When God created the heavens and earth, I imagine he had Keith V.J. on special assignment, as ambassador, to all us natural stone honing junkies out there.
Hi Keith great to see ya again and grata for the vid you hit the nail on the head there’s a lot of guys out there thinking there’s a magical edge out there for me as long as I get a good shave I’m ready for the day. Anyway great to see you again all the best cheers
have you ever used synthetic nagura by naniwa? i used a "12k" nagura on one side of my snow white and it does give it that bump up feel to where you can physically feel a difference in sides. synthetic nagura are used for different functions from what i understand more to change the hardness of the surface of the synth stones than the slurry.
Long ago I experimented with using slurry on synths and after much actual testing, comparison, and high powered visual inspection I stopped doing it pretty quickly. Typically, when honing razors, using synth slurry on synths ( or naturals for that matter) above 1-3k is counterproductive. On coarser stones it will add speed which can help when removing damage. The abrasive floating in solution impacts a fine apex in a not-good way, and it will have a negative effect, exactly like honing on an auto-slurrying Coticule. With those auto-slurry coticules, the fix is to hone under running water to remove the free floating abrasive, which works great. Same principal works when addressing fine edges on fine synths I've found that It's much more productive to keep finer synths clear when honing razors. When sharpening knives or tools that synth slurry 'mud' can help speed things up and because the edge is not so fine as a razor's edge there are less consequences. The synth slurry does not refine or break down so it just keeps banging into the apex like the auto-slurry garnets on those problematic coticules does. With heavy blades, the added 'tooth' to an apex might be a plus in some cases. Sometimes guys honing razors mistake toothy for sharpness thogh, so the edge quality is really task dependent. The small synth nagura have been normally intended to be used for clearing embedded swarf, leveling, adjusting surface condition etc. Vendors like to make up stories though. Norton used to sell a Nagura with their combo stone, it was for dressing, not slurrying, Chosera used to come with rubbers, same story, Suherio stones had rubbing stones also.
@@KeithVJohnson1 i find that what you say is true. i experimented with one side of my snow white and one side of my naniwa 12k. keep in mind i am also sharpening bushcraft knives like bark river and fallkniven so it helps to have one side slightly harder or dressed. i can tell by the way the dressed side removes steel that the surface has become less course and more uniform. also does do that great job of cleaning the synth. i will look out for what you said as i have had problems recently. that makes sense. cheers boss. when your shop comes back im buying a finisher stone. should not use syth naniwa nagura dressing on an jnat? im thinking not for later the finish. thanks boss. appreciate you.
Great session! That tenjyo slurry went dark in just a couple of minutes. Is that a result of a faster/more abrasive tenjyo, softer steel, pressure or something else?
A lot of factors add into slurry coloring. Sometimes one particular slurry suspends swarf better so it gets darker looking faster. Sometimes the the batteries in my lights start to die and makes things darker than usual. That was actually happening and I didn't notice until editing started. Helje steel is fairly hard, that Tenjyou is middle of the road in all regards. From what I remember (made this video in January) and looking now, it seems typical to to me, maybe a tad more density to the color.
Curious if you ever lap or check for flatness on your jnat whenever doing a full asano progression. Know it is stone dependent, but I found myself lapping before koma/toma on my current base stone. Nice video and love that base stone.
