I've spent over 2 grand trying to get my car tuned from different "esteemed" shops and tuners. Your videos have been a saving grace of being able to do this shit myself. Thank you!
I guess Im asking randomly but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot my login password. I love any tips you can give me
I'm just getting into tuning, and wanted to tell you that your videos have been extremely helpful. Glad there are people like you out there sharing info with the rest of us.
I have a pontiac G8 that I had someone else tune after a cam swap/stall and everything needed. And it runs terrible! All he was worried about was wide open pulls and would pat himself on the back about how hard it pulls, thats all good but if you can't cold start it and keep it running its pointless. Ive taken it back twice to fix the issues and still nothing so I decided im going to attempt it myself since I do 90% of my own work and I've always wanted to learn tuning. I have not done anything too the car as of yet but your videos have explained so much, I very much appreciate it. Keep the videos coming.
I paid a well known Mopar tuner for an e 85 tune on my challenger. He kept changing injector scaling and PE, but never changed the Fuel/Air ratio from .0680 to .1015, so it was doomed from the start. That is the reason I decided to learn how to tune myself with Hp tuners and advice from educated people like Goat Rope Garage here. Thanks man!
daniel wright this isn’t apples to apples as it’s not same software or engines. But I normally off the bat set target AF, do a small wot pull and set injector scaling to match in mid range, then go back to speed density table. Sort of as a sanity check.
@@jedpratte Mopar is a little backwards compared to other platforms. I turned of Neural Network, tuned VE using st+lt fuel trims at low rpm, and Wot/ Pe with a Wideband in Lambda. I am currently tuning everything above idle with open loop VE so the PCM will stop trying to pull fuel at high load low rpm or throttle transitions.
@@danielwright8075I see. and yes at low rpm and load I also tune off fuel trims not the wideband. But our cars when in open loop at wot completely ignore fuel trims and go directly off what the VE table is.
I’m trying to learn how to tune for people I know because all they have been doing is just buying them “mail-in tunes” or going to someone that say they are “good” and my buddies cars seems to come out worse the weeks after they get the tune. And your videos have tought me plenty of info so thats why I subscribed.
Kyle, my MAF curve looked exactly like that when I was trying to tune when my MAF was failing. It wouldn't go over 12KHz either, would go lean after that. Finally my LTFT's went lean too. Swapped to new OEM MAF, everything fixed, maf curve looks normal after retune, and goes to 13KHz at 14 psi.
Zl1's have dod disabled from the factory. That power enrichment table is much leaner then factory. Factory PE is 1.270 up to 5250rpms above that goes to 1.345 multiplier. Also the knock sensor table look like factory numbers.
Well sitting here at lunch and I decided to watch this video and compare notes to my setup. Damn if they didn't copy the high octane to the low octane. These videos so far been a saving Grace I am signing up to that monthly deal
Nothing against tuner shops, but when i did my tuning course by a “big name” school, the first thing we learned: if the customer is present during the run, plug in your software, remove all timing. Do a run, show him the pathetic numbers and slowly put it back it and maybe get him a few horses beyond stock without pushing the limits. Then blame something on the car that is the “hold back” exhaust, injectors, intake etc. The name of the game is do not break an engine on your dyno. All it takes is one, no matter what the cause of death was it will be somehow the tuners fault. This is only for “normies” with a stockish car. Race teams and people that understand the risks involved with strapping a car to the rollers, yes they get what they want. It may make many sick on the stomach, but it is what it is. My advice, if you are taking your car to get tuned, learn about tuning. Just a bit. Enough to show the tunner that you are somewhat familiar with what he is doing. If you get lucky, and there are many of us out there, a tuner will show you every step on of the process. Of couse, depends on shop safety rules and other dumb stuff. IMO, too much drama. Learn how to do it yourself. If you want to impress your buddies with dyno numbers, print out a damn sheet and be done with it. Good luck. ABT.
