I've been a hydraulic mechanic in the oil field for 6yrs and NEVER thought of using a closed end wrench like that to tighten that 90 degree fitting in a tight space. WOW!!
it can way overtorque fittings so watch out. the reason small niches were made for fitting was the right size tool. that also being said as a mechanic i realized weird ass size 12 point sockets fit every tap and die you could imagine. so in limited space you could literally tap almost any hole if you could drill it. wrench/ratchet wrench can work just like the socket.
In the late 60s and early 70s Lee Oil Filters were popular and successful. Chrysler came out with a service bulletin saying NOT to use Lee Oil Filters due to the Filter allowing Oil to drain out of the Filter and basically every time you started your engine the Oil pump had to refill the Filter and it was a dry start . Here we are in 2023. Some things never change. Good info !
Just got around to this last weekend. Pretty straightforward. I don't have a 15/16 ratchet, so went with an adjustable C wrench for getting the shrader valve installed. Also I couldn't quite get the thread lock adjusted to a place where I faced zero resistance screwing in / out, but doesn't look like any threads are damaged either.
I wonder what happen when you pressurize the system but forget to take the oil cap off. Blow out a crank seal or some other one? Or does the cap have a pressure release as some do?
Honestly, I got the tick around 40,000 miles on my JK, took it to have the rockers replaced and the guy at the shop recommended l just use 5W20 high mileage oil with an additive and change every 3000 miles (no more). The ticking stopped after less than 500 miles and hasn't been back at all !!!! Over 100,000 now. I swear it was like a miracle ! True story ! I hope this helps someone.
If you're actually hearing rocker tick, the damage has already been done. A heavier oil might reduce the noise temporarily but it's not going to miraculously heal damaged rockers. To be honest, better to fix it ASAP before your cam is toast or even worse, a catastrophic failure.
So I have been looking into this Baxter for a while now and finally just got mine installed like yesterday. I got my JT launch edition used but in great condition around 21000k miles. I notice the weird sound every time I cranked to start the vehicle. Took to the dealership and was told it’s normal, “how the engine sounds for this 3.6L”. But I everyday it starts to bother me to the point where I am reluctant to the start the car knowing that it would give me this “metal to metal” kind of sound at the crank. So I started to do my own little research and found your channel, which is extremely useful especially in this particular scenario. So I decided to ordered but it was back ordered. It finally came in yesterday and installed immediately. To my surprise, that weird metal to metal sound at the crank up simply GONE!! So I just want to add my personal experience, hopefully it helps other viewers. I do sympathize the cost of it though like everyone else mentioned . However, for my scenario, eliminating that weird sound each time I started the car, it is much worth it already, let alone whatever the benefit it is claimed to have which is remains to be determined. Thank you for such a detailed and helpful video instruction. From one happy jeeper 😊
once you hear sound, it's over. it's just a matter of time. Just like a wheel bearing going bad. No matter how much grease you put on it, once it starts to go, it's over.
So I've worked on a number of different 3.6 pentastar. Best thing you can do for any pentastar is run 5w 30 in my personal and just checked the valve train, and it's as tight as day one. Both my kids jeeps have had to do the top end do to running light weight oil. So in my opinion, run the 5w30. The only reason the use a lighter weight oil, is slightly better fuel mileage. Which equals about a mile or two out of a tank of fuel
This is something I have been considering. Have a ‘16 WK2 with 98K miles, and still runs great. I have been causing M1 0-w20 with Wix filters from its first oil change. But, the entire time I have wondered if the oil might be a little thin.
I've been doing the same since my engine hit 20K miles. Now sitting at 75K miles, and I never have any knocking noises like I did when it was on 0w20. I always run full synthetic
This Baxter Performance device is INGENIOUSLY BRILLIANT !!! My problem is that I have an old 3.7 that keeps on running, and running and running .... and with NO signs of 'dropping' its valve seats ........ yet.
