If you haven't changed your gearing the bike will still be pulling the same revs as before at highway speed. Sounds like you are pretty happy with the upgrade 👍
Hey buddy. I’m no mechanic and happy to learn new things. So thanks for your comment. Can you let me know your thoughts on why the bike FEELS to be revving lower and pulling higher speeds per gear? I want to be as accurate as I can with what I say in my videos. Thanks I’m advanced 👍
Hah! I had a stick break off in my leg a few years ago. Thought I got it out, and it healed over. A couple of years later, the scar got itchy and scabbed up. The scab was actually a 20mm perfectly preserved bit of wood. My leg finally rejected it. I think there is more in there. Good idea going to the doctor..
Absolute gold. This information is priceless Lance. Well presented. Similar to a prior comment, I run the stock standard 14T front /42 rear. Almost same ratio as a 15/44. Well done on 10k+ subs mate.
Good work mate, the bike sounds really healthy. It's good that the kit makes such a difference. There's nothing worse than dropping money on something that supposedly improves your bike only to be disappointed.
I'm running a stock motor with the Safari tank and the 15-44 gearing and can confirm all your experiments are correct. The 15-44 gearing is the game changer. Eventually I want to do the big bore but in it's current configuration, it is an excellent light weight adventure bike.
Welcome Sally 2.0 !! Bloody good on ya for doing this overview, much appreciated. Real glad the transplant has made the grin even bigger....and your vids of the big trip were great cheers mate 👌
I haven’t waited in anticipation of a RU-vid video as much as these last two in a long time. Well done Lance, I was a mechanic and engine builder in my past life and think you put a lot of thought and good work into your build. I see a lot of cowboys on RU-vid and forums that make me shake my head and it was very apparent you have done your homework. Shame about the throttle slide, it is a common problem on these FCR carbs and had you known about it and swapped it out the Dizza may have run another 30 thousand ks. At least you have a fresh top end and a more grunt for your trips. Keep that Dizza and show us how many more ks she can give you. Well done.
I think you're on the money with the fuel range. I've had the 17L Safari tank and the CW 434 big bore kit since 2015 and I consistently get 420-450kms before hitting reserve, with a mix of highway, dirt and urban commuting. I run 14/41 gearing which I believe is basically the same as 15/44.
Thank you for this video! I was on the fence on doing a 470 stroker with 15/ 49 gearing!! I'm ordering my kit right now! Due to your review!! Thanks Vince Early Oregon USA
I stumbled across this channel and old mate's you went to top end with. I'm in my 40s never held a riders licence seeing the advantage over 4x4 I'm getting real keen.
Mate jump on board with the adventure riding community. You’ll make life long memories and explore a whole lot more in my opinion. Best bit is you can get a DRZ from day one to as they are L approved.
Great bikes those DRZ's, had one for years. Interesting the fuel mileage you get, my adventurised KTM525 seems to get 21.3kmpl no matter what sort of riding I do, not sure if that's a result of my non aggressive riding style or a result of the bigger bore bikes being able to chug around not having to breathe to heavily like you mention here, either way great review and great to see your up and running again! cheers!
no substitute for horse power.....trade off to go to big...no jetting required....now you have both...HP and longevity....best of both.....thinking of 685 kit for my 22 klr...nice winter project.
great video lance always wondered what it would be like with big bore kit. i wont bother doing mine as i ve only done 700klms on it since 2009. ride safe mate. thanks for the reveiew.
@@johnmignano7872 yeah mate I have it stock. No need to change it as the Aussie DRZ400e model comes with better jetting than the overseas version. No need to change it.
Good work on the rebuild, not bad for an apprentice. I am interested in what went wrong with the carby and what needs to be done to prevent it happening, my DRZ has done 21,000 km. so I am looking to prevent the same problem. Keep the videos coming, very informative.
Mate I have since learnt that the flat plate/carby slide whatever you want to call it is a perishable item and is recommended to be replaced at 20000km or some say 25000km as a preventative. Obviously it may never break but does seem to be pretty common on higher kilometre bikes. It’s a 300 dollar part though and a punish to to instal as the whole carby has to come out. Heaps of DRZ owners have sent me photos of their break downs with the same problem. In my opinion mate replace it now and then again at 40000km or close to.
Any excuse to take your pants off in a video mate 😂 Good review 👍🏼 I got 420kms on my bike with no big bore kit. That was using all reserve fuel as well. So to get 450kms would be a nice addition 👍🏼
Do you wanna know something amazing? With the stock fcr39 carb, the 434 kit runs richer, and you can drop down the main a step or two and get even more power and even more range, I dropped down a few size and dropped the needs and I’m still within a good afr range
Noticed the PandC Suspension sticker on the front fork. Are they in Sydney area? And do you recommend? Looking for an upgrade on mine. Love the content. Wish I was half a good an off road rider.
