Thank you for posting this! I just did the Front Control arm rear bushing on my XV Crosstrek. Very similar setup, and it worked a charm. Car is WAY more stable and smoother.
You're a Subaru Chrisfix! I love how specific your incredibly useful videos are. The one thing missing is consistent listing of all models and years for which a video is applicable.
A long process, but need to do a check of mine, awesome and direct video, straight forward and easy to follow even having parts numbers thanks for the probably one of the best tutorials on RU-vid
Repair covers 2005-2009 Legacy and Outbacks. This procedure is quite similar for 2010+ as well. Correction from the video, the control arm bolt to the cross member shouldn't be fully torqued until the vehicle is on the ground with full weight on the suspension. Also, I meant to head off the video with what to look for as a sign of failure. You may hear squeaking from the front end. You may hear clunking. The easiest way to tell if the bushings are bad is just a visual inspection. Look for cracks and tears in the rubber as shown in the video.
there is an alignment on rear bushing, raise "numb" faces up ,but also align with numb on the steel arm. I checked PRODEMAND, I am going to repalce them today .your video is very useful to me .
Nice video. However, I wish more emphasis should have been given to the correct orientation/alignment of the rear bushing. Not only should the rubber knobs point upwards but they should also form a straight line (critical) with the fwd bushing. Otherwise the designed ‘twisting’ (torsion) load on the rubber would be ‘shear’ load instead...which will surely reduce the life of the new bushing. Thanks.
Another consideration is to change the other side out. If one side is going the other is most likely not far behind. I got new Moog Control Arms with all of the bushings and front ball joint for 80 buck a piece so didn't have to worry about any of the alignment issue as that was all taken care of by the folks at Moog. Recommended to change out the Sway bar bushings while you are in there. Another reason to buy the entire arm, no hydraulic press or bushing press kit required
I bought that same Snap-On impact to do these and all 4 struts on my little brother's 2006 Outback, and HOLY CRAP it makes these jobs easier. Should have bought one years ago.
Just subscribed! Glad I found you. I drive a 2002 Impreza Outback Sport non turbo. Bought used in 2014. Already put more money into keeping it going than what I paid. (3,500). But hey better than a 5 year mortgage at hundreds every month. It’s Paid for. Never left me stranded. And love the AWD.
getting borderline death wobble at 65 to 70 mph on my wrx 2011. rear bushing is shot from what see from turning the wheel and slight movment from the control arm when turning the steering wheel back and forth. going with this change. thanks for sharing this.
You should raise the control arm with a jack before tightening them. If will preload them to ride height not when the car is raised. It will give your bushings longer life.
Corrected in pinned comment. Final torque of the front 17mm bolt & nut is to be performed with full vehicle weight on the suspension. All other fasteners are fine to torque unloaded, per the factory service manual.
@@infotechsailor I buy the best tools I can, take care of them and they serve me well for a lifetime. I hate using cheap shit. I have probably close to $80,000 in Snap-On tools and if something breaks, the truck comes to me once a week and I get a new one. I don't think Snap-On is always the best tool, though.
I think I just had a coronary. Just bought a 2006 Subaru Legacy GT. Drove it 50 miles and got a CEL. 2 codes. P0171 and IDK the other one. Brought it to a mechanic. Said something about o2 sensor. And needed the front lower control arm bushing rear bushing replaced. They spent 5 hours on the car today addressing the CEL's. Now in order to finish car needs to put in the sensor and bushing and said it would be $1500!!!!!! That cannot be right.
I can't wait until I get the chance to change the control arm bushings and ball joints on my 2010 Legacy 3.6 R limited I looked up the bushings for the 05-up legacy bushings are the same as 2010-2014. If so I want to order polyurethane bushings and install them. Thank you for your time and for the video it will help me.
Whole new control arm with bushings installed from Moog or any other reputable brand is around $60-$80. The bushings alone from dealer would have cost me $70 so I just bought a whole new arm and installed. Much easier and same price.
Agreed that swapping out the whole assembly is a fast, and often cost effective way to refreshing all the control arm components at once. But that is not what this video is about. This video is about changing out the bushings. This video presents an approach, without compromise, of changing out the bushings. The video does exactly what the title says.