Listen I got my VW Passat B5 tuned I did a lot of research into where I wanted to go I made calls and spoke and asked questions. I was very carful and asked around went to car meets and spoke to people and RaceMod did some fantastic service. They not only tuned but replaced what broke if it did with no charge to me. If you live in the Ohio area I totally recommend RaceMod
So awesome man, nobody takes their time without charging for this info. If I could shake your hand in person I would. I’ve learned so much from you in the last few months. Thank you. If you ever want to check another let me know. My lsa G8 made 630 and showed knock constantly. 😞
Andre at HP Academy is an advocate of disabling LTFT's, stating that if your scaling is correct and you've done your job, then allow STFT's to do what they do for small errors, but avoid having LTFT's become active, because if they make a lean correction adjustment, then that adds to the PE/Open Loop fueling. Therefore theoretically a small amount of consistent deviation in part throttle, would then affect your WOT tune by adding fuel where you don't want it. LTFT's won't reduce fuel on Open loop, but he states it will add fuel. What say you? I disable LTFT's.
Had my 2011 Silverado 5.3 tuned on a dyno. Has stage 3 btr cam with supporting valve train long tubes no cats and 2800 yank stall converter. Truck fights idle from time to time and check engine light keeps coming on pulling a code for map sensor I’ve changed it 3 times and with the ac on the stall out is crazy. It has true duals as well know this video is 3 years old but I’m thinking about ordering hp tuners and trying it my self.
so I looked at a buddy's and my own current tune files point by point as this video played. Both have the torque limits maxed out. My car has the commanded AFR set to nearly double (I'm assuming this was a work around for the 1050x injectors on E38 ECM). The EQ ratio isn't as r.aped as the one you showed, but it looks like it may have experienced a minor s.exual a.ssault. I even made some tables as indicated on the Gen4 MAF tuning video and loaded up an old datalog. got some weird data there.. I'm going to have to dig in some more before I speculate. Anyway, so far, loving the videos.. I wish I'd found them sooner! Now I want to go drive around in all my GM vehicles to start tuning on them a little at a time. Oh, and do you think you'll do any Toyota tuning vids? (If you have already, I apologize, I haven't looked for them yet.)
Hey man, love the videos looking at trying to get into tuning myself as it’s something I find great interest in! Are you self taught and is the hptuners universal to all platform cars or just for aftermarket ecus? I’m based in (UK) once I can afford to I am definitely going to support your channel any way I can, thank you and keep up the great work been subbed as long as I can remember
Man, I'm in this right now. I bought a modded C6Z that the previous owner had a "pro" tune it. Tons of cam surge, fans on constantly, high idle, etc. I installed a wideband and luckily my AFR was good. Have a close friend who tunes NASCAR for a living (with some LSx tuning experience) and his comment was "he raped your PE table." Instead of tuning the high MAF, the guy just got it on the dyno, and kept pumping up the commanded numbers until the AFR was right. The "pro" did scale my low MAF (high was stock) but did it badly. Timing seems conservative with a couple small trouble areas I need to address. Disabled tons of codes unnecessarily. Set the fans to max out before the car was even up to temp. Disabled long term fuel trims. If he did any speed density tuning, it was minimal at best. I'm just at the point of beginning to make tuning corrections, starting with getting the MAF right and getting my PE table to actually command the lambda I want. I'd hate to think how much this "pro" hack was paid.
Hey man, love your videos and appreciate the time you take to make quality videos. I myself am very new to tuning, I was wondering if you could look at some tunes of the Ford 3.5L Ecoboost. I would be more than happy to use my own logs of recent and would be very appreciate if you made a couple of videos for all the Ecoboost guys because there isn't a lot of content on them!
My stock tune has a MAF curve similar to the one in the video. I'm taking this Kung Flu break to learn how to tune. I still can't wrap my head around this stuff.
