Using dettol to safely and harmlessly strip old model kit paint without damaging the plastic or glue underneath. Works for cellulose / lacquer also now verified.
Cheers for this - I've stripped a lot with Dettol over the years but had no idea at all it worked on enamel paints. Having just scored a complete Warhammer 40k 2nd edition box where the models look like they've been dunked in enamel, this was a real help. Thanks again!
Like the chap below I have used Dettol for stripping Acrylic paint, but now mainly use meths for Acrylics. Did not even think of using Dettol for Enamels, well done my good Sir. As a side tip I use a coffee filter and a funnel to pour cleaners back in the bottle.
Thank you I have been looking for the best ways to strip paint and before this one the only videos I could find were American ones with American products, so thank you
Thanks for the Tip, tried cheaper similar product which didn't work (all I had in the cupboard) and picked up dettol the next day, completely stripped the paint off :) had messed up a 40K power sword, can retry from scratch now, thanks.
I use this method for my 1/76 scale model buses, EFE and Corgi Original Omnibus diecast and BT models plastic. I do just about everything the same only I use a largish Betterware type tub with a tight lid and put a number of models in at a time and when I've finished the lid goes back on for next time and I only strain the Dettol after a few uses and top up as needed.
Monsterist76 That depends entirely on the type of thinners. IPA would probably be ok but I wouldn't risk enamel or cellulose thinners, cellulose would definitely affdct the plastic if in contact long.
I actually wouldn't recommend using an ultrasonic cleaner unless it is used solely for paint stripping, as the paint is now stuck to the basket and won't come off. You're better off using an old container and being patient.
For model train shells I used Easy-Off (US) and it worked fantastic! I had one shell that had almost no surface detail the mfr paint was so thick! That one took 4 coatings and 20 cocktail stiks to get it down to plastic. When I spot erased with it, I had to hit the paint a couple times cuz the paint wouldn't stick the first spray. I waited 24 hrs, hit it again and was relieved that the paint stuck this time!!!
This is a good tip for plastic models. I think the Dettol is like Listerine. I look for the chemical compounds on the bottles. Thank you. I needed this tip.
Glad it helped. Hope you can find something similar. If you're in the US check your Walmart fruit l for an expat section. They often have stuff like Dettol and good stuff like marmite.
Thank you for this video. I did a stupid thing. I spayed enamel paint over a acrylic primer. I have an ugly mess. I found a source for the Dettol and will give it a shot. I was at the point of turning the model into a beat up version and then buying another kit. Won't have to now. Thanks.
Thank you so much for this advice. The Dettol really works. In the past I have had trouble stripping silver enamel paint, but the Dettol does it very well. I also experimented with clear parts. What I found with canopies for 1/72 aircraft is that the Dettol will remove the paint, but it is a good idea to leave the clear parts in the Dettol for the minimum time, because some that I left in overnight had a kind of white-ish crazing that needed to be polished out. So if you are using the Dettol for clear parts, just leave them for an hour or two, see if the paint will come off after that, if so remove at once and clean off the loosened paint, then there should be no problems. But in general well done for this advice about the Dettol - how on earth did you discover Dettol to be a paint stripper in the first place??
Thanks for the info about the clear parts, I must do a comparison video about that but useful info there. As for how, I overheard an old guy at a model meet years ago say it, with a grin that could have meant, 'i'm pulling your leg, or, there you go, bit of info you probably didn't know' It bounced around in my mind for a long time then when the paint on the Escort got messed up, by still who knows what? Me? the mix? the temp? Aliens? The thought popped in there and having a half full bottle under the sink I thought why not, worst case is it wrecks the plastic but it's a cheap kit if so and was absolutely amazed it worked so well, (I tried it on some well dried on enamel on a kit I was given part painted first), the paint practically fell off. I'd already tried Mr Muscle oven cleaner on a model previously (another widely rumoured paint remover), which didn't touch the enamel at all, maybe OK on Acrylics?
Interesting, many thanks for your reply. I never tried Mr Muscle, it sounds a bit harsh (but possibly OK?) Yes please do another video, in fact all your modelling videos are interesting stuff, please do more! - or are you like me, often not enough time in the day? Thanks again!
Lack of time, sometimes, as recently, lack of inclination, sometimes, other hobbies in the way, (my photography), sometimes life in general, I hope to be finishing off the Capri model soon though and starting on another car kit I ordered which has interested me for a while. (I like quirky designs). I honestly wouldn't recommend Mr Muscle, I believe it's caustic and the fumes are vicious, you have to coat the plastic and bag it whilst choking and then rinse and scrub, so much effort for so little end result in my experience. I appreciate the kind comments and am glad you like the content.
@@simonwallace-tarry355 That's a shame, I can't advise on other products but do know that the cheap store equivalents of Dettol don't work. Hopefully yours will. If you're not in the UK there's a product in the US called purple power I think that many modellers recommend.
