For whatever it's worth, back in my machinist days I was taught to take one full turn on the tap, then reverse 1/4 turn, then another full turn and so on until you reach bottom. This is intended to prevent the tap from binding on its own shavings, which can cause the tap to snap off. You shouldn't be in a hurry to tap a hole, and you want to anticipate when the tap will bottom out because if you are too aggressive with the twisting torque as you reach bottom, you risk snapping the tap off in the hole. That makes for a really bad day.
I was able to turn it counter-clockwise, to get it to snap off. Also keep in mind I used an angle grinder, to make sure the insert was smaller or same length as the hole.
Incredible video! I couldn't have fixed my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee transmission pan stripped threads without this awesome video. Btw, I have the same size fasteners. The only reason why I decided to fix it myself is because of how chill you were in this video. If you were all stressed out, I would have taken it to a mechanic.
This tip saved my bacon doing a transmission service on my 1979 Dodge Power Wagon. Five stripped transmission bolt holes about made me go crazy. Now all bolts are snug and properly torqued thanks to Heli-Core and your video. Thanks a ton!
Just a quick tip for you. Use Keenserts, much better than heli coils, stronger, won't unscrew and easily replaced if they ever do wear out. Been a machinist and tool and die maker for 42 years and never had to replace one yet.
Just used EZ Lock inserts. After helucoils failed in my aluminum block and found that timeserts wouldn’t work, I was thrilled to find that the ez lock insert is a just a bit larger and it held securely. Saved me from a block replacement.
The other advantage of using the same bolt is that when the next guy takes the fasteners off, he doesn't have to be sure to put the right bolt back into the tapped hole, (and he can use the same size wrench as all the others).
I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
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+DE “AutoBravado” Nichols if I'm correct, that's the manual transmission out of the 79(?) Mustang donor which Eric pulled the drivetrain out of to presumably rebuild before putting it Oliver.
EricTheCarGuy Already had metric bolts back then? Wow. By the thread pitch I was thinking it was another project. Thought metric wasn't that much back then.
+DE “AutoBravado” Nichols Of course it did. T-5 wasn't a US only transmission. It was used in more cars overseas then it was in the states. Obviously they would go with the more universal system.
These things are great! Here's a tip. I was helping my son putting one of these in for the waterpump on a 1.5l mitsubishi 4cyl. There wasn't enough room for the insert tool so I cut the end off a stubby screwdriver and cut a notch in the shaft.. That fitted the little tab so I could screw the insert in.
I use a thread checker tool which works fantastic to find a specific bolt or nut size. I made a video on the tool if your interested I can post it with your permission Eric. Take care
I used a HeliCoil to fix a stripped hole on the convertible-top frame on my '68 Ford Galaxie 500 -- that was 12 years ago, and it's still holding today. Works great!
Eric, it helps to add threadlocker to the outside of these so they don't come out when you remove fasteners later. if you're worried about ever needing to replace the heli-coil later a little heat will aide in their removal or you can use the weaker blue locktite. I've used the stronger red locktite in them in the past with no issues, saves the fear of pulling out an insert, losing it etc. Thanks!
Ah, just read your responses to other threadlocker comments below, I believe this falls under the "Do what you want, but here's some other wisdom that can be helpful" category. Good job.
Great video, I need to do this on my aluminium cam cover. The one good thing is that the inserts are usually stainless steel so it actually makes it stronger, being a steel bolt into stainless threaded hole, rather the original steel bolt in an aluminium threaded hole, if you catch my drift. Would it be worth using thread lock on the inserts to ensure they stay in place??
I like to use thread locker on the outside threads of the insert. And put anti size on the bolt that is going into that insert. Doing that will prevent the insert from backing out.
+Frank Gonzalez Helicoil engineering says not to use thread locker (Loctite). The insert will not easily back out if installed properly and the tang is broken off. Using anti-seize is not a problem and is recommended on moderate to high temp applications, also when there are dissimilar metals such as steel bolts and aluminum housing. Non-hardening thread sealer can be used on though hole installations to prevent leaking fasteners.
