Swarm Trap Design , Placement , Baiting , everything. Catch FREE BEES 

Thanks Sir. Good luck this year !

Thanks, glad it helped you. I make a video whenever I realize I'm doing something that could help others. That's the only motivation. Goal was never to be a professional RU-vid with millions of views. Doesn't help that people pick apart "regular guy" videos ... lol . Anyway thanks much !

Like I say in the vid, find out when your local swarms start. Have the traps out a few weeks prior to that. Good luck !

Yes. That's exactly what these do. They can be removed. They have a few 3/16" holes drilled in them for minimal ventilation while in...I take them out when I catch a swarm.

@@AvocaSingleTrack I have seen some videos where they put 2 1.5 in holes with no plugs. I think that would only work in the summer and in the south.

Glad it was helpful!

Preamp Tube Thanks much. Good luck !

where do you get that lemon grass oil ?

Preamp Tube Amazon. Check them out

Consider last year win because you got some experience and learned some things. You'll do better this spring. Think of it as a light hint of fragrance on someone is very attractive whereas someone drowned in it is a turn off. Good luck this year !

Thanks for the kind words ! Good luck this season ! also check out sharaskin , mike palmer, jason chrisman and UOG honeybee research . They're on youtube, very good info from them.

I mention D Coates Nuc as a basis for the design, but you add 5 to 7 inches to the depth, making it approx 33L..find a D Coates plan that you like and just make it taller. There are D Coates Nuc plan that have no dado cuts. Thanks Sir !

I've caught swarms in a regular 5-frame nuc. Checkerboard frames, 1 frame of old brood comb.

Mach , did you have any luck yet ?

Steve's Mixed Bag yep. Pulling a swarm a week from my neighborhood. Not deploying all traps. Wife gets worried when I have more than a dozen hives at home

Awesome ! I've got about 25 set out this week. Congrats on all the catches !

You have to consider what your traps are competing against. Out here, i'm competing against the real thing, Large tree cavities in forests with tall trees. I'm in rural suburbia. Woods behind me, the river...I can see the mountains out my back window. Where you are, the bees may have less options, so your trap may be the best option for bees. In a city, you might also be catching swarms out of other beekeepers hives. At least you are able to get some and yep they are alotta fun for sure !

jorgedenton agree

2 more good ideas. Thanks for adding the comment. Much appreciated !

You're welcome. I hope to get a basic editing program soon. I could have probably cut this down to 14-20mins ...sorry it's so long. Good luck everyone !

Glad you enjoyed it. Hope it helps !

Thank you Sir. Hope it helps you catch swarms ! RU-vid is tough, I just like to put out info to help but people want more refined, more produced videos with lighting, editing. I just don't have enough time and if I make quick videos i get hate comments ...lol . i'e , the music in the background was very low but came out loud in this vid. I got so many hate comments about the music ...lol anyway, thanks and good luck !

Congrats !

Thanks, glad to help.

I would put the foundation frames in the front , rear and middle positions (1, 3, 5)...and the foundationless "open" frames in position 2 and 4 . This way they don't start to cross comb, the foundation frames act as a guide, keeping them in line. If the foundationless "open" frames were in the outside positions (1 and 5) I think they could cross comb to the box . Good luck Sir !

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks. Hope it helps, and good luck with swarms this year !

Harold Thanks !

Thank you sir. Although i dont have time to make really nice video productions, i just wanted to get the information out there. I know it took me quite a bit of reading, watching, trail and error.

No prob. Hope it helps, and good luck this season !

me too. i'm not a professional youtuber. Barely have time just film these myself, trying to share information.

It's my buddy Teddy Young, Teddy Young and the Aces . I recorded the tracks here at my home studio.

Scranton/Wilkes Barre area. If you're just getting into bee keeping, be sure to check out UoG Honeybee research center video's, they are out of Guelph, Ontario and have very good introductory video's . Also watch Mike Palmer's "The Sustainable Apiary" ...it will seem too complicated at first but everything he says just works...and he keeps bees in our climate. Good luck !

I’m in Monroe County. Thanks for the info!!!

I'm in Monroe County every week...near ESU

It's all a compromise. They're heavy, I don't Wana spend too much time at each location. I can take these down with no ladder. But yeah, 15' is definitely better !

William McNett I use it for out feed from the table saw. Works great.

