You just got a new subscriber this is exactly what I been looking for !!! I need to replace my asus n56vm bios chip and I was wondering how to do it but now I know thanks to you !!! 😃👍🏻
All of these videos have one thing in common, so far know one mentioned the solder iron temperature, by experimenting using Kester 44 Solder Wire, 63/37 0.020-in, RMA Rosin, 3/4-ounce Tube at 650 to 700 degrees (343 to 371 C) might be right or wrong it has worked for me.
Thanks! Any time you're comparing two parts that are in the same package, get the datasheets for those parts and carefully compare the function of each pin. The chip we're doing in this video is a switching power supply controller. SO-8s are very common and can be anything from transistors and diodes, to memories and op-amps.
I think your dwell time on the pin is too long and could damage the part. pins are rated for so much heat for a length of time. datasheets will carry that information but for reflow soldering. when doing this way shorten that time. also. where was your flux. if relying on flux core solder it's not enough. just my observations. nice video otherwise. PS. if you use a paste flux you can use it like a glue to position your part. then simply hold part down while soldering.
You are absolutely correct, Bill. But with the thousands of engineering students we have worked with, not one of them owns flux, so we detail this alternate method. Always good to have extra tools in the tool box. Thanks for checking out the video!
+ninearthify Of course you can do it at home if you have the tools. We use a Hakko 888D iron, some good tweezers, solder wick and 0.020" solder - about US$100 worth of stuff and there are plenty of lower cost irons out there, too. The bigger question is can you identify the component on your HDD that is the problem, can you actually get a replacement part, and then can you successfully do this work? We've had our fair share of HDD crashes, and none of them were serviceable. On a side note: external hard drives pull a lot of current! If you are running on USB, try a very short cable and make sure you are running on a full power USB port (non-powered hubs don't tend to work). If your HDD has an external power source, make sure you have that plugged in, too. Hopefully that solves your problem without ever warming up a soldering iron! Not quite as fun, but definitely less risky. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Engenuics Technologies wow thank you so much for this information. I wish there were kind people like you where I live. Here everyone is such a jerk trying to charge me $1000 to $1500 for recovering this data.
How do you solder wires to the pins of an SOIC? I've been trying for hours and but every time it goes to hell. I'm practicing on a broken motherboard. That would be a helpful video too ;-)
Definitely a challenge! Use 30AWG wire-wrap wire (or smaller). Tin the wire and the pin. Heat the pin at the top (near the plastic) and wait to see the solder melt on the pad then bring in the wire to the pad. Make sure you see the solder on the wire melt when it's in contact with the pin/pad, then remove the iron while keeping the wire very still for 2 seconds or so while the solder solidifies. If you have a good stable work surface and a steady hand, it's not too bad. If you have to do adjacent pins it gets pretty tricky. You can also lift a pin (you get ONE chance before it breaks) and solder to that while it's sticking up. Or get/make a little breakout board. Or follow some traces to a different location on the PCB and solder there. All depends on what you're trying to do. We'll put your request on the "to-do" list of videos!
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll try this tomorrow, although the are no visible pads, or they're too small. I have to solder a ribbon cable of 12 wires (1.27mm pitch) to the pins of one side of an IC. I've been trying the method described in the photo I'm linking to, but I cannot do it so far: imgur.com/a/jZPB1
That's some nice work in the photo. With multiple adjacent wires the problem quickly becomes "adding width" to each pin you work with and you'll inevitably bridge a few. Flux will be your savior in both those cases. If you wick it, you'll likely remove at least a few of the connections you already made. I recommend starting in the middle and working out. You could also start with 30AWG wires and bring them out to your cable. An extra step, but could save a LOT of frustration. I'd also clamp or hot glue (or at least tape) the ribbon cable down to the board in exactly the right position so you can just gently press the wires down to the pins and not have to worry about lateral movement. That will help immensely.
You were right. Flux _was_ my savior. I use a 60/40 solder with resin core, but man, that extra flux made the difference. Now, when tinning the pins they would hold just the right amount of solder without creating a mess and it was just a matter of pressing the tinned wires onto the pins. First try and I was able to solder an x8 ribbon cable on my test motherboard. Tested for continuity, passed. Thanks for the other tips too!
