This guy is GREAT ! Very engaging and to the point. No dogs, little kids, dazzling effects or weird music, just the facts in a very organized and clearly presented manner. His recommendations are clear and specific and it appears he really knows what he is doing and how to produce an instructional video. He also appears to be a nice guy! Much thanks....
Thanks. I've been involved with this sort of thing for quite a while now. Guess I must have learned a few things myself. This video is an oldie but goodie.
The gift that keeps on giving. I have expressed similar sentiments after viewing a well crafted informative tutorial however your choice of words are a fine example of the very message being sent. I’m tempted to cut&paste and call it my own. But me thinks it’s enough to spread the good word. Thank you Sir’s
I agree with you. I just discovered his channel and am very pleased he's not one of those who overshare and tell you the whole story about their lives, divorces, moves, etc. He gets to the point and shares very useful info about the subject matter.
This guy could take up a secondary career as a teacher of some kind. I find his explanations to be of the highest quality. I am learning some great things here that should improve the output of my orchard here in Michigan.
Thanks Mike, I'm glad that I was able to help. There is nothing like having a healthy high yielding orchard. Being a teacher is easy if your audience is receptive. Bill
Thank you so much for your easy to follow and down to earth instructions..Enjoyed hearing about these issues affecting our apples and pears..We have a small orchard here on our property in S.W. Oregon that's Organic and will be healthier with your advice..
+motocephalic You are welcome. Glad to hear you could make some use of the info. I grow a lot of different crops but apples are one of my favorite plants. They grow almost anywhere. They taste great and are good for you. There are so many different kinds and they are flexible about how they are used. I can't say enough praise for apples. It is an honor for humans to associate with the tree. Enjoy learning how to grow them. Bill
Great information, Bill. Your lessons are far superior and insightful to reading a label or even an extension guide on pest management. Spinosad is good stuff. I've used it to treat Citrus Leaf Miner on my lemon tree.
This is one of the best videos yet. As soon as I saw you pic I knew I would be getting great advice. I live up in New England and it's hard getting good advice from some apple growers. Thanks again. We have numerous fruit trees and a over 10,000 square foot garden.
Thanks for the feed back, glad I could help. I have a few fruit crops that are high on my list but it is hard to beat the apple. There are a few types that will actually grow in all 50 states, they are good dry, fresh or cooked and many store well. Not to mention that for the early American settlers this was the primary source of alcohol. We have 52 varieties in my CA orchard and 2 in HI. All hail the apple. Bill
Thank you, I am pleased the video was helpful. If you look through the 169 videos on ru-vid.com you will notice I grow a lot of different crops between CA & HI but there is a special place in my heart for apples. I have several other videos on apples and plan to post more. I will be up dating my apple pruning video this winter. Bill
Thank you a ga-jillion times over for keeping it simple. I'm new to spray programs and was so confused by all the pests and timing. And don't want to go down the scary neonicotonide / carbaryl path - trying to avoid that since my urban orchard is so tiny.
New to apples - i live in the city and am doing espalier (no room ugh). This is the first video i clicked on after searching for info on an apple spray ‘program’ and man-oh-mercy this is awesome. Subscribed - thank you!
You are very welcome. I live in Hawaii these days but I still grow apples! I got started with them back in the Midwest and continued while living in CA. One of my favorite fruit trees. Enjoy the channel, lot of stuff here.
Horticultural oil and Spinosad are available in many different packages from many different sources. Which brand you use depends more on what is available than on any specific brand. www.amazon.com/Bonide-Products-210-Horticultural-Concentrate/dp/B000BX4RNW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1531604143&sr=8-2&keywords=all+seasons+oil www.amazon.com/dp/B000BWY3OQ/ref=psdc_707165011_t1_B00FH4CYB2
Watching your videos helps out! Our season here in Alabama is running behind yours. Our pear tree is flowering now. I believe they started opening yesterday. Though I wasn't able to finish pruning the beast.
I'm glad the videos where a help to you. The only problem with continuing to prune after bud break is emergence of soft tissue in the canopy. The fresh buds break off easily while dragging wood out of the tree. If you are gentle at removing the branches you can continue to prune with no serious harm to the tree. The idea that fruit tree pruning can only be done in the dormant season is a myth. Check out Dave Wilson's videos on summer pruning. Dave is a major producer of bare root fruit trees here in CA and has long advocated the idea of summer fruit tree pruning.
The Pineapple Guava does make a great hedge I have a couple in the back of my yard to block light and noise from the Post Office. They haven't been watered, fed or sprayed in 16 years and bear great crops. Bugs don't like it and neither do the birds. Hachiya is a fine Persimmon if you like them soft. I like Fuyu because you can eat it either crunchy or soft. Since I am self employed I get around. I set my own work and vacation schedules
My dad's backyard orchard needs some spraying for his apple trees. This video came across in my research, and wow, this guy knows his stuff! Garden Guy, I also checked out some of your music. I like it a lot!
Most Californians that grow pears, apples and walnuts are plagued with this pest. If you get the program just right it only takes a spray or two of spinosad bacteria to do the trick. Timing is the key. The breeding varies from year to year so using a pheromone lure trap to determine when the moths are around helps. Bill
Interesting, I grow both walnuts and apple and I have never seen codling moth in the walnuts only Walnut Husk fly. You are correct, codling moth will attack walnuts but in my yard they seem to only like apples and pears. Make sure to use some Spinosad with the oil on your walnuts and clean up any nuts that fall. The worms will survive the compost heap so dispose of them by burying or sending to the dump.
