great vlog peter, love watching someone else struggle with a vag hahahaha.. would agree on subframe down being the easiest for both doing a dpf or turbo, and is essential when doing the double cannister dpf .. one thing tho, the injector bolts on type of injector are single use... and as usual tenner a piece and they always have loads in stock!!!!!!!
My favourite at the moment is the Autel MS909. But we also have Snap on Verus edge, Topdon & Mahle. Each on is good on differing manufacturers & models 😉👍
Very interesting Peter…and when you mentioned removing subframe ..my next question was how does he do it…and low and behold next scene you have it all explained…I’m facing a new project and I know it’s an engine out..and nope not a Mazda! 😱 You mentioned on screen to make sure turbo is lubed before installing….how did you go about doing that?
Any simple little syringe & squirt oil into the turbo oil feed or return. I also like if the car cranks a bit longer before firing up, just to lubricate everything at a lower speed 🤔🤔🤔
That’s a job & a half for a diyer like myself, I’ve got a 2011 1.6tdi Passat b7 outside my door 2 years !! & need to get it fixed, whizzing noise on idle (am thinking turbo) & it gets louder soon as it pulls away. It drives ok tho there’s some oil leak under the blinking dpf somewhere I just can’t find, it’s that bad it smoke like overheating & burning. Renew rocker cover gasket last year but didn’t fix it. Arghhh 😢
Hi sir.i been following your work for a while and loving it..honesty in your work is great.i have a question i have a mazda cx5 2,2 diesel 2014 it run fine but putting foot on brake and put in drive or reverse its tpm starts hunting but as it starts to drive nothing is wrong.any suggestions? Will appreciate 🙏
The exhaust camshaft being worn can cause similar issues, due to the exhaust gases not being able to exit the cylinders as fast as is needed. Or injector washers leaking causing a slight drop in compression at lower revs. Hopefully this will help 🤞🤞🤞