Just PERFECT!!! I had the oil starvation problem, replaced the cam and damaged parts and driving out of the mechanic I traded it. I would have kept it if I knew about Baxter. 😳🙄🙄🙄🙄 it was my favorite vehicle ever.
Ok so I just bought a 2024 Gladiator with a 3.6 Pentastar engine, that from everything I’ve read about this engine in Wards, my first impressions are as safe as what facts I’ve read. Now I found this gizmo that makes perfect sense about an issues I’ve always known about, that I at times would actually shut whatever I was starting right off a couple times just to help get the oil pres. up. But with no key ignition might cause other issues.
I run 5 quarts of 5-30 Semi Synthetic and 1 Quart of Lucas.... No issues and it runs cooler, and all my cam sensor codes vanished. most 3.6 issues with the valve train are caused by running the 5-20 crap oil. The cam phasers love the 5-30
The problem with the rockers are a roller bearing failure and lifter failure, not a oil starvation issue, Most failures I see are customers that aren’t on top of maintenance. Just had a jk come in 4qts low on oil. This seems more like a solution to a problem that isn’t a problem.
This failure comes from the lack of lubrication upon start up over time.. The rockers and rollers and right up there at almost the highest point, every time this engine starts those parts starve for oil for a couple seconds or so. I regularly change the oil on my 2012 and can hear that clacking start up for the first 2-3 seconds every day I start it for the first time..
As soon as I heard the rocker/lifter tick on my 2013 JKUR, I stopped driving it and a few days later I did the work to replace all of them with the new "improved" rockers and lifters. Guess what? After sitting for several days, the rockers and cam shafts still had a coating of oil on them. I use a high quality oil - Penzoil Ultra Platinum but have also used Amsoil. Those are the only two I would use and are the highest quality rated oils you can buy. Still got the tick. Anyway, this initially sounded interesting but I"m just not sold on the "engineering". The Pentastar 3.6 isn't the best engine, but it's not terrible. I've got 130k on my almost daily-driven, Arizona off-roaded 2013 JKUR. I do all the work, don't skip maintenance, and fix problems as soon as they come up. It still runs like new.
I had a Ford truck straight 6 cylinder. I installed a external electric prelube oil pump when new. I got 350,000 miles out of the engine and was still fine when I sold it. Start up is a engine killer till oil pressure comes up. Also change oil at half the recommended intervals. Transmission fluid at 40,000 mark. The rear oil too. Use the best oils and filters. Use magnets.
2012 Avenger,3.6L.145k miles. Always used full synthetic,(Mobile,now Pennzoil). Changed every 6k miles. No issues. Good power,decent mileage. Just normal valve train mechanical noise. Few times a year added Marvel Mystery Oil to supplement cleaning internal components. Strong, smooth engine. Just change oil regularly and keep at full mark level.
2014 3.6 JKU. Driver side cams and followers at 100k. Oil Filter housing, cams and followers on the passenger side at 200k. I now have a blown head gasket at 305k. The life time Chrysler warranty has been a life saver so far. 2 heater cores and 3 radiators along the way too.
@rodgood Zero. I do my own oil changes and have all the receipts. I use Chrysler approved full synthetic oil at less than the required intervals. My dealer called me out on that at 100k for the first set of cams, and I told him, look in the glove box. That was the end of that.
The rockers have needle bearings though, they should hold oil in them. A two stroke engine survives with just a mist of oil blowing around thanks to using needle and roller bearings that retain some oil film.
Looks like a good product. But lets not forget that good synthetic oil are designed to provide lubrication on these dry starts. It would be interesting to know the amount of engine failures on engines using synthetic vs standard oil.
@@northridgenation My 2015 3.6 Pentastar had 205,000 miles on it when I traded it in. I used Mobil 1 Synthetic and the OEM Filter. In all of those miles I never had a single failure in the engine. I replaced one wheel speed sensor while I owned the vehicle. I think the 3.6 is a pretty good engine at least when it's left stock.
I work for a fleet that has some of these engines in the vehicles we have. They all start failing at around 80-90k miles and we change the oil every 3500 miles. It isnt lack of maintenance just piss poor design.
