I have done hundreds for folks and it is easy and works great. Never had 1 that didn't work. I grabbed 20 at the dump one day and converted them all and they all got new homes to my buddies wifes! They were in heaven mowing the lawn with a mower that started every time.
I had a Kohler/Lincoln welder/generator that would take forever to start and an hours worth of fiddling and praying until it would run. I stuck one of these on it and didn't need the electric starter we had made for it. One or two pulls and it caught every time. Definitely worth the money. Especially when the airheads at the parts counter can't find your replacement points!
Added one to my Briggs 326437 and it works great. I mounted it similar to what you did but had to replace the screw with a longer one to make it work. Thanks for the video.
Zippo, awesome stuff, I almost gave up on an old 16hp Briggs cast when points plunger stopped moving until I found your vid on the Nova2. fyi to all, I didn't have spark at 1st, not sure what fixed it, cleaned all connections again but also moved the magneto much closer to flywheel, about 1/16 " gap, and starts 1st pull!! Great vids, thx...……….
They work great for Magnetron type ignitions, but won't work with battery ignition systems. Just keep that in mind when applying them to an engine. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Yup just fitted one to a very old (60s ish) ATCO lawn mower that had no spark. Now has a great spark. Electronic ignition is the way forward.
Points for decoration fun!!! That is the first time I've seen a video with the points eliminator. They are a good product for moving forward on an engine. Bruce
jster1963 If it has an external battery coil, I've heard that this ignition module doesn't work well with it. I'm sure you could come up with an electronic ignition module that is compatible though. Just have to do a little research. Cheers!! Zip~
I have 2 wires besides the plug wire coming from my coil. this is on an old Tecumseh motor on a troybuilt tiller I just bought. Will this work? what do I do with the second wire from coil?
will that work on a Wisconsin tr10d of a bolens 1050? it currently has external coil and i see a small wire coming from the back side of the flywheel. not sure if that's the original coil wire or what. thanks
I installed one of those electronic ignition on a Manirelli 2 stroke water pump engine and it will not start when I rapped the rope on the clock wise rotation but it will start on a anticlockwise rotation .do you have any idea why or what can I do to make it start on a clock wise rotation
Zippo, Just ran into this video. I installed on 16hp Briggs, great spark but hard starting now. Does mag timing have to be adjusted? Any advice will be helpful. Need shot of either to start now
Many things can cause hard starting. I would first pull the spark plug to see how the carburetor is acting. Black and the fuel mixture is too rich, white insulator and it's too lean. I don't think the Points Eliminator is the issue here. I believe it's carburetor related. I've got videos on rebuilding and tuning them to help out. Keep me posted George. Zip~
Have you ever seen fail one of these ? Actually, I mean 2 of them ? The situation I have is as follows : an old Honda G150 I have had one of them mounted on, and suddenly the engine gave up. So I started looking for the problem and saw that the points were taken out by the previous owner, but the condensor was shortened to ground. I measured the coil, and seems OK (0,9 & 6k5 ohm). Spark plug OK, spark plug cap OK, kill switch OK, ground OK, but no spark when connected tho the module, coil bench test was OK (with a 9V battery), but I found the spark was weak. So, bought a new module. But still no spark ... It's really a weird problem ... I'm thinking of adding a secondary condenser between primary and ground, but no idea of that could help ... ?
Zippo: I have extra wires on my 16 hp B&S; as well as an external connector at the top of the points and condenser cover. I have a yellow wire from D terminal on ignition switch and a small black wire that goes under the engine tin as well as a larger black wire under the cover connected to points and condenser like you show. The larger wire also goes under the engine tin. I do not know if the if the two (2) black wires are connected or go to the same place. I will try to determine that next. I also have a picture of the connector on the top of the cover. The engine is in a 1973 s-speed manual transaxle tractor.I am a dunce when it come to electrical stuff. Can you help?
Hey Ken I'm having the same issue, did you ever figure it out? I got mine running but it won't shut off with the ignition anymore and I have to ground out the sparkplug to shut it off.