Excellent Job With this specific information. We will follow the steps you have outlined. We have a kind of Tent caterpillar on a plum tree webbed over the leaves and branches on the outer upper parts. They look more like giant inch worms with green tips than what's shown here on the videos. The Tree is are only about 8 yrs old and just now beginning to fruit along with another plum and 2 apples. This is in the prairies in Northern Iowa where it's more damp and there's a constant 25 MPH SE wind from late may till late june 85% of the time. It's also now becoming dry with no rain. Temps are in the mid to high 80's The leaves and blooms appear in mid may. We're using a pump sprayer with a quart of vinegar in a gallon of water to shut em down. The tree's already half defoliated. There's minimal fruit on these trees which just started last year.
Vinegar is used as an herbicide in organic growing, never as an insecticide. I kill weeds with 41% vinegar here in Hawaii. Use water to knock them down. You are going to do some real damage to the tree with acetic acid.
@@GreenGardenGuy1 They must have all died from the vinegar water mix. I soaked the areas real well and then we had 2.9 inches of rain last night at sundown as it would go and now the webs are almost not there and the innards are brown remains and just drying up on the branches. Thanks for all your advice and attention.
@@SaltGrains_Fready So put vinegar on the other list in the garden, it is a plant killer, not an insecticide. Soap can be an insecticide but in larger amounts and mixed with vinegar it is one heck of an herbicide. People do more damage than good with home made controls. Consider using a bacteria next time you have a worm problem. It only kills bugs.
@@GreenGardenGuy1 Will Do. We appreciate your channel and contribution to the world very much. We will watch the many others that are applicable to the things being grown here.
Proved your troubles are only the ones I have discussed, correcting them isn't too difficult. Once you have a control program everything should work out. Bill
Thanks a lot Bill! You mentioned the end of April to spray. Should I wait until next year, or can I spray the mix any time except when flowers are on the trees? I am in Fresno CA.
Hi Bill, you give the best gardening advice on the net, your awesome, thanks so much for making your wonderful videos. Just wondering if you see moths on the trap does that mean spray asap? Also on average how many times a year do yo spray oil/spinosad mixture?Thanks heaps
As usual I will encourage you to read the labels on the products and also review local agricultural college websites on the subject. As far as my information, one of the reasons my info is good is I usually follow my own advice! Do the research at reputable sources and question most information you find until it has proven accurate in your garden. The Coddling moth traps attract only the male moths. Breeding and egg laying us usually done about 2 weeks after the first moths show up in the traps. So the usual guide line is start the spray program two weeks after the first moth. Most Spinosad products are labeled for 10 to 14 day intervals between spray applications and no more than 6 applications per year. If the moths stop showing up in the traps then you can put away the sprayer. It depends on where you live as to how many generations of breeding moths you get every year. I CA we had two, one around April to June and another in July and August. This required two sets of traps and two sets of spray. I usually omitted the second spray because the first would have cut the population down and the late attack could be salvaged by processing the fruit.
Thank you for your quick answer GreenGardenGuy1, can you please tell me what can I use for caterpillars? like hard shell they are eating all my Leafs. and also what is malathionn good for ? and thank you again.
Very informative!! Love the video....Im looking to plant a high density orchard in the next year, and I was wondering at what age does a tree need to start being sprayed? Im going to start with 5 different varieties, and plant 100 apple trees, and probably 20 peach trees. what advice would you give a southeast Tennessee country boy.
Fruit trees receive spray for one reason or another from the first year they are planted. In the case of the peaches most of us can't grow this tree properly unless we address the peach leaf curl fungus from the first dormant season onward. The young apples may or may not have insect trouble in the first year depending on the environment. I lived in Tennessee as a child but never grew trees there. You might have woolly aphid troubles or Japanese beetles to deal with. A winter dormant spray is always used no matter what. The only thing that will not be an issue for the first few years is spray for fruit pests.
thats what i call living the life! yeah it may be about plus or minus ten yearz but our Pguave is about 40 years old along with out two orange trees, very old but there on tehre way out, the Pguavas however luuks like healthy young tree's. i love to bake with the hachiya persimmon around thanksgiving and xmas cause you gotta wait till there super soft, never eaten a persimmon like a non astrigent yet. thanks for the vids and everything else like yourr time. Off to amend the Hardpan dirt!
Sob!!! I have 2 Asian pear trees here in North Metro Atlanta and I didn't realize I had fire blight until I watched your video. I thought I may have had gotten a late freeze that damaged the young tender growth after flowering. Also have some bitter rot on the fruit this year. Looks like I need to start a program and take better care of my trees!
Sorry to hear about the damage. Sometimes we need to walk the hard road in order to find the truth. Fire blight is a pain but not impossible. Do your research and learn all about it. Plant pears that are resistant and control the disease as early as it shows up. Remember you can move it with your tools if you don't clean them.
Thanks, should I wait until winter to prune back or can I do it now. The problem is that there are many branches that have both good leaves and dead ones. Besides the brown leaves, there doesn't appear to be any disease on the bark. How do I treat for the dead leaves besides cutting off the branches, or should I just wait for the leaves to fall off and prune in the winter.
