Supercharged 50cc needs Arc Welder for ignition! 

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You should put “Well that seems dangerous, lets try it” on a shirt 😂

I’ve been more invested in the precise engineering of this little 2 stroke than any wacky car build youtubers have come up with. The pursuit of perfection over shock value is refreshing

Your definitely on the right path. Be aware though that running that CDI with four parallel outputs is essentially quadrupling the capacitance it dumps into the primary of the coil. So basically you spark time length is quadrupled. At high revs this will be like a continuous spark. I know it sounds counter intuitive but try just two channels and then three etc. Also and this is more important than you would think. Lead length from the CDI to the coil and the return ground both have inductance. Try making the wiring from the CDI to the coil as short as possible and if you can twisting the heavy current carrying ground and primary wires to reduce ground loop size. This will reduce the inductance a bit more if you can't get them physically really close. Loving the videos👊👊

It’s evident that you have this project on your mind almost always, sitting with problems and coming up with theories about why and how to solve them. Super interesting to follow your journey! Thank you 🙏

About the heat theory: It’s a totally different engine size but I like to run old COX Rc-nitro engines. These are really small, like 0.8cc and rev up to 25‘000 rpm. They need an insane amount of oil, like 20-25%. One thing i discovered while running them in the winter is that the cylinder and the head need to be really hot. Otherwise, they will not rev up properly. The same goes for bigger RC-plane nitro engines. Some guys cover the cooling fins for winter flying so that the engines get up to temperature.

😂 “Taking a carb off an engine channel” I love it! Lol

Bro the flames coming out of the expansion chamber when you let off looks sick af like a blow torch with white flames 🔥

You can see it keeps getting better and better each video, 32hp and still pushing for more. From my experience with 4cyl boosted engines, Spark plug gap becomes more critical in higher boost levels. Not sure you are having that issue yet, but the rush of charge air can blow out the spark if your gap is too large. I was sure the stinger was causing a restriction issue and was surprised making the diameter larger made it worse. Keep up the great work. Love this video series

This was a very exciting episode! Also lets point out how impressive it is that the engine has happily held together just fine for hours of beating on it on the Dyno while testing. If you aren't able to get enough heat into the combustion chamber, a very high pressure fuel injector (like in Direct Injected cars) probably would vaporize the fuel and oil mix enough. I know you have talked about EFI many times however you are starting to push the boundaries of the properties of fuel in a carburetor.

Ill have you know, this is my favorite "take the carb off channel" and my favorite "drill holes in stuff channel" and my favorite "manufacture parts that may or may not work channel" and ... Well you get the idea.

Have you thought about using 2 coils in parallel? Your coil might not be able to charge fully (dwell time) at 15k rpm. You could split the output of the ignition unit to 2 coils firing 360 degrees appart so the coils have twice the time to fully charge if you catch my drift!

I used to help a vintage grass bike racer build his bikes & engines (Rudge Ulster 500cc), which ran on methanol. The cylinders had to have all but the top 3 fins removed, otherwise the engines would not run very well. This is because methanol enters the cylinder as a liquid spray and sucks all the heat away. The main jets, on Rudge 500cc grass bike engines, are massive. The engines were Rudge 500cc with Rudge patented Radial Four Valve phosphor bronze cylinder heads running methanol through AMAL & Jikov methanol carbs.

My ordinary condition when following UT thingi-danglers is to see how they got thingies fixed. Your channel drives me the opposite way. I´m thrilled to follow all the obstacles and miscalculations, thinkings and failing experimental settings. Your obsession to grow your experience by failing and overcome to the next step is absolute stunning for me. Your mental calm to counterattattck each every lack of knowledge while constantly growing knowledge against all odds is impressive. By the way: thx for the music of choice. Fits perfect. Thx a lot for your approach fixing this thingie not straight forward by some rulebook.

In our nitro harley we can't burn as much fuel at higher rpm due to loss of load. I know with your 2 stroke we are talking apples and oranges, but that should not change that charateristic of fuel. Load will play a large part in your tuning. For us we load it up at the hit. Then as we go down track we take fuel away. In our carburated were not allowed to take timing in or out. The injected guys are so they do both. This will increase as your percentage increases. And your ability to use AFR readings will cease at some point. As percentage increases your hydrocarbon fuel decreases and you wont have enough 02 to read. Goodbye carbon dioxide hello nitric acid. I enjoy your adventure. Best of luck with it.

