LMAO...I absolutely love watching these greatest wipeout series of vids, this one is super funny and entertaining, FMD he took poundings at Cloudbreak in one day..lol insane in the membrane or what...great stuff guys with these vids. absolutely brilliant, love hearing the stories..
I'm so proud of you for exposing your inner feelings at last. "when i eat it i get a rush....". Such sensitivity. A gold mine of information for use by a genuine therapist. SJH
What I'm seeing on a lot of these wipeouts (Healy's, Pete's etc) is not necessarily rider failure but the limits of the equipment. It's apparent that the board just can't do the required speed and becomes held up, causing the rider to fly off at a tangent-
i had a double under once on a 6 foot day at el porto and thought i was gonna blackout. first i panicked, but then i relaxed..i felt the euphoria and just smiled. then i just came up and sucked wind.
I went over the falls onto a 3 foot deep sand bar during sandy on a solid 6 footer and just relaxed and accepted my fate. I was happy because I didn't hit the sand and I was kind of in a euphoric state whilst being thrashed around.
It sounds stupid but what he described then about being relaxed while being on the edge of death is exactly what drowning is like, many scientists have said the most peaceful way to die is drowning
garrett you are the man child. only a matter of time bro. you are going big but what is big enough. you should consider a aqua lung or a vest that inflates on big impacts. good luck superman.
Yeah happened to me once. It was really calm, quiet, peaceful. I only realised what was happening when i touched the bottom and that jolted me out of the dreamlike state - I'd forgotten I was underwater! I got to the top pretty quickly but I was in shock for hours afterward.
It is actually very easy, most important thing. Stay down for a couple of seconds, to let it move along a bit. Then, you come up :P But, when the surf is that big.. it's just about impossible.
It was just two waves, so probably more like 20-40 seconds... but as anyone who's been held under knows, even 5 seconds feels like about 2 mins! Rare breed he is. Reminds me of the legendary 'Flea' in the pioneer days of mavericks,... both seemly enjoying being punished by the ocean.
Its not that deep. Cloudbreak just keeps you in the soup current forever! You always want to wipeout carrying the least amount of forward speed possible!
Dude should just shut up so we can enjoy the surf. Noone cares about every thought and movement and blah blah blah... Its just fun to watch and that's all.
My bit of advise is get a board that actually works, a Geoff McCoy single Gull Fin design. Talk to the right people for boards. Talk to Geoff McCoy, for a single fin for these specific waves. Those boards in this video are primitive crap. If one person listened during one of these sessions, everyone would see. In Fact. Fly me out there Surfline. I'll ride those waves on my 7'2" Astron Zot Nugget, the same design I was easily catching a 15 foot face wave on in the photo, you have, of "Delray Beach" Florida 2-8-2016, on the outside, and that was not "Delray Beach". The photo Jeff took.That was actually to the North on an outer very uncrowded reef in Palm Beach. I challenge you or any sponsor to show how Geoff McCoy single fins are light years ahead than anything anyone has ever rode. But, if you don't take me up on this challenge, it might be that, like Hollywood, you as a tribe, the corrupt surf industry, black balled Geoff McCoy out of envy, by the Busting Down the Door crew, back in the day.