Hey Bill, I moved into a new VT home and found out my yard has 1 Wolf River Apple Tree and 2 Macoun's. They're within 50 feet of eachother, but I'm concerned there wont be enough for cross-pollination? Also, I didn't know they were apple trees until it was too late, I never sprayed or pruned the 1st year. Only a few apples have appeared and many leaves are brown. Should I bother doing anything this summer/fall, or just wait and prune in the winter and start from scratch next spring?
Bill, you mention in this video of applying the dormant oil with Spinosad. What is the ratio of each into my 2 gallons pump sprayer? I am in the Midwest and need to take care of the Apple Maggot problem. Also, my neighbor has a peach tree with a Peachtree Borer problem. Would it be OK to use the same mix for his problem as well? Thanks again!
+roman gloman Roman, Follow the mixing instruction on both oil and spinosad bottles and combine them. I can't give you the recipe because that depends on the concentration of the product you have in hand. We are lucky to be free of Apple Maggot on the West Coast but they were a real pest when I lived in Wisconsin. Here is information on control, you will need to buy or make some traps for them. Monitor and spray You can use a sticky red sphere trap as a way of monitoring apple maggot presence in your orchard, so that you can spray an insecticide at the right time to control the flies. In a small planting, you should hang one trap at eye level on the outside of the tree canopy, facing any wooded area nearby, or facing south. Many other insects will also get stuck, some of them small flies with similar wing markings, so learning to positively identify the apple maggot fly is very important. Check the trap frequently. If you do not use a scent lure, spray for apple maggots as soon as you catch a single adult. If you hang a trap with a lure, wait until you have caught a total of five flies, whether they are all caught at once or one at a time. Effective insecticides available for apple maggot control are esfenvalerate, carbaryl, and spinosad. Check the pesticide label for the spray interval, typically given as a range of time, such as "7 to 10 days.” Do not spray any more often than this. At the end of that interval, clean any insects off the trap, reapply tanglefoot if needed, and begin checking the traps every day or two as before. When the one-fly threshold (without lure) or five-fly threshold (with lure) is reached, spray again, and repeat the process of cleaning and checking traps. You will probably spray for apple maggot three or four times per season. It’s important to observe the pre-harvest interval, or the "days to harvest,” i.e. the interval between pesticide application and harvest. Any fruit picked sooner than this should not be eaten and should be discarded. In some cases this interval could be as long as three weeks. Read the label of the particular insecticide you are using for this information. Fortunately, apple maggot adults are found in smaller numbers as the season progresses, and you should be able to stop spraying sometime in August. As far as peach tree borer is concerned, no these sprays will not touch them. This is an entire video to it's self. I have never made a video about the borer because only neglect trees gt them in this area. Proper water, pruning and feeding is the first place to start. The insects are generally attracted to stressed trees. Peachtree borer eggs are laid during the summer on the bark at the base of trees. Larvae overwinter in the tree trunk near the soil line. They feed in the crown area and burrow up into the tree. At maturity, a larva is about 1-inch long, and has a light-colored body and a dark head. In late spring, larvae pupate near the entrance of their burrows or in the soil. Adults emerge from May through September; they are steel blue to black clearwinged moths with a 1-inch wing span. DAMAGE VIEW PHOTOS OF BORER DAMAGE Peachtree borers can girdle and kill young trees. Older trees can withstand the damage unless there are many larvae or the tree is attacked several years in a row. MANAGEMENT Look for the presence of frass and gum at the bases of trees when monitoring orchards in spring. Also check trees in fall for signs of peachtree borer activity. At this time, you can kill larvae by carefully using a knife or wire to probe the trunk. Mark infested trees that you find, and return the following spring to apply insecticide by spraying the trunk from the scaffold to the soil line. Remove suckers and pull soil away from the base of the tree before insecticide application. Apply the insecticide with a hand-held sprayer to the tree trunk from the juncture of the main scaffold limbs to the soil line. Cover the trunk thoroughly, using enough spray material so it will run off to form a small puddle at the base of the tree. Use from 0.5 to 1.5 gallons per tree, depending upon the size of the trunk. Two applications are recommended to protect during the prolonged period when adults are active, one in mid-May when adults are first detected and one in the middle of July. Be careful to observe preharvest intervals and use low-pressure sprays to avoid contaminating fruit. You can use pheromone traps to monitor adult emergence. They are useful for determining the presence of peachtree borers. The pheromone lure may be listed as peachtree borer or greater peachtree borer, but do not use lesser peachtree borer lures. Be sure to properly identify the moths that are trapped; other clearwing moths, the strawberry crown borer for example, may be attracted by the peachtree borer pheromone. For higher peachtree borer numbers, pheromone bucket traps work better than other pheromone traps. Place the traps in trees before the end of April at 3 feet or lower, hanging freely within the canopy. Maintain them through September, changing lures at the recommended interval (usually one month) and the trap bottoms when they become dirty and lose stickiness. If they catch large numbers of male peachtree borers (approximately 5 to 10 or more per week), apply a trunk-applied insecticide utilizing the technique described above. Return later and examine the trees carefully for signs of feeding activity. Pheromone mating disruption has been successfully used in other states but is not currently registered in California. Keep tree bases free of vegetation to help reduce problems with peachtree borer, especially in the Central Valley. Heat and dryness reduce the survival of eggs and larvae.