Yeah I got me a new laptop and soon an mpvi2. I think I got screwed on my ls2 gto. 550 bucks they did 1 dyno pull. Sent me packing to break in the clutch. Had a few low rpm issues. Went back he took the car for like 30 min and it was done. Still have 1 low rpm issue. Not happy. I am going to look it over and log some stuff and see if I can get help. The videos have been very helpful.
I can tell you why a lot of tuners dont tune VE is because either people are too cheap to pay for it OR the tuner doesnt know how to. Those are the same tuners who wont even ATTEMPT to tune a Mopar. Mopar is all VE based on either MAP or PR (Ive seen both...). VE/VVE tuning takes more time but it makes a HUGE improvement in driveability...
Being I tune dsms on SD we are all VE based off temp and pressure. Not sure why people try to avoid it. I think it’s easier once you learn how to correctly set up all the base values. It just is tough if you scale injectors wrong or don’t build a AF target table.
@@jedpratte I feel where you're coming from. But in the GM world, a lot of guys tune MAF only and say F it. Especially with the Gen 4 ECMs. They have MAFs with extended range and can handle airflow reversion from lumpy cams.
Hi there loving these videos, can you tell me with HP Tuners is it possible to disable stuff for example 2nd oxygen sensor(cat monitor)or EGR ? …. Many Thanks 👍
Just a quick question, I have been watching your videos for the last few days. I have an 05 5.3 4L60e in my C10. It runs and drives pretty good after I have made some changes but have seen some things I may have been doing wrong. I have the original tune from when I first got the computer flashed which ran well too. My wideband will be here Monday. The question is would you go back to that tune (minus settings for gear changes) and start fresh? Thanks for the great videos!
Same thing happened to me. I stroked and cam'd my engine and took it to a local shop for the tune and have been battling lean conditions ever since. Im so tired of hacks not gaf so i bought hp and figured id just learn how to do it right myself. Any advise or help you can provide on remapping my injector timing and afr would be great
Hey man, I’ve gone through for two hours here in the DFW area in the last tuner really was garbage. Correct me if I’m wrong but why would my mass airflow sensor be completely? We’re almost desensitized. If you disconnect it doesn’t affect the truck. What’s the weather?? Lol
The reason disabling LTFT is extremelyyyyy common is... When you go WOT the pcm disables closed loop. But it still applies LTFT corrections. So they turn off LTFT to avoid any unwanted corrections during WOT, and make sure the engine is running only off the fuel map you made. You see this pretty often 🤷♂️
Goat Rope Garage it only happens at WOT. If there are long term trims hit and saved before you go into wot the pcm will apply the long terms to those cells despite you being in closed loop. So while oscillating is obviously disabled the saved trims are still applied then the PE multiplies the combo of the base table+saved ltfs. I can’t say all pcms do it but most do.
I am by no means a pro and actually need to ask you some simple questions. My friend of mine had his 2017 C7 tuned by LMR. Has a YSi-V7 and is supposedly pushing 900hp. First thing I saw when i opened the hood was a stock MAP 1BAR sensor. Next was a non broke out BARO. The tune was MAF only with STFT disabled on a 1 BAR setup.
Ha! I didn't copy my high and low octane tables😎 I just tuned a 2006 4.8 with a truck norris cam and I think I got it running pretty good. I am a total newb, 3 days into learning how to tune with hptuners. You should see what I did lol
Do you think you could look over a tune on a '19 Infiniti Q50 V6 twin turbo. Was tuned with Ecutek software and would be logging their parameters. I'm having some daily driving issues that don't look right and other issues with low rpm knock, ignition timing correction, TCM codes and a PCM code.
I also don’t have the right mass air flow sensor in the 102mm size and since it’s getting the twins next winter I think I should just go speed density now. How does your remote tune work? Thanks Mike
How are you with the Ford platform? Gen1 gen2 and gen3 Coyote? HP Tuners. I've done a few but the gen3 has so much more than the older versions. I've seen tunes from big name tuners a lot of questionable things. And nobody seems to have an answer for tuning the speed density maps. Most just lock a number in for anything over n/a load for boost. If you can be helpful I wouldn't mind spending the 15 bucks a month.