I run mobile one full synthetic and Fram filters in our 3.6 in a 2018 JL Wrangle. Engine went out at 38k. Stelantis then changed the engine THREE TIMES in that same year due to faulty rebuilds. Third replacement is doing well so far. I do notice a clatter when dry starting in colder temps just like the original engine did. I'm going to order this kit and see if that makes a difference.
That lock nut on the threads is going to cause a leak. Locking the threads like that causes the side to bow out, this will cause the main seal to leak. No thanks.
@@JF32304 I get it. It pushes outward, and the filter housing is plastic. Those are already notorious for failing from over-torquing the cap or cross-threading.
Late model JKs have an engine cover that will not allow this oil filter device to be used unless the cover is left off. While the OEM filter does not have a check valve to prevent draining, it would appear the engine oil pump is more than adequate to suipply what ever oil is needed shortly after start up since over 10 million of these engines have been built and it doesn't appear oil related failures with the OEM filter is an issue!
I think that no start priming process should be good enough but then your starter could go to 💩 I’ve had issues with ram lifters, rods, and cam but only after 250k miles and religious oil changes. I think regular maintenance will not give us any problems
That’s incorrect though… rocker arm failure at random intervals is by far the most common (and arguably the ONLY common) failure on the Pentastar engine; and that’s believed to be caused by needle bearing failure due to lack of lubrication. The argument is that since the oil drains back down to the pan while sitting, the valve train remains un-oiled for the first 4ish seconds upon every single start up, which obviously accelerates wear and exacerbates the rocker arm failure. This product attempts to help save these rocker arms.
@@mcspartan5822 There has never been a published total number of rocker arm failure for the Pentastar 3.6 engine so it is difficult to tell the total population involved. But certainly enough for a class action law suit against Stellantis. While the rocker arms do fail, there hasn't been any analysis other than they failed and it is unknown whether it is attributed to oil starvation, poor or improper heat treat, failure of the parent metal of the needle bearings due to any number of reasons. So to say the rocker arms failed because of oil starvation is jumping to conclusions without all the facts! There are other engine manufacturers that use the cartridge filter design as on the Pentastar 3.6 which the oil inside the filter housing can drain back to the crankcase once the engine is shut off. None of those engines have a check valve either because if they did, you would need a method, as in this aftermarket unit, to use compressed air to force the oil inside the filter housing out so you don't make a complete mess when you turn the housing loose! And in those other engines, I haven't heard of one engine failure attributed to oil starvation!!! While this after market solution certainly doesn't hurt, it doesn't prove that the rocker arm failures on the Pentastar 3.6 was attributed to oil starvation! If you have data that prove otherwise, please share!
This is a good idea for the 2nd gen 3.6 because they have variable lift intake rockers and they fail at a alarming rate,destroys the intake cam lobes mostly the pass side head.
My 2016 Chrysler 3.6 had rocker failures on both sides . I had to change to both cams on the driver side (bank 2) and one on the passenger side (bank 1).
There are so many 3.6 Pentastar engines in vehicles out there, the problems are magnified. The engine has been out a long time…nearly 14 years…and used in the Wrangler, Gladiator, Grand Cherokee, Challenger, Charger, 300, Grand Caravan, Pacifica, RAM 1500, and the smaller 3.2L Pentastar used in other Chrysler models. With that many engines out there…yeah, a few have the cam lobes / lifter problem but most do not. Change your oil regularly; it’s a great engine.
Cool product, but when our JK's have been sitting for a while, I just use the "Plug Clear Mode" to prime the oil system and then start the engine. Works every time for FREE!!!
@@albertaboyz You hold the accelerator to the floor and crank the engine. It'll continue to crank without starting, allowing the engine oil system to be primed and have oil throughout the engine. I usually do it for about 5-7 seconds, remove my hand from the pedal, and then give it one final crank to start and I have not heard the chattering rockers since.
