Surfing has really turned into a shitshow in my lifetime... really takes some dedication and willingness to surf more novel type waves to have them to yourselves or with small crowds. Bummahz.
Ha, ha, I'm 64 and first surfed killer Dana point in 1965 when I was seven and then went on to surf southern cal and Hawaii till the late 80"s. Never was it crowded and no kooks out with their whole extended families.
It was the early 70’s and I was working an 8-5 $2.00 an hour job in East LA. Back then I could make it up to Malibu in around a half hour to be in the water before 6:00. No matter the conditions, unless it was completely flat, it was always a great time and never crowded by today’s standards. I’m thankful for those memories!
@@jeffshimkus9437 likewise for me, in the mid and late 70s paddling out Northside Huntington Beach Pier in Petaling out down in Newport Beach it hardly ever got crowded he had waves to yourself those were great days and like you said many great memories, nowadays it's become a fad and everybody's a surfer during the summer. Too many kooks
On Christmas Day 1963, my friend and I were cruising up PCH on the way to C Street in Ventura. When we past Malibu we noticed it was 2 and 3 with only about 6 people in the water. We made a quick U-turn, parked and headed out. On the way out, everybody came in except one person. For about an hour only 3 people surfing nice clean Malibu waves. How’s that for a terrific Christmas present.
It’s like watching a bunch of drunken clowns fighting over the only available make up kit. Sickness, the lot of it but, fun to watch for awhile. Thanks.
The long lines from that swell were completely unforgiving at my local beach break. The jetty sandbar broke it up a little, producing some short reeling lefts but beyond my skill level. A long point like the 'Bu was the obvious call (hence the hoards of bodies in the water). Thanks for sharing. 🤙
After watching this video, I have more appreciation for my home-breaks, it's not the best in Southern California, but it's fun and people, at least most people followed the rules.
Great camera angles. Never seen one from the estuary, though the pier shots are perfect. Used to surf there and man, we thought it was crowded in the 70s.
surfing in socal is pretty whack now tbh , I hope the internet hasnt ruined most surf spots. I just want mid empty waves, saving what little I can to leave.
If you could live on an island with a beach just for you and you alone, what wave would you want to be there just for yourself. Like: Malibu, pipeline, shipsterns😂😂
Dang those are huge thanks for the vids I live in San Antonio texas and there is no surf here so I love watching these to remind me of what i am missing
Wow, I cant help but notice all the kooks just going for waves people are already riding. They can see them on the wave but still think its a good idea to just go.
Nothing like crowded conditions to spoil a nice day of good waves. I've ridden waves like this a few times including many years ago at a reef break that will remain unnamed, just me and three or four other people at most during the day. By the way, who is the beauty hanging hanging five at the 5:35 mark? Gorgeous and excellent surfer.
Great footage. But as for the surfing, all you can do is laugh and be happy we weren't out there getting frustrated as hell. Plus the Russian roulette of weaving between everyone paddling out. Not exactly a relaxing surf sesh. 🤣
Love the camera angle! I’ve only ever surfed Malibu and Rincon 1x ( don’t live in SoCal) . Is it just me or is Rincon way less kooky? My only session there was no where near like this, and it was a good swell.
David , it’s warm water LA hodads splashing around on a soft but fast wave that breaks in a bath tub. Kook fest since 1960’s but lots of talent and the entire mix out there including naked man in the 80’s 90’s. Don’t know why but Nobody dropped in on him?
I like the first angle but I don’t love it. Something in my stomach says no. I do like the Warren Miller esq style of narration however which helps carry me through the not “perfect” angle if there is such a thing. Angle at 6:35 if it was like 5-15 degrees more straight on I feel it would feel better.
...you know Malibu is good when you take off at the river mouth and ride it all the way to the pier..........after a while you cutout at the second peak just so you don't have to paddle all the way back...........
On a really clean wave, i wouldnt be able to handle it. If I'm going to respect your guys's waves you need to respect mine. I have no problem waiting my turn even if it's a long wait, but once it's my turn in position it's my f****** turn.
Shit fight. Couldn't be bothered with any of that. Thankfully we dont have to deal with these sorts of crowds in NZ. Indonesia has gotten crazy busy also but uncrowded waves can be found easily. That looks a bloody nightmare
@@latentsea SO I'm guessing 65-70 F - I'm in New Zealand and we are 15-17 Celsius so thinking about the same. We are having an Ocean heatwave in the Tasman Sea(between Oz and NZ) so our temps are a couple of degrees too high.
ya know how they had to change the rules in Machu Picchu to only allow a certain number of people in at a time? (for safety of the people and of the place)...well it's about time they do that at the Bu. Seriously ridiculous how many kooks. Not safe. Not pretty. Not cool man.