The lack of heat is perplexing. You may be on to something there. You have a large amount of engine metal for such a small engine. I doubt any manufactured engine ever built could withstand what you have put this PIP through! That is a victory in itself, sir.

This man is gonna set a speed record that will never be broken ever again

Let’s all just take a moment on how good he has the piston now as it has had loads of runs and power cycles and still letting the horses lose

Since you cut the stinger off, trim the pipe back until you can weld on another stinger of larger diameter and play with the length of it. To me it seemed the stinger length warmed up the air on the pulses just enough and removing the stinger the pipe was sucking straight cold air on the pulses cold air being denser having more pop that was the pops you saw out the exhaust on the pulses

"its not running like It should be". 30hp+ from a 50cc at less than 14000rpm. 30fkn horsepower. Thats insane, ridiculous. Really love the channel.

We've all been there with those 1/2 arsed bits of tube ideas. glad to see you pulled up in time ;)

Maybe you need an auto adjusting exhaust like the one I had on my nitro car. Theres a plunger inside that pushes back and opens a second exhaust exit when pressure gets higher

Something I learned from Marc Salvisberg is that it takes a long time for engine temperatures to stabilize. To begin, he would put the bike on the dyno with a light load at 3k RPM for 20 minutes. Then check engine casting temps around the crank with a non-contact IR thermometer until the numbers stabilized. This usually took around 45 minutes! He didn't pay much attention to bulk coolant temperature, so long as it was in a normal range. I hope this helps and good luck with your development project!

Remember, the ignition advance is the time from spark to max pressure - the angle translates as a time. The smaller the advance the more efficient your combustion. Perhaps a knock sensor would give you a measurement of cylinder pressure to match you advance with fuel mix. You need better instrumentation, you can't 'just try' , you are far beyond that. How that motor sticks together is something else. Have you had any siezures? Other than when you buy more fuel for the project?

The fact that there are flames coming out of a tuned expansion chamber are an indicator that the pipe is not doing what it is supposed to do.

That's me not getting back to my jobs for a while... 🤣

When you eventually go efi route, what about a efi system similar to the old “single point injection” on late 80s/early 90s cars. Computer control replicant of the carburettor, no port or crankcase injection. Easier to get reliable quick changes to fuel supply. Also could use the 4x coil supplies onto one plug to ensure the coils can saturate well enough between each ignition?

7:18 This cut right here says it all. The engine starts every time now, no need for footage of trying to get it started. It's a foregone conclusion.

In regards to the title, I remember hearing about top fuel cars and how they use 2x40amp (if remembered correctly) magnetos for spark so that the spark had some time to dwell because theres so much nitromethane in the cylinder. That and horrendous amounts of timing. Anyway keep at it, absolutely brilliant to watch and an inspiration for anyone who has ever hit a wall and gave up on something they worked so hard to accomplish. .

Hell yeah! Exactly what i needed right now!

I don't know if it is in anyway related but back in the day when our 50cc 2 strokes bikes where cold they also kinda chocked in higher RPM, after warming the engine up with a few stuttering pulls they would suddenly come alive. This was especially so for the higher modificated engines. So from my very very limited knowledge and view, your theory sounds very plausible :)

Correct me if in wrong. On a 2 stroke without writing an essay the exhaust is shaped the way it is to allow the engine to have a "virtual valve" using the backpressure wave, I always thought this was to keep a hotter richer mix ready for combustion, with a turbo there you don't want that same back pressure as you're effectively "saturating" the chamber with new fuel rich gas. So don't have the need for the wave of pressure the exhaust creates. In other simpler words I think you're onto something with the extra byproduct of burning nitro fuel. Chop off the exhaust at the widest part. Nitro car fuel is notoriously dirty, I used to race the cars. The residue is enormous from unburnt oil. There's poss not enough time for the exhaust port to get rid of all the spent fuel/oil

The Nord 'infomercial' was v. funny actually. Considering the context of the presenter and his channel I feel they'd be rather happy with that effort LOL.

Maybe limiting the boost pressure with a wastegate could help you figure out what's happening at different pressure levels. In my humble opinion it would have an impact with all that.

"Half arsed" Cant beat honest talk. Loving the show.

