Thank you so much for the amazing video. Watched it so many times as I built my short block. Thank you for all 🙏😊 I greatly appreciate you. Your content is great.
😭😭😭😭 I’m still trying to go turbo cause all I have is a 2.5 rs engine and u trying to hit 800 😂😂😂 thats neat thought hope u hit them or even more than u could expect
You covered it all but many people would rather pay to have it all done for themselves. Pay the money people and limit the stress of doing yourself. 🙌🏽#Smeedia!!
i can really see this both ways. i for sure would want to pay someone to make sure its done correctly. to have a reputable shop perform the build would instill confidence in the engine. however, building the thing myself would instill confidence in me. would love to be able to do both. this video is giving me the extra push to do it myself. truly great content!
I purchased a IAG tuff short block and had a shop I thought was a IAG certified shop do my build. My engine lasted 700 miles and suffered catastrophic failure from normal break in driving. I contacted IAG. They had me ship the engine to them. They completely evaluated the engine and determined it was due to the shop reusing my old heads and not cleaning them properly which had shavings inside. IAG said I should have never used a shop that wasn’t certified to work on their engines. It was heartbreaking. They gave me 50% off on the next short block which was very generous. I spent $12,500 on the first build and the shop didn’t refund me any money. So I spent $14,000 on the 2nd build. It was a huge kick in the stomach but I love my car and I sucked it up and pushed forward. Tanner is very confident, skilled, passionate, persistent, motivated and inspiring. He’s helped many people gain the confidence and know how to do many things that are actually complicated steps but when done strategically they can come out just as good or better than a shop.
I'm an old steam turbine mechanic on a nuke ship where accuracy is critical - you are pretty awesome at attention to detail fitting bearings. I'm a bit jealous as I never had a clean area nor much room to do it - just a deck plate to lay everything out on. LOLOL!! Great, great video.
I used to be an inspector for aerospace components, so accuracy with precesion measuring tools is a must 🙌 sometimes people are cool with plastic gauge but I could never trust it 😅 The deck works though! 💪
@@Smeedia Right now its on stock turbo maybe later i would upgrade but nothing too big was planing on getting the next gen flexfuel kit. Is there any negatives on them being too lose?
The amount of effort and time you've put into this is absolutely legendary of you, no surprise your content continues to be amazing and educational. I doubt I'd be personally doing this myself but it's still great to know more of how it works and what SHOULD be done even if it's just to ask people how/what they did to a car you might buy, not to mention to query sketchy mechanics.
I've never seen anyone check the clearances between the pistons, wrist pins, and small ends. Why isn't that as critical as the big ends and the main journals?
For some reason. Having my blown up EJ IN the car helps my mental more than pulling it out, and having it sit in 200 pieces that I’ll never put back together. But, I keep seeing this guy build them and it’s lulling me into a false sense of capability. I guess worst case scenario I still have an STI that doesn’t work
A con rod holding tool would have been nice, potentially stopping any twist induced to the rod during torquing in vice... As an automotive tech I was very interested in the assembly sequence for this engine ... FAR different to old VW air cooled units with the piston installation sequence .. Enjoying all your videos - CHEERS 👍🏻
Very good job! I know you like outfront they do good work, just one thing you should know, they only do a mainline hone not bore, which follows the existing line of the mains, until the clean them up for roundness & target size. A mainline bore would be reestablish og the datum of mainline & boring them to target size, typically you would cut .005” of each case halve then remove .010” while boring mainline, then bore rear main seal back to size. Will be a straight/round/true mainline & you can run tighter main bearing clearence .0015” +/-.0001” for 600+whp for sub 500whp can run as tight as .001” & have amazing oil pressure & lower oil temps ect for road racing. I ran a 10mm oil pump on single AVCS seeing 70psi hot oil pressure at 8k rpm & had great oil temps, at willow springs. I live in desert. For daily/drag stuff line hone is fine. Only couple shops do line boring on these, person who did my previous motors doesn’t do public work anymore. I really want to get a 4axis mill & sunnen engine hone, along with a sunnen 1804/1660 hone for rods, ect at home just so I can machine blocks, do fluid heater & also use block heaters to machine everything at operating temp! That’s where it will become race team level machining
How dare you break the golden rule of never sharing your clearances with the public 😂 Thats holy grail information haha. But im glad, to hear what other builders are doing in comparison to my own 👊
Great video, Tanner. Must habe been a bitch to film and edit. Brings back memories of another EJ build a while back. Wish my wrx had those connecting rods
The Presicion is key definitely. And in my opinion the way you do things is immaculate. I’ve learn so much about subies just by watching your vids man. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. 🔥💯🔥🙏🙏
Great video. I’m planning on rebuilding a naturally aspirated all original 2.5 (2006) forester short block. Would I still need to carry out crank and case measurements if I was just replacing standard main and big end bearings (non-turbo/SOHC)? Motor has only done 210,000 Kms (120,000miles). Basically I have weeping (oil) original head gaskets and thought while I have the motor out, might as well do bearings and rings. Thoughts?
Great Video man. What is your opinion on OEM rebuilds? My 15 STi engine is stock but old and i am currently seeing a good deal from the dealer to rebuild the shortblock and then re-machine the heads. for the short block I was told everything will be brand new and all OEM.
Should I be worried upgrading my 03 251 SOHC head gaskets to factory turbo 04-06 MLS? It looks like they are .15mm thinner and will raise my compression ratio about 0.3:1.
