Honestly wish they showed the breaking free of cranks and bb. Most already know how to disassemble, it's the breaking loose of components and how not to destroy your bike that we are most interested in. I had a cranks so seized one time it stripped the threads out of my crank tool!
Wish they showed the breaking free of cranks and bb. Most already know how to disassemble, it's the breaking loose of components and how not to destroy your bike that we are most interested in. I had cranks so seized one time it stripped the threads out of my crank tool!
It's pointless to so call upgrade to a new component just to have the lastest/greatest components when there is absolutely nothing wrong with the component you already have.
@Bebo Square taper may also creak at high power outputs especially if sprinting or hill climbing - having the inherent stiffness of external bearings allows you to put more power through the bike without it being wasted. Road and track have both gone to two piece designs and MTB parts that aren't from the bargain bin are often two piece as standard - but you can still buy Shimano Alvio 2 piece for really cheap.
@@bebo3562 it's not a myth. If it was a myth then why not use full sus for road bikes instead of the stiff forks they are now currently using. Or why not not put just the right amount of tension on wheel spokes to not have the rims bend over itself and not put the most optimal amount of tension? There's a reason behind why road bikes are made stiff.
There's no reason not to call this an upgrade: the new hardware is far more eficient and lighter, it also allows the use of better cranks that will guaranteed hold against anything you throw at them. Also, calling a basic set of bottom bracket and old cranks "the latest and greatest" shows how little you know, because thoose parts are anything but fancy, i'm a broke bastard and i have an awesome set of DH 165mm Zee cranks that are 100 times more "prestigious" than theese.
You have to replace the F derailure. The crankcase style FD held on by Bottom bracket is supposed to have a reinforced steel lip on the drive side. No hollow tech BB. has been made that won’t work loose as it chews up the aluminum.
What? Sorry I am struggling to understand, what's wrong with the derailleur? Why does it chew up the aluminium? I don't see the point od contact between the FD and crankset. I was going to make a similar upgrade to my old bike, but you got me curious.
There was a guy who came into our shop today and i did a deivetrain clean and when i was taking apart his bb he had put red threadlocker on the preload bolt, the spindle and the bearings as a form of grease, to get it out i had to decimate the preload bolt and hammer the shit out of the crank arm
I've found it best to learn from mistakes. Red loctite? Haha, make sure you've got a torch handy. Use grease, anti seize, blue loctite or fiber paste on bicycles!
@@rollinrat4850 one of the screws on my front brake can't be torqued below 6-8Nm because i used too much and now you need a damned drill to screw it all the way in without taking 15 minutes
Good job 👍next step, get some aluminium pedals, you’ve done the right thing fitting Hollow Tech, but you lose soo much Torque through those plastic pedals !!
It amazes me all the different tools that you have to have to work on the bike. You might as well just be working on the Ferrari as there’s a lot of different tools. God bless good job let’s go ride. John from Denver Colorado. We got a lot of great ride in here, maybe we’ll see you on the trail
Black clip at the screws on the left crank arm needs to be the other way around! It is a safety feature, and it won’t work, if it is installed like this.
@@Ferrari255GTOas hotzable said its prevent cranks from falling off but more importantly its an indicator that you seated the crank fully, you need to push it down and see if it goes into the hole, thats when you know that its seated fully sn properly.
@@norbertnagy5514 yeah, in the year passed i had learned that too, i think that it was GMBN who mentioned it on a video when i learned about it, i have learned to gauge that myself since my brother's bike had an old set of absolute ass cranks with ribeted chainrings and the chainrings were toast, so we replaced the whole bottom bracket too for good measure and needed to use one of the smaller washers included with the BB bearings. He insisted for a while that he still wanted a front derrailleur but after he investigated a bit decided to leave said plans behind and keep his new narrow-wide chainring.
Подскажите пожалуйста если мне переходить с системы 3 зведы на 2 звезды верхний переключатель скоростей тоже идет под замену или можно его использовать?
Question: I see the threading is the same as the sealed bearing you removed... What's this style of crank bearings called? I take it the main advantage of the new bearing / crank set is that the axle is a single piece from crank arm to crank arm, right? (For strength purposes?) And I reckon that setups like this have replaceable eh.. "Blades" (F* me.. My terminology went *poof*)... ...The round things with the teeth.. ...The toothy circle thingies that drive the chain.. Aargh.. Dammit, brain! Gear wheels.....? 😐 The big ones on the crankset.. They are replaceable...? Si / Nope
Why did they first tighten the axle to the full on the right (from the side of the drive star) and not on the left and on the opposite side? It seems so right...