Hi, I bought the Spinosad and Bonide All Seasons oil. I will follow your suggestions to apply the spray this spring for my apple and asian pear trees. One question. I bought the liquid copper as well. Should I use it at silver tip as suggested on the label, or I just don't use the liquid copper at all? I did use the liquid copper last year as suggested on the label for fire blight. It didn't seemed help at all. Again I am in Fresno CA. Thanks.
The copper can be used year round on most plants as a control for fungus and bacteria. I use it with oil in the winer as a dormant disease control. It is labled for fireblight but it is rather impractical to use it for that disease. It has to land into the open flowers to be of any use. Since flowers open in sequence over time you would have to spray several times on close intervals in order to get most of them.
My pear tree in Phoenix was infected with fireblight last May. I wasn't sure what it was for a while--or what to do. I was out of town June through October. So now it's Feb. and I'm wondering if there is anything I can do at this point to battle the fireblight. It looks like some very new growth is starting up.
+Kimberly Hundley Fire Blight, kind of a long story but lets get started. To begin with, now that you know what it looks like don't ever let it stay in your tree any longer than it takes to get the shears out. When you leave it in the plant it just continues spreading until it destroys the tree. It is simple if you address it as soon as it shows up. The most effective control is pruning. As soon as you see a dead shoot get out the tools and remove the infected branch making sure to take at least 12" of healthy growth alnog with the last sign of infected wood. After you make the cut clean the tool with alcohol before you make another cut. IF you cut the damage and move the tool without cleaning it you will just spread across the tree. Have no mercy with the 12" rule because if you cheat the disease stays in the tree. The disease comes in the spring as bees pollinate the tree. they spread it from infected tree to tree or branch to branch. Be looking for new infection right after the tree is done flower and remove it immediately. If the disease has already spread into the main trunk then you need to cut the trunk away. When planting new pears remove all flower buds before they open for the first 4 years so they tree can size up with out infection. Cutting it out when they is a large canopy is simple, on a small tree it is a disaster. Do not allow fruiting spurs to form directly on the main trunk or large lower limbs. Keep all fruit on the out side of the tree. Look for trees that resist fire blight rather than have susceptibility. Learn the other vectors in the rose family so you aren't hosting the disease. Common host plants are loquat, apple, pear, photinia and pyracantha. These could be fruiting or ornamental types. The ornamentals are the worst because no one tends them. Good luck, don't get too frustrated. Those of us who grow pears and apple battle this disease every year in the west.
Thanks for this amazing video. I have a couple of apple trees in Ottawa Ontario Canada. I purchased a Lime Sulphur spray for my trees. How often should I spray them with the Lime Sulphur? Thanks Again!
Lime sulfur is generally used only in the dormant season for controlling fungus and bacteria. Three applications are typical. One in late fall, one in mid winter and one in mid-spring before buds open. This has no effect on insects though. Usually we blend lime sulfur and oil together so it kills insects too.
Hi GreenGardenGuy1, how are you? I live in Suffolk County, NY and I just wanted to ask you what type of dormant oil is the hi-yield as oppose to all season and until what season can I use it? I am having ridiculous problems with my green apple tree Thank you.
The only difference between dormant oil and all season oil is the amount of sulfur in the bottle. They will both work either way for winter or summer but read the instructions carefully on the dormant bottle. When you use dormant oil in warm weather the dilution is lighter. I use the all season oil year round because it is less likely to burn plants.
I am following your great videos in my backyard garden. thank you. I have a question. Nowadays, the Asian pear is blooming but what is the watering schedule during this period? Thanks again.
+Raafat Elshaer There is no set watering schedule for Pears in different environments and differing soil types. A pear in a sand soil in Arizona will require far more water than one in a clay soil in Maine. Many places we grow pears the natural rain is enough to support growth. In California the amount of water needed on a pear increased with every year we went into drought. This is at the same time we were supposed to be reducing water use. Trees with a nice thick mulch need much less water than trees grown in expose bare earth. Here in Fremont, CA my Pear trees receive the same water that my vegetable garden gets. I run Rain bird impulse sprinklers on towers for about one hour per week from April to September. The other factor for pear water is age of the tree. A new tree needs about one gallon per week old trees need far more than that. The roots of pear are shallow so the top 24" of soil should hold moisture at all times. Try using a moisture meter and checking the ground around your tree every week. The gauge should be on the wet side if you just watered in the past 24 hours and should never drop lower than the middle of the scale before you water again.
@@GreenGardenGuy1 This answer was incredibly helpful!!! What moisture level/ how often to water would you recommend for apple and cherry trees? they are very old trees from previous owners. thank you so much!!!
@@hmmhuh1222 As I noted above, where you live and your soil type will dictate you moisture issues. I have grown apple in cherry trees in Wisconsin, Illinois and California. I also have apples here in Hawaii. The only place I ever lived that I paid attention to moisture levels on trees was CA because drought is natural there. Everywhere else the natural rainfall was sufficient to support mature trees with no irrigation. Everywhere I grow fruit I use heavy organic mulch around the trees to conserve water. In California if I dug down through a foot of mulch and then 2 inches of underlying soil without finding water I would irrigate. If I found moisture under the mulch I would walk away and do nothing. Aloha
Hi Bill, You stated the mix of Oil and Spinosad. What is the ratio of mix? Or, I should use the oil first, and use Spinosad individually later. Is Spinosad considered organic?
do you have a video on nectarene scalling or were the skin of the fruit gets brown streaks and stuff?, how do i get beautiful nectarenes? can i start clones of my pineapple guava? and why do persimmon trees cost so much more? thanks for your time)
Hi...I may have missed it in your other videos, but do you use kaolin clay, aka Surround? Perhaps you have discussed it in a different video. I’d be interested in your opinion and instruction. Thanks.