The video convinced me so I clicked the link. Holy guacamole, $342! I guess I'll continue to "clear flood" before starting. I've done this for years. Accelerator to the floor and turn the key...let turn for 3 seconds and then let go of the accelerator and the Jeep starts. If someday I do decide to buy, I will go through Northridge as I've done for plenty of mods for my Wrangler to help it when offroading.
Does the "clear flood" work on a 2016 Wrangler ? It's a good idea. I run synthetic oil too. Lately I've been working from home. If my Wrangler sits for two weeks I hear a VVT rattle. It lasts for a seconds and clears up. Other than that if I drive every day, every other day or once per week, no problem at all.
I've got a jeep wrangler 2013 model and I put Valvoline 5.20 oil and Lucas synthetic high mileage and nock on wood my 3.6 is doing 👌 great. And I live in Tennessee
Just make sure you keep the original oil filter used and the original cap on hand if you need to have warranty service done, as you want to reinstall the original components before you bring it in, as they will use that as an excuse to deny warranty service if an engine component fails.
You all will say it has no horsepower, but the 3.8 in my Jeep has 255k miles. One intake gasket leaked a little antifreeze. THAT'S IT . Newer does not mean better .
I have a coolant leak on my 2020 3.6 gladiator. I smell it on cold start up at exhaust. What were the signs of the intake gasket leak? Dealer couldn’t find the cause(no oil In coolant and no coolant in oil, and no pressure loss in cooling system supposedly.) the smell and my coolant reservoir being low says otherwise. Runs good tho so they said drive it till it throws a code unfortunately.
Sometimes I feel sad for my JKU 3.slower (3.8L) then I see all the issues in the 3.6 and everything goes away and and happy again 😊 160k on the odometer and still running strong, slow, but strong 😅 . Only major issues: Torque converter replaced with tranni oil pressure solenoid, All the O2 sensors. That’s it .
Been just starting my 3.6 normally since Oct. 2011 until now and never had an issue with anything engine or oil related. Still have the same starter and only changes the battery once since then. Still runs like a champ.
Same with my '14 ram. Since 2017, anyway. Still using original battery from 2014! I do notice the ticking noise in the first few seconds but it rapidly subsides. I'm back and forth on getting this part...
I just received mine today. Swapped the old plastic oil cooler housing for the aluminum one in my journey. Gonna throw this in soon. Now gotta do it on the ram. I’m glad i found out about all this before something serious happened.
Logic dictates that oil will stay above the check value. Which as you state is in the new filter adapt. So any oil in the cooler will drain back to the pan as it is below the check valve.
Bingo, I kept waiting to see if he was going to address that.. would like to know how much oil is in the filter and if that amount would make a difference. I feel like an oil additive with friction modifier would be the better answer
The higher the mileage, the higher the number of oil visc to use. Dont use too thin new engine oil on non new engines. Older engines have wear out have more space between parts so they need thicker oil. ASE Certificated engine Mechanic for 36 years
@@Kiddro22 it compensates for wear on the engine. The higher the milage / the higher the tolerances in the bearings get. That means less oil pressure at the bearings and will cause more wear. So it's good to go for higher viscosity oil when the engine is worn out to keep it safe
I installed Baxter's device on my Chrysler200 with the pentastar v6 after I installed an all aluminum oil cooler. No more valve rattle on start-up. Hopefully I saved it with only 52k miles on it.
why not just pre oil like you showed, which is a cool hack I didn't know about? $330 plus for an oil filter adapter? That I have to use an air compressor to change oil? That forces all the oil I'm supposedly saving out of the oil galleys? That I then have to pre oil when oil change is complete, right? Because all the oil is out of the galleys per the air being injected? Why not just use the pre oil step without the adapter? This might be a thing on 1st and 2nd gen 3.6, but the 2018 version and beyond have been built to prevent wear noted in earlier designs. I'm on my 4th 3.6, all versions, over 250,000 miles between them all, only one to tap a little was the 2013 3.6. Fixed with lucas low viscosity modifier additive.