As far as i can tell it's not really necesary, i still do it on my own bikes but if one day i clean them and i don't have grease i won't loose my head over it
Hi I have a similar old BB and crankset for an E Bike. Can I also update to a 105's BB and crankset and assemble magnetic disc near BB and sensor so motor can also work? I can see magnetic disc is missing in your vedio. Thanks
The new crank arm with the the split and the extra side bolts on the arm that goes on the bracket axel is to me a weak spot, its also not a technological advancement, but the basic rule "simplicity is the most sophisticated" has made the crank arm too complicated, and has added a weakness, it looks sexy tho.
Hard disagree, the parts are very simple and the bolts have far less stress than thoose on square taper, and since the new bearings are a larger diameter they will also take abuse way better and last longer. Usually square taper cranks shear off due to the torque they have to transmit being too much for the square desing, the worst that can happen with theese is that it falls off if inproperly torqued and you need to do a quick re-assembly mid ride, wich takes 5 mins at most. To top it all off it's lighter than the original by a respectable difference without extra cost.
Should be until there is no play in the bearings just like in cup and cone or as a general rule, put one of your finger in it then tighten with your finger until it starts to hurt then it should be good to go.
Жесть. Рама не торцована, резьбу чистим тряпкой, винты на шатунах надо несколько раз по кругу протянуть, потому что затяжка одного ослабляет противоположный.
@@Ferrari255GTOas aaja said its to prevent those things + you should grease these types of bb and cranks in all kinds of places as a type of seal to keep the dirt and water out otherwise you may heva problems a year later or so.
@@norbertnagy5514 i mean, i said it wasn't necesary not that it wasn't convenient. I had begun to do it around 5 months ago, and even here with a humid weather and riding on the rain i had no issues outside of normal wear on the 3 years i didn't do it on my Demo 8 or the 2 i had my Lapierre Froggy 318
No podría usar ese plato tan pequeño me encanta el de ruta el mas grande con el piñón mas pequeño queda durísima pero me encanta ya no me afeta ya no lo ciento pesado quiero unos mas grande que un 54😁🤣
And if you cant, lol. When we swapped the bb on my bike thats exactly what i tried first. I just started chewing up the notches or how its called so i stopped. This was a 10-15 year old bike probably never got bb swapped, i purchased the correct tool as seen in the video, and it needed heating a few times + a considerable amounts of force until we could get of both sides. It would've never worked out with the flathead and mallet lol.
@@norbertnagy5514 Since leaving this comment I've become a bike mechanic and it turns out there are actually bottom bracket remover tools for when they're REALLY stuck. I'm talking a five pound chunk of solid steel you bolt to the BB itself and then clamp in a vice.
I really don't get how pro some people are to even notice frame flex. From the tires, the rims, the shoes, the forks, on bumpy terrain on an MTB, even the handle bar and the pedal axles, and you get to notice the BB and the frame flex too? 🤡
The chainrings are all part of the crank arm, either bolted or riveted on. Magnet would just go back in between the bb and the frame. The sensor he does show you.
Nah, forget about the squares, i used to push so hard i would destroy pedals and cranks when i was 14, literally never shifted from 7th (didn't have any more gears lol)
@@vicenteh820 en mi país un botón brake tiene costo de más de 100 dólares y hacer 100 dólares aquí es difícil, la inflación es fuerte. Sin meter q el plato son como 100 mas
Das sieht interessant vor allem für die selber das Tretlager mit der Kurbelgarnitur gewechselt haben. Was ich gerne wissen möchte ist wofür die Blechscheibe zwischen dem Rahmen und des Lagers benötigt wird. Die Blechscheibe bei welcher links was befestigt wird. An was man denke könnte ist wenn man direkt da einen Dynamo entwickelt-habe in der Form nicht gesehen.
@@user-sb9bi1iw6oэто, похоже, старая рама, в которую никто не планировал ставить холлоутек, потому что карточный стакан покрашен щедро, с наплывами краски. А чашкам холлоутека плоскость нужна. Надо было раму торцевать приспособой специальной. Ну, и чистить резьбу грязную такой же грязной тряпкой, на сухую... бессмысленно, мягко говоря.
