This video is an update on how the Eastwood High Temp paint performed over the last year #eastwood. Also, tips on how to prepare, mask and paint engine parts using rattle cans and 2k ceramic engine paints.
I know this is old, but would like to mention. Cast iron is very porous and holds moisture. After degreasing I always hit my cast parts with a propane torch or heat gun. You'd be surprised the amount of moisture that can come out of a part you assume to be dry. That moisture, if not removed, can cause the paint to flake off when the part is heated up while running. That moisture has to escape somewhere. This is all especially true if you are receiving parts back from a machine shop that put your parts through a wash tank. Never assume they put those parts in an oven, or put them in long enough to remove that moisture. All the time you spend properly painting will be wasted.
Hey Pete great videos. I'm the guy who developed most of the paints and coatings at EW, including the ceramic engine paints. Prop 65 is not what determines where it can be shipped, it's VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that are governed state to state and Canada is very difficult, not only on VOCs, but labeling. Anyway CA makes manufacturers put P65 on everything, I bought a garden hose the other day it has the warning. Glad you like the 2K, we worked very hard to get the formulas and colors correct. I'm not longer at EW, but proud of what we accomplished.
Having worked in a dealership and been the one opening up components for the first time since the vehicle rolled off the assembly line, you’d cry a little if you saw how much casting debris I’ve seen in cooling systems of relatively new vehicles.
I believe it. I was an engineer for GM Powertrain and saw hundreds of thousands of those engines being built. I you only could see what went on in the factory.
Im building my first engine, a gm v6 , and was quite surprised how the block is full of ”clay”. Couldnt understand what it was until my machine shop said its casting sand left from production. So strange that gm just left it like that. Going to have it bored out so the shop is going to bathe it in acid. I assume that will sort it out.
I saw a great cast iron engine component tip the other day. Once the part has been completely cleaned, degreased, and allowed to dry, get a propane torch and go over the whole piece gently heating it up to further drive off any moisture from the pores of the metal. It also burns off any remaining oil as well. Then it's ready to paint once it cools.
Great video, Painting and or mechanic restoration one of the best means of therapy. I always told suicidal patients when they were discharged either paint your bedroom or build engine model.
Love your videos, thanks so much for all you do, I’m in Chattanooga Tn, and I’m just learning on my 1963 Oldsmobile Cutlass, again thanks and keep up the good work.
Hey Pete, new subscriber to your channel all the way from South Africa, great videos man, thanks for explaining every step & taking time to cover all details... I do paintwork over here and busy with a 78 1275 GT Mini, your guidelines are helping a load. Keep it up man! 👊
I live Ontario Canada about 30 minutes to US boarder. It is true that the auto suppliers will not ship paints and things like that to Canada. The way I gat around it is to have them shipped to a UPS store and then I go across pick them up and bring back home. At the boarder I just declare that I'm bring back spray paint and depending on the dollar value it will determine if I have to pay tax on these items. Long story short it's no problem bring paints and things like that back across. I hope this helps.
Just wanted to say, first time I’ve watched your videos, which was good info but I’ve also been reading through the comments for close to 45 minutes. Theres a great deal of info there thanks to your interaction so thanks for all the info left here for us, I’ve learned several things👍 If I stick around too much longer I’ll start expected a paycheck. Lol Oh and that water pump turned out top notch!
@@PetesGarage Anytime. Not sure if I asked but is there a zinc chromate in an aerosol can you would recommend? I’m building a buggy and plan on using on engine parts… thanks for any feedback. Not sure about temperature it’ll withstand.
I’ve recently started using tractor paint and it holds up well to heat and has a smooth glossy powder coat finish I would not use it on exhaust manifolds but I’ve used on turbo compressor housings valve covers and other engine pieces and I love it also have done a diesel bed stack and traction bars for trucks
Hello I live in Sweden and have used a lot of different paint methods. Eastwood products we got and that brand is the absolutely best product for engines and chassis.
Somerset, United kingdom I use Hb Body 989 epoxy but have used red oxide from hammerite All paint (chevy orange) is from etech Going to go see a auto paint shop I've just found to maybe learn more as I'm just starting out Currently restoring a 1984 chevy 305 but cannot get chevy corporate blue on line Other projects are 74 pontiac formula 400 and have a 69 ford 250 on its way from Houston Texas. Love the videos Pete really helpful keep it up cheers mate
Like your videos Pete. I'm a old time resident of Akron ny , now in Florida. Still turning a wrench now and then, as a kid went to Harkness back in the early 60s, lol. You remind me a lot of Ed Seifert who also attended Harkness along with Hans Schmidt ( Cobra ), anyway just reminiscing. Keep up the great Vids.
