Step by Step Guide to Re Painting an MGB Cylinder Head with Brush Paint 

Great tip about the pennies Peter. I end up painting my head every time it goes through the wash process, so every two years or so.

Many thanks for your message Dave, I don't have a video covering the kingpin/stub axle replacement but if you've changed wheel bearings in the past the job is not much more involved. I have a video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VkFmj-w3Nes.html that covers the front spring removal, in my car it's a bit easier as the springs are shorter, but the principle is the same. I would tackle the job as follows: 1.Jack the front of the car up on both sides, remove the brake calipers and hang them somewhere safe. 2. remove the front brake disc and hub ( keep an eye on the shims for the bearing) 3. Remove the track rod end from the steering arm and loosen the steering arm whilst still on the car. 4. Remove the anti roll bar link bolts (the anti roll bar can stay where it is) 5. I would try to loosen both the top trunnion bolt and lower wishbone bolt to make sure they are free 6. Jack up the wishbone pad and remove the lower wishbone bolt 7. Carefully lower the jack to allow the spring to come out 8. Remove the upper trunnion bolt (you may need to also remove the cross bolt in the lever arm damper, especially when re-fitting)

I'll definitely give that a try, I've got another head to paint and will see how it goes.

Tried it on the spare head last weekend, the hammer technique for the masking worked a treat!

@@davidrussellwilks Excellent David glad it worked for you. Cheers

Thanks for the tip

Hi Aaron, I've never painted an SU heat shield (mainly because the car's had a Weber from day one). I think if you can remove the carbs but keep all the linkages in place it should not be too bad a job, might need to people to remove everything as one though?

@@davidrussellwilks G'day Dave...agreed! those linkages on the SU's are not easy to manage in one assembly move. The linkage springs don't make it any easier. The social distancing thing also means I'll need to do it solo, to perhaps temporarily wire/tape it all together.

Once the degreaser has been applied and dried off the bare metal parts should be ready for paint.

Great tip!

The head (and engine) are removed to check every 2 years or so. For the cleaning all the valves are removed, the head is checked for cracks and given a very light skim. The Derrington head you have is very sought after and I would say it's certainly worth getting it checked over. Where in the UK are you based? I pay around £1500 for the engine refresh, but this is both the top and bottom end plus parts and labour. A full refresh on your head I guess would be around £300-£600 depending on what's needed, if it's not been done for a while I think it would be a good idea and certainly add value to the car.

@@davidrussellwilks I quite agree. I am in the East Midlands, near the Derby neck of the woods. I don't know of a place that does that specifically and thanks for the rough price guide. I'd certainly love to have the work you mention done, but that is way too much money for my humble pockets. I will keep it in mind for in case I ever win some cash or whatever though. Thanks again

@@tedsmith_photography Peter Burgess would be well worth a look www.peter-burgess.com/ my estimate could certainly be wrong. He is based in Alfreton i think.

Thanks for your message Erik, the intake manifold and waterpump and both aluminium on my car so I don't paint these, I don't have a heatshield fitted (Weber Carb). With the aluminium parts I always like to leave them bare or polish them, you may also find that bead blasting gives a very attractive finish. I have painted the exhaust manifold with E-Tech paint, www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007AFKGMA/ref=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_3p_dp_1 this does seem to hold up well.

David Russell-Wilks thanks for the response! I’ll definitely consider changing to aluminum, looks great!

No, I just used an Acid etch, it seems to hold up fairly well

It is a specialist engine paint, it says heat and oil resistant on the tin, but no figures given. It seems to stand up well; after a couple of years it needs a re-touch around the spark plug holes but not much else.

David Russell-Wilks Thank you. Later

Hi David,is your primer heat resistant ?