I worked at a Cadillac dealership. The first generation Northstar engines had problems with the threads for the cylinder heads would strip out. The repair kit had insterts that went into the block. I would put thread locker on those inserts. I never had a comeback due to the head bolt repairs I did. If you do or don't use thread locker inserts is up to you, from my experience I do.
Only 5 years late getting in on this DIY masterpiece. I would think that the open end of the combo wrench might be a better "plan B" for size checking, but the 12 pt box end would be better than a 6 pt.. I requested for Christmas several years ago a set of metric and SAE male/female thread size checkers that went from really small up to about 3/4"/ 19mm and they were on separate small stranded cables so they would fit in a portable tool box nicely, unlike the wall mount thingies the big box/hardware stores have. Pretty sure they came from McMaster/Carr and made in the US. They were like $25 each, but there isn't a week goes by that I don't grab one string or the other to check thread size and or pitch. WORTH EVERY PENNY! You had a relatively easy drill/tap/ insert there on the workbench. Try drilling out a snapped of 6x1.0 flange bolt on the backside of the driver side cylinder head on a First Gen Tundra with the 4.7L V-8. I was lucky only 1 of the 18 bolts that held the valve covers on snapped off since by the looks of the conditin of the valve cover gaskets, they were the OEM from the factory and this motor has 203k on it. The torque spec for tightening is a whopping 54 inch/pounds. thanks again sir Eric. You have had GURU status with me for several years and keep up the You Tube vibe....you wear it very well!
Good video. Any particular reason you didn't lock the heli coil in with thread locker red? I thought that was standard practice when inserting new threads.
Paweł Muś I think it depends on the application. Bolts that require less than 10 ft/lb might not need loctite because they aren't under much stress. If you helicoil a sparkplug hole, you may need some loctite. I think if you wouldn't put loctite on a bolt before helicoil, you shouldnt put it after, right?
Tim Funk , A good man brings good things out of the good stored up in his heart, and an evil man brings evil things out of the evil stored up in his heart. For the mouth speaks what the heart is full of.
Glad to see you back on your T5. I followed the Videos from you and Paul. Completed my T5 rebuild recently, took the Mustang out yesterday for the first time, shifts great! What a difference 93 new parts makes ! Thanks again for the videos. Don
@@ericthecarguy I stripped the bolt hole to my thermostat housing I tried thread inserts but when I screw the bolt in it wouldn't stay in place. The size of the bolts was m8 1.25
Never thought about using wrenches or sockets to get a rough size of a bolt. I always went with a known fastener comparison, or a tap and die set with a pitch gauge. Although I’ve come across some crappy tap and die sets where especially the small sizes are manufactured so terribly lol
Is it necessary to chip off the end of the heilicoil after its in the hole? I need to do this to my turbo and i don't want that little end to fall into the turbo.
I'm putting a set of 062 Chevy vortec heads on my old Stock 82 350 Chevy engine....Naturally, one of the short Head Bolts strippen in the Block. I used new FelPro Head Bolts 7/16 x 4...all of the threads in the block pulled out of this 1 hole. Do I have to drill the hole in the Block out larger than what it is now...or is there a way I can use the same head bolts. Do Iuse another 7/16 x 4 insert or do I have to drill a bigger hole in the Block and in my Vortec heads ?... Thanks a bunch Eric...love your videos... Liked Subscribed years ago !
Dude I been following you for years and your videos are the best on RU-vid, very simple straight to the point and good quality man, thanks for sharing your knowledge Eric the amazing car guy and don’t get me wrong I don’t just say this to anybody keep up the good work.Omar from Atlanta Georgia
Why will my bolt not get tight. It feels snug, but in my application I have to torque the bolt down but as with the original threaded hole/bolt it wouldn't catch and thread down and/or get tight enough to torque. My application is on a thermostat housing assembly so unable to torque down, I have coolant leakage, this has been a very annoying and frustrating job
Damn this happened to one of my bolts that holds my valve cover and I don't really want to drill into my engine block with all those components. Is there any other way?