Squeeze out…. What about the “inner” squeeze out? Could that possibly cause a problem? I’ve watched this video 4 times now and that’s what always stands out to me. Thanks in advance (I know this is an older video, but considering you do more “newer” cars, I’m using this one as a reference for a rebuild I’m planning) **2004 ej25 H4 n/a there are not many rebuild videos out there for an older ej. Thanks again!
@@Smeediathat exactly what I wanted to hear. I have a quart of the redline and didn’t wanna waste it but I trust your product knowledge immensely and was willing to make the switch if you though it was a better product.
I don't really understand the clearance thing, why measure everything just to take it apart? Shouldn't the upgraded or OE parts fit right in and run? Do the clearances have a functional purpose? And what if it's off would you have to order a new set?
Watching Harry Potter with the fam, but ill be back tonight to watch the video! P.s. love how you are in the comments for a bit after the video drops means a lot!
Why such tight ring gaps? Im building a shortblock and the manley pistons instructions calls for bore x 0.006 for mid boost so I was shooting for 0.023 but now I think thats too big?
Hey tanner, quick question, I’m tempted to build my own motor because of cost my shop is charging me 13k maybe more for a block rated for 550, you think it’s worth getting a iag block for about 4k and get the other parts I need to do by myself to save on cost
A question, but if you measure everything without putting lubricating oil, why do you measure the bands by putting the oil in the cylinder barrel first? The gaps you have to respect are measured with the lubricant or dry ??
One critique I have is not de-burring the rings after you file them, or at least you didn’t show it. Running a file on your freshly cut edges is cheap insurance.
Smeedia please help me. I went to seal together my forged ej205 today and after I put the two case halves together and put 2 of the case bolts in and they came back with rtv on them. So I stressed and tore the motor back apart and am re-doing it. If I try second time and the same happens is this an issue? Is this something you see when you do your motors?
I am currently rebuilding my ej25 after a piston grenaded, this will aide me in the process of the rebuild. I subbed on the simple fact that I understood everything you said.
Great content as always Tanner. As for rod bolts experience has always made me lean towards bolt stretch rather than bolt torque alone. I have found on numerous occasions that when the bolts don't reach their proper yield point that they can back out at times and that's always a big hazard. Seeing as doing bolt stretch is not so much of a hassle, I see it as a very good precautionary measure.
THANK you. I have been looking for just this video. Step by step, all the information, no fluff, no details withheld, no ads, all in a single video, start to finish. Brilliant, and needed.
let’s go definitely will use this in the future for my wrx hatch as of right now im rebuilding my 05 sti and im putting an ra short block in and i was wondering what gasket kit should i use and what will fit will 05 head gaskets fit the type ra short block or would i need to get 2018+ gaskets
Tbh I'd use the same gap as I used in this video, it's a fairly standard gap I use on most street cars. If we're going to run more than 30PSI I'll start opening up the gap a bit more
It's on there. Just looked like it wasn't on camera 😅🙏 Good catch on that because that one I had to go back and do before flipping the engine back down lol 😆
Thank you very much for all of your hard work it’s really really much appreciated, we know how hard it is to put together this videos and share it with us!…. As I type this is up two days ago I did a compression test on my 04 sti and cylinder 4 has 10psi 😢so now I have to do a leak down test to see if it’s bottom end or heads I might be using your videos to build my engine, I have to find a local shop that would machine the short block I just don’t know if I should do this myself or have them do the pistons, rods, crank, piston, bearing, install etc. as I have never got to that part yet. You make it seem kinda easy 😅 I am in Canada by the way so not much options here. My results for compression test are : 1. 121 2. 120 3. 90 Also low !! ? 4. 10 All dry tested might do a wet test. What are your thoughts ? For sure I need a new build engine, the car has 190k miles is US 2.5 L and did timing belt kit in April 2022. Any suggestions will be appreciated. From you or community. Thank you and God bless!
Update : I did a leak down test yesterday with warm engine and cylinder 1 and 2 air scapes from oil fill up, piston rings bad, when I tested cylinder 4 low compression cylinder air scapes from cylinder 2? So bad head gasket ? And when I tested cylinder 3 air seem to scape from cylinder 4 ?? I am baffled!! Lol anyhow I know I have to rebuild my engine, As I am still getting the engine light on misfire on cylinder number 4 at least now I know why.
@@Smeedia main hang up is tolerances, how do you know what tolerances and piston ring gaps should be? Do you go off of oem specs or if you want more hp is it different?
Had my ej25 long block rebuild from a machine shop. Provided new JE 99.75 pistons but I’m 98% sure they did not set ring gap. Should I tear it down and set ring gap or should I be fine ?
Quick question, im currently rebuilding a jdm ej205,( single avcs,wrx motor) and have to get my block machined due to my sleeves having some scratches, do i have to just resleeve my block or do i have to use different pistons, rings, etc. (Also do usdm oem subaru piston rings work on a jdm motor)
Typically, you'd measure the depth of the scoring and determine if you can bore it larger. For me if it can't be bored any larger I scrap the cases and get a diffrent set.
Do you recommend ATF or a thin oil coating on the bearing to rod/block when installing and checking clearances? I know some engine builders like a thin film of lubrication for that metal-metal contact. Specifically referring to Real Street. I imagine it's a very small detail that's probably engine builder specific.