Hi Zippo! Thanks for the video. But I have an issue that maybe you can help with... I added the Nova II to my B&S 23D (in AC B10) because I had lost my spark after the tractor had sat for a winter. After cleaning the magneto and fly wheel magnets, I installed the Nova II (pulling the original points and condenser and mounting it under the points cover for a concealed look). I turned over the motor and SPARK! So I installed the plug, gave it some gas, and - nothing... checked for spark again - and it's still sparking fine. Shot it with some starting fluid and turned it over some more... And nothing. After a little while longer cranking, I would get a loud pop from the exhaust and the occasional backfire through the carb. This would indicate that the ignition timing is off, right? There isn't a way to set the ignition timing, so is the Nova II I received "bad"? What do you think?
Unfortunately the Nova II's and Stens points eliminators don't work on the three leg coils found on many of the Briggs from the early 1960's. The timing gets thrown way off due to the point of the first leg initiating the spark instead of the last as with the points, which shows your timing would be retarded (early) by approximately 6-8 degrees. But it doesn't end there...with how the coil is made (having three legs and the windings being oriented the way they are), I don't know of any other way to achieve an electronic ignition with them. Believe me.....if I had a way, I'd definitely be sharing it with the world as I've got 10+ 23D engines as well as many others that use the same coil. My apologies! Zip~
Thanks for the information, so I didn't spend the next week pulling my hair out over it... I already have new points and condenser on order. If weak/no spark at that point, I'll order up a new coil pack.Then as a last resort, I'll go battery powered ignition. Thanks for your videos on this style motor!
Would this work on a 4 cylinder Suzuki engine..GS 850 .. Electronic ignition..fails as rpms increase ..has a ignition module pickup coil..actually 2 pickup modules ..1 works one pair of cylinders ..second one runs other pair of cylinders .. Thanks in advance..
Old thread, I know. I tried this on a Tecumseh hs50, and it sparks good, but will not fire. It has the coil inside the flywheel, I guess it is a 3 leg, since the coil wraps around the middle prong. I am thinking I will put the points back in it. I didn't tear anything up, but I did remove the points & condenser.
Yeah Oakie. It doesn't work with all engines, but when it does, they're great. Although, I did try this with a Briggs 23D which has a 3 leg coil and it worked fine. On the flip side, I tried it with a Briggs BR6 with the coil under the flywheel and it failed to spark. Might have something to do with the magnets not being able to trigger the module. Cheers! Zip~
I put the points and condenser back in. They worked fine before my attempt, and they work fine now. I have an interested customer who wanted this big old snowblower but wanted “modern “ ignition. If this kills the deal, fine. I have another newer snowblower he might like if I cannot convince him this configuration is best. I am sure this Nova 2 will find a home in a different piece of equipment. Thanks for the knowledge. You teach well. Experience is also a good teacher. You and Bruce’s Shop, and Steve, and Dony, and Mick, and all the others offer wisdom that is condensed experience to keep me from having to fumble in the dark as I build my experience levels. Merry Christmas!!
Hi zippo, I just ordered one of these because my b110 lost spark. Yesterday it randomly came back and ran, today it was running and I went to restart it and lost spark again. Would this remedy my problem or is it possibly my coil at the flywheel is bad?
Typically, it's the points fading in and out that causes the intermittent loss of spark. Your coil should be just fine. Once you install the Nova II, you should be back in business. You don't have to remove the points from the engine, and most often, I do leave them in place, just unhooked from wires. Be sure to keep the kill wire connected as it is so the engine will shut off when the key is turned off. Good Luck and Happy 4th! Zip~
I hooked the wire from the coil that went to the points to the positive side of the module. I hooked the OTHER primary wire from the coil to kill wire, hooked the negative side of the module to the screw that holds the module to the stator plate and of course the plug wire to the plug....NO fire. Swapped the leads on the module in case it runs reverse polarity....NO FIRE, NO HOW. STUMPED.
I looked this item up thinking it would work on lawn tractor but the company says that it is not for battery start situations. Have you tried it on an engine with battery start?
Ok, there may be a little confusion going on here. Electric start has nothing to do with how the engine sends a spark. What the manufacturer is saying is that a Battery Ignition system (An external coil connected to the battery) will not support this module. So, if your engine doesn't have a battery ignition system, then this can replace the points. Zip~
ZippoVarga so if an older tractor is electric start but doesn't use the battery to create a spark it will work? I am about to purchase a gravely 408 will this product work on this application?
So long as it doesn't have a battery ignition it will work. Wait until you have your hands on it before purchasing the Nova II/Stens points eliminator. Cheers! Zip~
In my attempt to remove the points and condenser and switch my Briggs & Stratton Model number 109 402 8 horsepower over to fully electronic ignitionI've run into a few other issues my question is can I attach a Nova module to electronic ignition coil?
