Hello, I have a problem, I have a Peugeot Speedfight 1 100cc that recently seized up/heat seized. It was not tuned. I then changed the cylinder, piston etc. It now starts up right away, but after a while it dies all of a sudden (as if you had turned off the key) and then I can start it right up again, this usually happens when I go over 60 km/h or uphill. When I changed the cylinder etc, I also cleaned everything thoroughly, such as the carburettor, intake, new air filter, new fuel filter (there was no fuel filter before) new spark plug. I also removed the oil pump and put a metalplate with a gasket over the hole instead, I now mix the oil directly into the gasoline. Some other info that might be important. - When I drive over 60 km/h, it starts to make a noise from the variator (CVT), it´s sounds quite a lot. - When it died, I tried to start it again while it was rolling and then it started right away, but it made a noise from the variator, like something "let go" that had been seized up, like a rubber sound, maybe from the belt. - The variator belt touches the variator cover on the inside and has grinded a cut in the metal. - In the variator, where the weights are, the belt does not go down to the bottom of the wheel. - The clutch bell had turned blue from the heat. - The place where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft had turned blue from heat. - There was no fuel filter on it before. But i now saw there is an internal fuel filter in the gastank, can it affect the vacuum if you now have 2 fuel filters. Please help me. Regards Andree.
It is really hard to guess what has happened from just reading your explaination but if the variator touches the cover it should have got loose from the variator shaft. Sometimes when the belt slips for a while the variator weights can be so hot that the plastic starts to melt and then the variator won’t work properly anymore. Start with investigating the variator and see if there is something wrong there and move on from that point. Maybe the belt also has worn to a degree where it no longer wide enough so it has to be replaced aswell?
@@fiftynineridge Ok, thanks for the respons. I took it for a testdrive today and after a while it stopped, so i removed the variator cover to check how it looked and the axle where the weights are that goes into the engine was stuck, so i turned it a bit and it let go, and after it was a bit hard to start again. What could this be? I checked the fuel line and the vacuum valve that goes into the gastank and they worked, if it was some bad bearings in the engine would that be enough to stop the engine while running? If it would be some bad bearings wouldn´t that just like vibrate a bit more, and not stop the engine all toghether. Could something in the engine have taken damage when it heatsized? If so what is the most likely to have taken damage.
@@fiftynineridge Hello again, today i opened the cylinder to check, and there was scratches in it, not deep, i could see them but not feel them. So that must have been why it was stuck after it stopped. Does this mean that the crank or bearings are bad? I don´t know what else it could be. Like i said before, i now use premixed fuel with 3% oil, and i have checked the vacuumtap that it worked, i have removed the extra fuelfilter, the carb is cleaned and has the right size jets. It has new airfilter and sparkplug. I saw now that the scratches are pretty wide, one is like in half the cylinder, almost like the pistonring itself has made the wide scratch, could i have stretched them to much when i installed the cylinder?
@@NorthSurvival if you have scratches in the cylinder you need to also check the piston, that’s the softest part and should take most of the abuse during a possible heat seize. You talk about the piston rings during the install on the piston but Did you check the ring gap before install? If the ring gap is to small then you would get problems with heat seizes. The rings need to be able to expand during heat up and they can not expand more than the ring gap, then they will seize. Google ring gap to get proper info on the subject. Regarding the bearings, test if you can wiggle the crankshaft on one of the sides (ex. variator side) if they move alot up/down or in out then they are bad.
@@fiftynineridge Hi, now after i opened it up again i saw that there was scratches in the cylinder and bigger/deeper once in the piston/rings. So that whole cylinderkit for 200$ is trash. I don´t know what to do, maybe the crank got damaged the first time it heatsized, so now it´s not inline. I checked the pistonrings and they had a small gap like they should so they can expand. And i checked the bearings like you said on the variatorside and i could not move it one mm, they where really firm. What do you think, ruled out a lot of things and the only thing left (i think) is that the crankshaft/crankshaft bearings has gotten damaged/out of line. And when i now opened the cylinder it was oil in it and on the piston and in the bottom of the crankcase so i am pretty sure that it get´s the oil it needs, so that can´t be why.