Moog usually does a solid job. This said, I had the rear bushings fail on both sides on the original Subaru control arm assemblies, after only 40,000 miles on a 2013 Outback. And the current Subaru control arm assembly for our cars has a BIGGER rear bushing than the original. The factory arms were $99 each from McKenna Subaru here in Southern California. The new rear bushing on the $99 control arm assembly is a factory up-grade on the previous part. The front bushing and the ball joint are typically good for 80,000 or better, depending on where you drive. But that rear bushing from 2013 is weak, and has been superseded by a stronger part. This might be a consideration in shopping for Moog or Subaru. The 'street' price for factory is about $20 higher per side than after market. Does the Moog have a bigger than original-stock bushing in back? I don't know. They are often good at spotting this kind of thing. I do know that the current factory part has a strengthened rear bushing.
Great job! Clear and to the point. Thank you! I still like the videos where you talk about what you’re doing rather than doing it all in silence and adding “subtitles” of each step. I’m sure the written step by step is helpful for those following along step by step in their driveway, and the torque specs in writing are clear. So, I can see the usefulness of that. It’s just weird (sort of eerie) to me hearing you work on the car but not speak. Just my opinion. (Maybe that’s another reason I often talk to myself while I’m working....) 😆
I replaced mine front and rear following the guidance of your video!! Legacy 2005...now how to stop my cruise control light from flashing? Cant seem to find info about that issue...
I've subscribed a while now and have been using your tutorials to help save myself a few dollars. Thank you for what you do! I've two quick questions: One, where do you find service manuals online? My local dealer never has these. I want to ensure I'm torquing correctly. Two, how do I know when the stabiliser end links are bad? What do I look / feel for?
jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ The older model's joints will be visibly cracked, worn, loose. The nearly links, that use spherical joints, will usually have torn boots, looseness in the joint, when pulling with a prybar lightly, and you'll be hearing some knocking/thudding from the front suspension.
I replaced the lower control arm on my 2010 Legacy sedan yesterday. I tightened the pinch bolt on the ball joint to specs while the car was still on jack stands with the wheel removed. I then did the same thing with the rear bushing bolt. I was looking at the FSM which asked for the rear and front bushing bolts to be tightened after the suspension was loaded. Since I could not get under the car to tighten the front bushing when the wheel was on the ground, I tried using ramps, but the space was still too cramped. I took the wheel off, put the car on jack stands and used another floor jack under the control arm under the ball joint to barely lift the front-end of the car off the pinch weld on which it was resting. I did not lift the car all the way off the jack stand on the pinch weld. I then tightened the front bushing bolt. I am wondering if I should have tightened the rear bushing bolt at the same time instead of doing it while the suspension was not on load and also wondering if I should have lifted the car off the pinch weld jack stand completely before tightening the front bushing bolt.
Awesome video! Going to do mine soon, maybe next week. Likely all control arm bushes together with the wheel hub assembly. After a moderate curb bump my wheel makes humming noise, and bushing is completely torn off. Very helpful watch. Just wish you included part numbers in the description for easier copy/paste :) In any case, Mucho Appreciado! One more thing, what did you use as a jacking up point?
What are the driver/ socket sizes to push out the front control arm bushings on a 2005 Outback. Also, what size cups do I need to catch the bushings. I also need to replace my trailing arms . Would you please forward those sizes . Thanking you in advance.
The Spec B has aluminum LCAs is the process any different? I ask as I can tell you the bilsteins on the Spec B are impossible to replace using a standard spring compressor and can even be trouble with a proper spring compressor.
I’m trying to chase down a clunking gremlin on my 09FXT all of my suspension parts look great but I did notice that these bushings didn’t look so great. What would be the symptoms? I appreciate the help
Getting the control arm off of the ball joint stud was tough and I used a ball joint separator. Can I use the same ball joint if using a ball joint separator on the ball joint stud or does it weaken it?
My 2012 outback needs new FL contol arm bushings, but the shop is suggesting that I replace the entire control arm. Are they just trying to take me for money, or would it be worth it just to swap it all out?
Let me say completed assembly for a pair run $144.95. to me...thats the way to go. Ball joint, front bushing and rear "puck" already installed on the arm....bingo! Both front sides! My 07 outback.
what made you do oem rubber and no poly. my 2012 impreza needs new bushing and its autocross, but also my daily. I don't know if I should do oem, delrin, or poly bushing.
Yes, it’s basically the same cups that you use with the press but a long bolt with a ball bearing that you tighten the heck out of, I don’t know about Subarus but Honda you can only replace those compliance bushings once and we put a big yellow dot on the control arm to let the next tech knows , it has has been changed before and you have to replace the control arm, After market control arms are not much more than the bushings so if you don’t have a press and tools I would just change the whole control arm.