Thanks for tuning in mate. I had mine done 6 years ago and the guy who did it is no longer around that I know of. So I couldn’t say if they are still operating. Try teknik in Penrith. They are really good.
Congrats on having a solid reason to install a BBK and doing it so 🤣 Did you use the single or multilayer base gasket? Just received my big bore kit for my 02 E (with FCR) and am not sure if I should use the thin or standard gasket. Pro for standard would be more tolerance to fuel quality but thin one results in more power. If you have any info on it let me know. Thanks for your great content and best wishes from Switzerland ✌
@@tellenforelle my advice is use the single layer material base one. I tried the multilayer one that came with the kit and could not get it to seal which caused coolant to mix with my oil. Very frustrating. Then I used the standard one and had no dramas.
@@The_Apprentice_Adventurer that is indeed something you don't want to see after getting the bike back together. Just to clarify by "single layer material base" are you referring to the metallic but plastic coated OEM gasket or the atermarket paper ones? I am also thinking about splitting the gasket that comes with it
@@tellenforelle yeah I was not to happy with it. Especially after establishing the gasket was the cause. I bought an aftermarket one but my original was also what I would call a material based one. No doubt the same as the paper one you are referring to. Definitely not a metallic type one like the top gasket though.
gearing and tyre diameter dictate what the revs will be doesn't matter what the size the engine is. you'll find that most of the difference comes from comparing a used motor to a fresh one.
I have had a few comments stating the same thing. I’m certainly not an engine expert. Interesting to hear such things though. Certainly sounds and feels like it revs less but always happy to hear and learn new things such as this. 👍
Yeah but each section of the ride uses different fuel levels depending on what gear I’m in and or revs being higher lower. Wanted to do a solid test covering all speeds.
how is the big bore kit 8 months later? what else do you have to do with the big bore kit? or is that it best way to compare power:speed is to just do say 60 - 80 or 40 - 80, try eliminating gear changes and launches anything from 0 depends on the take off which has so many variables.
Mate so far it’s been a treat and close to 4000km old. I’ll do a review video in a few more thousand to give my after thoughts on it. It’s just a plug and play so to speak.
Hey Lance, any idea what jetting you have in Sally? Just got mine installed. You are right, a lot more low to medium end grunt, but It doesn't like to idle when pulling up with the clutch in it stalls, just wondering if you had to change your pilot jet?
@@Ozzy-DRZ-Adventures hey buddy. Mate I have the standard jetting which for our Australian E models is spot on. Our bikes are jetted better then the overseas models. I did install an air/fuel screw to adjust on the fly. I found that mine needed an extra half turn or so to get right compared to the stock bore specifications. It’s possible that whilst removing the carb your idol needs re adjusting as well. Any more stuff hit me up through messenger and I’ll try to help more if needed.
@The_Apprentice_Adventurer I was going off all the American stuff out there even got the JD jet kit from Mxstore, it came with the tune sheet settings, it is crazy how far it is off, Just threw all the original main jet and needle back in and adjusted the ilde as you said and she's sweet as, Should of knew really as the big bore has more vacuum than stock so It pulls more fuel in to the combustion chamber requiring more air. There I was giving it more and more fuel and not enough air. Definitely jump down the rabbit hole there 😂 Thanks mate really appreciate the help and knowledge.
@@Ozzy-DRZ-Adventures all good mate. So many people buy the JD kit for the Aussie model when we already have it tuned from the store so to speak. If anything with the 3x3 mod and big bore it’s jetted perfectly. Glad you worked it out.
Just wanted a bike that could handle enduro better for when I started out riding but also could do a big ride. It’s just developed from there. Best decision I ever made.
50 lb lighter ... better suspension ... if you want more comfort in the road ... get a 650 ... if your priority is more off-road orientated ... get a 400
I’ve owned both. While the 400 is better setup for off road the gear ratios are tighter than the 650. So you have to choose between low end for enduro stuff or top end for 4-lane roads. For a light ADV bike on unpaved roads I think the DR650 is the better choice (after suspension upgrades).
Mate if you saw my edited out footage and how often I say the wrong words or say the wrong thing you’ll think I never went to school. I only get one shot while riding to speak as I go and I can assure you the pronunciation is second to my concentration.
To add, more power won't change road rpm. Only gearing can. By the sounds of it, you could drop a tooth or 2 on the rear and have much better ridability on road, shouldn't lose too much pop down low either
Yeah I have since learnt this. Your never to old to learn new things as the saying goes. I likely try a different sprocket size once these are worn out.
@@The_Apprentice_Adventurer ohh OK have you heard of GAITORS strollers and Hill climbers use them to fend off upper boot damage and weather..try army supplies for cordura or gortex
