Thanks you for all your videos😊 it helped me a lot. Just made a bearing and grease service on my 6 month old spark rc, it was making noicees alreday. Love the bike its so fun to ride🚴♂️
Awesome Instructions Tom, I would suggest use of much thicker grease such as Finish Line Premium Teflon Grease, its much harder to wash out and keeps water out of bushings and bearings. Also would use bit more grease but its my preference :D
Thanks a lot, Nikica! I also believe that everything should be greased as f***! :D yet at the same time this will be a trial and error thing to see if its really have to be all over the place to keep it smooth 😅✌ But for the grease type itself - definitely, the one used is just a generic assembly one :| One thought though - while more grease makes it smoother, maybe, just maybe - it also attract dirt into everything and screw things up in some degree?
@@tom10crafted Since linkage is moving only 1/4 of a turn it won't impact the suspension. It might attract dirt outside but definitely will keep water and dirt out of bushings and bearing seals. Trial and error since each of us has different riding conditions and washing schedule.
One very good thing I noticed somewhere is during the cleaning, its suggested to spin the bearings half a turn that they would further rotate in different area of the circumference - how smart is that!
Hi Thomas- Have a 920 spark 22’ that I changed the rear shock cable. Torqued everything as needed on pivot bolts, except that INNER one on the lower pivot. Now I’m getting an odd clunk after the shock is in full lockout & in medium setting. Not when fully open via twin lock. Thinking it might be something on lower swing arm as you said you had been getting. A friend said try pull & clean lower swing arm bolt & sleeve first. Then possibly coming from shock bushings if not that lowerswing arm area. ?- - Thoughts? - Can’t say THANK YOU enough for sharing this video! So awesome….. 👍👍🤘👍🤘👍
Hey Michael, thanks for your message! Cleaning, greasing and torquing can never be a bad option - thus, definitely try it! But before that make sure you figure out where the noise is coming from - whether the swingarm itself is all "in place" and does not have side movements/loosiness.
Thanks for the great videos! Can you describe with more detail what is going on with the top bolt for the shock? Why has it been updated? In which cases does it need to be replaced?And why is it so important to replace it? Sorry for all the questions I just can't find the answers 😄
Hey, thanks! As far as I know black (10Nm) is made from different material, softer, thats first. The second, is that that bolt being torqued at 10Nm receives enough stress to be able to loosen. There are plenty of picts in the internet how it looks like when that bolt comes loose (damage frames) So for me it sounds obvious not to risk it and be with peace of mind !
Thanks very much Tom, very very useful 🙏🏻. You speak about a technical Scott documentation but where can we find it, what is available on Scott website is very poor 😥
Thanks! That 10mm hex is 15Nm - because in essence its the same axle which is being torqued from non drive side, just from drive side its 10mm and CCW.
Hi there @tom10crafted can you tell me if you have video of changing the gear housing? Looks like we need to remove the rear triangle for that operation or at least lose some bolts from the rear triangle and the foam to avoid noise how do you put it. Thank you 🙏
Hey man, I don't have a video, but there are two general cases: 1. To loosen down swingarm and then have better access through the frame. 2. To use cable guides. I actually used both of those in conjunction - when servicing swingarm, I changed the cable using cable guides and it was pretty much flawless. In order to not mess up the foam just hold it with the fingers through suspension doors while pulling the cable. I don't have strict opinion whether doing it top to bottom or vice versa is easier.
I found this resource in FB groups and at least Techbook is credible for sure: celum.ssg-service.com/smartViews/view?view=SCOTT-Bike-B2B-material&fbclid=IwAR3nmrJpgG_phcZJ0p7405U6dN9oUVjlqsP5omumEjUaF0W6gqkchSTwdhc
Where did you get the Scott Bikes diagrams of parts and the tech book. I would love to have a manual. My wife's RC WC spark is getting a clunk when she moves the twinlok to middle or lock out position. Sometimes it works at the midpoint but then after hitting pumps the shock sort of locks out. It is not totally locked out but it moves like an inch with a clunk noise. I need to go back and check the washers as I think I put smooth side against bearings. I also need to double check that washer wear the screw keeps the preload locked.
Take a look here: celum.ssg-service.com/smartViews/view?view=SCOTT-Bike-B2B-material&fbclid=IwAR3nmrJpgG_phcZJ0p7405U6dN9oUVjlqsP5omumEjUaF0W6gqkchSTwdhc Its a link someone shared in FB group and it has lots of different content including maintenance tech books!
Hello and thank you for your video. I have a question regarding the "MP DRIVE SIDE ONLY" metal washer. Where do you place it and in what direction? Thanks
@@tom10crafted Ok thank you very much, if I understand correctly it is on the lower axis of the swinging arm on the bottom bracket side, with the text facing outwards and therefore on the bottom bracket side, with the widest part pressed against the rubber washer against the bearing?
