You’re welcome brother! tbh it was just as revealing to me years back when I slowly pieced it together the cause n effect and possible excess windage (hides hp) so I figured I’d share the same excitement I got
Never had a rod spun on all my frankeinstein engines (H23vtec, G23vtec) before. I've experienced 2 engine blew up but never a rod bearing spin and hoping l dont have too. But you send out a good point and good information, specially for thosw slots on forged rods, thank you very much.
@@ricardodavis9972 depends on the damage on the journals but a lot of times the nitriding or heat treatment is all but 0.040” deep so the machineshop will know better actually
Thank you brother… tbh when it was clarified to me years back it was really good for me to know and realize… so I thought it’s a nice thing to put it out there 😎
This video is so appropriate; I just took apart a B20 bottom with a spun bearing. Machine shop said all journals (Rod and main) must be cut. I am thinking about getting a replacement B18C Type R crankshaft and rods.
Oh sorry about that b20 double check the oil pump u can check the earlier video on it… And now b18c crank and rods? Maaan you doing my preferred configuration!! That gonna be a beast!!
@@Clerique I mean to show you it’s a choice I will take? I actually have a 2000 ITR crank in possession for the b20vtec need when I do it :) crank already waiting 😂🤣
OLÁ SRD 13/08/24 Pelo que vi neste vídeo, na bronzina usada houve deformação na bronzina de biela por falta de resistência da chapa de aço em relação à sua espessura e talvez com aperto excessivo nos parafusos. O furo de passagem de óleo para injeção na lateral do cilindro foi usinado após a finalização da peça contribuindo para uma 2ª deformação. A diferença de usinagem entre biela antiga e a nova identifica haver diferença no sistema de lubrificação do motor e provavelmente no perfil da bronzina. Roberto Udo Krapf
If I have a slight bottom end rattle, almost like detonation sound under load, and a low oil pressure flicker and increased bottom end noise, is this likely due to main bearings or would it be smart to replace the rod bearings also?
On the subject of pumps, I have seem people shimming the OEM B series pumps to get more pressure, but what is better, doing this or simply buying an ACL?
they’re shimming the pressure relief valve so they’re increasing at what pressure the relief opens not what it flows = I never did that cuz it’s like running a super thick wastegate spring but it turbo can only boost 12psi Wats the stiff spring for?
Yeah essentially this is a shop channel just my fb got hacked so the page isn’t accessible A shop channel I figured, rather than advertise and be cool like most lol why not share what we do? Share some info that’s actually free and was free back in the forum days that mostly disappeared now due to plenty of social media platforms… Locally the shop is doing well (Philippines) I expect some to dislike it but maybe that’s also we are showing how others tend to do a hack job and the customer deserves to be knowledgeable
Im about to build a stroked H22 using a F23 crankshaft. Because of the extra stroke the pistons get in the way of the oil squirters. Would it be bad to delete the squirters when using OEM pistons? Plan on using Type S Nippon pistons and E85 fuel
they’re not better just cuz it’s from a vtec base engine ACL b20 rod bearings is as good as ACL b16 and same with Daido But yeah free to mod to make the incorrect bearing work for the application
Interesting. All the non vtec rods I've ever seen are not slotted that's for sure... Do you think shot peening LS rods would then give them "equal strength" to a slotted rod? I understand the non slots still "restrict" flow but I'd think the cooling effect it provides is what makes them stronger/more reliable
The slot is to cool the piston the non vtec ones don’t have it because they have the rod bearing hole as I showed on the video that’s their “oil jet” Shot peening is a good way to reinforce or restore the rods strength sadly nowadays less and less machineshops are equipped to do this but a few that does, we def need to share support to them so it will continue further
Do you think at the dealership when rebuilding motors they just use plastiguage or you think they have dial bore gauge, micrometer etc..? I want to build my motor and not spend so much extra on measuring tools. Besides dial bore guage and micrometer what else should a amateur engine builder have? Whats the tool that sits on top of the block and checks if the piston comes out of the bore?
most likely dealership has the tools but also back then they had access to “all” the color coded bearings to match the block and crank etc etc whereas now the “std” we get is technically the “green” on the coded bearings hence plastiguage helps atleast to double check That took on top is I believe “deck height” measuring stand or deck bridge etc
I want to do my h22a again im curious on what wpc treating will help me most? Id love to have you guys port my head and even assemble my frm sleeved block. Im running all motor but eventually nitrous
Wpc I believe ur rods and crank could benefit from by strength improvement and also friction resistance, as I see it done mostly on gears etc but on engine internals not many care to show their secret 😂
Both seem to work the same… but even with oil jets on the GSR ? The GSR rods still has the ridges on the side as I mentioned on the video Makes us see that Honda made “sure”
@@ferdinandbenjaminco9113 yep and “torno” can easily pull it off back then I had doubts until I realize they “zero” it out right at the width so that’s zero to 0.001 def easy right
More clearance does not mean “more flow” In hindsight: more clearance also means more demand for the oil pump to fill Next someone would say “then run thicker oil” to solve the oil pressure issue, maybe it gets solved but now ur windage loss is a lot higher Takes a lot more hp eaten to drive an oil pump to run thick sludge oil
@@SRDmotorsports I have a motorcycle and I’ve haven’t had any problems yet I do have a higher oil pump pressure with a high oil relief valve.. so I haven’t seen any signs of bearing shavings in my oil .. the clearance are very similar to a k20 engine that’s why I asked .. I’m running .002” on all the mains .. and .0025” on that rods ..
