MrKeyboardCommando Hahahaha No thank you, I'll stay in Texas, the Gulf Coast Area! Davey Crockett said it best... "You may all go to hell, I'm going to Texas!"
I had a rusty railing on my house so I knocked off the loose rust with a wire brush then painted with POR15, finally painted with black paint. It's been 5 years and it still looks great and I'm in the NE not in SolCal, it snows here
FANTASTIC stuff, I've been using it for years, and just yesterday on my Dodge. Accept no substitute, because there is none. But one word of caution: Use nitrile gloves, available cheap at Harbor Freight and elsewhere. Because POR 15 is impervious to all solvents, if it dries on your hands, the ONLY thing that will take it off is TIME. When resealing the can, put a sheet of plastic food wrap between the can and the lid, then tap it down because if the product dries the two together, you'll destroy the can getting the lid off the next time.
***** i own a few datsuns and therefore use por15 all the time and I can tell you that it definitely can be used over rust directly with no prep as long as there is no oils on it. por15 works by mechanical adhesion so a rough rusty surface is perfect for it, but when oil is embedded in the pores of the metal it gets in the way of that. its not Paint Over Oil. This makes it not so good for the underside of a car unless you degrease it really well. It's not strictly an automotive product however and works great at encapsulating rust to stop it.
bluestripes1 Ditto on my '72 Charger. Had some places I could not get the rust out of short of dipping or blasting the car. Used POR15 six years ago, still no bubbling or problems.
It can not protect the material if it never comes in contact with it. That is why the removal of as much rust as possible is advised. You would have to lack all common sense to try and paint over flaky rust and expect it to work optimally. I have used this stuff and its the best, but expensive.
Nice to see that Jay takes his time to help these small companies with promotion of their American made products. This is why Jay is successful. He never forgot where he come from, and has a passion for what he does. Thanks Jay
I've used this stuff on my 1995 Mercedes which was developing a small rust spot near one of the rear wheel wells. I followed the instructions and the stuff worked great. Dries rock-hard too. I put a spot of touch-up paint over the repair and it's virtually impossible to see unless you're really looking closely. After about two years no sign of the rust returning at all.
I first used this product 22 yrs ago to repair rusty water cooling towers. A word of Warning! DO NOT get any on your skin! If you do ,wipe off immediately! I got some of the silver product on my forearm,and the moisture on my skin caused it to cure. The only way I got it off,was to scrape it off and it took a lot skin with it! Read and follow instructions. If you top coat with paint, apply paint while product is "tacky" or It will dry hard and paint will not adhere. Then you will have to sand. A great product!
the instructions now say if you get it on your skin it will be there for a few days until the oils in you skin flake it off. I got a little on my arm and there was still some residue when I "wiped it off immediately" . A few day later and it was gone.
The problem with coatings like POR15 is that if there is ANY shortcoming in the surface preparation, it will not bond properly leading to a real problem. This can be a disaster if the previous owner applied it without any real surface prep.
I had a rusty railing on my house so I knocked off the loose rust with a wire brush then painted with POR15, finally painted with black paint. It's been 5 years and it still looks great and I'm in the NE not in SolCal, it snows here. Stuff works great, just a little expensive but worth it
This is true... Truth be known I respect the very fact that this person has correctly used the word -their- in a sentence! But honestly... That’s good info. to know
I had really good results with the fuel tank kit, but it completely phosphates the rust right off with a prep solution before the coating goes on its not like por 15 I don't think.
So to Paint Over Rust, you first mechanically remove the rust, then chemically convert any remaining rust, then paint with POR when there is no more rust. But wait, it gets better. After you Paint over the NON rust, you then have to paint with something else! Yes, read the can, POR needs to be top coated with some other paint, lol. Ya gotta love marketing.
I brought this product followed the instructions to the letter and the rust spots came back. Tried it again in the same area following instructions again. Rust came back on my white car in the same area i just treated twice. Stuff is crap!
