Just a little video of some loadings in a different powder, this time I'm going to see what these slugs will do with Blue dot powder. The plan is to shoot them @100-yards like before using Longshot.
You should get a small bullet starter from CVA that's used to start muzzleloader bullets. Would be a lot easier than a screwdriver. I can't wait to see the actual accuracy results. Hope you'll do a follow up video with targets.
Hello - I've got a suggestion for the split hulls - it's only the bit of hull at the end that is brittle - just set the hulls with split ends asside in a container of some sort, then use them for short shells - 1 3/4", 2", etc. IIRC BPI used to sell a hull cutter to make it quick & easy to trim off the end. Short shells are fun to play with, but it would be a shame to shorten perfctly good hulls. I like short buckshot shells myself, they work perfectly to defend my garden from woodchucks (nature's perfect garden terminator, which quickly learn to avoid live traps}.
I have to go to town today, one of the things is to get those slugs off to you in the mail. I'm sending 20 of them. If you have Longshot or Blue Dot, those two powders are a good choice.
Hey Dave. Sorry but I haven't got to making anymore tools lately. I was on vacation the week before last and was not feeling well the first part of last week. I'll try and get something done this week.
Hey Nick, do you have an idea when you will have some of your tools available? I see that your Hull vice is a big hit for unmatched quality. I know James has those in stock. Just wondering about the other stuff.
Ok mr. Dave I have a question when you are doing that hull conditioner how long do you normally do it for to heat them up I mean is it a set time are you going for feel of temperature on the casing can you explain that please
30 sec, to a minute. the plastic will be rubbery and flexible. You have to work with it, kinda like "How long do you leave the brass in your wet tumbler"? You will know when it is enough. Willie, it is just one of those tools you have to use to learn how to use it best.
Where can I get one of those priming and de priming tools. Great video , could you make a list of all the slug loads you have tried I would like to develop my own load, where do you start how do you pick a powder and a starting load?
Best advice to you is to buy a manual from Ballistic products. that is the best place to start. then as things get more familiar, you can experiment with different slug/load combinations. thanks for watching-Dave
I finally got one of the paradox molds. James was super generous too. There's another guy on the reloader's network named m i c who wants extra heavy slugs made from that. So James sent me a couple extra pins that I can modify to fill out and make the slugs heavier than standard. For my part I think I would actually want them to go lighter but I'm not complaining. Not really sure what to use as a data source for these. I think I will trade for a lighter load of blue dot and probably WSF since that's my favorite. Any suggestions for what I should use as a data source or starting load?
Do you think the Hydrants or the Paradox would be better for Smoothbore? Looks like the Hydrants have a bit of a "taper" to the driving bands, where the Paradox does not? Paradox is listed as .724 diameter for all driving bands/belts, where as the "Italian" (aka the Fire hydrant), is listed as the front side driving band being .724, and the rear driving band only .700? Is this correct?
How do I get a set of the Nick Ross shot shell prepping tools? I don't see them on reloadersnetwork. I love the hull vise I got. I like that hull funnel you are using also.
James is handling the inventory. when nick sent these tools to me he was working on doing a production of the case prep tools. as far as the roll crimper, the ones he sent me were prototypes and he hadn't started production on them at that time. Drop a note with James and he should be able to help you out. Dave.
I received my Hydrant mold and special tail wads in the mail!!! I had to order after watching your videos. What are you finding is the best load (Data) for them. Blue dot or Longshot? And what grain? Still loving the vids, keep it up. I have been watching Fortune Cookies as well.
Bob, I believe that Blue Dot or Longshot starting at about 30 grains is a good starting point. the Ballistics advantage manual lists longshot for the Galundi. that slug is the same as the Hydrant slug. The hydrant slug is an outstanding projectile in the way of accuracy plus combined with the power of the huge slug any medium to large game can be taken with it.-Dave.
@@Thorsaxe777 Hi Dave, I saw you had gone as high as 38 grains of Longshot. FC45LC has done the Paradox as you know and has done 34,36,and as high as 39.5 on bluedot. I saw his video on the comparison to factory. The 39.5 beat them but he said the 36 was even more accurate. I guess I was wondering what "YOU" found the best for the hydrant. Was it the 38 grain? The DGS (I have the manual from BP) is the slug that is in our Challenger FACTORY slugs. I cut one open and it is the exact slug. They use 35.5 grain and claim 1620 fps but I'm not sure of the type of powder. I did a primitive video on that and the score slug (factory but its the thug slug...exact) its on my channel from 4 years ago. My son helped out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-18QZec5uV1A.html I will be doing a penetration test between the factory challenger (DGS) and score (thug slug) and the Hydrant once I load them, just not sure If I should use blue dot, longshot and what grain. Bob
Do you ever do this test with these slugs and with blue dot at a 100 yards???? Also when you do this test are you shooting a fully Rifled barrel or a smooth bore?? I am very interested in this test because I am thinking about getting this Russian Svarog slug molds. Thank you for your videos.
Red dot is too fast of a powder for this, you need slower powders, Blue dot and longshot. I would advise you to not use red dot, that would be dangerous.
I have not got any leading in my bores, you may want to measure your muzzle size "Choke" wise and see if that could be a problem. also, once the bore is coated and conditioned with a waxy film, lead won't stick to it anymore. also, the chamber transition from chamber to barrel may be too much of a abrupt edge and that could be a source as well.-Dave
@@Thorsaxe777 Thank you for quick reply! The gun is quite new. Lead fouling occurs just after the chamber. Ill get me som wax then and try. What alloy did you use? Friend of mine suggested that i should go harder on the linotype to reduce the fouling. I am a little afraid of the pressure thoug, slugs are meant to be soft as i understand it. Svarog writes 3% tin and 97% lead.
That is something I wouldn't recommend. Hands down the best way to avoid leading and provide lubrication is to powder coat. Now that is my opinion based on the results I have obtained through testing slugs.-Dave
Yes I'm wondering how can I start something like what I see on this video I love and shotgun shells and all the rest stuff who would I talk to you and how would I start
I discovered the accuracy problem and the relationship of the wads separating when fired. I saw this on Jeff's Chanel Taofledermaus, he has ultra slow-motion camera equipment that (If someone really looks) tells the story about what happens when the slug exits the mussel. Thanks for your comment, I responded to your video and if you want, I could see about shipping items to you. Thanks for your Video dude. - Dave