I had to get dupli color Chevrolet orange DE1620 because in Melbourne Victoria Australia For some reason VHT is no longer on the shelves here . Can only find vht paint on maybe eBay
Hey Pete, love your videos. I am rebuilding the engine out of an old forklift I have. Nothing high performance or anything but I’m putting a lot of work into it and doing everything so I want to paint it with a good epoxy engine paint in an industrial color like grey. Anyway, my shop isn’t really set up to paint (I have paint equip, but I don’t want to spray in my shop right now), its very busy in there and worried about overspray getting on things. My question is; have you ever brushed on an engine enamel paint? If so, do you have any tips or recommendations? Thanks, keep on the good work on your channel!
Hey Pete, Great video, I like to ask, I have a new aluminum intake manifold and like to get it powder coated or high temp coating which one would you use. As it's new you say never to media blast engine parts, so just a good cleaning to remove oils from the intake and then off to powder coat is okay. Thanks Tony from Toronto, Canada
I'm going to try something on exhaust manifolds. Firearms and the bolts under your hood are Parkerized Magnesium Black and it's durable and easy to do. My plan is to parkerize my manifolds black and then put an exhaust coating over it. In case the coating comes off, it will still be protected and still look good.
Great video and 100% rightht on the blast media, also on any of the scotch brite disks, you'll find the silica imbedded in the bearing babbit later on.
How long did you wait in between primer & topcoat? Also, it looks like you just did one good top coat? Is that what you always do on engine when using 2K?
We can get VHT / Duplicolor etc. at Repco here in Western Australia. (Repco are super expensive for most things but they do carry a large range) Some of the more exotic stuff may be harder to source obviously. Shipping is and logistics is clearly terrible anyway at the moment. The most dangerous stuff is that rattle-can clear coat (two part with hardener), you MUST wear a respirator with it or you risk damaging / scarring up your lungs for (a presumably shortened) life.
I have subscribed sometime ago and hit like as well. Here I am, watching it again. With many paint technologies being similar, I noticed Nason hardener going into your Eastwood base. No problems I would guess
OK, what is you recommendation for paint on cylinder heads that have part of the exhaust manifold cast in, like Pontiacs, and that Studebaker? Is there engine paint that will withstand that kind of heat without burning? You always see cars at shows where the paint has burned off and the area has rusted.
I am from PERTH ,Australia.I bought some Dupli-Color Engine Chevrolet Orange to paint a 81 Air cooled Honda CR450R 2 stroke engine.Some other rebuilder said he tried it & when some fuel leaked out onto the paint is washed off.He just said don't use Ceramic paints.Now I am confused.Also it says nothing about using a primer first on the can.I am going to use Etch Primer but now dont know how soon to paint the color paint over it.do you do both within the hour of leave the primer for a week first ?
Leaving bolt holes untreated will get you rust creap out of them . thin coat of antiseize or atf on a q tip will stop it. Clear hair spray on gasket surfaces to keep rust from creeping out .
I'm from Australia. Hard to get good paint here. I worked in the aero engineering trade a while ago. I think we used a semi gloss black on some of the engines. That is aircraft paint. Some of their colors may suit you. They are very durable. Spray cans.
Have you sprayed small rough parts like that cast iron water pump outside with decent results? I’ve only got a small garage and I’d have overspray on everything.
Hi. Good video. I’m looking around engine painting vids for tips on painting my motorcycle engine. One thing another video mentioned was using heat dispersant paint on air cooled engines. Do you have an opinion on that? My plan was just DupliColor Engine Enamel
Hello. Question regarding high temp paint and aluminium engine block/parts. I am in the process of restoring an old Rover V8. If I paint it with hight temp paint that needs 200celsius plus to harden. Does it mean that it stays wet until I bake it.. I was planning to paint it prior to put it in my land rover series 3.. But that will be a mess if it is not hardened. Also. What paints is recommended for alu parts. Both inlet manifold but also rocker covers. Engine clock etc.