It's perfect, thank you very much for your details. The metal washer had fallen off during dismantling without me being able to see where it was... Thanks to you it came back correctly. Really thank you very much👍👍👍
Yes, just first remove the bolts from the top of swingarm. Then in that order: 1. Remove shock bottom, trunnion bolts 2. Unscrew shock top one through the side hole in the frame on the non drive side:) Inserting is the same process backwards
Hey there thanks agian for the videos. I have now noticed some play in the rear suspension. It feel slike it is the top mounting bolt for the shock. Have you expereinced this and had a fix? My only other thought is it is the lower mounting axle since it takes a beating. Thanks in advance.
Hey, it depends where the movement is coming from - hold the frame and try to wiggle the rear wheel. Do that with suspension locked and then unlocked. That will give a better clue at which times the wiggle happens. Lastly, make sure your shocks top bolt which mounts to the pivot is NOT BLACK on which its writen 10Nm. If it is, you need to change it to updated version (titanium like), with 15Nm markup.
SO if I hold the rear tire to the ground with one hand then grab the top tube of frame with other hand and lift up there is slack or play and feels like it is where the top mounting shock bolt is or maybe its the rockers. I hope I can fix this as I have to part kit with all the bushings and such. Does your bike have this play?@@tom10crafted
@@shredntread9600 this sounds like potential thing - take some blunt tool (flat screwdriver works), looks at the bike from the rear. Now on non drive side top pivot (left) between the pivot and the frame there is few mm gap. Behind it, its preload ring. With screwdriver, see if you can push it down any bit (its black threaded nut sitting there)
Yeah I will try that but I also now noticed that if I hold the lower bottom mounting bolts on each side fro the shock tha tis where the play is...those black plastic bushings migth be worn out or something ... @@tom10crafted
Tom is seems you use the same grease for all elements even on Carbon frame. I though we were suppose to use a special grease for pieces in contact with carbon … ?
Thats a very great point! I can't tell you for certain whats the best. Personally I use carbon paste for assembly only on parts where they create lots of direct friction (seatpost, mounts on handlebars). But, I am not an expert in this field, haha!
what are the precise measurements of the pin that holds the shock absorber? I mean the one that is inside the frame and can only be accessed by deflating the shock slightly and has a T30 torx screw head. since they don't sell it individually and mine is ruined I wanted to have it done by a turner
Hey, I assume we are here about chainstay. Then on the non drive side - one rubber washer. On drive side - rubber + bold metal one. Both rubber washers are placed with black side facing the bearings. Meaning - yellowish/metalic face outside
@@Mickem02 Here it is: celum.ssg-service.com/smartViews/view?view=SCOTT-Bike-B2B-material&fbclid=IwAR3nmrJpgG_phcZJ0p7405U6dN9oUVjlqsP5omumEjUaF0W6gqkchSTwdhc
In 6:21 you are saying that "Black towards the bearings" but both sides of this part are black :D Did you mean side without letter should face the bearings?
Hey Michael, its about the washers, not that spacer:) the rubber/metalic washer which goes on the bearing in both - main pivot and chainstay. Metalic goes outwards
Hi Thomas! How much psi is in your nude and with how much sag do you go? Do you use full travel with this setup on a usual / gnarly round? I run about 160psi at my 78kg (incl. Gear): sag is ok, also feels ok... but i never use full travel (maybe 2/3 to 3/4). Should i go lower with the pressure, what do you think?
Hey man, I am a bit heavier (82kg without gear), and I tend to go around 165psi when it is more technical. On faster marathons I even add 5-10more. Honestly don't look into sag setup anymore, as I pretty much used to the feeling based on the psi's listed ! If you don't use full travel, then absolutely try reducing the air by 2psi or so until you reach the point where o-ring gets few mm from falling up
Hi Tom! I have a question as I recently had my frame under warranty. Could you tell me if you have any lateral play (roughly 1 mm) in the swing arm? Thanks a lot in advance!
Hey Aaaron, did your swingarm was replaced because of the movement? Also, I get it might be hard to tell, but have you noticed whether this movement comes from the top or bottom pivots?
Hey Tom, thanks for the super fast answer. So, the play is precisely in the upper swing arm (the aluminum one, where the tiny pretension screw is) where it inserts in the main frame. My frame was replaced in warranty because the seating of the bearings there was uneven and led to some excessive lateral play in that part. I still see some after the replacement but to a lesser degree. I guess they play with tolerances and that's why that tiny pretension screw is in there but... That much?
@@killermaiden That makes sense, thanks for clarifying! Most likely the issue is with the preload ring inside of "left pivot" of main linkage (if we look from the back of the bike) Basically, take a look at this video from 4:45, I guess the movement you have comes from there!