Alex.. had this issue on my rc gas boat engines when heavily modified. It seemed when I ported past a certain exh timing it would do it. The fix according to all my testing on the engine dyno was a larger pipe and stinger. Still hit at the same rpm but did not fall off and hit the misfire window I had battled on water testing in the boat for 2 years. The engine dyno I built and you have seen was allowing me to test much quicker without risking the expensive boats. Food for thought. This was my exact problem. When I built a larger stinger alone it made zero difference. It needed the larger volume pipe!! Can't wait to see what your cure is. Great work so far bud!!

Cooling to much as you said is probably right. I'm also thinking that maybe some more time area on the exhaust port. Not extra duration but extra area. With the higher pressure now, maybe it needs a larger port? 🤔

What a fantastic video Alex, that was progressive testing. I'm well chuffed for you!

Even on established forced air induction systems spark plug gap can make or break a tune. It's crazy how close you are to fine tuning all this from the ground up. All these different parts not made to work together working in harmony in such a small window to work well. just mind blowing!

It is the exhaust mixing with the intake. change the bore design to have the exhaust port exit right above the intake to prevent them mixing or the boost chase exhaust out. also add fins inside the exhaust pipe like a torque converter to assist in exhaust gasses only exited out one way. Thanks Ant's

As much as I’m loving this forced induction concept I’d like to see you go back to your original pip design, no blower, and use the second intake at high rpm. Be much better option to run on the salt flat Keep up the good work Alex 👍

In nitro top fuel engines they use 2 spark plugs per cylinder. I know they are 4 stroke but it might be something to think about.

I have watched you build this motor and it is already Iconic. I will drive to Bonneville to take see you succeed next year!

It's 3.30 AM and just finished reading most of the 1109 comments posted, and still buzzing. PiP has a lot to answer for! Not long to wait now hopefully for the next installment of Alex's 2STROKESTUFFING. Warm the water up Alex!

Have you looked at running a resistor in line with the ignition input to help filter out some of the electrical noise? Its pretty common on aftermarket ecu etc when it comes to high reving engines. The higher the engine speed the more noise is generated and its like they hit a rev limiter like yours is doing. Superfast Matt had the same issue with high reving engines in his latest RU-vid video.

I already know this is gonna be a awesome video

twin spark plugs will light the fuel. One thing to remember is the elevation of Bonneville.4000ft above seawater

Love the ads that play on your channel. No idea what they are saying. Perfect

Woho perfect timing! thank you for the great content :D

Interesting thought about the temperature, would pre-heating the fuel be an option to increase vaporization, and would it be safe?

I do like the shots of the flame coming out of the exhaust. The internals of the engine seem to be holding up pretty well to the dyno abuse. The piston, cylinder, and rod don't seem to have any issue at all.

At these RPMs I would have had my engine seized a 1000 times. Your work is very good. Keep it up!

maybe an o2 sensor could help you see what kind of exhaust mix you get and how far off you are from stoichiometric ratio?

It seems you have all the necessary machines there have you thought about making your own metering rods?

Hi! 1.Preheat the fuel at 80oC(you can use heating resistence from the refrigeration system ...or put an cooper pipe for the fuel and circle around the exhaust pipe !) 2.put spark plug(iridium tip) without resistance and replace wire from the sparkplug with cooper multifilar wire

You're getting there! Glad that a few suggestions were helpful. E.g., Advancing the timing due to nitro and methanol's relatively slow burn rate (compared to gasoline and methanol). Increase the spark energy exponentially to fire-off the difficult to burn nitromethane. Reduce the oil content to between 2 and 4% (the engine's anti-friction bearings don't require any more than that... with a good synthetic (e.g., polyol esters) . Note that higher percentages of nitro require greater and greater ignition advance. Buy the way, forget about trying to vaporize nitro. The very high flow rates (even at stoichiometric A/F-1.7/1), minimize the chances of adding anywhere the amount of heat to initiate vaporization (258 btu/lb); methanol is worse at 472 btu/lb; gasoline is only 135 btu/lb; A high degree of atomization is about the best you can hope for... but the unburned (liquid) nitro helps to cool the cylinder-another irony! Your radio-controlled car required relatively high percentages (14-16%) of lube in the fuel because the connecting rod was fitted with bushings-not anti friction bearings, as is yours. As far as being able to attain a clean throttle-response throughout the rpm-range with 30-40% nitro R/C engines fitted with carburetors... that was almost impossible to achieve without the oil-content cooling off the engine's glow plug element. We were able to reduce that problem by incorporating electronic fuel injection, which incorporated a mapping procedure (time-consuming). You really need to measure the actual A/F of the meth-nitro mix that you're using. Have fun! I HAVE A BOOK FOR YOU. HOW CAN I CONTACT YOU (NOT BY SOCIAL MEDIA)?