Pretty Cool. I was wondering about the mess it would make at first sight. Makes since now about the valve on the side. I was scratching my head for a sec lol. Cool tip with the ratchet wrench. 30 plus years of turning wrenches and learn something new everyday.
You also should buy that aftermarket aluminum filter housing and factory plastic ones leak oil into the lifter valley and I heard they can also leak water into the engine, at least on the minivans
@@northridgenation our 2018 Pacifica filter housing was leaking but that's the least of its problems 67,000 mi and it needs a new engine because it started drinking coolant and it's never been overheated and well maintained
This happens on every single one of these motors. I've probably installed 30 or 40 of those oil coolers in the last two years. I'm just an independent repair shop
@mastermnd22 Yup, I'm on board. Before installing a replacement engine, the oil cooler housing will be upgraded as well as the cartridge to oil filter can conversion also. This should make the second iteration of my rig full of a lot more peace of mind! Oh! Don't forget the E3 spark plugs!
He is Correct, 60% of wear on any engine is from start up. Having a high Quality synthetic motor oil like Amsoil Signature series 100% synthetic Clings to metal surfaces...
Having a good oil film on everything is great. The bigger issue with newer engines is getting enough volume and pressure to get the cam phasers and timing chain tensioners up to operating pressure.
That's a neat feature. Some oil filters have a valve inside as well. Makes me wonder tho wy these engines have such a problem with the dry starts. My 40 year old Audi has over half a million miles with dry starts and is still fine
Older engines have less problems. It's all the new cam phasers, timing chain tensioners and other items that need both oil volume and pressure to operate properly.
Two questions. You were showing a metal oil filter holder/cooler where the Jeep JK has a plastic one. Being plastic it does have a tendency to crack and start leaking as I have heard. Wouldn’t this device put more strain on the plastic since it sits higher and would probably vibrate back and forth more? You were demonstrating with a Jeep JL. What modifications do you need to do to the JK to install this? Aren’t there better oils out there that tend to cling to the engine parts after oil drains away and reduce wear until fresh oil is pumped to the parts?
Great questions. 1) Yes, the plastic ones tend to develop leaks as they get older. The metal one we had was an aftermarket replacement. 2) Yes, that could add more strain to the plastic bowl, if you have a higher mileage engine, it might be a good time to replace that oil cooler. They take a while to do, but it's not too hard. Maybe we should do a video how-to? 3) The JK 3.6 is pretty much the same, except they have those hoses I mentioned that you need to move out of the way. Make sure to get the correct year adapter for your JK. 4) Yes, there are good oils out there, but they all will eventually drain away.
@@northridgenation I would very much like to see how this is done on a JK as I own one and I can hear the valves ticking each time I start the vehicle until they get oiled. Which is approximately a few seconds. When I first realized what the ticking was and what I knew was occurring I brought my 2014 JKU to the dealership and after much arguing I walked out. I’m pleased to see that my point is validated by this video. I’m looking forward to the new video. And I will purchase one!! Thanks.
One good point to make, if you have one of the earlier JK models with a plastic oil cooler housing, is to go ahead and upgrade that whole piece to an aluminum one. Just had mine blow and found out this is essentially guaranteed to happen due to the cheaper part. Might as well upgrade that if adding this adapter. Already upgraded mine and definitely going to add this adapter. Thank you for the educational video!
The First Gen 3.6 had a problem with oil Galley plugs backing out,what would happen is that the oil pressure would drop on the valvetrain and the oil would over saturate the timing cover area,there are 2 plugs on each head.This causes oil starvation in the valvetrain area.chewed cam lobes,and roller.rocker damage.
I use 5w-20 penzoil high mileage full synthetic with Lucas high mileage . I don’t hear that dry start as much( or hear it at all) as I did when I used 0w-20. However, I may look into this in the future . I have 130,000 in my GC
My 2012 wrangler has 135K trouble free miles with the stock oil cooler housing. I did have the recalled head changed at around 24k miles back in early 2014. other than that, I've had no problems so far using Mobil 1 oil. I do have the doorman aluminum oil cooler on hand though to replace my brittle plastic cooler.