Kaolin clay works on some pests. I is listed for coddling moth but it is harder to use and not as effective as spinosad bacteria for this pest. I have never been drawn to the material because other solutions work. I live in Hawaii these days and the rain here would limit the effectiveness. For those who are interested it could be used instead of Spinosad.
Thanks for the information. You should add an affiliate link to the product in the description area of the video! Make it easy for viewers & earn a small kickback.
There are dozens of different manufacturers that make these products. Regional differences in shelf stock can create problems for people seeking a particular brand name. The lack of links and brands was intentional. The bottle on the shelf in your area may not be the same bottle I am holding. What's in the bottle is the important issue.
Had some varieties of grapes defoliated by bag worms last summer. Great loss, severe pruning. Just applied dormant oil. Today here in eastern Kansas. Will also apply a fungicide this year. Anyone have any experience with spinosad for this pest?
Since the bag worms can only feed on the leaves and tender shoots the infestation probably isn't as bad as it appeared. Most of the plants energy was stored in the stems that they could not feed on. Spinosad is labeled for most leaf chewing worms. The bag worm, is no exception. Like most bacterial insecticides they work best if used before the problem occurs. The tiny juvenile worms will be easily killed by the first bites of spinosad if it is present as they hatch. If the spray is applied to the worm after they mature and develop the bag. The bag is protection so begin applying the spray prior to the breeding cycle and continue on 2 week intervals. Bt is also labeled for Bag worms.
The oil is used to kill aphids or scale. It also works as a binder for the Spinosad. Aphids and scale might be found the tree prior to bloom so oil alone could be used at that time. Spinosad is a naturally occurring bacteria and is nontoxic to most forms of life. It will kill a bee when the spray is wet though. We avoid using it anything pollinating insects might be present. Since we use spinosad to control coddling moth and coddling moth isn't present until the tree has small fruit there is no point in spraying it earlier. I believe I mentioned the use of coddling moth traps. Us the traps to tell when to spray, they are your indicator.
I wished I watch your video a few months ago. I live in Nebraska and have a couple asian pears and I saw the coddling moth in my pears already. Is it too late to spray spinosad and bonide all season oil now? If it is too late is there a way to get rid of these moths already in the pears. Thanks
Steve Tran The moth generally has several cycles per year so it is possible to catch the late summer wave. Don't spray at random is you aren't familiar with the local timing. Use coddling moth traps in your trees so you can tell exactly when to apply spray. If you know the worms got into your fruit remove the infected fruits from the tree as soon as you notice them. If you are lucky you will catch the worm in the fruit and you can destroy them. It is sad to lose fruit to worms but there is always next year. Finding my information this year will help you next year and the next and the one after that and then some. Think like a gardener, the cycles of seasons just keep coming around like the brass ring on a carousel. Good luck Steve.
Hello Mr. Greengardenguy1 .I’m sad the I find out about your video when is too late for my mom’s Apple tree. The tree die one month ago. From wood beetles. My mom wants another tree. But I don’t know what should I do before we plant another tree?. Do I need to spray the horticultural oil and the Spinosad before?. Thank you.
You said wood borers. My video is about coddling moth and aphid control. Borers happen because the tree is under fed, perhaps drought stricken and possibly under fertilized. Borers generally come to trees that are neglected and stressed. Healthy trees tend to repel them. Using Tangle foot and White Latex paint on the trunk helps. There are specific insecticides for borers but we generally don't need them on healthy trees. The borers happen from beetles that lay eggs on the trunk. Destroy the old tree in the fire place give it a year for good measure and plant another in a new spot. Be nice to it and it should do fine.
When a person sprays will depend on the climate you live in. Fresno is warmer than the Bay Area, the emergence of your moths is probably earlier. You have several cycles of these moths in a year, one in spring and another in summer. Never spray when there are flowers in the trees. Use coddling moth traps to determine when you should spray. I believe your fruit is already infected, thin down the apple with frass and put up traps for the second wave. See my June Drop in Apples video.
I have my fruit trees in my vegetable garden and at the edges, so I have bees even when the flowers on the trees are gone. How long is Spinosed effective? Can I spray after the bees have retired for the day or does it linger?
The spinosad is only used on the trees when the flowers are gone and small fruit are present. Bees do not go to the fruit, only the flowers. Do not spray anything but the fruit clusters. The label claims bee are only harmed if the spray is still wet and it lasts short of 11 days.
Bill, canola/vegetable oil can be substituted for horticultural oil? Also, are you recommending thinning apples? If yes, could you please advise how usually you do?
Canola can be used for growing season soft bodied pests. As for dormant sprays, the paraffin based mineral oil is far superior both in it's holding power and the ability to smother the insects. You will not get the same effect from Canola. Yes, I have plenty of talk about thinning apples. if you type greengardenguy1/topic into the youtube search box all sorts of things come up. Here is a video on the subject. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mpBD1odlXB8.html
i just moved into my farm about 3 yrs ago and we have 4 apple trees that i think are different bc of the way they taste including a crab apple tree. the problem i noticed was about every apple get worms and the lady dont want to use them, im not smart with bugs or worms at all and was wondering of that stuff you use will be effective. i got tons of bees in my trees so i will wait for the flowers to fall off. im in minnesota so i think this will be awhile, nothings blooming yet.