Not that familiar but I know what you're talking about and that is the biggest pain in tuning in that platform, really would like to do more but I can't get myself to buy a Ford, lol
I would have bet high and low octane were the same. Most "performance tunes" I seen were just a lot of maxed out or zeroed out tables to keep the engine from cutting power.
is it possible there was a vacuum leak (unmetered air) and at low RPM the lean condition is more prevalent and at high RPM the vacuum leak is less noticeable because of the high amount of air going into the engine.Will Lambda sensor see the unmetered air and add more fuel at low rpm and as more air enters at higher rpm the vacuum leak is not noticed by the lambda sensor and the STFT straighten out. Great video and top work. keep up the great content . im learning a lot .Thanks
haha, i started watching your videos ended up taking a dive into hptuners. last year i paid $350 for a dyno tune, i opened it up a couple weeks ago to do a segment swap and low and behold it was set to maf only open loop. right away i knew i got took.
I would have been suspicious at the price point for a dyno tune. Shops near me are $500 for basic stuff up to $750 for fully built or boosted applications.
I got a new build and hptuners. It’s a 2006 LS2 actually it’s a van engine a 6.0 with some mod’s such as cam, springs, intake, long tubes, 80# injectors etc and I’m going twin turbo soon but I need help with the initial tune. Can you help with remote tuning if so what do you charge poor people? Thanks! Mike
Not sure where to ask this question. But, when tuning... If a car has sport mode, eco mode, traction control disable selections. What mode should the tuning be done in? I didnt ask myself this until I already did, maf, sd, idle, spark tuning. Now I'm thinking i may have to go back and put my car in sport mode for all tuning. I typically never use sport mode but wouldnt that be using the most basic of all tables?
Love the info. I took a 2012 5.3l and put it in my 2007 4.8l gen 4 truck. I used the same harness and ecm that was in the truck. Started it up and it started. But I had to give it pedal to get it to stay running. Then slowly let off the throttle and it idled but it surges. I took a stock repository file of a 2012 5.3l and transfered the Info to the pull file. Now it cranks and it engages the starter like so.eone is holding the key. Drive by wire. Can you give me any tips on what to look for? I changes the stoich across the table to 14.63. And adjusted the spark table to 20 at top left and 18 bottom right of table. Did delete and COT delete.
Although I haven’t used that software nor do I tune much outside of 4g63. I am well used to speed density. Deff not a smooth table. Honestly I feel like speed density is easiest to tune once you get used to how it functions.
If you could, would you show basics for tuning a obd1 c4? I'm hoping to get an 84-87 and I'll need some advice to get a tune running with higher compression and slightly higher valve lift. If you already have one could you link it? I apologize if I haven't looked hard enough, this will be my first tune, so it will be very mild, but I do want to know the limits.. going for 93, will probably get 112 in case I run into knock to give me a cushion while I pull timing.
Knock, it will extrapolate towards to low octane when knock is detected, the amount of knock determines how fast it moves towards the low octane table along with some other settings that control the shift rate.
I have a 18 camaro ss with a tsp vvt2 cam with the supporting mods to go with it, including e85 sensor and tune. Im not so certain my tune is 100% complete either, The shop who installed it was for sure in a rush to get me in and out the door. What would you charge to look at my tune file if I sent it to you? I do have the capability to the save file and email it to you.
Need a programmer for a 2002 ford thunderbird. Tried SVT and other brands as well, tripped the pas anti theft system before even downloading the stock tune. Can't find any compatible tuners on the web. What's the big secret? Anyone know why a simple tuner won't work on this model car when they work on almost any other model ford?
