I love watching the gentleman at work thank u 👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
On the later model clutch on the clutch pressure plate cover with the 5 springs and 10mm bolts what is the torque value for the springs and bolts. Please and thank you
Is this a 94 adikxx my rf900r is a 94 and I'm thinking imma have to do the clutch the bike had sat for 10 years + and went to ride it and it's slipping so bad I cannot ride it I rebuilt the slave cylinder all that so don't think it's it
Ok thanks man I'm curious if it's my clutch or the clutch master cylinder relief what the bike does it takes off but then spins bad then catches all the sudden lol I rebuilt my slave cylinder(thanks for that video lol)
hello good evening I saw that you put the super nice transparent crankcase cover I would like to put it too This clear crankcase cover for Suzuki RF900 R I'm looking but I can't find anything can you please tell me the link where to buy? or the compatible model of the suzuki that I have to take
If I have a 94 Rf and I put a 96 countershaft for it. It won't work with older style clutch right? Not long enough right. so I would need the easier style clutch for later models to fit on that clutch counter shaft right ?
@@CoryMariano-r7f I know that 94 shaft is longer and needs additional washers to work with later type basket. Hassle to make it happen. With this in mind I would assume that shorter shaft from later models won't work with earlier basket. Can't confirm as never tried it myself.
@@Adikxx well I forgot in the middle of putting my engine back together and in that the shaft would be shorter than my 94rf so I didn't want to take it all apart and switch it out so I just ordered a newer later clutch that will correct my shorter shaft issue right.
Hi is it realy that hard to Come by these clutchplates cause my rf 900 is at the shop but they cant seem to find the right ones So if you have any sugestions on were to order them i would realy apriciate it
There is no problem with getting them(at least in the UK) You could get plates from Fowlers parts, Robinsons Foundry, or even Ebay. Just be careful when ordering as 94 model has different clutch basket than later models.
I installed brand new clutch plates but it still keeps slipping. Soaked it in oil and measured the plates. Unfortunately i didn't have any plates with white marks so i think that is where the problem lies. It's the 3rd time now that i disassembled my clutch and i don't really want to do it a 4th time. Do you have any idea what i'm doing wrong?
1st question. What type of clutch do you have? The one with big 50mm nut holding the pressure plate? Or the one with classic 5 springs in the pressure plate?
@@KevinvN96 ok so here is what comes to mind: 1- did you replace the friction plates, steel plates and 2 diaphragm plates also? Ideally all those components should be replaced. It's recommended to use EBC harder diaohragm plates. That can help. 2- did you use quality parts? Cheap Ebay knock offs are known to be shit. Friction plates for example are slightly thinner which which means the whole pack of plates will be slimmer. This means that diaphragm springs will have harder job clamping the pack which in return means slipping of clutch. 3-friction plates should be soaked in oil for a few hours before installation 4-clutch slave cylinder can cause problems. Make sure that it operates faultlessly. If the spring inside it doesn't fully push the piston away your clutch will not be fully "released" which will lead to slipping. That spring must be strong and cylinder's surface should be smooth so the seal can freely slide on it without catching. 5.Did you torque up the pressure plate to correct torque? 6.Do you have the 2 large washers there ? One flat and other concave. Flat one first and concave one after pointing towards the engine. 7. Correct oil for wet clutch?