@@SRDmotorsports appreciate it man I’m not too confident on it every time I make a pass I feel like something might give out today lmao .. but yes I tried to check every clearance possible to make sure everything was left as good as I can understand based on the repair manual.. thanks for the reply man much appreciated
If I wanted to go from running 5w30 to 0w20 on a d16, what steps should I take to have proper clearances and have good oil pressure. I know I can blueprint the oil pump but surely that's not sufficient. Is this just a pipe dream or something I can viably achieve? Is it something that I should even try. I'm just curious about it
I think 5w30 is quite good in my book… While 0w20 and newer oils may seem enticing let’s not forget most are “roller” rockers now so would our rocker arm pads and cam lobes will like it? Either way I think what works as far as clearances on 5w30 might be close enough for 0w20 I mean it’s not as big a diff unlike 5w30 vs 20w50. And even then people still try to run factory clearances and run that thick oil 🤣
@@SRDmotorsports I'm speaking from a purely efficiency standpoint. Whereas a lot of people are going for power building, this is an economy build for me. I was the maximum mpg possible, that's my goal for this particular engine. I figured the lighter oil could help, but have been afraid to dive in, I'm a line technician and I've rebuilt a few engines but I'm honestly a bit scared to dip my toes. So I'm here trying to research and gain insight so I can have a 50+ mpg car. It does pretty well as it stands, my record being 45.6 mpg on a tank with a mix of city and mostly highway miles. Sorry for the long posts, I'm super long winded, don't even get me started talking about tools haha. Great channel man, I enjoy your content, definitely subscribed and I hope you reach a huge audience with your knowledge.
@@HarleySLA oh man I agree not about tools… it seems I can never get all the tools that I need and there are more that I need hahaha wtf! now that u mention that? If it isn’t cammed and all? Then I see no downside in trying it My worry was on bigger cams and stiffer springs we still are not a roller rocker system… but other than that, I’ve rebuild a bunch of L15 motors from the Jazz/Fit model and the clearances (bearings) don’t seem to be that much different from the Dseries range… they got real narrow bearings doe especially rod bearings… Now when u think about it “oil exit” was definitely taken into account… Man thank you for checking the channel out, definitely appriciate that but also comments like this makes it even more fun! Plus we know some read this comments and enjoy the info too we know we know 🤣
@@SRDmotorsports Thank you very much for your time and replies. I agree 100%, there's never enough tools haha. I'll try it out and see how it does and if the oil pressure changes dramatically versus mpg, maybe a highway test. I'm thinking of building a K eventually for a swap into a 93 Integra. I have the engine, I just want to research and figure out what I want to do as far as power and drivability because it'll be a daily vehicle so I can't go too crazy. Thanks again and mad props for everything you do! Cheers from the USA
@@HarleySLA oh nice u got a K hanging out somewhere! def a good way to make crazy ideas hahaha! Thank you for this man! And on the efficiency of things I tend to talk about it cuz most of the time on performance related stuff it sometimes take a back seat when in reality it still sits in the “front seat” of things lol if it’s a stock cam and springs? I’d def look into it I mean the oem “mains” already look good in my book to handle it… the rod side clearances may aid some if u know what I mean 😎 ….il say what u said now… don’t get me started on efficiency talks especially on things like 60% of the piston ring friction comes from the oil control rings… hmmmm ok I should stop As we still actually do race locally hahahaha
@@carslover_volkswagen1 I mean just make sure clearances are good on the daido/Taiho then it’s okay unless full race And on acl/king it’s safer even for street
Oh nice a b18a but vtec ? Or stay non vtec… IMO arp rod bolts on stock rods is hard to go wrong with especially with a lighter piston at 81mm than most in a b20 that has 84mm just looking after the bearing clearances and oilpump (both plastiguage vid and oilpump vid I have here) should take you a long way
So if i wanted to use Speedfactory H beam rods for a turbo D16y8, would it be worth making those oil relief cuts on the side rods because they don't have an oiling port?
@@SRDmotorsports Ok, so a long as clearances are good and the oil pump cover has been resurfaced and ported cavitation should be an issue. I only plan to rev to 8000 rpm. Thanks for the reply.
@@SRDmotorsports Ok sweet, I also had some questions about head and manifold porting. I emailed you but my emails haven't been weird lately and not sending to who I send to. Thanks and keep up the great content.
one of them the k20 or k24 doesn’t Il double check on both k24 (not yet being assembled) and k20a (after the k24 we build this) But rod side play is VERY important
@@alitoroganan2442 all clearances is in the manual And I explained sa video about the specific things pati example given by Don Pauter Iba iba kase “tayo” pero iisa lng tama lol And that is patama to all your fb expert builder friends 😅😂🤣
@@SRDmotorsports pag kakaintindi sir ralf ndi po enough yung stock spec clearance nyo using pauter rods and acl bearings, sana dito na lang kayo sa Melbourne. Di ko po alam kung std o stdx yung dapat ko bilhin na bearings
@@alitoroganan2442 clay test it ul know… yes kung nag luwag bearing clearance dahil sa acl race ung stock sideplay bitin na… but lagi based on oem stock so the manual is important
@@SRDmotorsports ah okay I bought a b20 that had just been built and started knocking right away. Stripped it and never seen bearings in such a bad way. Somehow no damage to the crank but all the bearings turn to what looks like copper. Still trying to figure what would have caused it to fail
@@sabz_bhp look at the rod bearings = if no hole then it’s a b16 rod bearing Thrust washer if it’s installed with grooved side “in” facing aluminum block then zero to no or low oil pressure lastly Check oil pump… the oil pump cover should be “hell” to loosen if oem but if u can easily loosen it? It was propably opened and checked but not closed properly = low oil pressure Lastly oil pick up tube A lot of times the paper gasket is effed up and when tightend together it’s not air tight so the oil pump sucks air too and that’s Starbucks level froth oil to the bearings lol
