Surfing a SUPER FAST beach break. 

It's a fun wave, especially when the direction is right.

@@BradJacobson If this was during the recent week-long run, I looked at the wind forecasts - and saw junky conditions in the morning, just about everywhere... even this spot... Though it actually doesn't look too bad... I got a report from around the bend to the S - that said things were fairly good on the lower tide, despite the onshores... But I'm looking for the A+ session - always... And with these winds and tides - that was the PM session on the outer reefs at Secos - day after day... It can be worth shooting, though obviously not the kind of hollow-but-cruel mistress, that you tend to favor...to which list, we can add the spot above... Though with a good offshore wind, and/or a lower tide/crossed-up swell... Well that spot, and the ones from the Restaurant to the creek - can actually become quite peaky and perfect.

That’s one of my favorite movies 👍

Thanks. Possibly my favorite comment yet! 👍

It was a fun morning. Hopefully more fun days coming soon.

Thanks! I’m a huge fan of both Warren and Bruce.

Thanks! That’s one of my favorite movies

looks so fun

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks! Yeah, I really love Bruce's work.

Thanks 👍

or you could drive 5 miles north and surf leo carillo and county line or 15 miles south and surf malibu

@@matthewmatuszak9034 That is awkward... I meant that these waves are like what i have at home, not that my home is near this waves. I'm in Brazil, I can't drive a few miles and be in Malibu lol But your point is valid, just go somewhere else, I know.

@@BrunoMussoi oh, sorry about that, I misunderstood you. If that’s the best wave in your area then I guess it’s just tough luck.

Swing by and say hi if you see me again

Thanks! Would be fun.

can’t see much kooks coming out here. the wave is too difficult for them.

@@mendellang8379 youd be surprised, it’ll be too difficult but they think they’re pro cause they started surfing in covid

@@mendellang8379 is that right? omg you must be a amazing surfer bud

no such thing as a secret spot in LA, lmao.

Yeah, surfed here for 20 years. Even when slater and the Malloy bros were on it on a freak cross up in 97 there was still plenty of space. It gets so good there and other breaks in that area, soooooo good. It just hardly ever happens and you got to know your charts inside and out to not waste a trip cause it’s walled all the time in that area too. Can’t expose spots this fickle. It was better back then too. I think it’s because of sand loading and rain whatever’s.

Absolutely

Thanks! More coming soon ;)

Yep, I'm a huge Bruce Brown fan.

"experts" LOL It doesn't take an expert to ride on your stomach.

Then go ride on your stomach and go get barreled braddah!!!! What’s else is there to discuss??!!!!🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽 CHEEEEEEEE