First you have to determine if the "worms"in your apples are coddling moth larvae or if the are apple maggot. The two have different treatments. If it is coddling moth then the treatment I described will work. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mpBD1odlXB8.html
I just came across your video and I was quite pleased on the spray info you provided. I live in Felton and have three apple trees. I have a coddling moth issue and also some black sooty looking bark. Do you have a recommended measure of the two components you use for coddling moth or should I just follow the instructions. Thanks Greg
Use the recipes on the two bottles you have in your hand as for apples. As for the black bark. This is not typical, perhaps it is honey dew with sooty mold from the wooly apple aphid? Look for fuzzy white creatures on the twigs and trunk. I intentionally never give mixing instructions. I never know what bottle some one has.
Most apples naturally have what is called the "June Drop". In northern CA it was actually in May. In any case the tree will begin to self shed some of the fruit. Often the stuff that falls is infected with coddling moth. I clean this up and then going into the tree and thin clusters. This is done for larger fruit, to balance biennial bearing and to remove any apples that may have frass from a worm ejecting from them.
I actually dislike spraying but some problems just get too big without it. I tried many things on the codling moth before I resorted to Spinosad. I like Spinosad because it is a bacteria and specific to insects. I dislike it because it takes out beneficals that might be present along with pests. Targeted spraying so you can take out the problem with mimimal use is the key. Spinosad does work on the Citrus Leaf miner but I have let that pest alone because it's damage is mostly cosmetic.
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I appreciate the education. The only thing you didn’t mention was the ratio at which you should mix the horticultural spray and the Spinosad. Also it would help to know whether it is ok to spray Serinaid while flowers are bloomed and the other mix after.
I didn't mention it because oil and spinosad shouldn't be combined. If you use both mix them separately to the bottle instructions. I will almost never give a ratio, read the labels for that information.
@@joedrenik7760 You are correct, it appears 16 years ago when I did this video I used to mix the two. The recipe I used at the time was the label instruction. If the oil was 4 TBS in a gallon and the Spinosad was 2 Tbs that is what I used. Follow your labels. Since I live in Hawaii these days and don't grow too many apples here I had forgotten that I used to blend these. Aloha
It is difficult to make a good guess without being on location. These symptoms could come from a dozen different types of stress. This tree was recently purchased and planted? Fruit on young trees is not a good thing until after the 3rd year. The fruit is seldom good quality on young trees and it stresses them when they should be growing. I still suspect the issue is lack of water. You may be watering but is it soaking into the original root ball? Planting too deep is another possibility.
Aloha Bill! An old video but I'm curious what the particle size is for the droplets in that sprayer. I need something for applying insecticidal soaps and neem oil etc on some plants that has good coverage and won't leave patches of untreated tissue exposed to pests. ATM, I can't justify 600 bucks on the pro dramm backpack sprayer for the scale im at. Any suggestions?
Gosh, I've used Solo or Hudson back pack or tank sprayers for decades with no problems. Coverage is controlled by the operator, not the sprayer. When spraying insecticides and fungicides I keep the spray nozzle tightened down to a fine mist pattern. If I spray herbicides I keep the nozzle so it makes heavy drops that will not drift in the wind.
HEY GUY I.M IN CLEVE. OHIO. WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO SPRAY BONIDE ORCHARD SPRAY FOR MOTHS ECT. DIRECTIONS SAY TO ONLY SPRAY TWICE A YEAR. ALSO WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU SPRAY MORE THAN TWICE LIKE EVERY 2 -3 WEEKS ? WON'T HEAVY RAIN CONDITIONS WARRANT MORE SPRAYING THEN 2 TIMES? I HAVE ONE GALA APPLE TREE.
The spray your are using is made of Pyrethrum and sulfur. Neither of these materials are particularly useful against coddling moth. I would suggest using spinosad as in my video. If the bottle warns you against using the product more than three time I would believe them rather than question why. My best guess is the sulfur in the spray would build to toxic levels. The question is best directed at Bonide though, I have no personal experience with over loading on these materials. No one should have to spray more than two or three time a year for coddling moth. For me, one application of Spinosad in late April works.
I am wondering where most of the moths come from, California isnt a really big apple state like Washington. I know someone with a few crab apples. I kind of wonder if bradford pears can harbor those pests, its a really common street and landscaping tree here. I don't know why people plant them, they grow fast but the flowers stink and the wood is weak, the trees have to be hard pruned or most of the branches get heavy, fall out and the stress kills the trees.
I agree that the Bradford pear is over planted for a tree with so many potential problems. They might vector coddling moth, I've never bothered to notice. Here they vector fire blight which is worse than the moth. California may not be as big an apple state as WA but we grow plenty of apples, pears and Asian pears here so there is plenty of food for the moth. Even if you ignore the commercial crop one backyard out of ten has one or more of these trees in the Bay area.
The tiny apples are the reason you use these sprays. If there were no apples it would be a waste of time to spray. The oil will only kill soft bodied insects and eggs that it hits. The Spinosad is a bacteria with an 11 day window of activity. Insects must be present on the fruit or try to eat it for it to work. If they went inside the fruit it is already too late.
