Your tutorial is like water in the desert. For a time I've been wanting to turn my 3D designs into something that I can wear (or put on my desk). Thanks bunches for your tutorial videos and the tons of practical tips.
I'm new to pepakura and am making my own Halo 3: ODST Rookie suit... I have to say your videos have, by far, helped me the most from start to finish! Thank you!!!
Probably the best and most informative walkthroughs. You explain things very well, (at the very least, for me) and I think I've learned more in a few videos than I have with my few years of researching and digging through forums and other videos. Again, really well done. Reminds me of working with 501st guys and learning from them.
I must have spent hours this weekend searching for a video just like this! detailed, well spoken, plenty of tips and tricks. Perfect tutorial on this subject sir!
Thanks, that helps a lot. I'm just really nervous about wrecking my piece this far into the process. I've never used bondo before so i wasn't sure how well it would adhere to the surface. Thanks again for your response. Your work has really motivated me! Keep up the awesome work!
files get gumed up , oh wrong finger, use that finger , LOL awesome videos cereal ! i am totally using all of your tips and tutorials for my build , thanks for uploading them !
Glazing or spot putty is an 'optional' final step. What it does is fills in fine hairline scratches, small chips and pin holes. Basically a clean up pass.
Awesome, awesome, awesome video. I've been doing a lot of research the past month and I have to say, this is probably the best video I've seen in explaining the technique. Awesome :)
Great, can't wait to see more working videos. When I watch them, I allways have motivation to work along on my projects... ;) Greetings from Germany :D
Powered sanders are great for ripping through thick material in areas that need a fair amount of removal. That being said, it removes material quickly! When I use a powered sander I never use a grit coarser than 220. I also only use the powered sander for removing "bulky" areas. You can't use it for a "final shape" It's kind of like trying to thread a needle while wearing boxing gloves (not recommended). You're always better off sanding the final stretch by hand.
Before you start sanding, you need a nice rigid surface with at least a little bit on density to it. That being said, areas that don't need any work don't necessarily need to be very dense. Look at the piece you will be working on, figure out which areas need heavy sanding, build up the material thickness accordingly for those areas. Also, no need to scuff where you plan on putting filler, it will stick just fine!
That all depends... you only have to press as hard as needed to spread the material. The cheaper stuff "Bondo brand" is thicker than better quality materials such as "Ever coat". What's more important than "how hard to press" is to try to get what you need applied in a single swipe. The more you swipe over an area you've already done, them more you mess up. Things more often than not look pretty good after the first pass, however we have a tendency of overworking an area making it look worse.
Love your videos and sense of humor. But why make the shoulder locks from solid Rondo and do all that work shaping? Any reason why not to box them out separately from styrene sheet and strip, sand them to shape, then epoxy them in? Coming from a plastic model kit background, it would seem to me a quicker, easier, and more-precise way of making them - unless I'm totally missing something here....
Yellow, yes, somewhat. Because most of the crappy Resins you buy at the stores have been sitting around for God knows how long, some of it does tend to take on a more yellow color. Believe it or not, the stuff can expire!!! Not sure what you mean by green though??
Great videos! Some of the most informative I've found! For clarity, you do a resin only process inside and out, followed by a 50/50 Rondo process inside only, followed by a 3:1 Rondo process inside only with a final bondo process outside only. Is that correct?
Something I noticed you didn't cover was the small ridge around the shoulder bit. Is that more pep? Or did you add that in with something else. I'd really like to know because these smaller details aren't usually included in the pep files i find and are what bring together the piece and make it look really well built. I apologize if it's covered in another video.
Thanks a lot! yeah I ripped right through it. Have you actually completed your whole suit yet or is it still in the works? I would love to see the final project. I have my entire suit fibreglassed and ready for the bondo. I just figured I should start with the chest and use your suit for reference. Keep up the great work!
Hey, No problem! Polyester resin and Fiberglass resin are the same thing. As far as "Bondo" goes, it's just a name brand like McDonalds & Burger King... They both make Hamburgers. What you want is (Automotive body filler) it does not matter who makes it it will serve the same purpose.
This is a fantastic tut! Wish I'd had it when I made my first chestpiece. I didn't bring down the edges and I tried to do way too much bondo too fast (plus I added too much hardener). Pretty much everything you said would happen happened. On the bright side, It was supposed to look like beat up junk so I got lucky. This is a definite godsend for the dragon priest mask I'm making. Do you have any advice for bondo on projects with finer details or indentations?
Very thorough and in depth tutorial. Good stuff man. You really gave me a lot of inisight on what I've been doing wrong with this step of the armor making process. I'm currently making a Rouge Halo Helmet and after I applied the bondo I couldn't help but notice that after it dried and I sanded it down, it still looked really clumpy. Looks like that one tool you used to sand down the bondo comes really in handy. If u don't mind me asking, what was the name of that tool and where can I buy it?