I'm happy to see this. I can actually get Dettol in Canada, so this bodes well for some primer I need to strip off. I wonder if something like a coffee filter would be suitable for straining the Dettol/Water mix after use?
Well I will try DETOL once again, first time it didn't do a dammed thing on some old kits I bought! even tried it STRAIGHT not watered down at all! I have so many old kits to strip that after trying the DETOL unsuccessfully I just put 'em all back on the shelf and concentrated on the new ones!
Hopefully you'll have more luck with them. It does have to be the actual Dettol brand and the brown original, I would not recommend diluting now as it turns acrylic paint gooey if diluted with water and makes it difficult to clean off, use it neat and leave submerged to soak. I have successfully used it on Acrylic, Enamel and Lacquer paints.The only thing it likely won't remove is 2K paint, (which really has no place being used on models)
Thanks, sadly I can't say with certainty. Someone asked me that a good while ago and I intended to test it but never did get around to doing so. Another viewer said he's done so and it works but I haven't tried myself. I don't have much scrap clear styrene these days building mainly bike and car kits but I'll try to find something to try it on.
I've since found that Acrylic strips better with it neat, it goes gummy if diluted. For lacquer and Enamel though diluting means you get more for less.
Will this work on pretty much any painted surfaces. For example you have a car so would it work on a plane for instance. What happens to the glue you used.
Hello, nice video on. But may i know how long does it takes the paint spray to peel off from the body kit if i use Bactol disinfectant? This Bactol it same to Dettol but i cannot found it in any shop over here.
I'm not familiar with that brand and it may not have the active ingredient required that Dettol has. If it's not loosened the paint in a few hours it won't work the same.
Cheers, I've been looking for a reliable method to use on model locos and rolling stock. Will give this a try! I did read on tone of the Paints sites that it's probably best not to rinse with washing up liquid though as it can affect the adhesion of primers. Any thoughts?
Glad you found it helpful. The only thing I'd add more is don't dilute it if removing acrylic as it can turn the paint sludgy. Use it neat. Re the washing up liquid, provided you rinse and dry there's no problem. I always clean my plastic model kits with warm water and washing up liquid and rinse before building and priming.
Terry O'Neill Yes, it'll strip acrylic, enamel or cellulose/lacquer and take it back to bare plastic without harming the plastic. Theoretically the only paint it won't take off is 2k as that's chemically cured but I've never tried and that's only recently becoming common as a clear coat.
Hi mate, How do you think dettol will go with clear parts? I have a model truck cab to strip, and if I can't get the cab glass piece out, it'll have to go n the dettol bath. Great tip. Like the way the dettol works.
spidiq8 ok,well I can tell you this so far. I'm rebuilding an Ertl Volvo N10 kit. I put the bonnet assembly in the dettol bath yesterday. Now this bonnet had the headlights glued in as I couldn't remove them. I've now just checked. Most of the paint is off - a few stubborn spots still remain- and the lights are still clear.
That's great news, if it's not affected the headlights then odds are it won't affect the windscreen/windshield, (depending on which side of the pond you're on), it shouldn't, this much I know but you can never tell until you try. Thanks for that update there.
Just came across this video. Would the Dettol make clear plastic - the type used in windshields etc. - go cloudy. I ask this as I have a locomotive I want to respray, and the problem is there is a clear strip about 2 - 3 mm thick along the top of the shell which acts as a light source for the headlights & rear lights bulbs. It sits a few mm below the bottom of the top - does that make sense - of the shell. Also there are exhaust fans on the top of the shell which you can see through into the loco, and this strip is also visible, albeit being clear, it is not reasonably noticed. I don't want to soak it in Dettol if it is going to make the strip go cloudy, thus reducing the light effect. I await your thoughts on this.
If that strip is clear styrene like in plastic model kits then no. It won't affect it. I have however tried it on other plastics so if at all possible I'd recommend dipping or painting some Dettol on a part which won't be seen or noticed to test.
@@spidiq8 Hi there, I'm pleased to say it works a treat. All previous paint jobs are gone. No problems with the lights transmission. Only one really minor, minor problem with area round that strip was/is that certain areas round where the light bulb actually sits had been painted with silver, probably to act as a better reflection for the light. that area is quite sticky, but I'm not worried about it as I won't be spraying inside the shell.
I have an old vinyl model kit which I would like to remove the paint. (The paint has been on there for at least 20 years!) Would 'Dettol' work on a vinyl kit? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
It will work yes and shouldn't affect the vinyl. If possible try soaking just a small area in dettol to make sure it has no adverse effect on the vinyl though.
@@spidiq8 Thank You for being so quick to answer. OK, I have some things to do outside the home tomorrow...I'll go purchase some 'Dettol.' Again, Thank You for the information.
Any idea if this would remove an acrylic varnish? I put acrylic varnish over a model part and it came out terrible. I dont mind painting the part again but will this remove the varnish?