If you're using just foundation, try to get some burr comb from a bee keeper. Rub that onto your foundation frames ...and also rub it inside the box. In most of north america this is not the best time of year for swarms. Good luck

I bring swarms back and hive them in the evening, usually into a nuc but sometimes a 10 frame deep. I put some pollen patty on top the frames and give a comb frame, a honey frame and a little 1:1, (give some sugar if no honey frame avail). I close it up, I shim the telescoping cover off the box with 3/32 welding rod pieces (all for ventilation) . Then I put some small wood cubes on top of the telescoping cover, then a piece of scrap plywood resting on the wood cubes. This shades them and prevents overheating. I shove screen into the front entrance... Then i leave them in for 2 nights: the night i hived them, the next day and night...the next morning i open it up. It's about 36 hrs. Never had one leave with this method. Some people put branches in front of the entrance. The method I use always works, so it's what I do. If you don't ventilate it well, you could overheat them and kill your swarm. I do this for distant swarms and some i've caught right here. Anything else, feel free to ask. Good luck !

You need to be checking your traps ever week to 10 days . Leaving the extra space will make the box more desireable but ...if you let a swarm go for too long then yes, they will draw the frames right to the bottom once they've filled the frames in the top. The alternative is don't leave any extra space below, you'll basically have a 5 frame nuc swarm trap of smaller volume which is less desireable. I've had best success with 5-8 inches dead space below and alternating the frames, Foundation frame front, back and center and the remaining two are foundationless with just string zig zag . This works

I use either this finish nailer amzn.to/2pLBbyr or this brad nailer amzn.to/2MhAtRf I like these because they leave a nail hole which i can go over with painters caulk prior to painting. Then I have very few ways for water to get in. I do use alot of staples for other things, like telescoping covers, places where the exposed head of the staple is not a problem. One of my other video's I show the exact models of finish nailgun, brad nailer and staplers I use. I also mention the glue in a few videos. Thanks for watching and good luck !

comb frames would decrease apparent volume. Foundationless "empty" frames give more apparent volume. Using a comb frame is a good thing if you have it. If you watch thru the video I show how I rub old comb all over the foundation, frames and inside the box. It certainly helps.

Jerry deGroot flat grey background, then I traced branches and leaves from internet photocopies on to some thick poster paper. Then I use that as a stencil...move it around and spray...same stencil used at different angles and or overlapped

Jerry deGroot agree

Jerry deGroot agree

Brad R Starter strips definitely work. I've found that 2 is enough, and the other 3 with foundation keeps the swarm from cross combing in the box

I put a link in the description. I use Mann Lake wood frames with plastic foundation. I pop out the plastic for the ones I add a wood strip to make foundationless.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_R0EnSI8IC8.html

lag screw, it can be removed when done

I got one swarm around July 3 and it built up 2 ten frame deeps and I got about 7 frames surplus honey in a super , from Sept/Oct Knotweed . I hive the swarms into a Nuc and top feed Jugs + pollen patties . They get a mix that I make, PH adjusted syrup and trace elements added . Anything after 1st week of July is pushing it. Plus the swarms are not as frequent past the end of June so it's not worth having all the traps out. I re bait the hole mainly, about every 14 days , like I show in the video. Maybe just a little sliver of LGO on a twig like once a every 3 weeks . Too much is a repellant.

Thank you for posting the video. This is great info. Would be interested in seeing a video of your special syrup sometime.

Maybe when I have time. It involves a PH meter , a small electronic scale, 1 ml syringe and a few ingredients. About 30 bucks for everything and you have enough for several years for 10 hives or less.

Printed leaf and branches off google, cut them out then traced that onto a pizza box. Cut out the outline with a razor. Randomly place on the box and spray. Move the pizza box around to make it look good.

I build standard telescoping covers just like commercially available ones. Aluminum tops... I have another video on here about bending them... Although I show how to bend and make them, I must admit it's a really crappy video...lol

It should work anywhere where there are honeybees. Find out when your swarm season starts...scouts are usually flying around a few weeks prior to that, so have traps out. Good luck !

Hi... I Think your swarm box is great and I do have bees in my yard every year, that's why I was watching your video. But I was being funny about it catching the buzzing idiots of the swamp in Washington DC. I kind of thought everyone would catch the sarcastic joke.

haha guess I was a little slow...i didn't catch the joke . Need more than a swarm box to fix that "S"-hole

Yes. They like fresh cut wood. Just don't use Pressure Treated wood...ie Green wood used for decks and exterior . Good luck in the spring !

Not full sun all day, just want to be facing clear toward the setting sun. On a tree you'd be in overhead shade till around 2-3pm depending on how wide the tree canopy is.

non treated. I have used PT for the sides of telescoping covers. This part doesn't face toward bees. Painted with oil base enamel. All nails, cracks, gaps filled with putty

Copy ty

Yeah i know. I turned it down too but the phone picks it up LOUD...lol . I really don't plan these things. I kinda just start filming when I think i'm doing something can help people out. Thanks for the constructive criticism. It's refreshing in contrast to some vile comments we get on occasion. Hope it was still able to help you !

I actually didn't mind the music. Good video, very informative. Thanks.