Very sorry to learn of your father's passing. Many of us have been there and know the memories are precious. Always enjoy your RR comments even though I've gone Chevy Tahoe and no regrets.
Thanks! I don’t know that my knowledge is unquestionable, though! LOL! I have been wrong a time or two (but don’t tell anyone I admitted to it)! Yup! I know BATUS well - I know a number of people who did a tour there, though I never came here in my stint. I have some minor involvement with them these days through the Burns’ suppers and through the release of the older Land Rover (and other) equipment. I have a friend in town who does a lot more with them and visits BATUS quite frequently. Did you do a stint there?
Good to hear from you, Bossman! Thanks for taking a moment to say hi! This, too, shall pass, they say! I just wish I’d get a better twist for a change!
Wishing you well. It sounds like you are going through a lot of the same things I am currently. Here’s to hoping for better days soon. Curious to know what brand of tire you are running these days. Safe travels to you!
Thanks! I’m sorry to hear you’re going through a rough patch too! I hope things with you pick up too! For winter, I always run Nokian Hak9s, as they’re stuffed for the road ice we get in Alberta and the mountain passes. For the summer, I’m still running the Nokian Outpost AT - they’re outstanding tyres, and particularly good in the shoulder season!
No shock performs well much past 6-8 years of age, as they start to loose their dampening capacity. Add adaptive shocks to the mix and the difference can be pronounced. I noticed on the drive to Vancouver today that mine is not handling the corners as well as it should - I might have to swap them sooner rather than later! There’s a big difference when they’re running right!
I can't believe your first statement re the gearboxes is totally incorrect. The ZF and GM are NOT the same gearbox and in fact are made not only by two sparate companies but in different countries. It's the GM box that is called the toffee box, not yhe zf. If you don't know these basics what else are you wrong about.
Thanks for your comment - though perhaps you ought to have taken a more pedagogical tone. I’m no expert, but I am pretty certain that the V8 L322’s were, in fact, fitted with a 5 speed ZF (ZF 5HP) in MY02-05, when it was replaced in MY06 by the ZF 6 speed ZF 6HP with the engine change. The TD6s L322s received the 5 speed GM 5L40-E between MY02-2005 - but, as I mention in the video, my information speaks mostly to the V8 units, as diesels weren’t available here (The L494 did receive some TD6 units, but I don’t know of any diesel L332s in North America that were not special imports). The ZF 5speeds, mated to the 4.4 BMW engine are well known to fail and are often referred to as ‘chocoloate’. This follows a very long history of chocolate ZF boxes - including the 4 speed variants in the RRCs (which failed regularly and repeatedly). The early automatic RRCs in the early 1980s was a 3 speed GM - which was broadly bullet proof. I am not always correct in everything I say, and I don’t profess to be an expert. I also try, wherever I can, to be clear on what I don’t know - perhaps you might try that yourself?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’ve been a Rover enthusiast for 21 years now and have a maddening love for working on them. I’ve recently graduated to a 08 L322, 137K miles that spent it’s life in Miami. Zero rust but you’ve got me a little concerned with the 4.4. I’m replacing the O2 sensors, servicing the trans & filter, new shocks, etc. Any chance the MAF sensor takes well to cleaning? (My D2s and P38 Bosch MAFs don’t like it). Any tips to extend the life of the water pump? I’ll hoping I don’t go through five 😳. Your channel is really helping me figure out the L322. I hope the sun is starting to shine a bit brighter for you. Sending good energy your way. Scott
Hi Scott, Thanks for your thoughts -- I hope so too; I need a good twist after this last 18 months! Sadly there doesn't seem to be anything you can do for the water pump. I assume that the shaft seals overheat or break up, but they tend to leak either at the timing cover gasket or on the shaft. I generally just have one in stock these days, expecting it to fail at some stage. They're a bit pricy, but they can be found for less money online -- always fit OEM, though, as buying the aftermarket ones is just asking for drama. I have found that MAFs do not like cleaning -- even with the proper MAF cleaner. I tend to throw those away too when they start to fail. I have never had one fail completely, but fail enough to throw codes. I have also thrown on a lot of O2 sensors to my LR3 (with the 4.4). It had three sets of front and back, I seem to recall. I don't know why they played up, but they do. That said, my last L322 gave me an O2 code once for about 3 weeks. I bought two sensors (I always do both sides when I do everything) and didn't get around to fitting them for various reasons and the code disappeared and never came back -- so figure that out! I wouldn't worry too much about owning a 4.4; statistically, they are the least likely to cause any issues (though do get the crossover and thermostat in stock for when it fails -- there's an updated bleed screw mod available too -- make sure you get that). You're right to do the transmission and the other stuff, be on top of the trans every 50-75,000 miles and it should last you well; same with the rear diff and transfer box if you have locking diffs (the diff clutches wear and turn the oil into a sort of sludge over time). Good luck with your 08! I am certain it will give you many miles of happy motoring -- don't forget to change your engine oil regularly!