@@Adikxx 1. Yes I did replace the all the plates and the diaphragm plates. They are not ECB plates but they're genuine OEM parts 2. All OEM parts I've ordered 3. Yes I've soaked the plates for at least a day in oil 4. I redid the slave cylinder last year since I thought that was the root of the problem at first and I replaced the rubber and spring in there 5. I don't have a torque wrench for this kind of nut because it's too big so I just tightened it as hard as I could. It's also a bitch to keep the nut on the bolt because it likes to slip off. 6. they're still in there, I didn't touch those washers 7. Yes I do
@@KevinvN96 hmm that's damn weird to be honest as you did everything correctly. Check the thickness of steel plates , i think there should be 7 × 1.6mm plates and 2 x2mm plates. You can buy 2.5mm plates on Ebay to thicken the pack if needed. Finally i think it's beneficial to go for EBC harder diaphragm plates as they provide extra 15-20 % clamp. They're cheap on Ebay(maybe 15-20euros) It won't harm to properly bleed the clucth system. I hope you get it sorted. Shame we don't live closely, if we did i would remove my clutch basket and sent it to you for a test. If bike worked fine on mine we would know something is not right on yours. Sadly we're far away.. :(
This type of clutch uses so called "diaphragm springs". It's those 2 cup shaped washers behind the big nut. Standard clutch springs are not present in this model of clutch.
@@Adikxx So I finally got the correct clutch kit, however it didn't include the one smaller friction disk at the very back of the basket where the 2 small washers sit. Should I replace this disc and the small washer with a regular friction disk? I'm just so confused and want to get this right and not take it back apart. This is the only bike with this Clutch besides the GSXR-1100W model from earlier.
I've been trying to help a friend diagnose a dragging clutch on his R plate RF 900 after it had new gearbox fitted. Would this setup be the same as the R plate? I've recently rebuilt the slave cylinder and bled it a few times. There was no clutch drag before the gearbox was fitted so have questioned if the clutch has been over tightened when the gears were done but we've not had the weather to look at the clutch until recently, but also know I do not have a 50mm socket (yet)
From what i gather "R" plate in the UK is 1997 year? 1997 clutch in RF900 is a different type of clutch without diaphragm springs and 50mm nut is NOT needed to take it all apart. Funny enough i've just finished another RF900 project which was nearly full engine rebuild with installation of 6 speed transmission. In the first episode of that series i did complete clutch disassembly so you might find it useful in your situation. Link to the 1st episode of that of engine rebuild with clutch work below: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cvxci5J-qic.html
@@Adikxx thank you!! It is a 97, when it was sent off for the gearbox issue, a clutch was sent with it but the guy that originally done it said it was the wrong clutch which we have also questioned a few times but will give the video a watch at some point today and subscribe as I can't seem to find much about the rf900 and also being a car mechanic and not worked with bikes in about 20 years, I'm forever looking for things to help a friend out before he ends up scraping the bike
@@phileames1983 You'll get it sorted, matter of time. I have TONNES of RF900 maintenance and mods vids on my channel: carbs rebuild, jetting, exhaust mods,clutch rebuilds,performance cams installation and more. Even built 1100cc RF engine using GSXR 1100 bottom end :) It's a wonderful and underrated bike so make sure your friend doesn't get rid of it :) As a car mechanic with official service manual in your hand working on RF will be a joy.
@@Adikxx just watched the 1st video! The clutch is the same as his zzr 600 which I recently changed so checking the clutch will be easy! I know he's at the stage of put so much money into the bike that it's now got to the stage of he wants to get rid of it but I keep telling him not to as there's something that tells me it's a some fix but it's finding what been done by the previous guy which has caused the drag to come in as it originally left with the 2nd gear gone and no other issues, come back with clutch drag, can't find neutral unless the engine is off , struggle to go through gears but that turned out to be minor adjustment of the gear lever after doing the slave cylinder yesterday but I'll forward the link to the video to him now and hopefully he'll agree to letting me pull the clutch... His main issue at the moment is putting more money into it and possibly not getting rid of the drag but your vid has definitely been the best to watch so far!
@@phileames1983 i'd suggest checking a few things. 1st check if he has correct clutch pushrod in his slave cylinder. There were 2 types differing in length! Next check if all friction plates and steels plates are in correct order as there are 2 steel plates on the middle of the pack which are thicker than others! Also check if he has those 2 large rings(washers) deep in the clutch basket. One is flat and other one is "cup shaped" and needs to be installed right way round. Finally and maybe most importantly-has he got the transmission from the same year RF? Output shafts of early and late transmissions are slightly different lengths and the clutch basket with all plates mounts on it so if it's the wrong one..it might cause issues with engaging/disengaging of the clutch(maybe?) From my experience though check if installing steel plates the other way round clears the issue. I had a bike where clutch was dragging and changing gears was very hard, i flipped all steels the other way round and problem literally went away! Might be woth trying this too. Hope this helps.