Thanks for the knowledge sir. I am having some trouble with the tune on my 2017 Mustang 5.0 aftermarket intake oil catch, stage 7 stagger rims with Mickey Thompson street tires. Tune e85r I purchase with the tune. I have the bama programmer. I had to put a new transmission and full clutch assembly. The car does not seem to have the reaction time and hesitation when pressing the gas. Runs lean I did not know there was a flextune I am not sure if we upgraded the injectors to 47lb injectors just had some questions and was hoping maybe you could help me tune the car correct. I have not drove the car much since I picked it up to get the new transmission Thanks
I recently got my wrx 05 tuned, the data log is showing Knock Correction under boost from -1.5 to 10, is that normal? My tuner has not given me an answer yet 😕
Hey Kyle do you have any experience with tunerpro rt and 5.7l ls1 mafless tunes? Would be over the moon to have some help from someone of your capabilities.
Kyle my Silverado still has bucking I’ve tried everything bu can’t get it done, something is over riding my spark when I see numbers at 2 in timing my chart is bottoms out my air I tried high low and still no help fuel is usually rich and some cutting fuel on ltf trims I don’t know how to do a better table yet but that’s what I need
For my O2 sensor setting, there is no Mili volts setting. There is only temperature settings in Fahrenheit. The current number is 41 F. The minimum is -41 F and the max is 247 F. For mileage purposes, what should that number be?
i was wondering if you could give me some pointers. I’ve been trying to tune my Evo 8 and had some questions. Mainly just scared and want someone to tell me to do it.
Would it still be a dangerous tune if the short term fuel trim were opposite being negative as in pulling out a lot of fuel on my table there’s times it pulls out -39% the guy that tuned my car did exactly what you’re saying he put car on dyno and did two pulls and drove around the block said it was good to go. Sad part is he has his own school for tuning that he teaches at a lot of colleges too just hope he’s not teaching people to do the same
I had my 2015 mustang gt tuned with a 350gt intake manifolds. Not even 100 mile later. Check engine lights are on. Code is a lean code. Today the check engine light is blinking. And car is going into like a lump mode but then goes off. Help lol
The tune in my car is shit. However, the short term trims are super rich, not lean. It used to idle at 2.5L/h, now it idles at 6.5L/h. Also hunts at idle, dips down to 400rpm, then comes up to 2000rpm, and will settle around 1600rpm. Very rarely does it idle anywhere near a normal range.
How to spot a bad tune >>> Get your 2011 Silverado extended cab 4.8L single 70mm turbo and built 4L80E back from the tuner after being there for 5 months and being charged $3k and then it going into reduced power mode if revved while cold, if you try to do a burnout or if you try to give it hard throttle, many codes including a P0606, fuel pump basket hacked when they installed the new fuel pump so it acts up below 1/4 tank, speed density tuned, guy helping me out now was barely able to pull the file from the ECM before he couldn't access it anymore, etc... Yeah, reputable shop my A$$. I've learned people are crooks and what's bad is I still after over a month of having my truck back cannot drive my truck, I cannot get a dyno sheet or graph from the tuner, cannot be told what the timing was, A/F ratio, etc... Y'all be careful who tunes your stuff because even a reputable shop may not be honest at all.
Ask questions. On the forums for your platform is a good one to start. Also ask the tuner questions, what the process they use is, they should be willing to be detailed and if they aren't they are probably hiding something. You can also ask for references. I could provide a few customer references easily for a prospective client.
I went to AMP (Advanced Modern Performance) in Grand Prarie. I can say based on my past experiences with other tuners , AMP has provided the best custom tune I've had by far! Not sure what vehicle platform your wanting tuned but typically they work on mostly GM
I was using this to compare my tune. And under tq mgmt overboost limit is set to 6042 across all rpm is this really bad? This is for a Camaro SS 1le 2019
how can I find out if a tuner is good or not? I live in SoCal high desert area. there is a tuner up here but hoping somebody might know a place in SoCal area i can go to and know I will get quality work done
I been a bit curious, can a ecm pull timing as the trans shifts gears, to prevent tire slip, and make it a bit easier on the trans clutches? I am about to start a project. And program myself to some point, I'm doing what research I can I'm not sure what generation ecm I will be using, but it will be a stock GM, with LS engine, the gains per dollar is just insanity! It will likely be a stock engine with turbo, and most likely a cam, with 10-15psi, with a moderate intercooler, I thought about a 25-50hp wet nitrous shot, to aid in intercooling mostly, great video! Thanks for the info!
