Whoa. Feel like I stepped into a whole new world of possibilities with my new home construction. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your work/art.
Probably worth mentioning for other people watching this - the "magic trowel" or "squeegee" shouldn't be used to apply the product - you're making the job more difficult for yourself by doing this and you'll get a faster and more homogenous application with a stainless steel trowel. The "magic trowel" is designed for use after application - to smooth out the trowel lines.
The only caveat to this should be to highlight that the lime wall is no longer vapour permeable, so depending on the location it is uses will not allow moisture to escape in the same way as a lime plastered room would.
Yeah this is absolutely critical. Some want their walls etc to "breathe". You are removing this capacity entirely with this process for those curious, just fyi.
@@joeldickerson1104it’s not just about what people want. It is indeed critical, especially in older homes. These people will not only be battling mold and nasties beyond this plaster and waterproofed surface, but also deal with crumbling plaster down the road, as moisture builds from within and has at best only one way to go, the exterior, which is also typically coated to all hell with latex or whatever have you.
mind blown This is not a Tadelakt alternative. Tadelakt is a beautiful natural plaster. Soap and wax are used to make properly applied Tadelakt waterproof, while still allowing it to breath. One of the wondrous and beautiful aspects of Tadelakt is its breathability, its air cleaning properties and it the fact that it is completely natural and free from any chemicals. This plastic layer on top is suffocating your home. Also (non-hydraulic) lime cures very slowly through the presence of CO2 in the air, and happens slowly, getting stronger by the months and years. An alternative for beautiful plants and flowers in your house: plastic ones, so much easier. An alternative for this beautiful life, the Metaverse! I do much appreciate your willingness to experiment, it's cool you think outside of the box. and the video was made beautifully, so good in fact that i still watched the whole video and kind of enjoyed it..
Using a steel trowel will give you a more textured look like the lime wash does. The magic trowel seems to give a more flat/matte look. To each there own, but in your case, I believe a steel trowel will save you some time as well as help you get better with it to avoid the lines it creates, which is all depends on your technique. Best of luck.
looks like I made the same comment above. Except I added that before the wall dries, to burnish and press down the plaster gives that texture he is looking for. Also you can sand the edges of the trowel so they are smooth.
@@maverick85 I ended up tiling 😄 which I also had never done before and was later told by the contractor that I did a better job than his guys, so I’m flattered. But I still intend to try your technique, starting on a smaller scale. Thank you for checking in! ❤️
Are you sure you were correct, putting poly over lime plaster , lime has to breathe , the poly would seal seal the plaster and stop the plaster breathing ? Just curious , nice video.
Beautiful! Could you use this technique for counter tops? Looking for a way to refresh older laminate countertops/metal sink, please explain (or dedicate a separate video) how you did your countertop and sink!
I know they make new product for lime plaster for wet areas but I do not support putting lime plaster in a direct wet area. I also feel that utilizing masonry sealer of that type is not the proper thing to do. It's apples and oranges and if it's holding up it's because you're getting lucky not to be negative. I could see using a wax finish
If u sand cementitious materials indoors; use a P100 or N95 Respirator, not mask. We need people like you to stick around a ling time; thanks for sharing what you do!
putting polyurethane over everything is pretty wild. Regulatory concerns: Many food safety regulations discourage or prohibit the use of polyurethane coatings on surfaces that directly contact food. Alternatives for food areas: Food-grade epoxy resins Mineral oil for wood surfaces Beeswax-based sealants Ceramic
Loving these videos! I found Tadelakt on google a while back and want to apply it to a vanity. Did you custom build your vanity and Cabinets/shelving? And if so any videos if the building? Cheers!
Hi. Thanks for sharing about your project! Doesn't polyurethane nullify or even destroy the breathability of the plaster? Is the product it food grade?
I am sick at home for the last 3 years. My home is braking apart, I would love to learn how to plaster and maybe renovate a wall here and there with the little energy I have... I wonder how can I learn or receive classes to start! Thanks 😊
Thank you for these amazing and informative videos. I love your style, I’m soooo glad I found you! I noticed in your other bathroom video that you prepared the walls, mayI ask if there is any special prep that needs to be done to walls and bench top/ sink please and can this method you used in the kitchen be used in a shower 🙏 New sub from Australia 🇦🇺
Hey Kylie :) You need to do a waterproofing membrane of some sort over the wood or substrate before you apply the plaster. You may want to consider Microcement for the shower.