Great videos I've left my speedfight for a little while but I've ordered new parts and will be getting it back on the road and I know these video's will be a great help as if I hadn't seen them I would probably left it sitting in the garage so when the Miss's moans that I've spent to much money, time modifying my Scooter and acting like a teenager I'll point her in your direction, But thanks great video's as there's not a lot out there for the 100cc.
Before you spend a bunch of bucks on a big bore, you should massage the 100cc cylinder. To be honest, there is probably no big difference in top power, the exhaust port is the really big issue and even with a dremel it can be done. I'll try to put up a new video during August and talk a little more about the 100cc cylinder. A friend of mine has messed with a lot of different 100cc setups and found a way to get the same power from a 100cc.
Hey JJ, when you had the rear stripped out, did you see how the long snake lock attaches to the scooter? I lost the keys so want to take it out and replace it with a second-hand lock.
Dear ... I watched your three films while you were working on a general on a Peugeot Speedfight 100cc ... I saw that you installed one axle on the engine block and a shutter that closes that axle. My question is ... is it necessary to put that axle in the oil hole pump or just a shutter is enough. Do you have any design or dimensions so that I could have it done too ... Thanks
HI, do you have any information whether the engine casing on the 100cc and 50cc is the same? They look very similar and my 50cc died recently so i've been thinking to get one of those 125cc kits and use that. Maybe will have to change the crankshaft?
@@plastraket123 Never had one up close. But they do really look identical even the gasket between the cylinder and the casing looks the same. 100cc is probably bigger though.
Hi where did you get the head cylinder ? It's not available in France. Here, We're trying hard to break the fu.... rule of limitation by 50cc in our country. An upgrade to 125 CC will be so lovely :) please help
Xavier Chatelet Hi there, I got mine from Germany, www.racing-planet.de/cylinder-kit-airsal-sport-125cc-55mm-for-peugeot-speedfight-100-p-272588-1.html?backcPathco=16&cPath=706_29738 They also got the Malossi 120cc if tou prefer that one. They only fit on the 100cc engine, not the 50cc
I have a speedfight 50cc, i wanna swap it to 100cc What engine fits without any problem does Vivacity 100cc engine fit? Elyseo 100cc? Speedfight 100cc? Trekker 100cc? x-fight 100cc? what fits. I assume that the 50cc frame is the same as 100cc frame
Justin Reid www.puchshop.de/puch-engine-parts/puch-clutch-parts/clutch-puller-inside-rotor.html it’s quite easy even to build one yourself with some scrapmetal and drill etc.
Thanks for the reply! The one on that website is out of stock and I can imagine them being easy enough to make but I just don’t have the tools to do it :/
Justin Reid my friend google tells me that there is another shop that has it in stock 😀 www.racing-planet.de/avdragare-svaenghjul-aprilia-suzuki-am6-ebe-ebs-d50b-p-246736-1.html
elle have you one idée to the diagrame origine for Peugeot 100cc i'm have one vivacyti i change exoste and transmition now i whant see for diagrame because i'm have 2cylindre and possibiliti to make alu pieces for cylindre and cut the top and after change carburator sorry for reating i'm frenche
@@fiftynineridge sorry have you programme to the head cylindre you make one fusione 360it's for make maby same head cylindre one frein have machine for this in frenche the name it's same to map sorry i Don't no exacly expretion in English maby you can translate (dossier )
I'm not sure of your exact question but I have demounted the whole oil pump and the drive shaft for it already before and then milled out a aluminum cover for the pump in my cnc mill. I'm not planning for to have an oil pump in the furure either, they are just not reliable enough when tuning hard. I like to mix oil and fuel manually instead, because I can only then feel surtain about that the mix is the right one. I use about 3% oil in the gasoline.
