No hate at all, master ford technician here. Considering all 4 cylinders have an issue that seems to be fuel related, I would have hooked up a manual gauge in line and monitored fuel pressure while driving when the concern is happening to verify proper fuel pressure to the rail.
i thought the same thing. its either fuel supply or electrical/bad ground. no way all 4 go at the same time unless some sugar was in the tank or something
@@kingofkings2934 I've been taping my fuel pressure gauge with a hose to the windshield for over 20 years. Now I use a pressure transducer, run a wire inside the cab and view it on my O-scope.
There is a high-pressure pump relay soldered onto the footwell module. They get wet when the sunroof drain gets clogged. The fuse you saw was for the in tank pump. I'm guessing your high pressure fuel pump is going bad and causing misfires under boost.
Dude you should make your videos longer and do a start to finish with you showing the actual fix, I love watching you man and just wanna help you get better and grow this channel you deserve it
@@lukevandermark71 oh dude forsure he does, I’m sure he has to edit like hell and takes out a lot of stuff he doesn’t want on his channel so the videos be seeming like nothings getting done but it for sure is no doubt
Stop worrying what people will think if you make mistakes, record from the start to the very end, when its fixed. It'll help your channel blow up with views. People make mistakes in the videos and people love it, as long as you get the job done, you're honest with the customer and you keep genuine when you try. If you fail, still put it up. Everything's a learning curve (based on history of videos and the comments. Still watching this and only seen you on fb, didnt know you had yt)
Exactly. I just paid $830 bucks for a mechanic to fix a cluncking noise when I go over bumps. They replaced front control arms and some of the rear bushings. And it didn't fix my issue, they told me they fixed it. So I called a mobile mechanic and told me the noise came from my left rear shock. $167 later, the noise was complely gone. I realized I spent $830 when I could've only spent $167
I agree myself personally if I had a channel and was a mechanic at that. I personally would video everything good bad etc, that’s part of everything in life nothing rarely ever goes smoothly, which in my eyes is a good thing as well because it shows things happen, and aren’t always easy and you run into issues at times, and in my eyes it’s always good too see how one handles there issue and how it went down and what you did to fix it, I’m 50 years old and every day I still learn something new, .
Not the low pressure fuel pump it’s the HPFP. That’s why you are getting random misfires. Injectors rarely go bad on minis. Plus the fuel relay she is talking about is on the circuit board on the JBE box. You have to disassemble and desolder to replace. Well documented. Also could just need a good walnut blast for carbon buildup in the intake valves. All direct injection engines have that problem and will throw misfires when they are carboned up.
@@recarored9862 you can watch for the pressure with a scanner. Even the cheap obdIi scanners can read the fuel rail pressure. Pelican parts has a good how to diagnosis you can follow.
@@PeterFeltersnatch852 FCP & AA auto also have some good videos too. I am fortunate to live within half hour of FCP and with 3 minis I’m there often. Their lifetime warranty on anything you buy pays off. I get an oil change kit and I return one. Basically I only paid for my first.
When you do a power balance test it should cut the injector for the cylinder you test. I will say I have not used that scan tool and I’m not sure what your test is doing but when you tested cylinder 3 and you felt the car almost die that means that cylinder 3 was contributing well. Probably doing the most work. So that would explain why you didn’t get a cylinder 3 misfire on your test drive
This is parts changer mentality please don’t do that on such an expensive repair, I know it’s tempting to believe throwing money at a problem will make it go away but it’s a false hope believe me I’ve been down that road. these people clearly can’t easily take such a hit. A deeper dive with scope is warranted in this case. Either computer or power feed to injectors and/or grounds to injector/computer.
I couldn't really hear what she was saying, but did she say the fan was constantly on? Are you sure the coolant temp sensor was giving the correct temp? If the engine thinks the temp is wrong, it will adjust fuel delivery based on the wrong temp. Coolant temp should appear on freeze frame data....
This wasn't a diagnosis. This was a misdiagnosis. If you disable an injector and get a response, there's nothing wrong with that injector. If you disable an injector and there is no change, that's your problem injector. The poor man's balance test is done by unplugging 1 injector at a time. You just charged people for a guess that probably won't do anything. I've seen carbon build up on the valves cause that exact issue on GDI engines. Not saying that's it but you definitely need to bust out more than just a scan tool to diagnose.