@@shedlock2000 You’re a wealth of knowledge. I greatly appreciate all your tips. I sprung a coolant leak today in the 08. Looks like an upper hose. I’ll get it sorted tomorrow. I feel like the old girl is letting her presence be known. Rovers have a way of drawing us in, tempting our love of design, then demanding our time and attention. What motor oil do you recommend? Do you run a winter and summer weight? I live in southern Indiana so it gets cold, but nowhere near what you experience. On another note, as a health coach I recommend searching youtube on a few things that might be of help to you. -ALCAR -Lithium Orotate -High dose Thiamine -Zinc glycinate (right before bed) There’s other protocols that are beneficial but these are effective at building a good foundation. I don’t mean to imply you don’t have things moving in the right direction. I’ve been in a similar situation as you and sometimes it feels like the light at the end of the tunnel is no where in sight. I just recognize the good in you and the Beatles said it best “We get by with a little help from our friends”. I’m cheering you on. If I can be of any help please let me know.
Hahaha! Yeah, they do that on you -- right when you are not expecting it! If you watch my service videos, I advise people to take a few moments to look at the area in which they're working to inspect for chafing hoses, wearing wires, rubbing belts etc., as this permits the owner to anticipate failure of something and to adjust accordingly. While changing my oil this time around, I noticed that JLR had my coolant hoses installed incorrectly and I altered them to avoid rubbing; I cleaned out some stuck dirt on my air spring cans to avoid wearing the rubber bags out which I noticed while swapping the tyres to summer tyres. These are not absolutes, but they can help to avoid failures and keep the vehicle rolling! Thanks for the tips! I shall look into those. I do already take a high-quality multi vitamin -- but I will look into your suggestions! Thanks! I appreciate the guidance and counsel -- I will reach out to you if I need some more direction! I do run a winter and summer weight oil (0W-20s for the former and 5W-20s for the latter). I no-longer run the Castrol Edge Professional, as I believe that the only difference between the Edge and the Edge Professional is a dye used by the oil manufacturer to determine whether the correct oil has been used and the correct service intervals have been followed. Whether or not this is the actual difference, I cannot say. However, the Castrol Edge is available from your local parts supplier for less than 1/3rd the cost of the professional from JLR and I do like the oil. I am also reliably told that Mobil 1 has a suitable oil -- but up here they have several different oils that seem to be identical and I cannot for the life of me figure out which is the one people on the forums are raving on about (so I use Castrol instead). I was a lover of the GTX for years, though my favourite oil was the Fuchs Ashford (no longer available and never available as a synthetic). My go-to test was the finger test, which worked for natural oils but not for synthetic. I would, however, only recommend Castrol or Mobil 1 (though there are many others who recommend others); for the diffs and transmission, everything comes from JLR, as the special oils are hard to find anywhere else and are changed so infrequently that the price difference is not really relevant.
@@shedlock2000 very helpful, thank you! I’m looking forward to getting all the oils up to date. I fixed the coolant leak. Got lucky with a top hose ballooning at clamp. Probably a good idea to swap all the hoses as the interior of the ballooned hose is starting to crack. The other hoses look in good shape but no way of knowing the interior condition. I found the complete hose kit at Atlantic British for ~$1200. Do you know of any recommended alternatives that are more economical? TIA Hopefully the weather breaks soon. Lots of sun and time in nature are good medicine.
@@the1stime Hmmmm, sourcing parts is a bit of a gong-show, as some things are cheaper to import and other things are cheaper to buy domestically. I never rule out JLR, as they can be quite competitive on some things -- I generally shop about as much as I can to find the best price. I do use LRDirect and I use a few other places too -- I haven't bought as much from AB, as the prices have gone up a bit over the last 10 years; I also try Lucky8 and eBay, as you never know what deals are there. I should emphasise, though, that I never buy anything but OEM -- save in a few non essential cases (such as sunvisor clips etc). This is because, in my experience, OEM generally far outperform aftermarket parts and I fitting them can avoid re-fitting aftermarket parts. You should be aware, however, that some shops like to supply their own parts -- given that they often have to warranty them and must also cover the part installation costs again as well. If this is the case, then ask them to source OEM -- and if they cant, take what they can. I am stuck inside working on my research more at the moment -- so getting out is not really much of an option, sadly. I have not even had time to edit a short that I recorded last week! Hope you are enjoying the weather down there!
I just bought a 05 HSE here in Canada for 500$, 235k kms, tonga green like yours, it has a bit of surface rust and all of the electrical s great, the right sde airbag had a leak so I bought a China copy for 100$ of aliepress, it has the BMW motor 4 or 4.4 litre, When you put it in drive it won't move but tries to n reverse. The linkage is fine but it doesn't lock in R,N,D for some reason. The rear wheels don't lock in park or with the ebrake engaged but the front do, Do you think its the TC or rear diff?