Thank you Bill, this was very helpful. I have ordered the products you recommended. I just have one question...what is the ratio for mixing the Horticultural Oil with the Spinosad? Half and half or something else? Many thanks!!
When mixing materials for spraying plants always follow the recipe on the bottle you have in your hand. Never take some one else's word for it on mixture, the manufacturer is gospel. The reason for this is different brands of products may have different concentration levels. The brand of oil I use is 2 to 4 Tablespoons in a gallon and the Spinosad I use is 4 Tablespoons per gallon. This may not be the dilution rate on your product. When combining materials that are compatible in the same spray like oil and spinosad just use the label mixing instructions for both.
GreenGardenGuy1 Fantastic, this makes sense. We will follow the directions on each product explicitly. I purchased the brand in your video for the oil (Bonide All Seasons) and the Monterey brand Spinosad. They should be here soon. Both apple trees are still blooming and we will wait to apply. We definitely don't want to kill our wonderful bees. Again, thank you. You're the BEST!!
Pheromone confusion is a technique only useful to growers that have 40 acres of trees or more. You have to flood a large area with pheromone in order to create confusion in breeding. The average home owner only has a few trees and the technique is useless for them. The pheromone trap as a monitor is the only pheromone method that works in the garden. As far as netting is concerned I have used Aribon 15 for the purpose in the past. It can work but I find nets and pest barriers to be a real pain in the butt for maintenance. They will work if you are the sort who has patience for installation and untangling the mess after wind works it into the tree. So no on pheromone confusion but half a thumbs up on netting. You would still need to set traps to determine when to install the net and when to remove. In CA there are two cycles of the moth.
I just completed the spray of horticultural oil and spinosad for my apple trees on 5/8. During spraying, I had some limited access and can't face the calyx of the apples. So I sprayed from the stem side of the apples and hope the run off will cover all sides. Am I worried too much about how to spray? Is it OK to spray any parts of the apples -- as long as the Spinosad sticks to the apples, its bacteria will spread and "run around" to do the work?
You want to try to get the spray on every part of the fruit. Hitting the branches and leaves isn't important but the fruit is. I do not know how much the bacteria spreads because it only lasts for about 11 days before it has to be applied again. Generally May would be about the last spray of spring. The moths usually breed in mid April in the Bay area. Are you using moth traps to monitor the breeding? Generally we spray to the point of run off, don't worry about too much spray because the excess drips off and kills the ants under the tree.
I'm not using traps to monitor moths, thinking as my home is less than 5 miles from your former residence, I could use the date (4/28) you post this video to start my spraying. Hopefully we're in the the same ballpark as far as the spraying date is concerned. However, I can't make this date partly because Fremont turns warm for a couple of days (and because of procrastination on my part :). Do you recommend a 2nd spray? Mahalo.
The only problem with using dates instead of traps is the conditions vary from year to year in the same area and so does the moth breeding. Late April is a good guess but I has failed at least once on me when the climate caused the moths to come late. Let's just hope you got it. Later this month the fruit over load begins to drop. Most places this is called the June drop but in CA it happens in May. Most of the fallen fruit will have a worm in it, clean them up right away and either bag them or bury them over a foot down. The worms usually survive the compost heap. We also go across the fruit clusters and thin any apple that has frass (worm poop) coming out of it. Cleaning up goes a long way to control.
A question that is not directly related to Codling moths but young apple trees: My young trees--four to 9 inches tall, in pots--have contracted some sort of white mildew that covers the leaves. I have also seen some tiny white flies. How might I best remove this white powder from the leaves, etc without killing or harming the young trees. Thanks so much. Your videos are great.
+Marc D Regan You mention white flies. This would indicate that what you think is mildew probably isn't. The creature called the white fly makes white masses on the leaves when it lays eggs. Rub the leaf and then smell your fingers. If you smell mushrooms then you do have mildew. If not and it feels sticky then you have white flies. It is always possible you have both. I use horticultural oil on white fly and yellow sticky traps too. A fungicide like Neem oil or Copper sulfate will kill off mildew.
Thanks for your quick response, GGG1. I think it may have been both and I used both treatments you recommend. Trouble is, now the leaves have turned yellow-brown and the trees do not seem to be growing. Now, these are trees grown from seeds I pull from organic apples I'm eating and in the past I've had much success. My question is: Is the browning of the leaves after neem oil normal and should the trees bounce back. Any advice/insights are appreciated. Thanks!
+Marc D Regan Provided you didn't over dose the trees to such an extent that you killed the cambium then the trees will recover eventually. Insecticides, if used as directed on the label should not damage the plants they are used on. If the leaves have been damaged then one of four possible issues may have caused this. 1. The dilution of the spray or the intervals of application were excessive. 2. The plants were dry so they drank the spray. Always soak plants 24 hours before putting on a spray. 3. The temperature was too high. Never spray if the daily temperature is going above 85 degrees f. 4. The plant is one that was on the exclusion label and the materials should not have been applied to it. Apples don't care so this wasn't your problem. Take your pick, the issue occurred from one or more of these reasons. Just a note to help you avoid disappointment. Apples seeds never come true to type. Their progeny is so remote from the parent that well over 90% of the seedlings they produce will not grow an apple worth eating. I used to plant apple seeds when I lived in Wisconsin. One tree out of 100 would produce a decent apple from seeds. I used the rest of the trees as wood to smoke fish.
hello how are you today I hope all is well and your opinion is neem oil good for fruit flies period I had some type of tiny flying insect was eating my peaches last year I assumed it was a fruit fly I'm no expert but it looks like a fruit fly. what is your take on neem oil I bought the pure neem oil unprocessed
If you have a fruit fly you will also have the classic maggots inside the peach. No maggots, no fruit fly trouble. It is also possible that birds or rodents can damage the peaches and the open wounds call in fruit flies. These would be opportunistic creatures rather than direct pests. Neem is a good material because it leaves a repellent aspect that drives pests away fro a week or two after application. It is also nice because it is a natural fungicide as well as an insecticide and insect repellent. That said it is really only effective on soft bodied insects like aphids. It doesn't work on insects with hard shells on them like a fly. For flies use Spinosad. It works well on hard bodied insects.