Por-15 tank sealer is some good stuff..... when I make a custom fiberglass gas tank for a custom car, truck, boat, plane or motorcycle, I use POR-15 tank sealer....... Just be sure to let it sit in a warm place so it can cure...... We've had ZERO issues so far using POR-15. If you cant find POR-15 and you need something right away to seal or re-line the inside of a repaired, rusty or new fiberglass tank, you can buy another GREAT product called RED KOTE ....You use it the same way as POR-15....... 100 uses for this stuff!
I agree about the Red Kote Mr. Roach. The POR-15 paint is another story. The stuff lifts off in sheets even with a great prep job. I liken it to snake oil... For the underside of a car, it's cheaper and better to use a 2 part epoxy paint or 2 part urethane. The POR-15 has no hardeners. That alone says a lot. I suspect it's a totally different situation on your fiberglass parts. It would be fun to do some side by side experiments.
Hi Greg, I cant speak for any other products made by POR-15 other then the tank sealer, If done right, ITS Good Stuff with Red Kote coming in a close second. As far as the OTHER POR-15 products go, I have no clue and cant honestly agree or disagree with any positive or negative statements made by anyone. HOWEVER...... Knowing You As I Do, Your Quality of Work, Your Kind & Gentle Nature, Your Genuine Honest Personality etc..etc.... If You Say There Is A Problem With The POR-15 Paint, Then I'm 100% Sure There Is A Problem With The Paint!!!!! .... No Doubt In My Mind! ! ! ! ! Greg, if you're interested in doing some side by side products testing? ..... By all means, Lets Do Some Side By Side Test........ Knowing JAY and The Big Dogs In His Garage As I Do, I'm 100% Sure that JAY and the World Class Mechanics and Fabricators in the Big Dog Garage will promote & use anything that we come up with. I'm Ready To Hear Any Ideas
Greg's Garage If You can work with epoxy and urethane- no point even purchase POR-15. For me it works, because I'm lazy and just want to get some spots where I don't really want to work on, but able to reach from laying down in the driveway position
ummmmm I think thats a NEW label to keep them out of trouble just in case, I have to quarts here from 2009 and there is no such info on the cans....even some fuel cells for race gas says the same thing now.
I used POR 15 when I was in Auto Body back in high school. This stuff works amazingly. My teacher deminstrated how good it is buy taking a piece of cloth and coating it with POR15 and the next day we could drill and tap into that piece of cloth. this stuff is awesome
Used this crap on 1995 Toyota 4Runner. Did all 3 steps as instructed. Spent a week under the truck in a chemical suit with a paint brush. Looked great! For about a year. All the rust came back. Thanks for an overpriced gimmick that wasted my time and money. Don't get any on ya!
Sure. Paint " right over rust" , BUT FIRST....! They're misleading with there statement. If you have to de-rust & clean the object, THEN YOU ARENT PAINTING OVER RUST !!! There's a good RU-vid video of a guy who actually painted over rust. Hahhahaha
In my experience with it you just need to remove the big flaky stuff degrease it and the phosphoric acid helps it stick to unrusty metal. So yes you can brush it over rust. My dad and I have used it for years and thats all we do.We've never had the rust come back. You can literally hit it with a hammer and the metal will bend but the POR 15 doesn't break.
I have used this and Rust Bullet and the latter is a much better product. The POR products require a lot of preparation prior to the coating. You can apply Rust Bullet directly with minimal prep. I have panels that were rusty with Rust Bullet painted over for the last 14 years outdoors rain or shine and no issues!
I don't understand why vehicle companies don't come up with a paint that will protect there cars and trucks from rusting. I know Ferrari dips their car frames in a liquid that actually prevent the vehicles from rusting. I'm pretty sure other automotive companies can do the same.
Most do have this process. Its called E- Coating. Most manufacturers do this. The Cars and parts get dipped. When a panel is scratched or damaged the bare metal is exposed and the rust takes over like cancer.
They do. Its called galvanizing. Modern sheet metal is double galvanized, meaning there is a zinc coating applied to both sides of the metal before paint. If the zinc coating is compromised however, that is where the rust will start first.