Hi Pete, im from Johannesburg South Africa, i build custom bikes (show bikes) im doing an old Triumph Bonnieville, im wanting to do the motor white, covers chrome ect, please could you recommend the primer, paint and do i clear it, it gets pretty hot, will the white last and not go dull, thanx a million, always learning from your show
Air cooled engines are really tough. On aluminum you need a zinc chromate primer and I'd use a high temp epoxy. It may take some searching to see what you can get there. Good luck
I noticed you mentioned that you have repainted parts the have already been painted before. Any suggestions on prep before painting. Besides cleaning of course
Hi Pete, I would like to paint my SBC engine with a nice shiny chevy orange that lasts. I live in Puerto Rico, and eastwood, summit, and any other company that I tried to buy from don’t send paints to PR. What product out of the shelf from AutoZone or Home Depot do you recommend to me?
If I forgot to put primer on my engine before putting the high temp engine paint did I mess up...if so what do I do to rectify the issue...and do you need to bake an engine after painting...thats just something I heard.
On my 77 F250, I want to spray clear on parts before installing to give kind of a wet bare metal natural look. And on the engine too. What's the best way since no gray primer or anything? Just wet bare metal look
I want to paint my complete engine with eastwood 2k ceramic paint. they dont have primer in stock. can you recommend primer to use and do I need to apply on cast parts and aluminum parts.
After trying numerous times with VHT rattle cans (flame coat and engine enamels), I finally gave up. I would blast all my parts with glass bead, primer them and cure the VHT in an oven and it just wouldn't last. Last year I tried Cerakote and that stuff is the bomb!
In regard to what you said in the beginning about not painting it wrong, if there’s paint on the gasket surfaces and on the valves, would you say that’s wrong? I just recently had an engine rebuilt and they didn’t use ANY masking tape, or really try to avoid overspray in any way whatsoever.
Hi, I'm preparing to paint an old Mercedes Benz OM 352 diesel engine for a Unimog. I want to paint it matte black. I live in Argentina and I have problems to get the right paint. In the paint shop they tell me that epoxy paints do not withstand the high temperature, and that the high temperature paint they have does not withstand spills of oil or fuel. Could you recommend me what kind of paint to use? Thank you
Would there be a header paint out there that's bright green ? I have a Kawasaki bike and have grit blasted the pipe clean and wanted to repaint the pipe about the same colour as the rest of the bike .
is it true that it is not advisable to paint over a motorcycle engine also the cooling fins. because it holds heat it and makes the cooling fins purpose useless.
Your video talks metal etching primer. What brand did you use? Isn't there a concern that some etching primers will damage the finish over time? Thank you.
The problem I ran into was I couldn’t find etching primers that were high temperature. What are your thoughts on this, as I’ve heard sometimes when you use these primers with the high temperature paint that the primer fails when the engines get up to temperature. Thanks!
Hi Pete, Thank you for you tip about sand blasting cabinets, I must admit I have used it to clean up my alternator housing this week :-( Looks like I will pull that apart again and give it a very good clean. By the way I live in Perth WA and yes we can get Eastwood products from PPC in East Cannington and also e bay.
Thanks Vaughn. It's so tempting to blast everything, but you really have to make sure it's clean. One grain in the bearing on your alternator will cause it to smoke pretty quick.
Pete I love your videos. I have a question about the primer. I've heard you say on several occasions you use metal etch epoxy. I don't get it, I've never heard of metal etch epoxy. I've googled it and still don't understand. Are you using etch primer then epoxy? Thanks .
Hi Pete, thanks for the great video. I called Eastman for Cat yellow an they don't offer it. I've looked for a comparable product in Cat yellow and can't seem to find it. Can you give me any help with this? Thank you!
Hello!! Thanks for this video! Im about to open the engine manifold of my mercedes E class with the M156 engine. The manifold is made.of magnesium and after cleaning it up I thought of painting the throttle plate and the inside of the manfold chamber to prevent it from corrosion (these magnesium manifolds are notorious). Any tips on the best product and technique to paint this particular part made of magnesium? I live in the united arab emirates
@@PetesGarage That's what I thought, or maybe I did not explain myself correctly. It's kind of a long video but this is the process. Same engine and manifold. Thank you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nZGKskqhHNU.html
One little grain of blast media is NOT going destroy your water pump! 😂😂😂 it’s not even going to cause an issue! You’re absolutely right about blasting anything which is in contact with oil circulation. I blast and Cerakote ALL my engine parts. Even the oil pump! You just make sure to clean it perfectly
@@PetesGarage my 6.0L powerstrokes Eaten bits of a Piston ring over a 2 year period. and well to say it destroyed the engine it still starts runs and drives fine. just doing a engine rebuild just because needs new seals all over. but i think a tiny grain of sand is fine. especially considering for 2 years now i've had about half an oil control ring in very small pieces in my oil. and its definatly gone through the oil pump.