Well, i attempted to leave a more detailed comment with several questions, but it does not show. So my additional question besides those i already tried to ask is what the long-term effect is of forcing air past the pressure bypass of the oil pump? That seems like trading one issue for another, isn't it? I am adding in some of my original questions that disappeared. We actually have a 3.2L engine in our Cherokee. How much sooner is oil supplied to the upper engine using this? I didn't hear that mentioned at all. I looked on the Baxter website and see nothing stating how much improvement there is. Show us the proof in the test data. Show us the test setup of how that is measured in real testing. Exactly where is the oil being retained by this Baxter assembly? Just the new spin-on filter? How does the retained oil get released from filter to help the upper engine? Only once oil flows from pump to the filter? What am i gaining besides a $379.95 new filter contraption plus cost of a filter?
Baxters say that it cuts down the oiling time about half. As far as benefits, multiple people have chimed in this comment section about how much quieter their 3.6 is on start-up. It doesn't quiet them all down. If you already have some serious ticking going on, this may not do much.
The mishimoto coolant filter is most important on the first couple years of 3.6s. They had a lot of problem with the sand left over from casting in the heads. In general though, anytime you can add a filter to something to help keep it cleaner, it will will help the component(s) live longer.
I put 100K mi on my 2014 JKUR with loads of highway and harsh off road miles everywhere from Death Valley to Fairbanks, AK doing nothing more than routine oil changes. My wheels (okay axle) literally fell off after a catastrophic lower control arm bracket failure before I ever had a single engine problem.
"Loads of highway" - I think the problem is going to be a function of how often you start the jeep, especially after it sat for awhile. I can literally hear my jeep dry-start for 2-3 seconds because I only drive it once or twice a week at most. If you drive it often and your trips are longer, you're less likely to see the problem before 100K miles.
I have a 1989 Isuzu Trooper with a GM 2.8 (now 3.1) V-6. Those geniuses have the oil pressure switch that has to have oil pressure before the engine will start much less run. My Ford 460 has a manual choke on the carb and I will crank the engine for a second or two for oil pressure to come up before I pull it out to start. Too bad I cannot do anything for my Jeep Wrangler; btw I had a major manufacturers oil filter fail its anti-drainbsack valve where it drained the oil in the valve train and crank back through the filter and oil pump.
Probably the only downside is your dealer won't do your oil changes. BUT we do our own changes anyway, so we can see what is going on. So, no loss in our book.
Just hold the gas pedal to the floor when you go to start it..... It will not attempt to start when you do that, and then you can simply crank it for a bit until the oil pressure builds. Then let off the pedal and it will start normally with oil pressure already built-up.... 🤷
So if using "clear plug mode" works to lubricate the upper valve train at cold starts, why would you not just use this clear plug mode when starting cold as opposed to modifying the oil filter setup to achieve the same results you can achieve for free?
@JohnWalkerCharlotte You don't get it... You'd STILL be cranking the engine with ZERO oil or oil pressure. Also, it would be VERY hard on the starter to be doing this EVERY time you start the engine. If you do the filter mod, it KEEPS the oil from draining back to the pan every time you shut it off, and you ONLY have to do the "clear plug routine" WHEN you change your oil and filter to reprime the system.
Same engine as used in the premium grade Chrysler 200. Poweful in a sedan sized car with variable drive train. Replaced oil filter / cooler housing and intake gaskets; housing mount seals leaking coolant and oil. Ran smoother after intake gasket change; must have had small intake air leak.
The LS engines take between 5-10 seconds to pump oil to the top of the engine, in the Old school Chevy small blocks, and Hemi engines it can be between 1 minute to 5 minutes. I kind of think this is a solution that may never have had a problem
It's a problem with the newer engines that have cam phasers and hydraulic timing chain tensioners that need both oil volume and pressure to get up and running properly. None of those engines you listed have those.