@@peteschifferle1594 Fluid Film. It's a spray-on lanolin product, usually in an aerosol can. Sold at the right stores or on amazon. It's not a paint, though.
Great product, even though, a little pricey...Well worth it, applied to some rust spots on the door of my Datsun 280zx. Not only has the rust never returned, but the repair is undetectable. Awesome stuff.
Jay, we love ya - and POR15 is a great product, but over in the rust belt there is only one way to keep a chassis for decade after decade: fluid film. Oily metal cannot rust.
Do not rustproof your undercarriage with this gimmick unless you are 100% certain you have no salt hiding in nooks and crevices. You dont want to coat and seal salt on your frame by painting over it because it will be eating away at your steel frame except you won't know it because you painted over it. Sure it looks good, but that's about it. This stuff will help rust spread if you paint it over hidden salt.
This video was posted 6 years ago. Do you still use this product, especially on motorcycle gas tanks, or during this time you found a better alternative? Thank you.
I know a rally racer who stated POR-15 on suspension components withstands blasting of rock, gravel and dirt better than Power Coat paint. POR-15 is tough.
Ive used this a few times. Ive got an Evo with a fuel tank painted with it. I had the tank blasted. Acid treated with the stuff from the kit and then applied the POR15 and its all coming off after only 2 years. Same with the rear arms and propshaft. Waste of money.
Used the gas tank liner and it worked very well. Did not use any prep materials just stuff I had at my house. Make sure to be patient and let it cure fully.
I used a quart of POR15 back in the 90’s & I didn’t feel that it lived up to the advertised promise; with that said, I admit that maybe I wasn’t thorough enough on prep; you can never be too diligent. There are so many products available today, it’s hard to know what works best for guys like us, building stuff in our garage & driveway. Rustoleum is cheap, it’s available everywhere, it looks decent & it’s pretty forgiving unless you want show car quality & that’s just not in the cards for the way I live...
A way I killed rust: 🚲 I had a rusty bike... I knew someone who was a mechanic, I went to his garage... and took the bike apart into a few smaller pieces And dipped them in a large drum of Coca-Cola and it came right off! And it preserved the paint... if Coca-Cola takes off rest like THAT! imagine what it does when you drink it... yum!
I used the POR-15 fuel-tank repair kit on my '68 Ford Galaxie 500 convertible, and it worked perfectly for me. I did the sealer on the inside of the tank, and the paint on the outside of the tank. It looks like a brand-new tank. You just have to make sure to follow ALL the instructions -- and take your time. This is not a quick process.
I've used this stuff in the past and it works as advertised. It's the best stuff on the market as far as I'm concerned. Of course there is prep for it to work properly but if you did the same with paint, rust will return where this will stop it permanently.
i like this guy, he wasnt trying to sell his product at all....he was just beeing cool and talking about it.....only god knows if its all true or if this video is scam.
He was being cool and talking about it. That's selling it. I'd trust a guy like this more than I would some uppy salesman. He's just calmly showing what the it can do. He's letting the product sell itself
Instead of all these Anti-Rust products how about they make cars out of materials that don't rust, like stainless steel or aluminum. Stop using cheap sheet metal. Look at Delorian. Over 40 years old and those bodies still look brand new without a lick of paint.
Great stuff, I coated the floor boards top and bottom of my 41 Lincoln 6 years ago and it eliminated the further rust spread. I used their acid etch prior to coating, fast and easy and it works.
I used a product called "Extend" to cover rust and top coated it with an oil based primer. A year later rust is showing through. I wish I had known of this product.
Your oil based coating might have worked better if a second coat had been applied. Lots of pin holes are usually present after just one coat. For the US Navy's bilge service, a two-part epoxy two-coat system is used with the first coat containing a fluorescent dye. Any fluorescence observed following the top coat gets a followup spot coat. The warranty went from something like two years to 15 years.