You may want to wear a respirator when clearing aluminum shavings/particles with compressed air. If inhaled, aluminum particles seem to find their way into the brain, which sometimes causes Alzheimer's disease.
I have a NP231 transfer case supposed have 6 studs but only has 5 studs to bolt to 46RH transmission in 95 jeep grand Cherokee 5.2 v8 ZJ hope the heli coil works out.
Do you think this would work on a D series Honda crankshaft? I'm looking for a quick fix that'll hold long enough for me to build my other motor I have.
It should work. People prefer the inserts over the original threads, oftentimes. I've never used them but am about to on all 10 head studs on my d16. Best of luck!
I tried to remove the radiator drain plug but it broke on my Mercedes w210. I drilled it and removed it. When I replaced it with a new drain plug, water was leaking from the litlle black hole next to the red drain plug, I assume I damaged the threads. What can I do to fix the problem?
Suppose to install other direction. Tab you smacked off is for needle nose pliers. When tight it snaps off. But also why you guys say use silicon on both sides of a gasket 😆 horrible back yard mechanics
Eric .. Crazy request here. Can someone donate a suzuki 400s to you and rebuild it. Rebuild it in a way people around the world can do the same at home. You can leave it bare then modify it as a super moto and see if Redbull is willing to put their logo on it i think thats a monster drink logo that logo can make the bike look slick. Can you buy a 3D printer and custom print some parts or use carb fiber molds.
Very informative w just one question. If you can tap the hole out w the 6mm x1 tap why use the insert? Wouldn’t the new taped hole now fit the 6mm x 1 bolt?
Drilling without a some sort of Mount calls for troubles I love your channel but someone watching this will screw up by slipping with the drill causing who knows what issues.
Also id like to see something crazy thats never been built before.. take 2022 to newer heights... we have a lot electric and self driving cars and robots that are only smiling or 4 legged or flying robot can you combine the two and make a robot that can get in the car sit, start the car and drive forward. I now dare you to build this... the car just needs to move one tire rotation and brake and tun off the engine.
thanks for sharing, what exactly does the black tool do that helps it get started? I saw some kits online that don't come with the black tool was wondering if they'd still work.
for the oil pan specifically where the drain thread is damaged. Can you just use a tap and die tool to repair the damaged thread at a much bigger size? without the insert?
Hope someone replies lol You drilled it, then tapped it and said you have threads. But then still had to use the helicoil to have fresh threads? Couldn't you use the bolt after the thread?
Great vid sorry if this is a noob question but does it matter the length of the bolt? It looks like it only threads the beginning of the hole does the screw do the rest? One of the bolt holes for my tensioner is stripped somehow and i'm trying to fix it.
Hi thanks for this upload, will this repair work if there is pressure from coolant ? The hole with stripped threads in question holds a temperature sensor .. so it needs to not leak.
What was the special install tool called? You just called it a "thing". Like when you said, "this thing is awesome for getting it started". That's always the part I struggle with and how you start is crucial to how it ends up
I'm not talking about the tap wrench bud. I have a really nice one. I'm talking about the hexagonal/cylindrical tool that you inserted the helicoil tool into and used to help hold/align it. I have every tool in the video except that black collar thing. I normally free hand the helicoils but would like to find one of those. Maybe try actually helping instead of being a smart ass 2 years later. I'll extend an olive branch by sharing a link to the best feeling tap wrench you will ever pick up. Its heavy in a good way, ball bearing smooth as silk drive mechanism, zero play/wobble, feels fantastic in your hand, and is reversible www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBDW3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_YAPWE0M54DAPTZ3C2H4Y