I’ve been watching this because at some point I was working on a DKW two stroke car and saw your first engine project. I believe that you won’t gonna be able to rev it much past the 15k mark you’re at because it just can’t. The compressor requires power to rev and the engine just simply can’t get enough fuel inside to generate it. I think that doesn’t matter how much fuel and air you shove into it it will escape directly to the exhaust, which would explain the explosions on the exhaust. You might be near the limit on this project. On a NA engine you would be able to rev easily past that because it wouldn’t lose power to the supercharger. Compressors also have a ideal work range, in terms of pressure and rpm. Maybe you need to change it to rev. Keep on trying I’ll keep watching

The reason you're able to run so much timing is because you don't have high enough compression in that engine and you're having to compensate by adding timing to make more cylinder pressure. You can almost put out a match in high octane nitro like the top fuel dragsters use but you smack it with a hammer it goes boom. Clay Millican has a video on it

"Welcome back to this *Taking a Carb off this Engine Channel*" had me laughing out loud to myself in my kitchen mate haha 😂

Great video. Keep pushing the envelope bro. You are a true visionary. Boldly going where No one dares to go. Much love from Canada 🇨🇦

Hey man - the inconsistency of the revving (almost) whenever you keep the throttle in one place (ex. 85% throttle), in relation to the fact the it varies very little in behavior no matter how much you play around with mixture, gives me strong associations towards my old very tuned Kreidler moped that acted all funny no matter what we did to it - until we realized it that the aluminum carb manifold had cracked and therefore the mixture kept changing all the time as the carb moved slightly around. I don’t think your engine gets ‘false air’ but to me it surely acts like the mixture isn’t consistent to what you set it to. I really think you should do what ever you can to make sure that it only gets fuel from safe sources in the carb, and fully lock out all alternate fuel channels (as in hoses that aren’t clamped well enough) 😅 And my belief in this theory is strengthened by how compliant your engine is - that cylinder is eating what ever you throw at it, and I amazed I score the plating yet. But the compliance despite your large adjustments, really makes me think you have a false fueling source somewhere that doesn’t deliver consistently. Try to narrow the fuel sources down to as few as possible, and make sure they are fully shut. And then make sure another time around so they are actually shut 😅 Love your proces - hey hey Fra Danmark og bliv med at prøve!

yey new video :)

Your intros to your commercials are the best. Make me laugh every time.

That man in the middle attack joke was gold 🤣👌🏻

Add a larger stinger and thread a bolt into it to make it an adjustable restriction.

Fully agree about the heat , it cannot be efficient at that temperature

Im sooo exited to see this in a bike in the future! It is so awesome seeing the improvements every episode. Hälsningar från Sverige!

you can try to index the plug so it is not facing the intake .its blowing the spark out

Yes I think your right. It very well could be lack of heat. Part of you adjusting plug proves part of this also. Give it the heat!!!!

Header lenght from piston to pipe is very important. Set up a removable pipe in-between header and pipe, cut differant sizes & try. A Slippy Pipe would tell you what you need to make, as you already know.

Really nice cinematography, you are really multi talented.

I think you need more spark(output power), timing due to the nitro fuel and get them temps up in the engine and you'll be mint!

Could you maybe do a workshop tour someday? I would realy like to see more of where the magic happens.

I was going to say something last video about ignition. I believe top fuel methanol dragsters use something like 180 amp spark to ignite the cylinder full of fuel

I put a crane digital ignition system on a 68 Camaro 383 stroker with the fireball digital coil it was like a flamethrower you could hear it buzzing inside the car so easy to adjust the timing just turn the dial ran a lot better

One thing for sure is that if/when this thing lets go it's going to be spectacular.!!

It might be worth it to pick up or borrow a (relatively) cheap oscilloscope with ignition monitoring probes for some more data on your spark voltage waveforms.

Iridium spark plugs were created for engines with high dynamic compression in the first place. Iridium is radioactive and is making the gases in the immediate vicinity easier to ionize. That means a spark doesn't have to be as high voltage to jump the gap. In high pressure situations the ion channel of the spark needs much more voltage to ignite and iridium just like thorium in thoriated tungsten electrodes make this much easier because of the ionizing radiation.

I just bought a shirt! You're welcome! Keep on the perseverance my friend!

