Hah! Ford I bet. Was I right? Gotta love those current/voltage watching system that only allow one ign/start per ignition cycle. Those are just fun. Stop/start batteries that are hiden in the car. Rover calls it a Voltage Quality component. Fun!
My old trucks have over 300,000 miles , i just buy a starter battery and a hot wire at the same time and change them , but only on my truck ..because of the miles , it needs every part in that system replaced when im working on it .
So even though it doesn't need a starter, if the mechanic turned that nut while putting on a new starter it would be fixed without proper diagnosis. That's the difference between a parts changer and an experienced mechanic.
A follow up video with exact work done and it being same starter would help a lot! (Make it make sense type of deal) not saying you're wrong or not a good test, I just know how ppl can be.
@@ScannerDannerjust ignore them dude. Even the Anthony guy in the comments... He talked about LED being an issue for volt drop when they drop 0.7v. Then he says something about something acting like a diode...... People are fckn rtrded my man. They don't know what a diode dose or how to install a zener diode.... But they act like they know stuff tho.... This is why I left engineering, too many of these people.
Light goes completely out, that is precise enough for this particular situation. In other videos he uses multimeters and multi channel scopes when the situation calls for it. A good auto tech can use whatever tool is necessary to solve the problem. Sometimes a high level scan tool , sometimes a spray bottle of water.
This really isnt a great test, yes it works somewhat but theres some key problems here. First and for most electricity travels the path of least resistance, that pretty well know. Second issue you,test light is an LED, which has both pros and cons to an incandescent stlye test light. Now it seems like the cabke is being blamed for the voltage drop, but this seems more like a bad connection which is repairable without replacing the whole cable. Placing the led test lights on a severely oxided part can give false readings, the oxided part acts like a diode with a very large Voltage drop for something that only needs 20mA of current max. This is why old school VTVMs or even a VOM is pretty usfull in auto repair not just Electronics, the analogue scale can be much easier to read, over the switching resolution on a modern DMM, also if your learn how you can use them as a milivoltmeter to,test for shorts to ground
@@ScannerDannerI'm not,trying,to be rude here, I'm just simply pointing,out,that this could be missing leading, you stated in the beginning of the video " this is what voltage drop on the heavy battery cable looks like" as if it were the cable. And it isn't it is the connections between said cable. Brother non of us are prefect, there are lots of people younger than us who look up to what we do, and learn from it. And explaning what is going on as a teaching point should be worded very well, "heavy battery cable", or high current cable. Voltage drop verus and bad connection. Yes they are technically similar, but in reality it goes pretty deep. A bad connection will drop voltage, which then drops current. Volts, ohms, and current ohns law. They all work togther kinda why the saying,its not the volts that kills its the amps is false in away. Doesnt matter to much if your light was led or not, I will stick to my thoughts on belief that it is simply do to the video you've made, and the wave length of light that it's emitting is the of a Light emmiting diode. My point here is that both led, and incandescent both have a place in the shop, try testing a blinker circut with an led test light, and then use a incandescent. You'll see the difference!
![Starter Motor Tests you MUST Learn [voltage drop on battery post of starter]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
