Just got mine last week and spent 17 hours getting it cleaned up, deburred, some metal finishing, etc. Runs as advertised. Thanks for the demo on the type of stuff I like to do. 140/22 + 138 thread. Got it. Thanks again.
“This might look slow, but compared to hand...” That is an excellent point. I was wondering about the foot marks - good to know that water will take them out. I just got one of these and still working on making it work right, but videos like this are really encouraging. I wasn’t really thinking that it would be useful for top quality work, but I see now that it can if you are careful. Thanks.
@@cluek9780 there's a Facebook group - Chinese leather shoe patcher - with tons of help for specific issues. Mine wouldn't sew with the thread it came with btw.
Nice to see it being used for thick finished parts... .. .You could add some drops of silicone/other lube from a syringe/needle to help with the glue. Some of the best money I've spent on Chinese cast iron. I'll be using it for adding corner reinforcement on sails one day + I have some tree climbing gear I made and need leather to finish off.
I am late to this video, but thank you for posting. Great on seeing how to start with a backstitch and moving the leather around. The 138 thread looked perfect for the holster and will test some 138 to 207. In addition I like shooting too and Glocks. I have a gun belt I want and cannot find so I will make it. It is the main reason for me buying this CLSP.
Thought Id share this for others: Groz-Beckert 134 - Size 140 / 22 - D + (138 thread) Modifide to work with a patcher The Groz Beckert are industrial and longer at 43.21 mm while the standard is 39.53 mm. Shortened the needles (or adjust the needle shaft) and ground the shank flat. If needed you can use emery cloth on the bobbin shuttle to increase space between bobbin shuttle and the needle
My presser foot does not move forward after the stitch, I’m sewing two Pieces of 8,9 ounce leather, I was thinking because the leather was too thick it’s not giving enough room for the presser foot to move up and forward, but I see your sewing thicker leather than me, what do you think could be my problem with the foot not mover forward. Did you make any adjustments for thicker material?
Thanks for the video. Would you mind posting something describing the settings you use for thick leather? I am running a heavy gauge needle and thread but still having problems with thread breaking if I stitch anything thicker than about 6 oz.
I can do something like that yeah. Based on your description it sounds like you might be threaded into the wrong bobbin hole which would cause the top thread to break. Either that or both tensions are set too high for the thicker thread.
@@cluek9780 the thicker thread has more natural drag so it doesn't need as much tension, same with the bobbin side, I often bypass the spring completely. As for the top tensioners I prefer to use both at a very low setting for a more consistent feed
Not much really. The most important things were good needles and thread. Beyond that it's a little tuning, break-in time and plenty of oil. This would be great for chap work. I use a lot of chap leather and it sews like tea cloth when it's set right