Hmmm, there’s a few issues there. The e-brake is on drums on the rear wheels, so they should lock the rear wheels up regardless of what else is going on. If the rear wheels don’t lock in park, that sounds like there’s an issue between the transmission and the rear wheels (you have to have one on the ground to do that test, else the diff will allow the other to rotate). If one wheel is on the ground and the other is up, then the wheel should not turn much if the transmission is in park; if it does, then there’s a disconnect between the transmission park pawl and the rear wheel. The park pawl doesn’t normally give trouble, but I’m not very well versed on the 5 speeds. The TC will rarely be an issue with this kind of thing, as it’s merely a mechanism to connect the engine to the box; once drive is permitted through the valves, the TC will permit drive to be conducted to the axle (via the transfer box). Because it’s not a full clutch, the TC doesn’t behave similarly. If it were a diff, you’d likely be able to hear it. Both wheels need to be turned in the same direction off off the ground to conduct drive back to the transmission, and some of that may be lost if the central diff-lock in the transfer box is not operating well (I think, but don’t know, that the centre diff is a Borg-Warner style diff lock on those - meaning that it’s hard to lock them fully to determine the condition of the locking differential or to isolate the front prop shaft). There’s really a lot more testing to run to help determine what’s up. The shift lever should move the lever in the gearbox which alters the shuttle valves in the block, these are mechanical, so if it’s not ‘locking in’ a position, it sounds like there’s an issue with the linkage rather than the box. I suggest one thing at a time. Pick up one rear wheel and rotate the other with the box in neutral then in park to identify if the rear diff is broken (leave the front wheels on the ground). Then swap to check the front diff. I suspect your transmission is likely the culprit, but it’s hard yo say without being there.
Yes, it’s called the GAPIID tool from GAP Diagnostics in Eastern Canada. They’re quite expensive now, but there are occasionally carefully used ones that come up on the for sale pages on the Facebook L332 groups. The GAP tools will work on most models of Land Rover - but with reduced functionality on the latest models. See here: www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/
@@shedlock2000 Thank You so very much. We located it and have one ordered. My Range Rover only goes to the dealership to have work done. It will be nice to be able to monitor it at home. Also can not wait to see what programing they have setup in it.
There are a number of things you can do with the GAP Tool that will allow you to self-diagnose and fix some minor issues; it also allows you to activate and de-activate some systems such as the continental running lights. At the more advanced level, you can also flash certain modules to update the software and firmware (see my video on installing flappy paddles).
@@shedlock2000 it will be nice to have for my husband. I am of course not very mechanical. But i am very lucky to have a husband that is ASE Certified. He just does not do mechanic work any longer. We own and operate a Trucking Company now. I am just curious to see what all settings they have turned off. Since the dealership is the only ones to ever work on it.
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Sorry! It’s a busy time at the moment! Thanks for reminding me! Ideally, 45mm by no more than 950mm So quite thin, really. Depending upon the case construction, I might be able to squeeze in 50mm tall, but that would be an interference fit. The depth of the lamp would also need to be no more than 50mm. This light would fit almost all Land Rover models, as the lower grills are roughly the same dimensions. The bar would need to be cute Ed in order to fit the grill location.
Hi buddy. I wonder if your heart issue is the same as mine. I had atrial fibrillation, where my heart would just have episodes of going rapid and going completely out of sync. If it is just so you know I had a procedure, which worked and I’m perfectly health now.
Hep Mark! Curiously enough I just had a diagnosis on Monday. Apparently I have SVT (super ventricular tachycardia) with PAC (premature atrial contraction). Additionally, the cardiologist said that half of my heart muscle wasn’t working - though for some reason that seemed not to bother him! I’m supposed to have a heart ablation sometime in the coming year (it takes that long because Canada). Was that what you had? I believe it works incredibly well, from what I’m told. I’m pleased to hear that it’s sorted you out well enough! How long did you have to wait for the procedure?
@@shedlock2000 yes buddy. I just wanted you to know there is hope and I’m confident it will get sorted. I believe SVT and AF are very similar just different parts of the heart. I had 2 ablations. The first did not work which is common. I was losing whole and very worried, but rest assured I’m fine now. It’s most likely the signal is now missing part of the muscle which is why it’s not working. They just need to find your short circuit!
That’s interesting to know! Yes, I think AF and SVT are similar. I didn’t know that it’s not common for the first op not to work though - it’s good to know that the second go around worked, though! Mine has become progressively worse in the last 5-7 years, so I’m hoping they can get it sorted before I skip too much of the gym! Glad they sorted you out pal! I’m also hoping that they can fix whatever muscle doesn’t seem to be working! (I’ll find out after the cardiologist consults with the other guy).
@@shedlock2000 feel free to get in comms if you have any questions mate. I didn’t have any support or know anyone with anything similar. And I put a brave face on but was bricking it inside. I’m so jealous of where you live. I was in BATUS for 6 months twice. Love Alberta.