From what I've seen in E38s and E67s, they will pull timing and/or close throttle on shifts via TQMGT (Torque Management). You CAN lessen the the effects of TQMGT in the tune file. Im pretty sure the older ECMs will can do the same (timing or throttle, depending on whether youre running a DBW or DBC ECM). I wouldnt reduce it too much. I did that in my personal vehicle and starting breaking stuff...
My lftf dont work on my Silverado p59. Everything is on and enabled but they dont long. Only thing i cant think possibly is i got them for $40/ea off rock auto and they dont work right
Love your videos, but I think we need to make it clear to the viewers that 1.2 in the power enrichment is not rich for a boosted car. That's pretty lean as it converts to 12.2 AFR. Under max torque it should really be in the 11s during PE enable. Maybe you were thinking of an NA build? Having said that, if their MAF tuning was off it may have run richer or leaner in boost depending.
.83 lambda is plenty rich, people like to bandaid bad tuning by running the PE overly rich as opposed to spending the extra hour to actually dial things in.
@@GoatRopeGarage I will try bringing my PE down a bit and see if I get any knock and go from there. LS2 with an LSA. I figure, within reason, go as reasonably lean as I can without knock for good power. Always been told 11.65 was good target for boost.
Is there any reason for anyone to turn of the fuel enrichment when tuning a car? More specifically a factory supercharged car that just got a bigger supercharger installed ? Asking for a friend lol
I've only just started tuning on a Holley system, learning lots along the way. Even with my limited knowledge the moment I saw that VE table I cried a little bit.
Hello i have Pontiac g8 2009 ls 6.0 And i Thinking a have bad tune on my car I did the dod delete and cam stage 2 btr And one Guy came tune my car with hp tuner
Who the king to tuning my car in the quebec with my hp tuners mpvi2.. need someone absolutly ? I dont have enought expérience and dont want shitty my new engine
If I were to send you a tune of my car, do you think you would be able to look over it and give me some pointers? My car runs very rich at wide open throttle but it runs good while cruising, I would like to learn how to tune but I just don't really know enough to be comfortable to do it
Im feeling very hosed after watching your video. Iv got a 99 gmc Sierra 4.8ls i just installed a very expensive cam kit along with headers, 3200 stall and i payed $450 for a "dyno tune" and after him having my truck 2weeks he finally called and said i could come pick it up and its running great.... 1st off i had to give it some throttle to get it started and then after it got up to temp i put it in gear and it was doing 35mph without my foot even touching the throttle, its idling at 950rpms and almost pushing me through stop signs. After i get it home i rev it in my driveway and the rpm drop is extremely slow so i contact my "tuner" and tells me to drop it back off and he will correct the issues, he has now to date had my truck almost another 3 weeks and have heard nothing from him. Do you have any advice i can use in this issue?
Brian, hate to hear this. Some vehicles can be hard to tune and then some people aren't very good Tuners. At least they are trying to make it right, but it never should of been considered done until you drove it and said it was done. As we modify we can create driveability issues but your tuner should be able to explain why those issues exist and why they can't be fixed in the tune. It is a give and take. But, long story short, my guess is they are trying to do a MAF only tune, which a cam hates on the bottom end, so they had to raise the idle way to to get it to even idle and that put it high enough to push through your upgraded converter.
Michigan motorsports absolutely screwed me on a pcm mail order tune and they won’t give me a refund. 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 lm7. Absolutely screwed me and claimed it was a custom tune. My truck runs like dog crap now. I did a camshaft swap and have them every piece of info they could possibly of ever needed to do a proper tune and from watching your videos I believe they did a lot of copy and pasting. I need help and everyone in my area seems the same. They want your money for shit work and half ass tuning