Thanks for all the great videos bro! I have 2006 subaru legacy 2.5gt spec b. I removed the control arms had new bushings pressed in and am having a hard time find the torque specs. Any help would be greatly appreciate! Thanks again for your work on the videos they've helped me immensely
Great video, the question I notice you did not put a load on the new lower control arm before you torque the bolts? Other video stayed put a load on the control arm (ride high) before final torque.
I got the rear and front struts replaced on my 02 Subaru Outback Wagon VDC, but there are still squeaking sounds which were still there before I replaced the struts. Do you know if it is the bushings on the control arms and stablizer bar?
I have had a Subaru forester 1997 (automatic) from new, that has been great for all the years with very little to do other than annual services. However, recently I have had a lot of vibration & shuddering on the wheels when making tight turns (left or right). It is difficult to identify which wheels the noise or shudder comes from and I don't feel much through the steering wheel. I have had all difs replace that has reduced the frequency but not always. We hope it isn't the automatic gear box but has anyone got any ideas what to do next.
Great video, although I was in pain thinking of you lying/kneeling on the gravel! Is there a way to remove/install the bushings if you don't have a press?
Honestly can't remember now. I bought them last July after I bought the car. Just not getting around to replacing them. I bought them from subaruparts.com.
Great Video, All WORK and No BS....I am Told that the shimmy in my Legacy front end when braking , which is DEFINITELY NOT Brake Related, is Most likely caused by warn lower Bushings, can you confirm this ?
Usually a shake under braking is warped rotors. If you know for a fact the rotors aren't warped, then control arm bushings are a likely cause. Any worn components in the front suspension could cause issue. Be sure to check for play in the wheel bearings, tie rods, and ball joints as well.
Hey mr subaru. Ive used your videos for many repairs on my own vehicle and have worked flawlessly. Im just wondering if i replace my control arm amd the bushings any idea if the bushings are already pressed into the new control arm as i dont have a press. Im just looking to basically uninstall reinstall with out using a press. If not ill have to get a local shop to press it in which isnt a big deal. Thanks in advance.
Superb work. My main Subaru dealer ( UK ) is replacing all 4 front bushings on my 2014 Forester XT. They advise 1.8 hours per side. Sound about right ?
Hello and good video, I've got an 03 legacy with an annoying clunk in the front right side that present itself over bumps or sometimes when straightening the wheel in motion. I've replaced the tie rod end, the ball joint, the control arm and the inner tie rod is good as well. Any thoughts of what I'm missing? Thank you!
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks for the quick response. It makes the clunk on fairly small bumps, it's pretty noticeable...it could be, how about mounting bushings?
Hello Mr. Subaru I really like all of your videos and I learned a lot yesterday I change my default thank you so much I saved a lot of money I want to ask you about something my car makes noises and it shakes when I turn the steering wheel all the way when you turn slowly and it shakes too on ..the highway the car move smoothly even when I go over 100 mph I know it’s not the wheel bearing what that couldn’t be
What size sockets did you use to press out the bushings? Currently doing mine with a press I just bought, but soon realised I don't have the correct sizes
Can control arm bushings in that state cause steering wheel shake at high speeds? I replaced the 2 front rotors and pads the other day due to shake at high speed and during braking, while changing them out I noticed that the control arm bushings where dried out similar to this one. Shake during braking is gone but high speed remains. Thank you.
Great vid. Got a quote for 440 for right control arm bushing. Going to tackle it on my own. The only problem i see is that i dont have the equipment to press it out. Any ideas? Thanks a bunch.
You can burn the rubber out then cut the metal inner band with a hacksaw for removal, don't recommend. You can drill the rubber and then cut. There are several ways to remove them without a press. Reinstalling without a press is more tricky. I've seen people drive them in with a hammer, but don't really recommend that either. Best bet would be to remove the old bushings and take the new bushings amd control arms to a shop and ask them the charge to press them in for you.
Oreilly or other autoparts stores will lend tools for free. (You pay for them up front but if you bring them back they give you your money back). Ask for the tool loan program. Usually they have this with specialty tools like bearing presses.
3:00 if that sucker doesn't come off as easily as that, a brass-faced snap in a pneumatic rivet gun will have it off in 5 seconds flat. Same goes for tie rod end.