@@joea6296 i had one on Busa, SV1000 and Gixer 11 RF is pretty srable so no damper on it but i have one and think of putting it on for visual effect, we shall see
@@Adikxx yeah i see i think going to go for the same handle bar set up as your rf has , with in time tho.... i mean it would hurt putting one on as well , Cool cool thanks for the info, cheers. Appreciate it.
In this vid you'll see the early type(GSXR type) with snap ring and 2 diaphragm plates under the pressure plate. The later type has 5 bolts with springs on each bolt and no snap ring to mess around with. Later type = easy job. Older type= pain in the rectum(and urethra)
@@Adikxx only thing i miss form the drawings and ... all the videos... The order of the washers... (spacers) 1 is behind the basket... 1 between the basked and the inner "head" ... then depending on the verison some other washers...)
hej a ta duża nakrętka to na jaką nasadkę ? i masz fajną pokrywę sprzęgła szukałem czegoś takiego ale nie ma :), Wymieniałeś cały komplet metalowe i materiałowe podkładki ?
Hej, sorki nie za bardzo skumalem o jaka nakretke chodzi. Pokrywa sprzegla robiona zamowienie w UK, gosc jest w stanie wstawic okno prawie do kazdej pokrywy. £175 plus wysylka. Wymienilem tylko tarcze cierne. Buziaki !
@@Adikxx siema sorki że tak męczę przemierzam się do wymiany łańcucha rozrządu w RF ce i mam pytanko czy ślizgi też wymieniać odrazu na nowe ? czy w zależności od zużycia? gdyż nie wiem na ile starczą jak się ich nie wymieni. No i co z napinaczem czy one są awaryjne ?
@@krispoland4452 Siema, nie ma problemu wal smialo o kazdej porze. Moja miala zmienione lancuszek oraz napinacz w 2016 roku. Ja slizgi zostawilem bo wygladaly bardzo dobrze wiec ja bym powiedzial, ze mozesz je zostawic. Jestem prawie pewien, ze jak bys porownal nowy slizg i swoj to roznica bedzie znikoma(no chyba ze masz ponad 100 tys km najechane:) KONIECZNIE wymien napinacz i nie daj sie skusic na manualny napinacz bo to jest proszenie sie o katastrofe. Kup nowy napinacz fabryczny Suzuki. Pytasz czy napinacze sa awaryjne, powiem tak - nie sa awaryjne (bynajmniej te od Suzuki z lat 90, Honda to inna bajka:) tylko sie zwyczajnie zyzywaja. Tam jest w srodku sprezyna, ktora musi coraz bardziej wysuwac bolec napinacza zeby on mogl utrzymywac wymagane napiecie rozciagajacego sie z czasem a wlasciwie przebiegiem lancucha. Im luzniejszy lancuch tym bardziej bolec napinajacy musi byc wysyniety zeby go napiac. Im bardziej wysuniety jest bolec napinacza tym mniej sprezyna jest w stanie oprzec sie "biciu" lancucha(prosta sprawa- scisnieta sprezyna stawia wiekszy opor niz sprezyna rozciagnieta w pelni) . W pozniejszej fazie bolec napinacza moze nawet zaczac pulsowac pod wplywem slabej sprezyny nie tylko w przod i tyl ale i nawet w gore i w dol(o jakies 1 moze 2mm) co daje charaktyrystyczne metaliczne stuki z silnika. Sorry za te wywody :) Pewnie itak wiesz jak jest, ale jak pytasz to rzucam moje 3 grosze. Lancuch D.I.D. i napinacz Suzuki.