The winter oil is good to kill off insects or insect eggs that are on the tree at the time of the spray. It's very effective against the Woolly Apple Aphid if they haven't gotten to the roots.
Use coddling moth traps. When males arrive in the traps beginning spraying. Continue on 11 day intervals until moths stop arriving. Hang a second set of traps late in the season to catch the second wave if you live in a mild climate.
your the man! appreciate the input, i clone like a mutherF#$ already, otyher plants but ill throw in some Pguava and put em everywere, luuks like they make a great hedge in other online pics, thanks for all the info, ima plant a hachiya persimmon on this land, when i can afford it), realy enjoying the vids, amdanm do you get around the country!
If you see leaves you are too late. There is some myth out there that the curl can be address in the growing season but the information is false. Peaches and Nectarines can only have curl controlled by winter dormant sprays. In spring all you can do is allow the infected leaves to drop off and grow new ones. Warmer drier weather stops the spread of this fungus. Removing the infected leaves by hand is not a good idea either. Infected or not they still serve the trees needs partially. Cleaning them from the ground is a sound idea though. Here is a video on winter dormant controls ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jZgDdTSZ-Lo.html
BTW, I also have the Fire Blight. It was so nice to finally know what was wrong with my apple trees and be able to treat them accordingly. I will be sure to use the alcohol between cuts to try and rid the tree of the Fire Blight. GREAT VIDEO...you are so appreciated for this information. I am in Riverside County, in the city of Corona, CA.
Mary, I am so glad I could help out with your apple problems. I've been at this stuff for a long time and it is nice to be able to share the experience with others. Thanks, Bill
That depends on what you are trying to use it for. All pesticides have specific actions the favor one problem over another. Neem is kind of unusual because it acts as an insecticide as well as a fungicide. It is limited in the scope of control though. It works mostly on soft bodied creatures like aphids and mealy bugs. It is usually labeled for white fly but my experience it it doesn't work well on them. It is mostly ineffective on scale & beetles. Paraffin based mineral oil is the best material for dormant control and it works much better on the entire range of soft bodied insects. It doesn't work on hard bodied bugs or fungus and disease. It is mixed with copper or sulfur for dormant disease control. If you are going after the coddling moth no biological control works better than pheromone traps and Spinosad bacteria. Systemic Imidecloprid works better but I do not like the material or it's manufacturer.
Horticultural oil is a basic plant insecticide sold in any store that handles insect control. I have put in no link because there are dozens of different brands and they all do the same thing. What brand they have on the shelf in you area is open to question. Here is an Amazon link. www.amazon.com/Bonide-Products-210-Horticultural-Concentrate/dp/B000BX4RNW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2ZHP6OFFGXS3P&keywords=all%2Bseasons%2Bultra%2Bfine%2Boil&qid=1652761620&sprefix=all%2Bseasons%2Bultra%2Bfine%2Boil%2Caps%2C272&sr=8-1&th=1
It is on the label of the bottles. I have no idea what product you have in your hand. Read your labels they have the exact mixing instructions. When blending materials I read the labels on two bottles.
We usually refrain from applying any sprays to the trees while they are in flower because flowers are very sensitive. The only exception to this is certain fungicides, like copper, used to control diseases transmitted by pollinating insects. A heavy dilution of oil and water is used in winter for killing any insects or insect eggs hanging out on the dormant tree. There are lighter dilutions of oil and water used as growing season sprays for the control of soft bodied insects like aphids. After the flowers are gone from the trees I apply Spinosad with oil and water to apples for coddling moth and cherry for the cherry piercer fly. So the short answer is no, wait till the flowers have fallen then use the growing season dilution.
I mix the two together but you will not find that on a label and if you ask a nursery man they will tell you not to because the label is the law and they can get in trouble for going off of it. I use the dilution rates marked on both bottles and put them both in the tank at the same time. Combination sprays are common on the farm but the farmers usually get their information from the AG colleges or the county agents.
This video was shot in California. The spring [pest control season was the only one I used much. Later season pests were minor other than a second generation of the coddling moth during apple ripening. What you schedule is depends on your personal growing philosophy, where you live on the planet and what your main pests are. These days I live in Hawaii. The pests on my apples are completely different and the schedule of maintenance is different too.
The video was about coddling moth and wooly apple aphid control. Peaches and plum do not get these pests. Plums are aphid magnets so banding with tangle foot and spraying with oil is appropriate. Peaches are prone to fungus. I have videos about that. The winter time is the only window to prevent peach leaf curl with fungicide. Summer is the time powdery mildew hits. All fruit trees have different issues and different timing for control.