Great question Mark. The answer is no. The reason is because the coil is already devoid of points and condenser. Nova II ignition modules are made to replace points and condenser, not electronic ignition coil's also known as Magnetron's on Briggs engines. Cheers! Zip~
Same process. Remove points, take single wire from coil and attach to "+" terminal on the points eliminator and ground a wire to the "-" terminal. Zip~ p.s. I only have one Tecumseh here and it's already an electronic ignition engine.
It should, yes. It can be installed either under the flywheel where the points are (not recommended) or externally where it can regulate its temperature more easily. Too much heat can cause damage in other words. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Thanks! I just have about finished the rebuild, and wanted to eliminate the old points; I'll mount the unit under the blower (not below the flywheel) to make certain it won't get too hot!
+Sam Crawford They don't work with external coil engines or multiple cylinder engines to my knowledge. I would contact the manufacturer for a full list of applications.
With the original Magneto, it will work but if you installed a battery ignition coil then no. This will not work. You're stuck with points unless you reinstall the correct Magneto. Zip~
The coil works in conjunction with the points eliminator. The points eliminator senses the coil passing the magnet and closes the circuit to send the spark. Zip~
I've got a 1963 Harley Sportster with a magneto The points are in the magneto with the coil. It's timed by rotating the magneto. Even though it has no battery I don't see how it could work without something to break the connection to the coil. What don't I understand? How do you time it without the points in the mag?
You can "try", but they're designed for single cylinders. Engines that use only one coil (NOT BATTERY COIL) should work, like the Briggs and Stratton Opposed. But V twins typically have two independent coils. Again, any engine with two coils (Magneto's) or a coil that requires a battery connection and this will not work. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga You are kind Sir, I appreciate the response, it's helpful. Interestingly, I called the Nova II folks yesterday and they indicated to me that the product isn't recommended for a flywheel that has more than one magnet; mine has two magnets, and I've connected up the ignition module 10 ways to Sunday, and it creates no spark in any configuration. It's a 35 year old Tecumseh H30 on a Craftsman edger. It started just last week with points and condenser. I guess I'm going back to points and condenser! Your videos are very entertaining and educational; keep up the good work.
@@ZippoVarga Briggs and Stratton 80202-0465-01-7004063 3hp on a Montgomery Ward edger. I have been having ignition problems where the engine will run great for awhile and then will just die. It has a new carburetor an gas tank because the old ones were corroded beyond use. I bought a new Oregon replacement coil to try with that ignition module to see if that would solve my problem but now I get NO spark at all. I guess I'll just put the new points I got for it in and hope that solves the problem. I think the old coil or condenser were bad and that is why it would die after awhile. I'd really like to get this edger going and use it because I inherited it from my late father who inherited it from my grandpa. I wish grandpa were here to help me because he was a wiz with these small engines!
@@bigpappahemi4263 First off, my deepest sympathies for the loss of your Grandfather. I was very close with mine as well. It's possible that you purchased a Magnetron coil (electronic ignition) which doesn't play well with the polarity of the magnets on your engine. Try to turn the coil around and don't connect the wire from the points (Nova II) to it. If the engine produces spark, you know you have a breakerless (no points) type coil. Let me know what you find out and we'll go from there. I'll do all I can to help out Hemi. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga It is not a Magnetron coil. I won't be able to work on it for awhile because I'm having gastric bypass surgery tomorrow but I will let you know as soon as I try that. Thank you very much for your help and condolences. I do miss my dad and grandfather quite a bit. They say you're never really a man until you father dies and I now see some validity to that statement.
Single cylinder motorcycle owners have used them with success. It depends on the bike. I would check with your bikes manufacturer to see if the Nova II is compatible. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga its a Honda 125.. points might actually be on the cam shaft! .i was under the impression that u install these to the original points and just toss the condenser taking the heat away from the point gap?
I haven't tried using one on a two cylinder so I can't say for certain. But if the Onan has a Battery type Coil then this will not work with it. It's for mag fired coils only. Zip~
+Matthew Piper It needs to be mounted in an area where it won't overheat. Which brand did you purchase? The Stens and Nova II are the most reliable. When you mount it, be sure it's where there is plenty of airflow over the module, but out of harms way of the flywheel. Best of luck! Cheers!! Zip~