Could you have used the microcement to do this -if you mixed the microcement with less water for a thicker substance...? Thinking I want to try this. Also please share a video showing how you did the sink and counter!!
Good! I think the polyurethane really did the job. I will say, it's my office, so it doesn't get the daily use of a normal kitchen. But its shown no signs of wear.
@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject Thank you for your response, also, could you just add polyurethane sealant directly to lime wash without applying lime plaster to the wall beforehand, would it still give you the same look and waterproof effect?
@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject Are you saying you'll complete the Tadelakt process and then add the poly on top, or are you replacing some of the tadelakt process with the poly (like the soap and wax steps)?
I appreciate your videos. They've definitely helped me with some of the projects I've been working on. Whats was the name/ brand of polyurethane you used?
@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject Thanks for responding so quickly :) Do you think that microcement product you used in another video would work for a shower floor if it's sealed with that polyurethane?
@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject Hey MtWWP. You haven't posted in a while. You should do some update videos showing how your tadelakt and microcement floors have held up. I ended up doing two showers using limestrong tadelakt plaster and sealing them with the dk400wb. It's been about two years and they're still holding up well. In one of the showers I did the walls in the limestrong plaster and on the floor I used microtek as a base coat and another microcement that matched the plaster for my top coat. They turned out so well that I've been asked to do several others but I keep passing on the opportunities because I am still not sure how the stuff is going to hold up in 5-10 years.
@@englishdecorator shouldn't it be ? Why use breathable material and seal with none breathable, I see the damage every day that just Paint/sealer alone can do to material designed to breathe. Just curious
well, this looks nice, but quite honestly, just so extremely rough. too rough. i think this would look A+++ class if you'd actually take the time to go and get a proper sander and use 120 grit and then 200 or 240 grit sandpaper for your first and second coat, then go up to 420 for your third coat and fourth coat, and for your fifth coat ( make sure your coats are thin ), wet sand with 1000 grit (automotive sanding). when done, wash everything down with a spray bottle with de-calcified water and a bunch of microfiber towels, and then polish the entire wall with a car polishing machine and really make it smooth. when done polishing, get proper car paint ceramic sealant, and apply this over the surface where you have water, like the shower, shower drains and the sinks and where water splashes up, including around and behind the toilet. preferably actually the entirety of the surfaces in the bathroom, as it will greatly help in reducing any chance of mold. even though proper car ceramic (paint) sealant would not need to, you could however still opt to get your hands on rain-x from the car store, and simply apply it on the shower walls just like you'd do on the car windows, just follow instructions. also behind and around the toilet, and at splash areas of the sinks. do NOT, never EVER, put it on the floors however, unless you want to slip and fall when it gets wet.
Most plasters when applied to a drywall substrate require a plaster bonding/adhesive product. This limestrong product may be different, but USG's Diamond Veneer Plasters require it. The exception is if the "purple" drywall is used -- it has special paper on it formulated for the proper absorption (or lack of it) for plaster applications specifically. Search up Kirk Giordano's plaster videos.
you haven't explored the toxic properties of this product and sustainability of it's ingredients. Are you recommending people make a toxic counter top?
Your work is beautiful BUT sealing lime plastered walls with polyurethane is really not advised. It can no longer do its job in fact sealing lime plaster in fully is what creates a lot of the problems i see in houses i come to restore. The lime will fail in time and its strength will diminish. It will not be able to regulate humidity and carbonate properly. Covering lime with non permeable paint or sealant is pointless.
@@cortneycoutreyer9272 hey so traditionally a olive soap and water mixture would be applied by brush once it has almost dried, leather hard, you can push it with your finger a little bit. U can then take a shiny trowel and polish it. You will get a nice sheen. There is also punic wax that u can put over it too. These seal it but still give some porosity.
Next time can you promise me you'll wear better face protection when you are sanding indoors? Particulate matter will carelessly offend your half-engaged protections.