Thanks Jay! First product I've seen you feature that I've used too. This stuff is AWESOME! I used it on my '72 Charger about 6 years ago and full prep or minimal prep (degreased, could not remove rust) it is still working! Only problem spots are because of a tarp that rubs off any product over time.
I am familiar with POR15 and have used it and it does work very well. The phosphoric acid treatment neutralizes the rust and the paint coating is amazingly strong! Car guys who live is high rust areas: just put in a small order and try it out, you'll love it. Promise. I painted some old rusty weights and have been clunking them around and the paint has held for about five years so far.
Totally agree. I've used it on the frames of a Jeep and a F100 and its brilliant and looks incredible. Dominion Sure Seal makes a knockoff product Called DOM16 which costs less too. Its easy to get carried away, It made me want to paint everything.
the products sound interesting but the brand name "POR15" which means "PaintOverRust" is a lie ! You still have to remove rust before application so its not a real POR product like others out there !
I used it to paint over my rusty frame...all I did was beat off the chunky rust with a hammer and a scraper, hit it with a power washer and brushed it on. you can still see all the pits from the rust, but the stuff is still on there 2 years later...only a couple of small places have rusted any more. I'm sure it would be in the junk heap by now if I hadn't done it. Great stuff!
WHAT other products? I've used POR15 to salvage a fuel tank. Lots of work but it worked well. This line of 'paint over rust' products doesn't make outrageous claims, it just asks you to prep the surface first. So what's the problem?
Exactly.. these idiots have a hard time understanding that painting over loose scale will leave rust untreated underneath and more than likely exposed to air. These are the kinds of guys that were still shitting their pants in kindergarten as well....
If you paint a piece of sandpaper, it is then colored sandpaper. Of course the better the prep the better the paint job. I used this product (better have a good understanding that the overspray from this product is toxic DO NOT BREATHE OR LET IT OTHERWISE GET IN YOUR SKIN OR EYES) and after 13 yrs. (so far) on my sandblasted 70's corvette frame, suspension arms, drive shaft, brake calipers, etc...still looks like new. I also agree that top coating is best done after a brief flash period of the product as you would do successive coats of enamel paint. I used the remainder of the paint in my paint gun cup to coat a unprepped cast iron table base for an outdoor table, didn't bother to top coat and sits in the weather ever since. It got dull from the sun and weather but is still holding up. A small amount of flash rust is always present in pitted metal but the product is made to encapsulate the metal. Its the best product I've used for old metal. Probably next best thing to powder coat or dipping for new metal for a DYI.
Fluid film ! Its a lanolin based product you can spray or brush it on and a product i haven't tried yet, NH OIL... oh...i saw your Pantera video ! Awesome, but if its narrow inside like a 911, my shoulders are too broad to shut the door unless i scrunch up, then they get sore and i was wondering if air got under the front at high speed and lift the car up,my 69 vette would actually be forced lower due to aero dynamics around 95-100 mph and handled great at speed.
I would like you (Jay) and all the guys in the garage, and the poor guy holding the mike and cam....... filling my "don`t know what to do time" ..in such a good , complimenting co-existing relationship with my beer consumption..a very..very happy new year..♫♪♫♫♪♫♪..... ps.its 2 in the morning..
You need to use their degreaser first, that use the metal prep which kind of etches the metal, than you can put the POR15 on. The metal can still be orange and rusty looking, as long as you did the prep it will be fine. You could paint the POR15 right onto the rust, but like with all paint (i'm a painter) if the prep is not done right the final product will be lower quality.
Bare metal needs to be prepped, but you can apply it straight onto rust after you clean off the loose debris. (POR stands for Paint On Rust). I've used it and it's awesome.
Try OSPHO. There are other similar products out there that are just Phosphoric acid. This company sells so much commercially that they do little advertising-it's that good. Just paint it on after removing the loose rust, let it convert the Iron Oxide to Iron Phosphate (an inert compound) and primer/paint:)
Never ever get it on your hands or skin or anything.. I had it on my hands for one month! Amazing good product! Works best .. I used on dump truck road salt NYS bad rust.