Word of advice for any mobile mechanic and that means us guys out here driving all day everyday with a trunk full of tools and we don't always fix everyone else's car but we're ready to fix ours in a 15 minute pinch. Always use compressed air down a spark plug well before you remove the plug It could have water oil sand debris you don't want any of that contaminating your cylinder walls If you want to keep a clean burning engine don't be Scotty kilmer
Any car that starts up with no misfire and only misfires under harder acceleration has a coil pack issue 😉 put it in gear with your foot on the brake and rev it up a bit if it stumbles at all change the coil pack It's called a load test you might still need better plugs but that shouldn't keep it from firing and while you're pulling your plugs out to look at the condition of your plug because it tells whether your engine has been washed or if it burned clean you can use a multimeter to test the resistance of your plug
Usually after a coil pack goes bad something else that could be failing would be the crankshaft sensor probably time for a coolant flush if you've put a significant amount of miles on it just to get any minerals out of the water and always only use distilled water with concentrated antifreeze saving yourself a few bucks will cost yourself a couple thousand for new heads when the minerals eat pits next to the gaskets I think there's a better type but at least distilled or only buy 50/50
Fuel rail. Had similar problem. Drove me nuts changed everything. Misfire would jump from cylinder to cylinder. My son would run gas low. 2007 Toyota corolla. Got a junk yard one finally fixed the problem. And i did change everything. Never thought it would be that
Signs of a failing high pressure fuel pump, super common on these prince engines 2007-2016. If left like that eventually it's going to cause the low pressure pump to work harder, pop the low pressure fuel pump fuse, most people end up putting a slightly higher amp fuse in and it starts to burn the connector at the pump, I've already seen 2 of these Mini's do that but I have replaced quite a few HPFP's on these, they're back ordered and expensive but not a hard job, just remove the intake pipes and filter box and disconnect any nearby vacuum lines so you don't break them and then you have full access to the pump on the right side of the block. Prime the fuel system with a few key ons before trying to start.
If it has coilover plugs it leans to an injector issue a computer or a timing issue due to a bad cam or crank sensor The sensors tell the computer where each piston is at in its stroke at so the computer can tell the injector driver when to spray and the coil pack went to fire but some vehicles if one injector fails they all stop working so you can't even start the car crankshaft sensor could do it if it's intermittently open from heat. If it has one singular coil pack and wires running to it it's the coil pack because he said it didn't misfire at idle. If you suspect it's an injector All you need to do is pull the rail leave the clips in the upper housing and turn on the engine at least try and it will spray
I think it’s the fuel flow from the flamistan, which inherently causes the peatongs to inadvertently collapse against the rubber capped sensors causing hiccups in the flow sensor. Reinstall the Brett’s bard bypass and that will solve 90% of the problem. Case closed unless you instruct them to avoid British rust buckets like the Plague.
Notorious BMW product these Coopers. Injectors are pricey, I have an F30. For the love of God can you buy a better camera and stop cutting the video short? lol Love watching this
After removing the injectors hook up a 12 power souce. Using a tire valve, drill a small hole in the tire valve cap to fit a carburetor or brake cleaner straw thru it. Place the fuel injector feed at the opposite end of the tire valve ,with power spray the injector clean.
Bro didn't even interpret that balance test correctly and people just suck his pole like he's a super tech who works for crumbs. When you shut off an injector and get a change, that cylinder is contributing. When you shut off an injector and nothing happens, that cylinder is dead.
Yep, I can sense the uncertainty of his evaluations. Every car is different but if you're not 100% sure about a fix then you're best to just leave it to someone who does know 100% otherwise you're just wasting peoples time and money.
All or most of the fuel injectors going bad at the same time? I guess it's possible if some bad fuel clogged them simultaneously, but I'm dubious. I think it's something before the injectors that's affecting fuel delivery to all.
