I have a question , what if you have a person ( skin tone obviously ) AND a bright source of light in the same frame like maybe a billboard or some Led light in the back or something. Would you set your zebras to 100% I’m assuming ? Since the light source is brighter ?
Excellent question, William. I'm going to pin this one as I think it will help some people and is something that I could have clarified in the video. I'd always prioritize the skin tone in the shot for exposure. The only time I wouldn't do that is if I wanted a silhouette shot or something, but generally, if a person is the subject I'd get their skin tone exposed.
@@seandewispelaerethat’s what I meant ! I reversed it by accident always expose for person / skin tones instead of highlights unless you’re going for a silhouette shot or want to preserve highlights for whatever reasoning. But how about if there’s no ( no person ) in the frame and you want to expose for the sunset ? Then that now becomes the subject and you expose for the 100 value ? Since it’s the brightest part of your image ? I’ve shot in slog before just couldn’t get it right I’ve been practicing for a while now trying to dial it in perfectly
@@williamalexanderr You got it, I'd expose a sunset to 85-90 as it isn't a pure white, but yea you're getting it. Very curious how this zebra method treats you. It's been a winner for me.
@@seandewispelaere I’ll keep you posted brother 🙏 will most likely start testing from today - a month from now to make sure I really get it down pack and come back to update you maybe through Instagram or something
I think it’s good to mention that base iso is technically called native iso, and even more importantly, native iso yields the best dynamic range in your image.
Wow! What a well-paced, clear and exceptionally helpful…really educational…video, Sean! Thank you for all the time, effort and energy you must have put in to this in order to help us all-fans, most of whom you don’t even know. For those of us who may be either photography novices or at the very least, new to the a7 IV (I just bought one!), please consider a tutorial on how best to set up this magnificent machine for photography. That would be well received, I am sure; then you could consider a part two focusing on video. Please think seriously about creating such a photography tutorial because few people have the combination of skills that you do, not to mention your clear and impactful delivery style. Keep up the great work…you are obviously doing something that you were meant to do. Lucky us, eh!. Best regards, Will
holy crimson chin! amazing! edit: you had me at the jawline, but MAN this video is the highest of quality with great info, SUBBED! You're gonna be big with these types of vids in no time
I'm confused about the dual baseline iso. I understand that 800 and 3200 have the lowest noise because they are the baseline. But I am not sure why you highlight 10000 and 20000 as having low noise as well, and how those numbers relate to 800 and 3200 .
Hey man great points! Thanks for sharing :) but I’m a little confused, I get we have dual 800 and 3200 but how is it possible to get no noise at 10000 and 20000 when it’s so high compared to the Dual iso? Just a little confused if you can help me that would be amazing!
Great content, thank you, do you recommend recording with slog3 at night? Complying with the dual base iso or it's better without a profile or hlg3 with the sony a7IV
greate explanation ! u gained urself a new sub ! one question so lets say if i have to shoot it a really bad light situation even with iso 3200 its not able to see clearly, do we pump 3200 x 4 which is 12800 iso until we able to see it cearly? thanks !
If I understand correctly, Zebra settings should be different between slog3 and cineStone. Because the clipping point on Slog 3 (95) is different than it is on a standard picture profile (100)
Brother, you should have a million followers. I'm so impressed with the quality of your video, the produciton, the sound, the edit. Bravo! Most people have no idea how much work goes into what you do. Just subscribed. Keep up the amazing work.
@@Steven_John3 I work in marketing for golf courses. That lens is going to be a game changer in getting great shots without having to be right up on the golfers. It looks incredible for wildlife as well!
Thanks, glad you liked it. I should be able to get to that shortly, yes. In short, I just use the AWB lock if I don't know the exact WB and use 5600K when I have a 5600K key light
Hey Sean just got myself an A7iv and rushed straight to this video to learn more about the low light performance. I understood 90% of the video except for at 5:15 where you showcased that 10000 ISO has more noise than 20000 ISO. Why is this the case and is there a similar equation (like how the duo native iso's are multiples of 4x)?
I just tried this with my A7iv and I didn't have any luck. My image is grainy and has so much noise. I wish I could show a screen grab of the shot to show what it looked like before lowering the contrast and cranking the shadows.
I have a question & and i face this Problem all the time 😢.how u correct colour bending problem in low light situation or a dark room? Even when I upload video on RU-vid,it's look horrible with colour bending 😢.i always shoot in s-log3 & expose correctly.also maintain zebra lvl. So,please tell me how I fix this problem🙏
thank you for the video wonderful stuff , i personally think you should elaborate on zone system / zebra method practically in the field on the sky and land (subject ) please ... too many stuff in one video
Hey Sean, Great video! Im wondering if you would think this would apply to the A7rV as well? I know it has much larger sensor at 61mp, you think that would effect the Video?