I’ve been using duplicolor cde1615 engine enamel for most of my aluminum parts. Easy to find in Canada. For the good stuff I go to a local bodyshop supply that sells ppg.
What are your tips on preparing a engine block for a new head gasket? (when it is still in the car). I've seen many people clean it with plastic scrapers and solvant. But they dont do anything to prevent gasket material to fall into the coolant or oil passages while they are scraping. It doesnt seem to matter, because their engines runs fine afterwards. I would think it could potentially clog the radiator or termostat, or get into the bearings or clog tight oil passages.
For what its worth what i do is i put towels in the cylinders so nothing gets all up in the rings. Like pete i follow with a vaccum. Could twist some up and put it in the passages. Just be careful and slow. I spray some carb cleaner and use a razor blade scraper and scrape away from the passages so you get minimal stuff in them. Change the blade if you get any burrs on it so you dont gouge the engine of its aluminum. Dont use scotch bright or abrasive wheels because they can drop abrasive dust and grit into your engine and bed in your bearings. Wire wheels arnt good either because they can chuck wires everywhere and they will find the coolant jackets or any oil passages. Then i run the cheapest oil and a good filter for a day or 2 and do a oil change. Ive heard of people putting shaving cream in the passages to block them but ive never done that.
I just got my engine cover signed(It's plastic). What do you recommend for protection. It was done by a sharpie and I don't want it to come off when I wash it. Thanks in advance.
Hey Pete I'm in Queensland Australia and I'm pretty sure I can get anything really we even have eastwood distributors and I've got proper 2k epoxys and clears from my local auto paint supplies
I'm in the middle of doing a gasket kit on my engine and plan to repaint since I got it all apart anyways. It isn't show or anything just to keep the rust away. What rattle can brand do you reccomend? I used VHT before but it didnt really work before.
I really try to respond to everyone. I've had good results with Plasti-Coat. VHT is more for headers and exhaust parts. You can buy the Eastwood paints in a rattle can.
Pretty much in all of Australia, you can buy the white knight branded paint. Max temp 300c or 570f. painted my bbq with it this weekend. I Can’t really find anything that’s higher temp tho
For decades, engines did not use an oil pump as we think of it today. Oil filter kits were add on items. The rod cap had a scoop bolted on an threw oil up into the cylinders. Seems strange to think this is how they done it but it seem strange to think I worked on these. Many inline 6 cylinders had open blocks and no direction for the coolant to be directed. Buick had a brass tube that fit behind the water pump, but had slots of different sizes that forced coolant in between the cylinders as the back would run hotter. We have came a long way. I would say that even OBD-2 made engines even better on many ways.
Lebanon (the country), little is banned here but shipping from the States is generally costly, still, I have to admit, AMAZING videos, my personal favorite is the GM 350 rebuild with EFI, considering a 72 Vette and that's just what the doctor ordered, however I may just end up contacting Pete and having the engine block bought and engine rebuilt in the States then shipped over rather than worked here (not doing it myself), there's an abundance of GM blocks in junkyards here but people willing to do a OHV rebuild or any type of rebuild for that matter are few and far between if any , more European in terms of how cars are viewed here, don't modify it ...
@@PetesGarage you'd be most welcome :) ,people with a different mindset are needed here, a friend of mine had to make an arrangement with a garage owner to use just the tools to be able to rebuild a 351 Ford for his 72 Pantera, because even with money reassurance, garage owner just didn't want to dabble into the unknown and do the rebuild, took my friend a long time as well, but now ... what a car !! does stand out when the average joe has either a Korean or European hatch, and the richer Joe has any form of German or British SUV ... and sounds deliciously mechanical. We're both subbed to Pete's Garage :)
I work for a freight company here in Sydney Australia, we deal with dangerous goods all the time you just need the right qtine, customs permits and import pwk, thats about it.