It’s an English car. I owned a MG midget. Electrical nightmare that car was 12 feet long. There was enough wire in that car to wire a suv. Negative earth ground system. I will never touch a British car truck ever again.
I am a critical person but don't take it critically look out for things like wire harnesses that are on Dodge caravans the 3.3 l say a 2005 they melt because they're right above the exhaust manifold in the heat shield is tiny when you pull the insulation away you'll see all of the wires melted together just pull them apart tape them up and re-insulate the entire area but reroute it up and around over the top use a Tie strap or two if you have to. You going to see a lot of dead 3.3's look out for that issue and the crankshaft sensors die all the time The computers like to follow them so it's better to fix it in the order I just talked about lol
Bro I just came across your channel yesterday, please make full videos of a diagnosis and repair. Videos just cutting off randomly is so anti-climatic.
Personally that thing looks so clean in the engine looked so nice and you could tell it was maintenanced I'm willing to bet it's something stupid like a crankshaft sensor
Let me come with you on a couple videos I'll teach you a thing or two. Work on narrowing down the issue have you cranked the engine and looked at the spray pattern of the injectors? A fuel filter should be changed about every 50k. Test some sensors the cam and crankshaft If all that looks good replace the computer and call it a night. A lot of times the PCM and the crankshaft sensor go bad at the same time I was lucky enough to figure it out right away after I got the van running again at least I could start it without putting my foot to the floor it still was missing $20 later I had it fixed. I can tell it's coilover plugs rule those out rule the spark plugs out pull the fuel rail rule the injectors out, test the cam and crankshaft sensors they might be open circuit under highheat as well test with your multimeter at least probe it with the battery disconnected and wire harness detached might be good to do it while it's hot. Test it for resistance and then plug it in and check it for power Make sure it's a closed circuit at the proper voltage. If all of that looks good you have a bad computer
I would be looking for a bad ground or other electrical issue, such as whatever active electronics drive the injectors, and verifying good electrical signal to the injectors, before replacing them, with the intermittence of it, and fact that it affects most or all injectors. Just to make sure they are the problem. Good luck!
I had a wrx misfiring randomly, replaced plugs and coils. No fix. I noticed it more after filling up with 93 octane gas. I was a creature of habit and always got gas at the same station. Changed to a newer station and the issue never occurred again.
Injectors don't go bad all at once unless somebody sabotaged your fuel system but the filter would catch it all so the car would end up stalling on you but it might just need a new fuel filter If that's inside the fuel pump module that's what it needs you need to drop the tank Don't make this complicated you can dump sugar in someone's gas tank and it's not going to ruin the engine It all gets caught in the filter there isn't an amount that could hurt it to come through but it will clog it up so we'll Snickers bars
You might want to reread things you type before you hit publish 🤣. But yes that's what he said and yes he is absolutely correct. Same for tires and brakes and shocks and pretty much everything on a car. You do them in pairs
I have a mini cooper & I wish I never bought the car! I only bought it because it was fast, i should did research before I bought it, pain and the ass work on, mini have to do everything diffent, I had to reprogrammed the frm 2 module 2 times because I made a spark connecting the battery and erased everything off it. No windows, no blinkers, no lights, etc all the stuff frm controls lol 😅 then my alarm would not stop 1 day, so I had to cut some wires, and rewireed them. No one could figure it out, would not allow, also could not lock my car or it would set the alarm. So I disable it. Also my high speed fuel pump went out cost me 900 dollars just for the part, everything cost lot of money, new a/c blower motor for cold and hot air, cost 650, please stay away from these cars, don't be stupid like me🙄 please! Also there 2 fuel pumps the low speed pump in your gas tank and I do love you just have to take back seat off access the pump you don't have to drop the tank, and the high speed pump connected to your fuel rail it needs 1100 psi of gas to run the engine, don't know why it needs that high
Minis are great, only the 2nd gen had a lot of issues. I have an R56, I love it. The high-pressure fuel pump is a known issue on these (not high-speed fuel pump), they're not too hard to replace. The a/c blower can die on any car. I've made a lot of sparks on my r56 at the battery and at the starter, but never ever erased anything. They're great cars just require a lot of maintenance. 3rd gens don't have these issues.
