My recently acquired M1-Garand assembled in the range of '52 to '54 has what appears to be a set screw on the bottom side of the gas cylinder about an eighth inch below the visible part of the gas plug. It has been severely damaged by previous owner trying to remove it and the gas plug itself shows damage from attempted removal. Has anyone ever seen anything like this on an M1 Garand? I'd like to be able to post a picture of this but the comment section doesn't have such a feature.
I turn cheap Winchester white box into low recoil slugs and they do me well, during covid I was selling them as home defense rounds and turned 30$ 100rd box into 100$
Ok, I really do appreciate this info, and this is all helpful to know, but trying to keep track of all the components and their order is confusing as hell, why not just build it? The title of the video is also a bit misleading, because it’s not very easy as described, but maybe I’m just easily confused, lol! So, here’s what I got after watching three times: 32 grains longshot powder, nitro card over powder, first 1/4” felt wad on top of nitro card, then a second nitro card in bottom of Winchester AA pink wad to raise the ball up, then treat wad petals with something called “rooster jacket”, then treat the ball with floor wax (although not sure why liquid Alox or other lube wouldn’t work), then put what I assume to be a .690 round ball into the pink AA wad on top of the second nitro card, (and is this a pure lead ball, or harder cast?), then roll crimp, but your loaded round clearly shows something else on top of the ball that you don’t mention. (?). So what is that, a second 1/4” felt wad I’m guessing? Geez man! Sorry, here’s what I’m going to try: powder, nitro card, a different plastic tapered wad with a 1/4” felt wad under the ball, .690 ball, clear plastic overshot card, roll crimp. There shouldn’t be any need for lube anywhere with the right wad I don’t think. (?). And what choke are you using on your 835? Thanks for the look at your components, and please confirm what you’re using on top of the ball if you would. 👍 (Nice thing about a roll crimp, height of finished round doesn’t matter.)
I've heard good things about MP molds, which are made in Slovenia. You're right about the base - it must be even and square. I set my melter 650-700* degrees, and when the bullets look frosted, I back off a bit. Frosted bullets indicate the alloy is too hot, but still shoot just fine. I don't re=melt them. The wrinkles, as you note, indicate the molds/alloy are too cold. I have molds by Lee, SAECO, Lyman, RCBS, NOE, and NEI (now defunct) and all produce high quality bullets.
I disagree on your comment of 180 gr. bullets for 308 . Using 4064 powder with 180 gr. sst Hornady shooting .560 group at 2645 fps. could load faster but what for. already faster than factory rounds.
I once read an article where hopps gun cleaner was consumed by a child. The parent called poison control and was told not to worry it's just kerosene and that is nontoxic. Kerosene much cheaper than hopps
I believe Ballistol is just mineral oil with scent added. people using motor oil or ATF are giving themselves cancer. Good Video. Acetone is another great solvent/cleaner. Our bodies can tolerate/metabolize small amounts of acetone but use it in a well ventilated area.
My Truweigh scale screen died after about a week. I emailed them multiple times(could not find a phone number on their website), and nobody has even bothered to get back to me.
I use a 20 gauge with hand loaded round balls. I use a 0.575” Lee RB mold to make them then I use one 0.125 nitro card in the gas seal base of a BPi commander wad with two 0.125 nitro’s under the ball in the wad cup. Then I use one overshot card to make a nice 6pt crimp seal I won’t publish my powder charge or primer make because this load is not listed in reloading data. But I did start with minimum loads that others were testing in the same gun. Very accurate at 100 yds with 2” groups. I switched from 12 ga to 20 gauges because they are just as effective as 12ga with less recoil.
Well I bought one of these presses from a guy and tried it out tonight. But mine doesn't not throw powder and lead. It must not be pressure sensitive like yours is because I made a mess. Every time I pulled that lever the press threw both powder and shot whether or not there was a shell in the slot or not.
I use 3 things to maintain my firearms. Hoppes #9 bore cleaner, LSA for lubricating internals, & mineral oil for the exterior. I have a 32oz bottle if Hoppes that will last me a few decades. I wish they made Hoppes #9 cologne!!!!
So the pins placed in the top and bottom of the trigger were basically placed there to create less surface contact between the trigger and the frame which meant less friction resulting in a smoother trigger pull ? That would make sense to me .
Don't you idiots realise lead is poisonous. Time after time I see American fools smelting lead lead to make shot with no breathing protection or gloves on their hands. Lead remains in your blood for 1 month, soft tissue 1.5 - 2 months and remains in your bones for 25 - 30 years.
I have the TriStar Pointer in 20 gauge and really like it cause it fits me well however very often the bottom barrel doesn't fire which leaves me very frustrated. I shot one box out of it today and had six malfunctions caused by the light striking firing pin on the bottom barrel. Can anyone help me here?