Hey everybody.... I know it's been a long time since there has been a video installment. I'm in the process of a rather large move to a different province and have not had the time to really reply to comments let alone do a video :( Rest assured, things will be picking back up in a few weeks! I have the material for 3 videos that will be coming out pretty close together! Sit tight all! I'm on it! Cheers, Dave.
these are the most informative tutorials i have seen. thank you. one question. before you added the primer. (and im sure i know the answer) but did you brush on a think coat of the rondo as well?
hi there, i have a question i want to make a cosplay costume using pepakura, never done this before ... what is the best and cheapest way to harden a foam build?
Hard question to answer. That all depends on how you apply it. Once you think you have reached the point of thickness or coverage you are looking for, that's the cue to start sanding. Once you think you're there, spray a guide coat of primer and sand with 320 grit to expose any low spots (will still have primer) then fill again and sand again... repeat this until you're board or done. :)
Hey Dave, could you edit in your original post your size and how you managed to scale your pieces? That chest fits you perfectly, and I'd like to know where/what you measured in order to get to that. Thanks!
Great videos and work man. I'm very very impressed. What do you use to clean your bondo lid? I usually try and scrap off any leftover but I usually can't get it all.
There are a lot of variables which will effect how resins cure. Temperature and light (uv exposure) are two big factors. The warmer/brighter it is, the less time you have, the less hardener you will need. (however that being said there is a minimum, and always use the product rec's)
After you sanded your bondo what was the pink stuff you used to "glaze" it? it went from a bondo color, then it cut to the next clip and it was much more red was that all Spot putty? across the whole thing and over the bondo? also great vids man.
how many coats of resin do you have to do to keep from grinding through to the paper? This is amazing btw, so helpful to a guy like me who wants TDK suit so bad but dosnt want to pay $300 + bucks for it
Great video. Just one question. I'm using a rasp to file down the ridges, but in alot of places that I'm trying to even out its making holes and going all the way thru. Did I not put enough resin on the piece? I put two coats inside and out. Thanks. Again, great video.
Hey, running through your videos again, and reminded of a question I have when you bring up primer showing imperfections; Do you think it would be alright to put a quick coat of primer after resin and before bondo to get a better idea of how the bondo application is gonna go?
Hey i just wanted to say that i love your tutorials. I do have a question however. I have finished hardening the outside of my chestpiece and i am about to do the inside with fibreglass. At what point do i start to sand the outside? Do i sand before i apply the bondo to make a better bonding surface?
awesome tipps thank you *__* you do it nicely :D but y u smoke :( no i must go smoke too XD Im doin a power helmet from Fallout 3.. you can give me some tips for da eyes and filter in da middle of da front (it is completely round )
Wat kind if bondo r u using is it putty bondo, glass bondo, or something els, I used putty bondo and that didn't work out to well for me, or I just suck at applying bondo. Thanks for some of the tips, mine looks like total crap compared to yours. Nice job it looks awesome.
Would you say the method you have used to harden this chest piece would be the best way to harden a helmet or would using a different method work better?
Hey Dave I had a question about sanding tools; do you think i could get by with a dremel, a sanding head, and a set of files, instead of going out and buying an orbital sander? Thanks :)
That is just a personal choice, I tend to go over my pieces with a thin layer of spot putty just to get any fine scratches, or small pits/pinholes that I may have missed. This is not a step that is a "must do".
As far as what the products are used for: 1. To strengthen and thicken a piece 2. To add detail and or smooth out a rough surface 3. Fill in low spots and make repairs if needed. Oh yeah, You can also use it on cars! ;p
It could be worse... You could be a tattoo artist! One thing you need to learn is that nothing is permanent! There's always a way to fix or do over. :)
what type of orbital sander you using? I went to Canadian Tire and the only one they have is a non-veriable 12,000 rpm one that the staff member told me would pass through what I am working on.
I need a little help. I started sanding my first helmet and its rough as hell. Not to mentions there's a lot of dimples. And in some areas where I sanded, the pep model is starting to show. Any advice to fix it?
I think I saw your original question on the 405th. Use a spot putty/glaze to fill pin holes and smooth coat small areas. You won't be adding bulk with it, it's just to fill in imperfections.
Absolutely, just bend the spreader lightly once the bondo has cured and it will come right off, also scraping it with another spreader or scraper works well too.
Could you make a list of every material you used to make this? I'd love to make this, but since I can't drive, making multiple trips to Canadian tire or another store would be ridiculous. So far I've gotten bondo, resin, and body filler. Did you say super glue too? I'm kind of lost. Can you make a list? How much would this cost me to buy these materials?
Hey Cereal Kill3er, just a question here! I've been using Bondo for coating my helmets and armour, but they are kind of sticky and tough to work with. I also see that you are using some kind of red creamer here together with the Bondo, making it so must better to work with, something that is easier to smoother and scrape with. Can i get the brand of this creamer, and may i ask how does the creamer help in any way?
Scratch that. The red creme is the hardener. Dont use the bondo without it because it will take weeks to dry. Someone must have snagged it before you bought the bondo.
