I am going to tinker with contractor trash bags, in an attempt to simulate your method on ice. If the bag moves, the wheels are not parallel. My garage floor is not smooth enough to use your second method. Thanks, Joe
If you can find a smooth area of blacktop with a gentle slope, you can compare coasting a distance with a stopwatch. Either side of parallel alignment will take longer to travel the same distance. Make sure it's calm wind.
At 10:14 there is a shot of the shock. The body is mounted on a clamp that wraps around the left frame arm. The rod of the shock is attached to the left wheel brake/ tie rod assembly. 1/8" angle aluminum. Is there a way to send you pictures?
Is the steering dampener on this one the same as the other, just with springs? Or is it a different dampener altogether? If so, would you share the source? Very interested in that setup. Love the videos, and special nod to Tilly!
I am not to smart but why not mark on your garage floor where the 3 tires should be and that way you can check the wheel alignment after every ride but if you're having to adjust the alignment more than once a year, than you have something else going on unless you're doing bunny jumps and flying over mounds and getting too much air time.
Winter miles on the lakes and trails account for much more suspension action. My average speed in the winter is around 5mph. Some of the trails around here have huge cracks that bottom it out at 15mph. Anything that moves is wearing. The balls have a little wear, but not too bad.
@@rowtator6543 i was thinking if one took measurements and setup 3 boxes on the floor and took and centered them correctly with the zero as center one could easily check the alignment and make adjustments very quickly. I learned to just taking a long string that I could align front ends to when put on a machine the alignment was very close.
