Glad to see you back. Thanks for the tips! I snagged 2 100+ year old shumate razors in really good condition for $5 for the set. Got them sanded down just a bit, cleaned up, and honed with the lapping film/diamond pasted balsa technique that I’m thrilled with the results on for total cost to complete. Got a couple really exciting w&b wedge blades that are proving quite challenging to set the bevels on though...
man i am not sure if that was a razor or a shank 😂😂😂 really liked that finish myself . i like to see a bit of history left on the blade . great job buddy . another razor brought back from the scrap pile to shave again and for me that is what it’s all about 👍👍
Nothing wrong with leaving a little DNA evidence on a refurb/resto! 🤣 Been there, done that on a few antique hand planes. Every video you share is a treasure trove/master class in Demonstrated Knowledge.
Great work as usual Keith great to see my favorite program back in action gotta admit that looked like a shark at first but I knew you'd save it speedy recovery you got this gratz
Thanks for sharing the video and your experience. Which grit do you recommend to use to set the bevel of lowered razors (I mean a restored razor completely without its bevel)? Does it make sense to use grits lower than 1,000 to speed up and simplify the work (for example a grit 500) or are they grits too low for a razor blade? Thanks in advance
It depends on the blade and how skilled the user is. Coarse stones remove a lot of metal fast and it is easy to make irreversible mistakes when using them. I myself do use very low grit stones when appropriate, but I would not recommend the same for inexperienced users. As a rule of thumb, unless the blade is damaged, a 1000x waterstone stone of good quality can handle the job efficiently.
I try to keep comments focused on the video's topic so the conversation can stay focused and not wander too far off course. That said, this video might prove to be helpful - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XCa_gwbDG7Y.html