Sure thing, I use Audiio (audiio.com/partner?oid=1&affid=931) and used a few different tracks in this edit, but the one in the beginning is: Andriy Mashtalir; BreatheSlow Motion
They say, with the same sensor as the FX30 (which had dial native ISO)the 6700 does as well... Unofficially. Should be no reason to shoot in the higher ISO. If you think ya do, your scene is under lighted. I find it interesting that Dp will go with a LOWER Iso in dark scenes to protect the shadows. Crazy huh? 😅
First, thank you for this. It is an excellent video. In part because it's short and therefore condensed. So I have a question please: If shooting S log 3, do NOT change exposure comp, right? Leave it at zero and shoot at a native ISO like 800 or 3200. So adjust aperture to get one of those two ISOs, with camera set in M mode, meaning that its auto-ISO. Do I understand you correctly? Because I have been struggling with S log 3 a LOT. VERY mixed results even in great light with exp. comp at .7 or 1. Also the footage all seems kinda soft and I rarely get focus peaking lines this way. Hoping for any kind of clarity on these issues please, and again, excellent and very helpful video!
Hey James, thanks glad you liked it I happen to have just posted a (long :)) video that will help you a ton with your exact question: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IiX3wWIEzQ0.html Enjoy, let me know if this helps
@@seandewispelaere Ok working through it. Lemme say that using the old method of +.7 or +1 on Esp. comp. dial has given me exceptional results on photos. Really good. But on video, hit and miss at best. So I am working through your method but I think I need a video on how exactly to find the Zebra settings you use and how to map the button that way and how to use it in a kind of practice session so I can get a grip on that without minutes and minutes of frustrating menu searches to get to the settings each and every time I take video. In the field, that isn't a luxury I have to spend a lot of time on settings before I hit record. Again, any help is appreciated and I appreciate the work you have done already. As a long time music teacher, I fully agree that there is a point where you don't get better until you teach, because you need to solve other people's problems before you can understand your subject more deeply. Thanks again.
@@seandewispelaere OK so I watched the long video, and while there is a lot of wisdom in it on a lot of subjects, (as a long time Music teacher I can concur that one doesn't move forward until one teaches as students tend to ask questions we may never have done) but it didn't address my issues I'm afraid. I have found the using S log 3 with a +1 esp. comp my photos are better than ever. I use On1 to grade them. But video is REALLY hit and miss. I need to understand your zebra method and how to rapidly find the controls I need in menus to access the zebras to do as you explain as its still cryptic to me in your videos. I have the A7 IV and will get the A7 V if it ever appears or the A1-2 maybe but for now, just the A7 IV. ANY help appreciated. Do you have a step by step video on HOW to use zebras your way and map them or find them to buttons?
So when using zebras, should we ignore the Manual Meter when it blinks and shows this is way over exposed but zebras don't show is it still fine? That's what's confusing me ATM as I'm just starting out.
I'm not there yet. Still figuring this thing Called Editing. Plus I was never a Photoshop guy either. So you can Add that to the Mix. My main deal was old School Coding, Web Stuff and Vegas Style Graphic. Other Then that. This is a nice camera. Not there yet. I still use a Note8 (old Ultra22 Lost) WE use what we got.
Hi Sean, thanks for the content! I'm Brazilian and I have an A7IV. I can't find the Creators' App in the Brazilian Apple Store on my iPhone 14 pro. Do you know if this app is not compatible with 14 pro?
Hey Sean! I have been an A7IV user for one year now. I shoot a lot of sports and hate the lowlight performance, are you saying 12,800 ISO is just as good as 3200??? how does your Image look perfect at 12800???
@@seandewispelaere is there a better way to talk about this? In all your videos and shorts you say to use 12,800 ISO..... but I thought that was the base ISO for the a7siii........ what color are you shooting in?
@@willgentile Hey Will, I am working on a membership site where I'll be able to expand on some of these things directly with y'all. Are you on my email list for info on that? I expect to have it LIVE in July. Ahhh for the s3, yes, 12,800 is the 2nd base iso which should be very clean from a noise perspective as long as the exposure is nailed. For color, I'm in 422 10-bit SLOG 3 s.gamut3.cine
I love that you covered this! I’m pretty new to all of this but just throwing it out there that slog and rec709 differs by -10. So if you’re light skinned your zebra target in rec709 could be 70 but in slog it would be 60. :)
Thanks, Travis Ah, yes, I think that is exactly why (for the 70 example) it has worked so well for me to use the same exposure values for both log or non-log profiles. It essentially over-exposes the LOG by 10% which, arguably, is enough to leverage the dynamic range. At lease for me, exposing exactly to the values in the chart via zebras has proven to be consistent regardless of log or non-log
I love to record with S-Cinetone, because it’s very practical and fast, otherwise with s-log 3 is not easy to make a perfect exposure every time in different situation… but S-Cinetone on my a7iv have a lot of noise. I’m thinking to switch to a7s iii 😢
Yes Sean! Can you do a video on how to get a moody/dark look. I used to think it was down to the edit/grading (which I’m sure it is; however, I recently took some shot in an extremely bright gym and accidentally increased my shutter speed, instead of dropping my ISO (I’d just re-mapped my custom buttons 😅😒), and the image was this dark, moody, grungy look - I loved it. I’ve tried it since, but by dropping the ISO & keeping my shutter speed double my frame rate & I can’t re-create it. On TOP of this, I saw a video on Instagram of footage looking just how I’d like mine to, in a gym, and I don’t get it 😂 please help. If it helps, I can DM you the videos. Sorry about the long comment!