@@northridgenation OH that makes sense, mine is a 2015 and I'll go ahead and pick one up when I hit the oil change, why wait for there to be an issue right 👍 AND thank you for the response 👍
My 2018 JL rubicon makes a lot of noise at start up been doing that from day one currently has 36k on it. Always figured something ain’t right noise stops after a few seconds. Also in the summer whit AC on and the engine fan comes on it’s the loudest thing I’ve ever heard sounds like a freight train,
The 2.7 in the new bronco has the same style oil filter system….I bought a similar set up from Baxter for it! With all the Knowledge of engines and what causes damage , I don’t understand why manufactures design stuff like this?
@@northridgenation But what side of the oil filter is the oil being pushed back into the oil pan? If it's from the dirty side where all of the debris collects, it's going to go right into the new oil filter at start up.
Mopar oil is actually Pennzoil that get's branded Mopar. If they use ultra platinum and not straight platinum oil mix from Pennzoil than there is not really a "higher quality" oil. Amsoil maybe? If they are using straight platinum blend than there is better, especially in the cold start/cold climate scenario. All my opinion here ( not talking just about the valve train noise, but about complete protection ), I think the most important thing to do is change the oil every 3K no matter what the oil you are using. We had a Jeep Patriot that started making valve train ticking noise @ 90K. Still going well at 165k +/- and then traded it in due to never really liking the Patriot to begin with. I was not running Mopar oil or ultra platinum when we had this vehicle. I was however nervous over it like everyone should be. Glad to here no more noise though. I hope the additive package in the oil that you are using will do a good job at everything and not just stop the ticking for you and not be as good in other areas if you know what I mean. What oil did you switch to?
I'm still not sold on how a little less than a quart of oil being held in the spin on filter lubricates all 12 rockers at cold start any faster than the oil pump would. Though I agree anything someone can do to help the 3.6 is a noble effort, the cost to effectiveness ratio just isn't here unless I'm missing something.
Yes, we do our own oil changes. For those who have the dealer do the oil changes, it would be best to talk to them first, make sure they are fine with using a different filter.
they put the oil cooler right next to the fuel injectors....so it can help cook and boil the fuel in the lines and cause clogging on the tips of the injectors...GREAT idea
While this seems like a must have, sadly I won't be getting one anytime soon. I'm still waiting for you guys to call me back about having you sell and install a lift kit in my jlu. With several spine injuries it's something I physically can do anymore. Been 3 months now and no callback and of course now my points I had accumulated have expired, how convenient for me.
Man I've ran the same oil for two years now in old 4.0 in my xj crawler last summer i blew a radiator hose and drove it off the trail empty on coolant it got so hot we mekted 3 injector o rings and I've yet to change thd oil after the misshap last year's 4th and have run it the entire summer . this 4.0 has 99k miles on it sits fir weeks without getting started as well ...lol... that minivan motor is weak sauce reliability wise compared to i-6.
The last product you asked us to use was the Mishimoto Coolant Filter. You told us you were going to make a follow up video but you never did. There are millions of these vehicles on the road without issues.
Only drawback I could see is no matter how long I let these drain in this orientation I have a bunch of oil come out in this style of filter. My valley of the engine gonna be full of oil after every oil change.
Exactly! Hit the Schrader valve with some compressed air and the oil is blown right out and back to the oil pan, making it one of the cleanest oil changes you've ever done.
One of the reasons I always use my remote start. You can hear the oil pump prime during the remote start process. It's also better to let the engine run until the RPM settles to idle before driving off. That's always been best for any engine.
That's your fuel pump. The oil pump is mechanically driven, and doesn't pump unless the engine is running, so therefore, you are imagining things, and getting no benefit whatsoever.
i mark my filter with a white marker pen then count 10 complete turns. on my first install on my 2021 wrangler i had to make a metal plate to remount the little compressor next to the filter to get it out of the way of the new filter .its a jl 3.6
I went and looked at the price thinking it was actually insane per your comment. It’s only $350 😂😂 ever buy a motor? This is a cheap way to prolong you engine life.