This is like National Treasure movies where the treasure is always around the next corner :)

"... A main jet.... In a lectron... Genius..." -Paul Gast probably (hehehe I love that dude! 💪👑)

in the past when i build a lot of kart engines like the fr125 rotax max i always tune the cooling system to around 67gr and even run them very lean to get max performance without problems .........................you will get there .

Find a MSD 6AL ignition box, that'll amp up the sparke quite a bit and its simple to hook up to anything with a single ignition coil. Or a Boost-a-spark. Both should work

Awsome progress in the last Weeks! Thank you so much for your dedication!

Why cold starts require more fuel is because the cold cylinder walls condensing the fuel. Gasoline burns the hottest with different temperature sparkplugs. While diesel and alcohol burn cooler. Nitro RC cars use a glow plug like a diesel and top fuel dragster don't even use coolant for a 4 second run before rebuilding the engine and go again. I'm absolutely not an expert in all this heat management but I think it's the right track to try with a hotter engine coolant loop.

I think the problem may be the temperature in the combustion chamber. Warmer air ionizes more easily, which is conducive to creating a spark at the spark plug. Leaning the fuel mixture increases the combustion temperature, which affects the ease of igniting the mixture. Another thing that comes to my mind is the problem with the proper charging of the coil at high revs. increasing the ignition advance angle gives it more time to charge, but the ignition may occur much later than you assume. My professor in college mentioned such a parameter as ignition delay caused by the coil charging time. By reducing the distance between the electrodes of the spark plug, the coil must produce less energy to spark. For tuning two-stroke engines, I use wideband lambda sensors from diesel engines (bosch lsu 4.9). I buy them used on scrap so even though they don't work for too long, it's not too expensive and you can check the composition of the mixture.

"Taking a carb off an engine" Excellent name for the channel! I understand and your passion, but i'm really curious to see this devil running on EFI.

In 43 years (and counting) of motorcycling with several friends who raced their bikes, I've only ever known one guy who could tune Lectron carbs.

Any two stroke bike when cold rides like it's got a cat caught in its carburettor, I think you are on the right path

yes add some heat, my ice racing two stroke wont rev out fully until nice n warm. I block the rad and change jetting and mixture to achieve that

This is so very fascinating, tuning in every week intently following all of his hard-won developments, every up and down.. and up! From the time seeing this 37,000 thousand people have watched this video too. Was wondering if all of them found it as interesting and entertaining as I have. Okay keep up the good work👏

In your typical RC car motor they are using a glow plug that acts like a catalytic converter once heated electrically, producing the heat you need to keep firing the nitromethane and continue running the engine. too many times I have had those break while the engine was already running and as soon as the engine stops, its done for, but up until that point it stays hot, even if the wire inside was broken due to the catalytic conversion, I'm not sure what the plugs are made with inside but guessing platinum or rhodium?

I really appreciate your approach. I am learning sooo much. I used to play at tuning 2 stroke Model aircraft engines and the heat of the glow plug was a key aspect when increasing RPM and fuel volumes. Keep going so I can keep learning... Thank you

When I raced 125 rotax karts, I had an engine that only ran between 58 to 60c. Any lower, and it would feel like it's "4stroking". It would sound deep and like it's overfueling. Leaning the main jet helped this, which in turn heated the engine up. Running a less oil in fuel also had the same effect. On cold days, you would just tape up the radiator. When you had days where the engine was running hot, sometimes putting a larger main jet in actually made things worse. If you were running hot with a high main jet, we would have to change the plug and adjust the air mixture screw by 2 or 3 turns. Sometimes it was only open 1/2 turn on really hot days. On cold wet days it could be open 3 1/2 turns.

Just a quick idea an automotive oscilloscope such as the hantek could be used for the diagnosis of your ignition system.

David Vizard once told a story about an ignition system he spec'd and built for a race car. They didn't use it because they were afraid in case of a wreck the rescue crew running up to the car would be electrocuted if they grabbed the car!!

Hi no expert here, but i had problems tuning my rc 28cc nitro boat engine running 50% nitro mixture. fixed the tuning issues by extending the header pipe length by 52mm which gave me more adjustablilty on my mixture screw and reaching 28 000 rpm.

What a fun and compelling quest. Thanks for sharing!🍻

My favourite part of this channel when he takes the carb off again! 🤣

Some old David Vizard books I used to read .. Engines 101: Heat = HP.... Contain the heat inside the cylinder and then get rid of it ASAP ...