Lennika Proost I guess it depends on the glue, I've not yet stripped a pre glued part but styrene glues tend to melt the parts together by chemical reaction so it should stay stuck. The other thing I'm unsure of is if it would affect clear styrene, I will have to paint a spate canopy and throw it in some Dettol to see what happens.
spidiq8 my turret is glued with revell contacta proffesial mini its a 1/72 scale i was just wondering if it would keep together? Oh and when i take off all the paint en than repaint it will the paint than still stick or.... Thanks for helping me btw i kindy new to this i did made 4 other model tanks but i never stripped a model.
Lennika Proost Once you've stripped the old paint and washed and rinsed the plastic new paint will stick to it as normal. Hopefully your glue will hold but if not you can re glue it
spidiq8 the glue holded only my first layer of paint did not came of that easy But that's okay now i will dry it for a day and respray thanks for the help.
Ashish Singh Depends how it was finished, if it was clearcoated in 2k clear it shouldn't as far as I currently know because 2k is chemically hardened. I honestly couldn't say for certain though, sorry about that.
Thanks, as for availability I don't know for certain but it's such along standing product and common name I'd be surprised if not. perhaps check amazon.com and see if it's on there, if so you should be able to get it from Walmart type places?
Nice job. I'm amazed at how great that product works. Does anyone know if we can get it here in the States? Again great video I will subscribe and follow your work. Thanks
Thank you. I believe it's available in some wal marts in the 'ex pat' section with other UK goods but odds are it'll be more costly like your US 'Candy's' are in the specialist stores in the UK. I do know several US model makers who use Purple power which is a degreaser I think? and I'm sure there's another one but couldn't say what.
It would be suitable for soaking a clogged airbrush with dried paint in after stripping and removing the seals but cleaning it with cellulose thinner or the appropriate thinner after use is more effective. Have a look at my airbrush cleaning video here. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tcSBK0l5Lbw.html
Better still, test it on a piece of the clear plastic sprue. It doesn't matter that the sprue isn't painted; you're testing for its effect on the plastic, not the paint.
It will do that, however I'd now recommend you don't dilute as I found it can make some acrylics really gummy and messy to strip. Better to just use it neat. You can use a fine sieve occasionally to filter old paint fragments.
Yes I did it for the first time with containers it took the first layer of paint but left the decals and grubby and sticky even after avoid was with soap and water P Q Eire
Well in order to remove the orange peel and unwanted areas of failure in a paint job you need to do a number of things,you have to have a number of wet or dry sand paper I use wet and slowly sand down the paint job using about 5 different sand paper after that I use a soft compound for automotive paint work,I use micro fiber wax towels and slowly rub the compound around the entire paint job after that I wax the car and the paint job looks smooth and shiny and very glossy one can also use a clear coat finish after sanding process like 2k clear coat Ny duplicolor …do it the way it’s done in an auto shop,you can’t just use a one piece of sand paper and think your paint finish will look amazing,paint isn’t cheap so remember paint in smooth light coats slowly don’t go so heavy,it looks like this man painted the car to fast and didn’t allow for light coats..
@@HitLuca94 That's interesting, is it the exact same product though? I believe the reason this works on enamels and cellulose/lacquer paints is because of the cloroxylenol in addition to the alcohol and there are similar 'own brand' disinfectants in the UK but brown Dettol is the only one which works.
this wont even tickle synthetic lacquer (tamiya etc sprays).. it has IPA which is what probably does most of the work. there is NOTHING else in this that will touch any paint whatsoever!
You're either misinformed or making assumptions. The active ingredient that does most of the work is cloroxylenol, yes dettol contains IPA also but that's not the primary ingredient. It WILL work on cellulose/lacquer based paint. Try it yourself, you may be surprised.
Dettol as it will strip acrylic, enamel or lacquer paint. That said IPA or methylated spirit, (denatured alcohol) will remove acrylic and the residual loose paint seems less messy after so if you're only using acrylic then methylated spirit is much cheaper.
@@spidiq8 i only use acrylic and enamel paint for detailing small part into my gunplas. For removing acrylic paint, i use eucalyptus oil to rub that part, then use eraser to clean that paint. I just buy 2 spray can for motorcycle, clear doff and clear gloss for top coating my gunplas and i wondering if using IPA can remove spray can paint without damaging plastic. Did you ever use dettol for remove spray can before ? Pardon my english
@@zaal.79 No apologies for your English needed, it's very clear. Spray cans most likely will be lacquer based so alcohol most likely won't shift it, Dettol definitely will but it must be genuine brown Dettol, own brand store disinfectant doesn't have the active ingredient needed, (I forget the name of it). You can try spraying a test piece and try IPA once it's cured, depending on the paint or formulation it might work. If you're on Facebook I recommend you look for and join Modelmaker's boomhut. Loads of great advice and a good mix of genres including warhammer and gunpla builders, best most friendly model builders group I've ever found.
@@spidiq8 i just got accepted to join Modelmaker's boomhut few minutes ago. I'll try use IPA for removing spray can. And if it going wrong, i'll try using dettol. Many thanks for your advice, good luck for you.
