Also realize there are people that don't know what they are doing. I have seen things that I know on the right circumstances could be lethal. Btw I would go and get a noid tester kit , make sure you have descent digital voltmeter .. don't use the non digital type. Don't use the free ones either, If you use an analog acldc voltmeter and accidentally have it set for resistance/ohms and touch a DC or 12 volts, it is trash. You can get a real descent digital voltmeter meter or dvm , at Harbor Freight for about 12 bucks. Now something is causing that fuel to not be there if it's found not to be there. First guess, dc 12 volts not getting to fuel pump.. You can do a quick test, it's not perfect. On my Ford 1999 Expedition, I can have somebody put the key on accessory.. don't try to start it. Now listen to the fuel pump ,, you can also hear it in the driver's seat.. also you should be able to stand several feet away from the fill point and hear the whirl of the fuel pump working.. it will just go for a second or so. If you don't have that.. remember I'm just guessing, you either have no voltage getting to the fuel pump or a bad pump.. and I guess you could have a short.. so let's pursue that . get your owner's manual out.. find out where the fuel pump fuse is.. check for voltage my car should have 12 volts there. If it's is blown fuse.. (oh yes.. use a good test light.sometimes what looks like voltage present could be very decieving,. Invest or rent the right tools. I can explain all this later. I'm texting this.) Well assume if it can light up a test light that it has enough amperage to run the fuel pump control circuit and pump.. btw the actual pump is a little tiny thing in my car.. about three inches.. just thought of this , the check valve goes bad on these assemblies.. get in your car, make sure everything is together. Turn your key to accessory and count to three, 1 2 3. Repeat about 4 times with a couple seconds rest. Listening closely you will hear the fuel pump working. Now start the engine, make sure everything is off of engine clothes, screwdrivers,ect. Now start the car. If it cranks.. my first guess is that the fuel pump has a bad check valve.. it's time to get another fuel pump.. Also your fuel filter should be changed every year or so, it's in your owner's manual. It only takes a few minutes, but is tricky. I recommend getting an estimate on this, after you get it running.. when they go bad they are hard to blow through.. also they can go different ways.. if you decide to do that yourself, make sure you put it in right, should come with instructions.. ok back to troubleshooting.. it's a little unsafe to get under the car.. you have to have good Jack's ect. I do it, but I try to work with the car on the ground. If possible when working on car I try to have my cell phone on and set for 911.. I really suggest limiting under car activity.. but I do it all the time.. you should know your limitations. Suggest having a good mechanic friend help you.... if you don't see the 12 volts going to the fuel pump control, or pump assembly, that's your immediate problem.. Now a lot of cars have a inertia shut off switch.. it is there to cut power to the fuel pump.. in case of an accident. it stops cars from blowing up.. don't ever bypass this.. also btw.on that subject bypassing things can blow out thousands of dollars..don't do it unless you know the circuitry ..I know electronics and have blown whole circuit boards up. Do not try to bypass something.. as a n electronic tech , I did it all the time.. but I knew what was doing.. enough of that. Now let's go back to the fuel pump power supply.. There are relays that go bad.. They would take a long time to tell you about them. I don't know if this will get to you , but I hope this helps. Also some models of my expedition were made with non replaceable relays.. they are soldered in..my guess is that Ford found some valid reasons for doing that.. sometimes for safety and reliability. These boards are 300 or so and often don't fix it. This is part of why bills are upwards of a thousand.. But all said I think you can fix this yourself, with proper tools ect.. There is a fuel pump control module that goes bad on 2002 or so models, it corrodes and falls apart .loses the ground and basically disintegrates, especially on salt roads. It is according to you tube, back the rear bumper. All this info is for my 1999 or so expedition.. get the exact info for your car. I've got work on mine today..

Hot Sauce Yes! Check the codes using a Actron 9690 code tester. It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable. It has code connect to diagnose codes.

fuel pump

@@budford183 not always

@@budford183 dumbass

+jimthecarguy It's warming up nicely. Still had to turn on the heater at the house this morning cause it gets chilly at night but spring is upon us!

That's an idea. The one advantage the tester may have over that is showing an actual voltage passing through the circuit. The timing light is an inductive pickup and may get a signal from a weak spark but fail to identify low voltage caused by a shorted cap or burnt rotor contact. At least that's my working theory but I have not tried the method you suggest and its thought provoking. I will do some testing when I get a chance to see if that's an easier way since I love saving time. Thanks for the input and for stopping by!

Bad Drivers of North Texas i